WalkGood LA founder Etienne Maurice leads his first yoga class in the WalkGood Yard on Feb. 20, 2024 in Arlington Heights.
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Aaricka Washington
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LAist
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Topline:
WalkGood LA brings yoga, wellness to a neighborhood that's been underserved by services like this.
Why it matters: Etienne Maurice’s main goal has always been to offer a safe space for Black people, and other people of color in L.A., who are impacted by racism. He sees The WalkGood Yard as a natural extension of this, as yoga is good for the heart, body and soul.
The COVID-19 pandemic and cases of police brutality only exacerbated the health issues that have existed in Black communities nationwide, like higher rates of obesity and diabetes, according to a recent report from L.A. County that highlights the impact of systemic racism on Black residents.
The backstory: WalkGood LA, a nonprofit wellness organization, all began when founder and filmmaker Etienne Maurice and his cousin, Marley Ralph, a yoga instructor, organized a march and community yoga class at L.A. Memorial Park that June as a peaceful protest.
Soon after, WalkGood LA was born and Maurice started hosting wellness events all over the city, encouraging residents of color to get outside and into their bodies. Nowadays, at the yoga events held at Kenneth Hahn Park, a couple hundred people still regularly show up. The Yard is WalkGood's first brick and mortar space offering classes.
Eira Schwyzer decided to brave the rainy weather Tuesday to go to a yoga class in the Arlington Heights neighborhood of Los Angeles. It’s a new studio in an area that hasn’t had a lot of options for practicing a downward-facing dog pose, or really any kind of yoga.
The WalkGood Yard opened on Sunday, the first physical space of the Black-owned nonprofit wellness organization WalkGood LA.
For Schwyzer, she sees it as a necessity in her working-class, predominantly Latino, Black and Asian neighborhood.
“I believe that this is what we need to be investing in,” Schwyzer says. “Now I feel like I can go to a place that is for people like me, Afro-Indigenous Latino people, who need something to be able to go to, connect with our community and focus on our mental and physical well-being. This is a place where we can elevate our community and inspire people to do the same.”
A wellness movement born from protest
Schwyzer has been attending WalkGood LA events since the organization formed in 2020 in response to the murders of Ahmaud Arbery, George Floyd Jr. and Breonna Taylor — two of those deaths at the hands of police.
It all began when founder and filmmaker Etienne Maurice, his sister Ivy Maurice and his cousin, Marley Ralph, a yoga instructor, organized a march and community yoga class at L.A. Memorial Park that June as a peaceful protest. Soon after, WalkGood LA was born and Maurice started hosting wellness events all over the city, encouraging residents of color to get outside and into their bodies.
In the beginning, Maurice says roughly 450 people showed up at the park every Sunday. Nowadays, at yoga events held at Kenneth Hahn Park, a couple hundred people still regularly show up.
Listen
24:48
How I Got Started: Community Builder Etienne Maurice
Maurice’s main goal has always been to offer a safe space for Black people, and other people of color in L.A. who are impacted by racism. He sees The WalkGood Yard as a natural extension of this, as he sees yoga as good for the heart, body and soul.
The COVID-19 pandemic and cases of police brutality have exacerbated the health issues that have existed in Black communities nationwide, like higher rates of obesity and diabetes, according to a report from L.A. County that highlights the impact of systemic racism on Black residents. Black people are also 20% more likely to experience serious mental health issues than the general population, according to the American Psychiatric Association.
And practicing yoga on a regular basis has multiple benefits, including reducing levels of stress, improving strength and relieving pain.
Neighborhood history
The new studio is on West Pico Boulevard, a mile away from where Maurice grew up in his mom’s house, and not too far away from L.A. Memorial Park where WalkGood LA started. But there’s even more intention behind the location of this space. It’s the rich history surrounding the neighborhood.
Right across the street is Jewel Thais-Williams’ Catch One, one of the first Black disco night clubs in the nation, and one of the most prominent gay bars in L.A.
