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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • L.A. County takes step toward cooling mandate
    Sun rises in a red sky with the outline of skyscrapers visible
    Sunrise in L.A. on Sept. 7, 2022 when record-setting temperatures hit Southern California.

    Topline:

    It may be cold in Los Angeles these days. But as every Angeleno knows, this place gets hot — even life-threateningly hot — for some residents. This week, the L.A. County Board of Supervisors took a step toward requiring cooling measures in rental housing.

    The background: Currently, L.A. landlords are required to provide their renters with adequate heat — but not air conditioning. Policy makers say cooling is an urgent concern in a state transformed by climate change. With temperatures steadily rising, state researchers have estimated that extreme heat could kill up to 4,300 Californians per year starting in 2025.

    The details: The county’s Department of Public Health issued a report last year recommending that L.A.’s building code be amended to require indoor temperatures of less than 82 degrees Fahrenheit in housing outfitted with air conditioning. But no firm limit has been decided upon yet. And with plans still in early stages, it’s not yet clear what exact cooling devices would be required when temperatures rise above the max.

    When would an AC requirement begin?: Any final vote on requiring air conditioning is still months away. But local landlord groups have started fighting the idea, saying it would be prohibitively expensive to adapt buildings for new cooling measures. Climate activists have rallied behind the proposal. In a letter supporting L.A.’s plans, Jonathan Parfrey with the group Climate Resolve said many L.A. homes “are unprepared for extreme heat.”

    It may be cold in Los Angeles these days. But as every Angeleno knows, this place gets hot — even life-threateningly hot for some residents.

    This week, the L.A. County Board of Supervisors took a step toward requiring cooling measures in rental housing.

    Supervisors Lindsey Horvath and Hilda Solis put forward a motion to begin crafting regulations and reaching out to tenants, landlords and public health experts about plans to establish a legal maximum indoor temperature in rental housing.

    The plans are still in early stages, and it’s not yet clear what exact cooling devices would be required when temperatures rise above the max. The motion passed on a 4-1 vote, with Supervisor Kathryn Barger casting the lone "no" vote against the plan.

    In a statement following Tuesday’s vote, Horvath said extreme heat is one of the deadliest consequences of climate change currently facing L.A. residents.

    “More frequent, longer and hotter heat waves in L.A. County are a public health emergency,” said Horvath, the board’s only renter. “Setting a maximum temperature for rental units will protect our most vulnerable Angelenos, including older adults and families with young children, who deserve safety and comfort in their own home.”

    The county’s Department of Public Health issued a report last year recommending that L.A.’s building code be amended to require indoor temperatures of less than 82 degrees Fahrenheit in housing outfitted with air conditioning.

    Currently, L.A. landlords are required to provide their renters with adequate heat. But no such requirement exists for air conditioning.

    Final votes months away

    Any final vote on requiring air conditioning is still months away, and many questions on implementation have yet to be decided. But local landlord groups have started fighting the idea, saying it would be prohibitively expensive to adapt buildings for new cooling measures.

    During the Tuesday meeting’s public comment period, Jesus Rojas with the Apartment Association of Greater L.A. said air conditioning “can easily triple [a household’s] existing electricity bill, in addition to the cost of the AC units themselves."

    “At a time when both mom-and-pop owners and renters are still struggling financially to recover from the impacts of COVID-19, this motion seems particularly callous and tone-deaf to the needs of L.A. County residents,” Rojas said.

    County leaders are considering enacting the cooling measures as a public health requirement, meaning that the final rules would apply to most of L.A. County (excluding cities that maintain their own public health departments, such as Pasadena and Long Beach).

    Phoenix and Las Vegas already mandate cool air 

    Other lawmakers in California are exploring similar requirements. One proposal is being considered by the L.A. City Council. State lawmakers are expecting recommendations from the California Department of Housing and Community Development by Jan. 1, 2025.

    Policy makers say cooling is an urgent concern in a state transformed by climate change. With temperatures steadily rising, state researchers have estimated that extreme heat could kill up to 4,300 Californians per year starting in 2025.

    In a letter supporting L.A.’s plans, Jonathan Parfrey with the group Climate Resolve said many L.A. homes “are unprepared for extreme heat.”

