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Oinkster: This Little Piggy Went to Eagle Rock

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We wanted to wait a while before checking out the new-ish Oinkster in Eagle Rock--and, admittedly, gear ourselves up for a major pig out on what they call their "slow fast food." So recently we stepped inside the red and white "shack" on Colorado in Eagle Rock for some lunch. Sitting in the interior made us feel like we'd crossed over into one of those nouveau "indie" films with big budgets; maybe it was the early afternoon light streaming in through those massive front-face windows bouncing on all the chrome, maybe it was the really good soft alterna-rock on the sound system (Kings of Convenience's "Misread" was a pleasant surprise, considering the atmosphere), or maybe it was the nearby table of homeboys one-upping each other with their culinary trials and tribulations--it is heartwarming to hear young men sing the praises of aioli. There is something decidedly right on about the overall off-ness of Oinkster.

But down to the crux of the matter: The grub. We went for the Oinkster pastrami, which is a sandwich served with caramelized onions, gruyere and red cabbage slaw, and we tossed on a side o fries and a fountain soda to drink. We took our little plastic number and cozied up on a bench seat, and in a few minutes our plate arrived (pictured). Man, that's a lot of food! The sandwich was satisfying, in that it was meaty, albeit a tad gristly, and juicy, and the bread soaked up the juice just enough to give it that classic "au jus" kick. The red slaw gave it a nice crunch, but the onions were too cold to do much good, and the gruyere kind of a waste, since it got lost among the other flavors. They could have slipped some "white American" from Subway on instead and we probably wouldn't have noticed. Their aioli is great--not the thick paste of Zankou, but a creamier sauce that serves the fries well, especially if alternated with dips into their tangy housemade ketchup. That plate was too much for us to gobble up in one sitting, so we packed it up and took it home, where it was, dare we say, a tad better when reheated, and served with one missing ingredient that the Oinkster folks seem to be working on rectifying: A nice cold beer. If they get that straightened out, this little piggy just might head back to Eagle Rock.

2005 Colorado Boulevard, Eagle Rock
(323) 255-OINK

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