And the studio space is just about a mile north from the West Adams neighborhood, a once prominent area for upper-middle-class Black Angelenos.
In the 1960s, dozens of Black-owned homes in the wealthy Sugar Hill neighborhood were bulldozed with the construction of the I-10 Santa Monica Freeway. That community was split in half, forcing many families to move south of the freeway throughout areas like Baldwin Hills and other locations south of the 10 Freeway.
For Maurice, bringing a Black-owned space back to the area is like reclaiming history.
“Here we are … years later, a Black-owned organization, a Black-owned building … trying to bring that same spirit of entrepreneurship, but with healing attached to it,” Maurice says. “I think this is going to be the start of something that I've really envisioned for the city of L.A. to make some real change in this community.”
When conceiving the space, Maurice says he was inspired by Arlington Heights’ Underground Museum — which was one of the nation’s leading spaces for Black art, and a community space for healing practitioners, creatives and activists until it closed unexpectedly in March 2022. Maurice recalls the different exhibits, community gatherings and movie screenings the museum held for people who lived in the area. He wants to bring the essence of community building, art and entrepreneurship back to Mid-City, and add yoga to the mix.
“I think that's the whole purpose of bringing people together from all walks of life,” Maurice says. “So that we can create a more healing community in Los Angeles because right now it's looking like Gotham City.”
Stepping inside the Yard
If visitors are not careful, they could miss the space. It’s sandwiched in between several other businesses down a busy stretch of Pico Boulevard. There’s a vivid, yet simple sign with white lettering that says "The WalkGood Yard."
When visitors first walk into the new studio, they are greeted by the sounds of R&B classics like Mint Condition’s "If You Love Me," and a mural of Maurice’s maternal grandparents, to whom he’s dedicated the space.
WalkGood LA founder Etienne Maurice stands in front of a mural of his grandparents, to whom he's dedicated the space.
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Aaricka Washington
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LAist
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Maurice’s family is from Jamaica, so the vibrant space is full of pride in those roots — red, gold and green colors fill the rooms.
“It reminds me of home, and for me home is Los Angeles by the way of Jamaica,” Maurice says.
Photos of family and family friends — like Maurice’s mom, actress Sheryl Lee Ralph; civil rights activist Rosa Parks, R&B singer Luther Vandross — adorn the WalkGood heritage wall.
Photos of Black leaders, family and friends — like Maurice’s mom, actress Sheryl Lee Ralph; civil rights activist Rosa Parks, R&B singer Luther Vandross — adorn the WalkGood heritage wall.
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Aaricka Washington
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LAist
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The main studio is spacious with a lot of windows and natural light, wood floors and exposed brick walls. There’s also a meditation room called the Zen Den that is full of pillows and cushions on a soft, plush carpet. It will be used for sound bowls, and just chilling.
The Zen Den meditation room has pillows and cushions on a soft, plush carpet. It will be used for sound bowls, and just chilling.
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Aaricka Washington
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LAist
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The first yoga class
On Tuesday, a few days after its grand opening, members grabbed their yoga mats, while Maurice changed the music playlist to a more calm, classical one. “Good Flow,” a traditional, calm yoga class, was the first paid members-only session in the new studio space.
“You are joining me for our first good flow here at the WalkGood Yard,” Maurice says. “We got a new sound system installed. Pretty much everything is how we want it to be on this gloomy, bright rainy day.”
He then gets right into one-hour long class with a "savasana" pose where everyone is on their backs with the soles of their feet together with one hand on their diaphragm, and the other on their heart.
WalkGood LA founder Etienne Maurice facilitates a "Good Flow" yoga session for the new WalkGood Yard members on Tuesday, Feb. 20, 2024 in the Arlington Heights neighborhood.
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Aaricka Washington
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LAist
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Classes info
To attend regular classes at the Yard, Maurice is asking that people become a member. There are three membership tiers ranging from five classes a month for $99 to unlimited classes for $225 a month (and a lot more perks). Drop-in classes are $25 each, which is about the average price for a yoga class in L.A.