    If the county’s plans move forward, L.A. would not be the first part of the country to require air conditioning in apartments. Renters in cities such as Phoenix and Las Vegas are covered by legal cooling standards.

  • Company pledges $50k to cover utility bills
    A resident picks up air purifiers from a pop-up resource center in Boyle Heights
    East Los Angeles resident Nataly Degante, 35, saw an over $200 increase in her utility bill this month — the result of running five air purifiers in her home 24/7 to keep out pollutants and the stench of rotting food since the Lineage warehouse fire. Her AC unit also runs occasionally, when the heat becomes unbearable, Degante said. Opening the windows isn’t an option.

    Topline:

    In Boyle Heights, Lineage has donated $50,000 that will automatically go towards covering the bill for 219 LA Department of Water and Power customers living closest to the fire that burned in June. Now, LA County Supervisor Hilda Solis wants Lineage to pledge to do the same for unincorporated East LA, which gets electricity via Southern California Edison.

    Why it matters: Families in Boyle Heights and East L.A. are still dealing with the stench emanating from the remains of the Lineage warehouse over a month after it burned. East Los Angeles resident Nataly Degante, 35, saw an over $200 increase in her utility bill this month — the result of running five air purifiers in her home 24/7 to keep out pollutants and the stench of rotting food since the Lineage warehouse fire. Her AC unit also runs occasionally, when the heat becomes unbearable, Degante said. Opening the windows isn’t an option.

    How to know if you qualify: According to LADWP, an automatic payment will be applied to customers that live within the designated boundary (between Los Palos Street, Hicks Avenue, Union Pacific Avenue and Beswick Street). Dave Ford, senior government relations manager for SCE, that the utility company was in conversation with Lineage to provide similar support for residents of East LA.

    This story first appeared on The LA Local.

    East Los Angeles resident Nataly Degante, 35, saw an over $200 increase in her utility bill this month — the result of running five air purifiers in her home 24/7 to keep out pollutants and the stench of rotting food since the Lineage warehouse fire. Her AC unit also runs occasionally, when the heat becomes unbearable, Degante said. Opening the windows isn’t an option.

    “I had those air purifiers on 24/7, all the time, even at night because in the night it smells the absolute worst…The amount of my bill is too much,” Degante said. Her children, 10 and 14, often complain about the smell and early on, they experienced headaches, nausea and nosebleeds as a result of the fire, she said. 

    City and county agencies as well as Lineage have given away thousands of air purifiers to residents throughout the month at various resource sites or through door-to-door distribution. Officials have touted the resource in their response efforts and have also promised utility bill assistance to offset the costs of running the purifiers for long hours. 

    The result? In Boyle Heights, Lineage has donated $50,000 that will automatically go towards covering the bill for 219 LA Department of Water and Power (LADWP) customers living closest to the fire. Now, LA County Supervisor Hilda Solis wants Lineage to pledge to do the same for unincorporated East LA, which gets electricity via Southern California Edison (SCE). Officials didn’t immediately provide details whether additional support would be available. Meanwhile, a coalition of community groups has been calling for widespread relief as poor air quality has affected not just homes immediately surrounding the warehouse, but neighboring areas as well.

    The promise to cover utility bills for residents affected by the fire was first brought up at a roundtable meeting between Bass, Councilmember Ysabel Jurado and local business owners who said they’d experienced lower foot traffic due to the smoke and smell but still had bills to pay. Bass pledged to speak to the general manager of the LADWP to discuss what could be done about utility bills. 

    In a July 9 interview with Boyle Heights Beat, Bass advised LA residents to “save your DWP bills,” to compare their costs before and after the fire and hopefully provide some relief. At a contentious town hall meeting between Lineage, city and county officials and hundreds of residents that evening, Jeff Rivera, chief operating officer of Lineage, presented a new wave of support for those living near the warehouse that included “Supporting residents utility bills through LADWP.”

    Exactly what that support would look like has been unclear until now.

    According to LADWP, 219 customers located closest to the Lineage warehouse will soon have an automatic, fixed, one-time payment applied to their accounts. LADWP said the payments were funded through a “private donation,” but could not share any information about the private donor or how the homes were chosen. 

