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Food

Starting Off at Square One

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We wouldn't tell our Saturday morning brunch guest where we were taking them, despite their prodding or relentless guessing. Our car's GPS navigation system took us across the south-east end of Hollywood, finally leaving us to search for parking alongside the imposing edifices of the Scientology center near the intersection of Fountain and Edgemont. The destination: Square One, for what we hoped would be a breakfast as tasty as it was rumored to be.

Although it was prime breakfasting time, there were a few empty tables in the bright, noisy, cheery space. The room is sparsely decorated and combines bold egg yolk yellow painted walls with streaming sunlight from the big glass window storefront to an uplifting effect. The menus sat waiting at the tables...and after some time, so did we.

It's always a shame for us to have a dining experience where the place in question drops one of the balls of the holy trinity of restaurants: great food, great service, great space. With a philosophy of elevating breakfast and lunch to the quality of three-star dinner dining, and of using the freshest and local ingredients, head Chef Robert Lee has indeed created an affordable option with an abundance of excellent menu choices. But when the "great service" ball gets dropped, you get great food served...cold.