WalkGood LA will still host free outdoor events like group hikes and run clubs monthly. BreatheGood, a community-donation-based yoga class, will continue to be held at Kenneth Hahn Park on the first Sundays of every month.
Maurice says that they will offer YouGood? A Black Men’s Healing Circle for free at the Yard.
Long Beach resident Jasmine Jones says she's happy to join. Not only has Jones been searching for a good spot to do yoga, she’s also been looking for community and a way to make new friends. She says Maurice’s Good Flow class made her feel welcomed and accepted, unlike how she’s felt in some classes that were in predominantly white spaces.
“It was relaxing and soothing,” Jones says. “I like being in a Black space. I notice when I'm in other yoga spaces, the energy feels different. It's just the vibe of being around your own people. It feels like home. It feels grounded.”
Aaron Schrank
has been on the ground, reporting on homelessness and other issues in L.A. for more than a decade.
Published December 4, 2025 6:48 PM
A worker with the Los Angeles Homeless Services Authority (LAHSA) helps a person experiencing homelessness move a cart with their possessions.
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Patrick T. Fallon
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Getty Images
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Topline:
A group of employees at the Los Angeles region’s homelessness authority says hundreds of frontline workers will face layoffs as L.A. County transitions funding away from the agency.
The staffers from the L.A. Homeless Services Authority, or LAHSA, wrote an open letter to the county Board of Supervisors this week, demanding that no county-funded workers be displaced.
The demands: The LAHSA Workers Coalition said in the open letter that the county has a legal obligation to protect LAHSA workers as it transitions to a new county-run homelessness agency.
They’re demanding that existing LAHSA employees be transferred directly to the new department, instead of having to reapply. They’re also asking the board for a full public disclosure of staffing cuts related to the transition.
Read on ... for details from the coalition's letter.
A group of employees at the Los Angeles region’s homelessness authority says hundreds of frontline workers will face layoffs as L.A. County transitions funding away from the agency.
Staffers from the L.A. Homeless Services Authority, or LAHSA, wrote an open letter to the county Board of Supervisors this week, demanding that no county-funded workers be displaced.
Its members say the transition would hit workers and unhoused clients harder than county officials have acknowledged.
“ A lot of the workers are in this because we care and we want to help our fellow neighbors and don't want to see see all kinds of people homeless on the street,” Jacqueline Beltran, a LAHSA employee who signed the letter, told LAist.
County officials said they are committed to “clearing pathways to employment” for county-funded LAHSA workers within the new Department of Homeless Services and Housing.
“We are continuing to explore all available options,” new department director Sarah Mahin said in a statement.
Mahin said funding and staffing will be finalized in the FY 2026-2027 Measure A spending plan for the fiscal year that ends in 2027. The county released a draft of that plan last month.
In April, the county Board of Supervisors voted to pull more than $300 million from LAHSA and create a new county homelessness department to administer the funds.
That motion also directed county agencies to consult with Service Employees International Union 721, which represents county-funded LAHSA employees, to try to keep them employed — or prioritize them for transition into the new department’s workforce.
But the LAHSA Workers Coalition said that’s not happening.
The group demands in its letter that the county halt all staffing reductions at LAHSA and argues the county has a legal obligation to protect the workers. The group is made up of employees represented by SEIU 721, but the union’s leaders did not cosign the letter.
The union did not immediately respond to LAist’s questions about it Thursday.
In February, an L.A. County report said the agency had 900 staff positions and nearly 200 vacancies. More than half of the positions were funded by L.A. County, according to the report.
Last year, county voters approved the Measure A sales tax to fund homeless services and affordable housing. The ordinance says that contracts funded with Measure A revenue "must not result in displacement of public employees.”
In the letter, the coalition argues the county is out of compliance with that requirement and is urging the board to discuss the matter at its next meeting.