    Bass’ office told The Beat that the private donation of $50,000 came from Lineage and the 219 homes were chosen because they are LADWP customers that live within the boundary of what officials have determined is the area with the most need. The city and county have used the same map to determine what homes are eligible for temporary housing assistance through AirBnB. The map covers homes in both Boyle Height and East LA located between Los Palos Street and Hicks Avenue and Union Pacific Avenue and Beswick Street, but officials have never explained why those boundaries were chosen.  

    East Los Angeles resident Nataly Degante, 35, saw an over $200 increase in her utility bill this month — the result of running five air purifiers in her home 24/7 to keep out pollutants and the stench of rotting food since the Lineage warehouse fire. Her AC unit also runs occasionally, when the heat becomes unbearable, Degante said. Opening the windows isn’t an option.

    According to the mayor’s office, Bass is “working to raise additional funds to expand the number of residents and businesses that can benefit from this assistance.”

    So far, residents in unincorporated East LA are not included in the utility bill assistance funded by Lineage. 

    On Friday, LA County Supervisor Hilda Solis called that out, writing in a statement that “no comparable assistance was secured for East Los Angeles” by Lineage. Solis said she connected with SCE to ensure residents were also being supported and promoted a phone number in an Instagram post for residents to call. 

    East LA resident Degante called that number this week and was disappointed to find out that the assistance available was not more comprehensive. SCE has provided options for customers to opt for a payment plan or apply for SCE’s Energy Assistance Fund which allows customers experiencing hardship to receive a grant of up to $200 through a partner organization like the Salvation Army. Applying for the grant needs to be done directly through the organization.  

    “Quite frankly, from what I saw in the Instagram post, I thought it was gonna be like a pardon. … It was not the case,” Degante said. 

    Now she worries that even if help becomes available for East LA residents, she will not be eligible because she lives about a mile and a half from Lineage. 

    “Now I see an immense need for East LA to have its own council, to have its own city hall, because I don’t feel like we’re being seen. I feel like if anything, we’re being ignored,” Degante said. 

    A coalition of affected residents known as Protect LA Now, is using the term “Eastside+” to describe the broader area they say was also impacted by the fire including Maywood, Huntington Park, Cudahy, Commerce, Montebello, Monterey Park and El Sereno.

    On Wednesday, Protect LA Now urged local officials and Gov. Gavin Newsom to act to provide relief for residents who are now “forced to pay outrageous electric bills.” 

    “These families are still waiting for government officials to have solutions- not to hand every public health decision to Lineage, the company that caused this,” Protect LA Now said in a statement Wednesday. The group planned a community vigil and teach-in on Wednesday evening at Resurrection Church in Boyle Heights.

    At Tuesday’s LA County Board of Supervisors meeting, the government body that provides representation to unincorporated areas like East LA, Solis convened multiple agencies including the South Coast Air Quality Management District, LA County Public Health and SCE to review ongoing recovery efforts and provide clarity on the support available. 

    Dave Ford, senior government relations manager for SCE, said during the meeting that the utility company was in conversation with Lineage to provide support for residents of East LA, too.

    “We’re looking at working with them on very similar program that they have provided for the city of Los Angeles and doing the same in the unincorporated area of East LA,” Ford said. 

    Christian Garcia of SCE thanked Solis for “helping to bring Lineage to the table,” adding, “…it was a little bit frustrating to get them in there.” 

    Garcia said Lineage is now establishing a fund for more than 100 SCE customers in unincorporated East LA to receive some relief on their bill, similar to those in Boyle Heights. The exact numbers are still being finalized.

    “I think what the minimum is to request nothing less than what the city is receiving,” Solis said. 

    Lineage told Boyle Heights Beat that they are working on solidifying the details of their support with SCE.

    How to know if you qualify: 

    According to LADWP, an automatic payment will be applied to customers that live within the designated boundary (between Los Palos Street, Hicks Avenue, Union Pacific Avenue and Beswick Street).

    No further action is required from qualified customers.

    What support is available for residents that live outside of the boundary?

