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Delphine: Mediterranean Indulgence

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Rome counts as the Mediterranean, right? Because the press meal held at Delphine last week held such an embarassment of riches I felt as if we should have been eating reclined on one elbow wearing crowns of laurel.

Delphine is the tenth Los Angeles venue owned by the Innovative Dining Group, who also brought us Sushi Roku, Katana and Boa. Housed in the W Hotel on Hollywood Boulevard, it brings a lot of glamour to a run-down section of town. We like the Frolic Room for drinks, but Delphine will provide a much-needed spot for post-Pantages noshing.

When we were first told that Delphine was a brasserie with a Mediterranean menu encompassing the Côte d’Azur, Costa Brava and the Italian Riviera because there were already too many bistros in town, it was a little nervous-making. Sometimes I can be a bit naive when it comes to the business side of things. I like to imagine a restaurant has a certain vision because the chef grew up spending summers on a little beach, not because of the profit margin. Call me a romantic. But this is no corporate chain. Chef Sascha Lyon has a clarity of vision as sharp as a diamond. Nothing was muddled, confused, or fusioned to death. The menu was intriguing and rich with possibility.