Mahin said Measure A does not prevent the county from restructuring programs but instead “protects public employees from being displaced by outside service providers funded through Measure A.”
The county is facing a deficit of more than $300 million in funding for homeless services, Mahin said, adding that it must make “difficult but necessary decisions about how we invest our limited resources.”
The workers coalition is demanding that existing LAHSA employees be transferred directly to the new department, instead of having to reapply.
They’re also asking the board for a full public disclosure of staffing cuts related to the transition.
In addition to the Board of Supervisors, the coalition sent the letter to several other county and state oversight entities, including the county office of the inspector general, the civil grand jury, the state auditor and the attorney general.
Brandon Killman
is a social media producer who turns the newsroom's reporting into engaging social media stories and multimedia content.
Published December 4, 2025 5:06 PM
A bottle of Angelica wine made from grapes harvested at Mission San Gabriel's 250-year-old grapevine.
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Brandon Killman
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LAist
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Topline:
A 250-year-old grapevine at Mission San Gabriel is leaning into L.A.'s oft-forgotten identity as California's original wine capital, producing Angelica — the city's oldest wine — for sale to the public thanks to local winemakers and volunteers.
Wine description: Angelica, once made by Franciscan friars at Mission San Gabriel, is a fortified wine, made with fresh grape juice and brandy. It’s sweet, viscous and strong — a glass (or two) is all you need after a holiday meal. Winemakers from Angeleno Wine company have made a small batch, following an old recipe found at the Mission. Each bottle costs $75.
The backstory: The Mother Vine at Mission San Gabriel, planted around 1775, supplied cuttings that built the state's wine industry. By the mid 20th century, L.A.’s winemaking industry had virtually disappeared. Recently, a group of local winemakers have been reviving the tradition. When they were called to the Mission to help cultivate the vine, they realized they’d stumbled upon grapes that could be traced back to its establishment.
When Terri Huerta called local winemakers about a problem with a meandering vine at Mission San Gabriel in the city of San Gabriel, she thought she'd get gardening help. Instead, she sparked a revival of L.A.'s oldest wine.
Mission San Gabriel's 250-year-old grapevine, one of the oldest living vines in California, continues to produce grapes for the Angelica wine revival.
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Brandon Killman
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The vine in question isn't your typical grapevine. It's a 250-year-old beast with a trunk so massive two people can't wrap their arms around it. Because it served as the source for cuttings that spread throughout California's early vineyards, it’s now known as the Mother Vine.
For centuries, it just sprawled across the mission courtyard like some ancient, living pergola that refuses to quit, with no one taking any notice of the grapes flourishing each season.
But now, thanks to a group of determined local winemakers, that fruit is being transformed into Angelica, a sweet wine fortified with brandy that Franciscan missionaries made there in the 1700s — making it the city’s oldest wine.
A limited edition batch was launched Nov. 28 by the Angeleno Wine Company. There are fewer than 200 bottles for sale, and at $75, it's not cheap. But break that down by the vine's age, and you're paying 30 cents per year of history.
How it started
The collaboration began in 2020 when Huerta, director of mission development at Mission San Gabriel, reached out to the Los Angeles Vintners Association looking for help to manage the grapevine.
The association — a partnership among three L.A. wineries: Angeleno Wine Company, Byron Blatty Wines and Cavalletti Vineyards — sent winemakers Mark Blatty, Patrick Kelly, Jasper Dickson and Amy Luftig to assess the situation. They found something bigger than a courtyard cleanup project. They found grapes. A lot of them.
"The vine was full of fruit, and I told them it was just a nuisance every year," Huerta recalls. "They asked, 'What are you going to do with all this fruit?' and I said, 'I really don't know.'”
That's when the group offered to help take it off Huerta’s hands.
Grapes from Mission San Gabriel's 250-year-old grapevine used in the Angelica wine revival.