    LADWP customers can request:

    • Payment arrangements: No down payment, no interest, no fees; A long-term payment option that divides the total account balance evenly across a specified number of billing periods.
    • Payment extension: A short-term payment option that gives customers additional time, up to one billing period, to pay their full balance.
    • Level pay: A billing option that helps you plan by providing predictable monthly bills based on average usage. You can also roll in past-due balances.

    To inquire about these programs, call 1-800-DIAL-DWP, visit a customer service center or use the online form on LADWP.com/ContactUs .

    LADWP customers can also apply for the Low Income Home Energy Assistance Program (LIHEAP) through the Maravilla Foundation. But the Maravilla Foundation website says that due to reduced government funding and high demand, fewer applications are being accepted. To qualify for LIHEAP, the monthly income for a family of four must not exceed $6,407.16. A full list of requirements and application instructions can be found here.

    SCE customers can apply for:

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  • Men’s Central Jail likely to stay open beyond 2031
    L.A. County's goal to close Men's Central Jail in downtown L.A. has been delayed multiple times since 2020.

    Topline:

    The team leading L.A. County’s push to close Men’s Central Jail says a full closure is not feasible in the next five years, as some people incarcerated there have housing needs that can’t be met at other facilities.

    The backstory: This is yet another delay since the county Board of Supervisors voted in July 2020 to close the jail within one year. A two-year plan was announced in 2021, then a five-year plan in 2024.

    Why it matters: Men’s Central Jail has long had issues, with county officials calling it “decrepit” and “inhumane.” Sheriff Robert Luna, whose department runs the jails, would also like to see the jail closed.

    What’s next: The county is anticipated to expand diversion programs to reduce the jail population countywide, and also to relocate some from Men’s Central Jail in order to potentially close one floor of the facility. Luna and Supervisor Kathryn Barger have urged the Board of Supervisors to reconsider building a replacement facility, but the board and justice reform advocates have held for years that the county should not build a new jail.

    Read on ... for more about the plans for Men's Central Jail and the conditions inside.

    The team leading L.A. County’s push to close Men’s Central Jail says a full closure is not feasible in the next five years.

    This is yet another delay since the county Board of Supervisors voted in July 2020 to close the jail within one year. A two-year plan was announced in 2021, then a five-year plan in 2024.

    The Jail Closure Implementation Team, also known as JCIT, told the Board of Supervisors this week that they’ve outlined a framework that will improve conditions for thousands of people in L.A. County’s justice system, but the steps they’ve identified are still not enough to safely close the jail within the five-year timeline.

    Some supervisors expressed frustration in the lack of progress, but restated their commitment to close the jail. They passed a subsequent measure to provide $28 million this year for JCIT’s work.

    “Men’s Central Jail is a decrepit, outdated facility inconsistent with human values and basic decency,” Supervisor Janice Hahn told LAist in a statement after the vote. “It puts both those incarcerated there and our sheriff’s deputies at risk.”

    Hahn and other county supervisors have emphasized the need for a collaborative and comprehensive effort to shut down the jail without compromising public safety.

    Inhumane conditions

    Why close the jail?

    “The reason it's important to close the jail is that the jail is a hellhole,” Eric Miller told LAist. “It is physically disgusting and is an inhumane place to house anybody.”

    Miller is a professor at Loyola Law School and was a member of the Sybil Brand Commission until he stepped down in February.

    That commission, tasked with oversight of county jails and lockups, visited the Men’s Central Jail earlier this month and found issues with the quality of drinking water, moldy or burned food, people not receiving toilet paper or other hygiene products and delayed medical care.

    A May inspection also found rust and gnats in drinking water and concerns that people’s grievances and medical requests were going unanswered.

    “The Sybil Brand reports have been consistent that the jail is infested with vermin and mold,” Miller said, “and it's not limited to one place in the jail.”

    Miller said the issues aren't limited to Men’s Central Jail either, and closing the facility won’t fix underlying problems in how people are treated in the L.A. County’s justice system.

    There have been 23 deaths in L.A. County custody since the beginning of the year, according to the LASD website. Six of those deaths occurred at Men’s Central Jail.

