Sake Talk with L.A.'s Rice Wine Enthusiast, Jesse Duron

Hamasaku has traditionally been a hangout for agents and industry types, hence the tome of a menu listing rolls that have been customized for their celebrity clientele. But the dishes have gotten a bit of an overhaul as of late, in an attempt to appeal to a more educated culinary crowd. They've lauched a $45 omakase menu that veers away from mayo-laden rolls and focuses on the fresh seafood and delicate presentation. (The roll menu still exists, but it's only there if guests ask for it. You wouldn't say no to Charlize Theron, would you?)

It seems like they are heading in the right direction in terms of the food, but what really wowed us on a recent visit is the restaurants revamped sake menu. In addition to being incredibly varied in its selections, the menu actually decodes flavor profiles and styles, just like a education-focused wine bar would do.

Each sake is broken down into styles (modern, traditional, raw, unfiltered, clean, sparkling, and aromatic), with added flavor profile descriptions for each. Sakes are served in different types of glasses depending on those elements, rather that the simple one-size-fits all tokkuri.

At the head of all of this is Jesse Duron, Hamasaku's general manager and resident sake guru. Though he doesn't currently have any special certification as such, he is a wealth of knowledge, having traveled to Japan extensively throughout his career working in restaurants focusing on the country's cuisine. We took a few moments to talk to him about what makes a good sake, how not to sip like a newb, and what the evolution of menus like this would mean for the dreaded sake bomb.

What sparked your interest in being a sort of sake sommelier instead of going the traditional beverage route? How often do you travel to keep up to speed on the industry?

My love for Japanese food naturally sparked my interest in sake and how well it pairs with Japanese cuisine.

I haven't been back to Japan for 6 years but prior to that I went 2 times a year. Due to being in the restaurant industry it has been hard to take time off to go back to Japan. I will definitely being going back more often.

Can you explain the basics of how sake is made?

It’s simple, very similar to making beer. Its rice, water, koji mold, and yeast. The rice is steamed and Koji is added to break down the startch in the rice into sugar, then the yeast breaks down the sugar into alcohol.

What are the different grades of sake, and what does each mean?

The main sake grading system is by how much the rice is polished. There is Junmai, Ginjo and Dai Ginjo. Junmai is polished 30%, leaving 70% of the rice, Ginjo is polished 40%, and Dai Ginjo is Polished 50% or more. Then there is sub categories under this like nigori (unfiltered), Nama ( un-pasteurized ), Koshu (aged), and so on.

How should one go about tasting sake so as to avoid a "Sideways" situation?

Dont shoot sake, sip it. This is why we serve our sake in stemless wine glasses, which allows you to enjoy the nose and savor the sake.

How is the sake industry changing in Japan? Is that at all influenced by an increased interest from Western restaurants like Hamasaku?

Yes, the sake industry is heavily driven by sales outside of Japan. Sake was not popular in Japan until a few years ago. Everyone was drinking shochu and wine, but sake is making a comeback.

How do you go about curating a sake program for a restaurant? Are the different sakes meant to be paired with dishes, just like wine?

I wanted to make a very unique sake list that would stand out from other restaurants. The response from our customers have been great. I have to admit I did have help from Kris Elliot from Youngs Market. He is very informative and has taught me a lot about sake. He made sake at a sake brewery. And yes, sake can be paired like wine, but it just goes so well with sushi.

What would be a good indicator to someone that a restaurant has a strong sake list?

That's a really tough question. As with most things in service, it starts with the front of the house. I would say how knowledgable the server is about sake is a good indicator.

What are some of the rare bottles you are proud of at the restaurant?

Our Flying Pegasus is our rarest bottle. They only make 300 bottles a year and only a handful are allocated to the states. The only other place to carry it is Urasawa.

Are the days of the sake bomb long gone? Do you think Angelenos have an elevated taste for real, small batch products like what you're featuring in the menu?

There will always be a place for sake bombs, just as there will be people who order long island ice teas, just not at Hamasaku. We have 3 different flights of sake to help in the process. But anyone can enjoy sake, really. It's about educating the guest and guiding them through the experience.