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Courtesy of John Pryor
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Wine history
Although the Napa Valley now reigns supreme as the region’s wine industry, L.A. once was the center for the entire state. Mission San Gabriel’s vine was planted by Franciscan friars after the establishment of the mission in 1775 to make sacramental wine to be used during mass. DNA analysis has since revealed its forebears: It's a hybrid of Spanish Listán Prieto grapes and native California Vitis girdiana.
This vine’s cuttings helped launch the many vineyards that began to crop up around the newly founded grape fields, which became numerous. By 1850, L.A. boasted over 100 vineyards. If you look carefully, even today, the city of L.A.’s seal has a bunch of grapes hanging at the top.
The official seal of the city of Los Angeles.
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Courtesy city of Los Angeles
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The wines were popular with fortune seekers headed north to the Gold Rush. The industry flourished until 1883, when an outbreak of Pierce's Disease destroyed thousands of acres of vines across SoCal. Urban sprawl replaced vineyards with housing through the mid-20th century.
Today, almost nothing remains of L.A. 's once-dominant wine industry — with the exception of the Mother Vine and a handful of its descendants scattered across the city.
Across from Union Station a direct descendant is still growing over tourist and vendor heads. It’s a 200-year-old vine at Olvera Street's Avila Adobe, the oldest standing residence in the city of L.A.
Storing up the grapes
The winemakers started picking the fruit at the Mission in 2020. But it wasn’t enough to make a substantial batch of wine, so the grapes were stored. For the past five years, the winemakers, joined with volunteers, have harvested the fruit each season, carefully packing it away.
In the meantime, they began to dig into mission records for mentions of grapes and winemaking. One day they came across a document from the 1800s, which outlined a recipe for Angelica, a fortified wine made from grape juice and brandy.
"Angelica is said to be made by mixing one gallon of grape brandy with three of grape juice, fresh from the press," it said. "It is a thick, sweet and strong drink, yet of very delicate flavor."
The fortification wasn't just about taste — it was a necessity. In an era before refrigeration, adding brandy preserved the wine, allowing it to survive California's heat and long journeys between missions.
Two of the winemakers, Dickson and Luftig, were especially interested. They’d been making wine from grapes grown locally in the SoCal region since 2018 at their winery Angeleno Wine Company, which produces everything on-site near Chinatown.
They became intrigued by the idea of recreating Angelica. Following the historical recipe, they pressed fresh Mission grapes and fortified the juice with brandy before fermentation. Then they used the solera system — a traditional Spanish method that blends wines across multiple vintages — aging the wine in oak barrels for years.
Initially, they made limited batches solely for the company’s wine club members, which quickly sold out.
This year’s Angelica is the group’s third batch but the first to go on sale to the public. It includes grapes that have been harvested from 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023 and 2024.
The wine pours a pale cherry color and has a syrup-like consistency. The brandy comes through right away, caramel and warm spices with refreshing acidity cutting through the sweetness. It's thick, decadent and undeniably strong — a small glass (or two) is all that’s needed after a warm holiday meal.
Angelica wine
Visit Mission San Gabriel to see the Mother Vine's massive trunk and sprawling pergola at 428 S. Mission Drive, San Gabriel.
Angelica wine is available through Angeleno Wine Company, 1646 N. Spring St., Unit C, Los Angeles.
The harvest
Harvesting the grapes doesn't look like the romantic wine country fantasy you see in magazines.
Instead of long rows of vines with grapes easily accessed, harvesters have to pick the fruit from below the canopy.
"Everyone has to bring ladders because we're picking like this," Dickson says, gesturing upward in the Mission’s courtyard. "We're literally placing ladders on ancient monks' tombstones to reach the fruit above the graves."
This year the harvest happened in October.
Volunteers harvest grapes at Mission San Gabriel for the Angelica wine revival project.
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Amy Luftig
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Angeleno Wine Co.
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John Pryor, a volunteer, has done multiple harvests. He describes it plainly: "You're not in a vineyard. You're in a garden at a Catholic church. The vines are trellised 12 feet high and go on for a hundred yards."