    The Sheriff's Department said it takes findings from inspections seriously and works to address them.

    “Despite ongoing challenges, including a rising inmate population and an aging Men's Central Jail, our staff have remained committed to providing constitutional, humane care to those in our custody,” the department wrote in a statement. “We are proud of the progress we've made and confident in our ability to continue delivering meaningful change for our community.”

    A path to closure

    Wilford Pinkney Jr., the executive director of JCIT, told the Board of Supervisors on Tuesday that by expanding diversionary programs, pretrial services and other strategies, the daily population at the jail could be reduced by more than 800 people by 2031.

    Pinkney said JCIT also estimated that just over one-quarter of the 4,020 people currently incarcerated at Men’s Central Jail might be relocated to other facilities, allowing one floor of the facility to close in the next five years.

    Many could not be housed anywhere else due to "specialty housing needs, security level, or a requirement to be housed in a single cell,” he said.

    The repeated delays have drawn criticism from justice reform advocates, loved ones of people incarcerated there and public officials.

    “ I understand frustration because people don't see action,” Pinkney told LAist before Tuesday’s Board of Supervisors meeting.

    During the meeting, he said JCIT has been working to provide tested solutions and show that the county is making progress.

    Janet Asante of the JusticeLA Coalition said it's a good sign to finally have more substantive plans on how jail closure will move forward.

    “ We've been fighting for [JCIT] to even exist,” Asante told LAist. “They did not get staff until November or December of 2024, and that's four years after the vote to close Men's Central Jail without a replacement.”

    She said JusticeLA hopes they see urgent action from the county and stronger leadership from JCIT.

    Skepticism has also come from those who think the process may still be moving too quickly.

    David Slayton, the executive officer of the L.A. County Superior Court, wrote a letter to Pinkney on June 29 saying the court had “significant concerns.”

    He wrote that the plans relied on “increased Court capacity, additional courtroom availability, expanded judicial officer staffing, new physical space, and enhanced operational infrastructure — none of which the Court can currently accommodate" without additional funding from the state.

    Other advocates, like Marcel Rodarte from the California Contract Cities Association, cautioned against risking public safety.

    “We ask you to keep every option on the table, including replacement capacity, and to make no final decision until adequate capacity, services, and funding are in place," Rodarte said at Tuesday’s meeting.

    Officials respond

    Supervisors remain committed to closing the jail.

    Supervisor Holly Mitchell told LAist in a statement that it’s “not just about closing a building—it is about transforming a system and is integral to the County's broader public safety strategy.”

    She said the new report from JCIT was a “sobering reminder” of the work left to do.

    Supervisor Lindsey Horvath pressed JCIT and other county offices Tuesday to give a more concrete action plan and timeline.

    Supervisor Kathryn Barger also pushed for urgent action from the board and JCIT toward closing the jail during the meeting, but said she also believes the county needs to build a replacement facility that could more safely and affordably house people currently at Men’s Central Jail.

    Sheriff Robert Luna told supervisors that he supports plans to close Men’s Central Jail, but that he sees a need for a new facility.

    “ The population that I serve and care for has completely changed,” Luna said. “We have to pay attention to the data and make sure that we move forward collectively together to make sure that we're caring for the people in our custody.”

    The board has so far rejected options for a replacement jail since plans for the Consolidated Correctional Treatment Facility were canceled in 2019.

    How to reach me

    If you have a tip, you can reach me on Signal. My username is  jrynning.56.

  • How to weigh in on LAPD's new deal with company
    A close-up of a matte black camera and solar panel tied to a telephone pole with silver metal straps.
    Communities across the country are terminating ties with automated license plate reader companies.

    Topline:

    The Los Angeles Police Department recently suspended its contract with Flock Safety, a company that operates automated license plate readers nationwide. The department is now asking for public feedback on what's next.

    Why it matters: Law enforcement agencies say the tech helps them with criminal investigations, but L.A. residents have expressed concerns about the misuse and abuse of data. Public outcry sharpened after reports that some local law enforcement agencies illegally shared data with federal immigration agents.

    What's next: On July 30, the LAPD’s Office of the Inspector General will hold a public listening session on the issue on Zoom.

