With our free press under threat and federal funding for public media gone, your support matters more than ever. Help keep the LAist newsroom strong, become a monthly member or increase your support today .
This archival content was written, edited, and published prior to LAist's acquisition by its current owner, Southern California Public Radio ("SCPR"). Content, such as language choice and subject matter, in archival articles therefore may not align with SCPR's current editorial standards. To learn more about those standards and why we make this distinction, please click here.
Are L.A.'s Jewish Delis at Risk of Going Extinct?
We've been lamenting the loss of all sorts of old-school establishments as of late, one of which was Junior's Deli, a classic old Jewish joint in Westwood that closedin December. But it turns out Junior's isn't the only deli struggling right now. Other purveyors of pastrami are having a hard time, too. But does that mean that there's a nail in the coffin of these beloved institutions?
The L.A. Times reports that three major delis have closed across the country as of late: Ashkenaz Delicatessen in Chicago went dark in November and the 75-year-old Stage Deli in Manhattan also recently shuttered. So did a Jerry's Famous Deli in Costa Mesa. The Times attributes the closures to a few things:
Increasing apathy, particularly from younger patrons, has driven traditional Jewish delicatessens from their mid-century pinnacle. The decline seems to be accelerating partly because of health concerns over the schmaltz-spread fare and partly because bagels are now available in every supermarket.
What they did miss out on, however, is a gaggle of young chefs who are trying to keep the tradition alive, starting up new age Jewish delis or using traditional technique to bring classic dishes to the masses. Take, for instance, Mile End Deli, which opened up its doors in Brooklyn in 2009 and has now expanded to Manhattan. And Kutsher’s in TriBeCa. Or the popular Jewish twists at "Top Chef" alumn Ilan Hall's restaurant, The Gorbals, in Downtown L.A. Even the savvy entrepreneurs at Umami have jumped on board, opening up Umamicatessen to much fanfare.
So is the closure of a Jerry's and a mediocre-at-best place named Juniors signify the end of delis here in L.A.? Hardly. That's not to say there aren't financial woes with the rising cots of fish and meat, but it seems that the time where we're damned to buying lox and bagels at Western (thankfully) isn't here quite yet.
At LAist, we believe in journalism without censorship and the right of a free press to speak truth to those in power. Our hard-hitting watchdog reporting on local government, climate, and the ongoing housing and homelessness crisis is trustworthy, independent and freely accessible to everyone thanks to the support of readers like you.
But the game has changed: Congress voted to eliminate funding for public media across the country. Here at LAist that means a loss of $1.7 million in our budget every year. We want to assure you that despite growing threats to free press and free speech, LAist will remain a voice you know and trust. Speaking frankly, the amount of reader support we receive will help determine how strong of a newsroom we are going forward to cover the important news in our community.
We’re asking you to stand up for independent reporting that will not be silenced. With more individuals like you supporting this public service, we can continue to provide essential coverage for Southern Californians that you can’t find anywhere else. Become a monthly member today to help sustain this mission.
Thank you for your generous support and belief in the value of independent news.
-
The study found recipients spent nearly all the money on basic needs like food and transportation, not drugs or alcohol.
-
Kevin Lee's Tokyo Noir has become one of the top spots for craft-inspired cocktails.
-
A tort claim obtained by LAist via a public records request alleges the Anaheim procurement department lacks basic contracting procedures and oversight.
-
Flauta, taquito, tacos dorados? Whatever they’re called, they’re golden, crispy and delicious.
-
If California redistricts, the conservative beach town that banned LGBTQ Pride flags on city property would get a gay, progressive Democrat in Congress.
-
Most survivors of January's fires face a massive gap in the money they need to rebuild, and funding to help is moving too slowly or nonexistent.