For his daughter, 27 year-old Meg Pryor, seeing the massive trunk drove home what "old" actually means.
"Whenever we're there, I'm thinking, 'People were doing this a century ago, two centuries ago,'" she said.
John and Meg Pryor help harvest grapes from Mission San Gabriel's historic grapevine for the Angelica wine revival project.
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Courtesy of John Pryor
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Understanding who most of those workers were centuries ago means confronting some difficult issues. Huerta of Mission San Gabriel acknowledges the mission system relied on Indigenous labor, and the vine's hybrid nature suggests native plant knowledge may have contributed to its development.
But she doesn't shy away from the complexity.
"You can't tell Mission history without including all the parts," she says. "You can't tell one story without telling another story. Winemaking has always been a part of L.A. history. The grapes were brought by the Franciscans. They didn't just start here in California. They started in Mexico, so its complexity makes it interesting, but it also makes it controversial."
Going forward, Angeleno Wine Company plans to release a limited batch of Angelica as a seasonal offering each year, as long as the Mother Vine continues to produce fruit.
The Supreme Court has cleared the way for Texas to use a new congressional map that could help Republicans win five more U.S. House seats in the 2026 midterm election. A lower court found the map likely is unconstitutional.
Why it matters: The decision released Thursday boosts the GOP's chances of preserving its slim majority in the House of Representatives amid an unprecedented gerrymandering fight launched by President Donald Trump, who has been pushing Texas and other GOP-led states to redraw their congressional districts to benefit Republicans. The high court's unsigned order follows Texas' emergency request for the justices to pause a three-judge panel's ruling blocking the state's recently redrawn map.
The backstory: After holding a nine-day hearing in October, that panel found challengers of the new map are likely to prove in a trial that the map violates the Constitution by discriminating against voters based on race. For the next year's midterms, the panel ordered Texas to keep using the congressional districts the state's GOP-controlled legislature drew in 2021. In November, after the panel blocked the new map, Justice Samuel Alito allowed Texas to temporarily reinstate it while the Supreme Court reviewed the state's emergency request.
The Supreme Court has cleared the way for Texas to use a new congressional map that could help Republicans win five more U.S. House seats in the 2026 midterm election.
The decision released Thursday boosts the GOP's chances of preserving its slim majority in the House of Representatives amid an unprecedented gerrymandering fight launched by President Donald Trump, who has been pushing Texas and other GOP-led states to redraw their congressional districts to benefit Republicans.
The high court's unsigned order follows Texas' emergency request for the justices to pause a three-judge panel's ruling blocking the state's recently redrawn map.
After holding a nine-day hearing in October, that panel found challengers of the new map are likely to prove in a trial that the map violates the Constitution by discriminating against voters based on race.
In its majority opinion, authored by a Trump nominee, the panel cited a letter from the Department of Justice and multiple public statements by key Republican state lawmakers that suggested their map drawer manipulated the racial demographics of voting districts to eliminate existing districts where Black and Latino voters together make up the majority. For the next year's midterms, the panel ordered Texas to keep using the congressional districts the state's GOP-controlled legislature drew in 2021.
But in Texas' filing to the Supreme Court, the state claimed the lawmakers were not motivated by race and were focused instead on drawing new districts that are more likely to elect Republicans.
In November, after the panel blocked the new map, Justice Samuel Alito allowed Texas to temporarily reinstate it while the Supreme Court reviewed the state's emergency request.
The mid-decade redistricting plan Texas Republicans passed in August sparked a counter response by Democratic leaders in California, where voters in a special election in November approved a new congressional map that could help Democrats gain five additional House seats. A court hearing for a legal challenge to that map is set for Dec. 15.
The rest of the redistricting landscape remains unsettled as well. Lawsuits are challenging new gerrymanders in places like Missouri, where there is also a contested referendum effort. And other states, including Florida, Indiana and Virginia, may also pursue new districts prior to the midterms.