    Keep reading... For details on that meeting.

    The Los Angeles Police Department recently suspended its contract with Flock Safety, a surveillance company whose use of AI-powered automated license plate readers has raised questions about civil liberties and data sharing in communities nationwide.

    That doesn't mean LAPD’s relationship with Flock is over.

    The department said it let its previous agreement with Flock lapsed due to questions over who owns and who can access the data gathered in the city. Currently, LAPD officials are negotiating a new deal, which, they say, will include more safeguards.

    How you can have a say

    For Angelenos who want to weigh in on the move, the LAPD’s Office of the Inspector General will hold a public meeting on July 30.

    Chad Marlow, senior policy counsel at the American Civil Liberties Union, said he believes community input is crucial when it comes to this technology. He said that input should determine how — or even if— localities decide to implement license plate readers.

    Police departments, he said, can get “very tunnel-visioned on law enforcement motives, and they don't think about community impact . . . If you want to come up with the right motives, so you come up with the right solutions, you need to start with listening to people in the community.”

    What law enforcement says about Flock technology

    Law enforcement agencies say the tech helps them with criminal investigations and makes it easier to locate stolen vehicles.

    One local example: Costa Mesa voted this week 6-1 to keep its Flock contract. Officials cited success in three missing person cases, 20 stolen car recoveries, as well as helping solve 10 sexual assaults, according to Voice of OC coverage of the meeting.

    That said, even in cities where elected officials have touted successes, more and more questions are being asked about who has access to the data gathered locally.

    Data privacy concerns

    In Greater L.A., cities like South Pasadena and South Gate have moved to cut ties with Flock over privacy concerns. So has the Oxnard Police Department.

    L.A. residents have expressed concerns about the misuse and abuse of data. Public outcry sharpened after reports that some local law enforcement agencies illegally shared license plate reader data with federal immigration agents.

    The ACLU’s Marlow, who specializes in privacy, surveillance and technology issues, said some cities using the Flock technology scan plates against existing hot lists and then immediately delete the data.

    “If that is your goal, identifying cars of interest to law enforcement, then you have no need to store the data for any more than a couple of minutes,” he said. “And you certainly don't have a need to share it broadly.”

    He said it shouldn't be used for tracking “what doctors' offices you go to, what political meetings you go to, what religious institutions you go to.”

    ACLU's toolkit

    A toolkit developed by Marlow and his ACLU colleagues. It walks community members through how to discover whether Flock or similar companies have deployed cameras in their neighborhoods.

    The toolkit encourages community members to ask themselves:

    • What specific problem does [my] community want to address? 
    • Does mass surveillance actually fix the issue? 
    • Are we just throwing new technology at a problem that it cannot solve?

    How to weigh-in on the LAPD’s Flock negotiations

    When: The public listening session will take place on Thursday, July 30, at 4:00 p.m. on Zoom at this link.

    How to get up to speed: The Office of the Inspector General also shared a report on the LAPD’s automatic license plate reader system.

    Kevin Tidmarsh contributed to this reporting.

  • Japanese food, one man's vision
    A man with a medium-dark skin tone, long gray hair in a ponytail, and a long gray goatee leans over his work at the counter, his tattooed arms visible as he prepares a dish.
    Kyoto-born chef Yoya Takahashi at work behind the counter at Homareya in Long Beach.

    Topline:

    Homareya, the izakaya from Kyoto-born chef Yoya Takahashi, opened in downtown Long Beach and has quietly become one of the more interesting Japanese restaurants in the city.

    Why it matters: Takahashi isn't doing omakase or ramen. He's doing Japanese food on his own terms — a seasonal, rotating menu, local sourcing, and the kind of creative freedom that comes from a chef who spent years paying dues across L.A.'s Japanese restaurant circuit before deciding to cook exactly what he wants.

    Why now: Downtown Long Beach's dining scene is evolving, and Homareya feels like a leading edge of that — a restaurant that's as rooted in its neighborhood as it is in Kyoto.

    "Japanese people, we do not eat too much sushi and ramen, actually. We eat so many different things," says chef Yoya Takahashi.

