Congress has cut federal funding for public media — a $3.4 million loss for LAist. We count on readers like you to protect our nonprofit newsroom. Become a monthly member and sustain local journalism.
This is an archival story that predates current editorial management.
This archival content was written, edited, and published prior to LAist's acquisition by its current owner, Southern California Public Radio ("SCPR"). Content, such as language choice and subject matter, in archival articles therefore may not align with SCPR's current editorial standards. To learn more about those standards and why we make this distinction, please click here.
Diablo Taco: Does L.A. Really Need Another Gourmet Taco Joint?
(Photo courtesy of Diablo Taco)
()
Diablo, the "urban taco fabricator" opened for lunch in Silver Lake yesterday, adding another gussied up taco joint to a list of what has become a growing trend in L.A.: the gourmet taco restaurant. They join the ranks of the nearby Malo, who serves gringo-fied tacos (think hard shells filled with BLT fixins or potatoes and cheddar cheese that rival the wrongness of Taco Bell's bacon gordita crunch) to the Silver Lake crowd, as well as other L.A. restaurants like Tinga, Tortilla Republic, and La Esquela who boast modern alternatives to the traditional street food fare.
But we have to wonder, living in such a salsa-saturated area, what's the point of bastardizing taco stands, turning them into gastropubs, replete with the obligatory exposed bricks, community tables, and craft beer lists?
We haven't yet visited Diablo, so we can't poke too much. Their tacos could be great. But after some digging we've found that they're owned by Sinister Culinary Group, whose website is pretty sparse save for a landing page that touts pretty much every culinary trend in the book. Seriously, these words are the only thing on the homepage:
beef vodka fat fried beer pickled onion whiskey bacon belly caramelized charcoal fire black urban truffle concrete foie iron rhubarb flour butter tomato rust industrial chef aioli market butcher gin eggs enter american potato local intense olive cream grind cheese deviled brioche music infusion classic real addictive wine passion juicy flavor kitchen wood bar
Support for LAist comes from
The thought of tossing those ingredients into a tortilla is indeed sinister for taco purists, like Bill Esparza of Street Gourmet LA.
"Everybody wants to do a taco concept, but they're missing the point," says Esparza. "You can't just stick all these new ingredients in a shitty tortilla without a thought of its construction ... Simple foods are really difficult to make great. Maybe it's possible [to have a good gourmet taco], but I haven't seen it yet."
All of this is not to say that the area couldn't use more decent dining options, but why would go up against a market that's already replete with authentic street meat? Within a few moment's drive there's Guisados, Ricky's, Mexicali, Tacos Arizas, and the list goes on.
We will of course visit the shop shortly, so for now this is just a rant on a trend we're spotting. We hope that they're delivering something delicious to the gourmet taco market, we really do. But like Esparza, our previous encounters with similar establishments have been mediocre at best.
Stay tuned for a follow up.
As Editor-in-Chief of our newsroom, I’m extremely proud of the work our top-notch journalists are doing here at LAist. We’re doing more hard-hitting watchdog journalism than ever before — powerful reporting on the economy, elections, climate and the homelessness crisis that is making a difference in your lives. At the same time, it’s never been more difficult to maintain a paywall-free, independent news source that informs, inspires, and engages everyone.
Simply put, we cannot do this essential work without your help. Federal funding for public media has been clawed back by Congress and that means LAist has lost $3.4 million in federal funding over the next two years. So we’re asking for your help. LAist has been there for you and we’re asking you to be here for us.
We rely on donations from readers like you to stay independent, which keeps our nonprofit newsroom strong and accountable to you.
No matter where you stand on the political spectrum, press freedom is at the core of keeping our nation free and fair. And as the landscape of free press changes, LAist will remain a voice you know and trust, but the amount of reader support we receive will help determine how strong of a newsroom we are going forward to cover the important news from our community.
Please take action today to support your trusted source for local news with a donation that makes sense for your budget.
Thank you for your generous support and believing in independent news.
Chip in now to fund your local journalism
(
LAist
)
Trending on LAist
-
With less to prove than LA, the city is becoming a center of impressive culinary creativity. -
Nearly 470 sections of guardrailing were stolen in the last fiscal year in L.A. and Ventura counties.
-
Monarch butterflies are on a path to extinction, but there is a way to support them — and maybe see them in your own yard — by planting milkweed.
-
With California voters facing a decision on redistricting this November, Surf City is poised to join the brewing battle over Congressional voting districts.
-
The drug dealer, the last of five defendants to plead guilty to federal charges linked to the 'Friends' actor’s death, will face a maximum sentence of 65 years in prison.
-
The weather’s been a little different lately, with humidity, isolated rain and wind gusts throughout much of Southern California. What’s causing the late-summer bout of gray?
Best of LAist