Last week, a federal court ruled to allow North Carolina's midterm election to be held under a recently redrawn map that could give Republicans an additional seat.
Another wave of congressional redistricting may be coming soon depending on what — and when — the Supreme Court decides in a voting rights case about Louisiana's congressional map. After the court held a rare rehearing for that case in October, some states are watching for a potential earlier-than-usual ruling that may allow Republican-led states to draw more GOP-friendly districts in time for the 2026 midterms.
Gab Chabrán
covers what's happening in food and culture for LAist.
Published December 4, 2025 3:38 PM
At Sí! Mon in Venice, Chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas puts his spin on Panamanian tamal tradition with a rich, lamb neck version.
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Gab Chabrán
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LAist
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Topline:
Three L.A.-area chefs are reimagining tamales with high-end ingredients and global techniques, from a $27 Panamanian lamb neck version in Venice to a $21 dish with hyperlocal farm-grown ingredients in Orange County. These aren't replacements for traditional tamales — they're explorations of what happens when fine dining ambition meets this centuries-old form.
Why it matters: Tamales are deeply rooted in tradition, often tied to family recipes and holiday gatherings. These chef-driven versions respect that heritage while proving the dish can hold its own in upscale contexts beyond the Mexican versions most Angelenos know. They're expanding the conversation about what tamales can be without abandoning what makes them special.
Why now: The holiday season is tamal season in L.A., when families gather for tamaladas and local bakeries sell out daily. But this year, chefs across the region are offering versions that push beyond tradition — some available only as limited seasonal specials, others as glimpses of ambitious tasting menus to come.
Growing up in Whittier, tamales have always been part of who I am — whether from local bakeries like La Moderna, where my mother always orders the day after Thanksgiving, or our annual tamalada with family friends, where we churn out hundreds in slightly drunken assembly-line fashion.
Over the years, I've explored beyond the traditional Mexican versions: El Salvadoran styles from What's That You're Cooking in Orange County to the Chinese lo mai gai found at dim sum spots across the city. My pursuit of new tamal variations is relentless, especially this time of year.
So when I heard about a $27 lamb neck tamal in Venice, I had to know: could an elevated, chef-driven approach ever justify that price? Since a few other restaurants are also recreating the humble dish with a high-end approach, I decided to go and try them.
What I discovered was that these aren't replacements for traditional tamales — they're explorations of what happens when fine dining ambition meets this centuries-old form.
Si! Mon (Venice)
Si! Mon opened in 2023 in the former James Beach space, a collaboration between chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas and restaurateurs Louie and Netty Ryan, known for Venice-adjacent mainstays Hatchet Hall and Menotti's Coffee Stop. Si! Mon offers Carles Rojas' take on Panamanian fine dining, drawing on Panama's melting pot of Chinese, French, Spanish, African and Caribbean influences.
For the holidays, Carles Rojas is offering a $27 lamb neck tamal — a clear departure from the Mexican versions most Angelenos know. And while the price might cause some sticker shock, it’s worth considering what goes into it and how much food there is.
Wrapped in a banana leaf, the tamal uses a lighter, softer masa enriched with the lamb neck’s braising liquid. Rojas pulls the meat, tosses it with sofrito until it takes on a sauce-like consistency, then adds Indian-style quick-pickled dates for sweetness and olives for brine. Finally, the tamal is finished in Si! mon's wood-fired oven, adding subtle smokiness.
My verdict? After taking that first bite, I can tell you… it’s worth the splurge. One tamal is meant to be shared between two people, which partly explains the price point (though I had no problem finishing mine solo). I’ve had plenty of Central American tamales over the years — Salvadoran versions with their silky masa, Nicaraguan nacatamales loaded with vegetables and pork — but Carles’ take pulls out all the stops. This is a deluxe, bells-and-whistles vision: sweet, salty, and deeply savory all at once, comforting yet unlike anything I’ve tasted before.
Yes, it is a high price, but I’d say it reflects the time, technique and premium ingredients behind it.
Location: 60 N. Venice Blvd., Venice Hours: Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m., Friday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to midnight, Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m.
KOMAL (South L.A.)
A Guatemalan-style chuchito tamal from KOMAL at Mercado de Paloma in South L.A.
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Frank WonHo
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Courtesy KOMAL
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KOMAL is L.A.'s first craft molino (mill), founded by Fátima Júarez and Conrado Rivera, former employees of Michelin-rated Holbox, who opened this masa-centric counter inside South L.A.'s Mercado La Paloma. The name is Nahuatl for "comal," the traditional flat griddle used to cook tortillas.
I wanted to try the chuchito ($11), a regular menu staple at KOMAL. Júarez refers to the dish as a gift — both for the unwrapping it requires and the labor of love behind it. Each one takes more than 22 hours to make, starting with nixtamalizing heirloom corn to create the masa. (Nixtamalization, an ancient Mesoamerican process, involves soaking and cooking corn in an alkaline solution to improve its flavor, texture, and nutrition).
The result is a fluffy steamed tamal filled with tender pork and crowned with roasted pepper and tomato sauce, pickled cabbage and vegetables, and crema. The dish honors her kitchen team, most of whom are from Guatemala, and it's KOMAL's way of putting their heritage front and center on the menu.
KOMAL’s strawberry tamal dulce comes bright red and crowned with pineapple and fruit compote.
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Frank WonHo
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Courtesy KOMAL
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Komal’s tamal verde at Mercado de Paloma comes stuffed with tender chicken and topped with zippy green salsa.
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Frank WonHo
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Courtesy KOMAL
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Beyond the chuchito, Júarez is offering three special tamales as holiday pick-ups for Christmas and New Year's: a deep, complex tamal rojo filled with sweet corn and squash calabacita, a vibrant tomatillo-based tamal verde filled with chicken, and a tamal de leche made with oranges and strawberry jam, a sweet version that hints at the pre-Hispanic tasting menu they're developing.
After the holidays, these tamales will transition to appearing exclusively at Komal's planned ancestral and ceremonial dinners in 2026 — making this a rare chance to try them before they become part of a more formal dining experience.
Available by the half-dozen ($45) or the dozen ($90), they can be ordered for pick-up at KOMAL on Tuesday, Dec. 23, or Tuesday, Dec. 30.
Location: 3655 S. Grand Ave, Los Angeles Hours: Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Campesino Café at The Ecology Center (San Juan Capistrano)
Aaron Zimmer, head chef of Campesino Café at The Ecology Center, works within a unique constraint: everything on his menu comes from the 28-acre regenerative organic farm surrounding the restaurant. That includes the corn he grows, dries, harvests and processes into masa for his tamales.
For the winter season, Zimmer is offering two versions that reflect what's abundant on the farm right now. The shelling bean and cheese tamal ($21) features beans from one of four varieties they grow on-site — shelling beans are harvested before they're thoroughly dried, prized for their creamy texture and delicate, earthy flavor. The cooked-down beans are incorporated into the fresh masa with cheese, then topped with chili con queso made with pickled giardiniera from their summer harvest.
Campesino Café’s tamal duo pairs winter squash in walnut mole with a shelling-bean-and-cheese tamal topped with chile con queso.
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Gab Chabrán
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LAist
)
The winter squash tamal ($21) features squash finished with a walnut mole sauce. The sweet, nutty texture, combined with the squash's sweet, earthy flavors and soft, fresh-tasting masa, creates a highly multidimensional bite.
Both are wrapped in masa and steamed in corn husks, then topped with whatever's available in the larder at any given moment, such as freshly grown cilantro or pickled onion.
It's a hyperlocal, intensely seasonal approach that makes each tamal a snapshot of what the farm is producing — versatile, sustainable, and entirely tied to the land it comes from.
Location: 32701 Alipaz St., San Juan Capistrano Hours: Open daily, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.