    You've probably noticed that Japanese food in the U.S. has a tendency to fall into certain lanes — sushi, ramen and the like. For Takahashi, after years working in Japanese restaurants across L.A., the repetitive nature of doing the same fish, the same sequence, every day, was driving him almost to his wits' end.

    That's when his izakaya concept started to take shape. A drinking and dining experience that was personal and, more importantly, a truer vision of the diverse offerings of Japanese cooking back home. No set menu, a more seasonal approach, Japanese food on its own terms. Basically, whatever the hell he wanted.

    The result is Homareya, his izakaya in downtown Long Beach.

    What to order

    The menu moves with the improvisational ease of a Jerry Garcia guitar solo — unhurried, searching, funky and cool, following the thread wherever it leads, and always landing somewhere that feels inevitable.

    It spans the raw, the grilled, the fried, the fermented — Japanese and Californian in equal measure, almost autobiographical in its range. It began with saba nigiri — lightly torched, iridescent skin, 15-year-old vinegar rice, a quiet nod to his sushi roots. Then he moves on to a couple of yakitori skewers — simple and satisfying, approachable and adventurous between the same few bites of chicken thigh and liver. The monkfish karaage arrives looking like chicken and tastes like something better — his non-conforming nature in a single bite.

    The Japadilla at Homareya, a Sonoratown tortilla charred on the binchotan and dusted with aonori, cut into wedges and served in a dark ceramic bowl.
    The Japadilla — a Sonoratown tortilla filled with soy-simmered beef, Jidori egg, konnyaku, mozzarella, sansho pepper and ichimi — is the dish that says everything about Takahashi's cooking.
    (
    Gab Chabrán
    /
    LAist
    )

    Then there's the Japadilla — a Sonoratown tortilla charred over binchotan and filled with soy-simmered beef, Jidori egg, konnyaku (a starchy Japanese root vegetable), mozzarella, sansho pepper and ichimi. Unapologetically Long Beach. Completely his own.

    Takahashi regularly visits farmers markets in Long Beach and Cerritos — no further — along with tending a small plot at a community garden a few miles north of the restaurant. His wife Yoshiko Nishibe is the Bob Weir to his Garcia, bringing her own creative spirit to an in-house fermentation program — koji, miso, mirin, fermented soy, all from scratch — and not afraid to experiment with unexpected bases like chickpea and mustard miso, the latter showing up in the firefly squid special, a dish that rewards the curious diner who orders off the menu.

    Why Long Beach

    Moving to Long Beach 15 years ago, Takahashi fell in love with the bar scene — a city long known for its old-school haunts. It was the individual free spirits he identified with that made it feel like home.

    The exterior of Homareya at night, its illuminated sign glowing above a warmly lit storefront in downtown Long Beach.
    Homareya, on Linden Ave. in downtown Long Beach.
    (
    Courtesy Homareya
    )

    At Homareya, the menu includes sake, wine, and Japanese craft beer, all hand-selected. The wine list itself is a partnership with local bottle shop Buvons, where he sometimes pops up. Then there's the shochu — a Japanese spirit distilled from ingredients like barley, sweet potato, or rice, lighter than most Western spirits and endlessly versatile — which is perhaps the most personal part of the program.

    Five selections anchored by the Beni Otome, a sesame shochu that Takahashi serves poured directly over hojicha, a roasted green tea, nutty, herbaceous, and exactly right for a Long Beach summer.

    His background

    Takahashi grew up in Kyoto, before immigrating to the U.S. in 2000 with only a backpack and a dream of becoming an actor. It makes perfect sense once you look at him — his long grey ponytail, tattooed arms, and unmistakable gruff voice would make him a shoo-in for a bit part in an independent film with the likes of Jim Jarmusch or Wes Anderson.

    He ended up washing dishes to pay rent until someone suggested he try making sushi instead — eventually landing in Little Tokyo, where he trained at Hamakawa, a now-closed institution, and later in Gardena at Kanpachi. Learning directly from older Japanese mentors, watching and doing, no internet to fall back on.

    A team of chefs and cooks work behind an open counter as guests look on from the bar.
    The open kitchen at Homareya puts every move in full view of the room.
    (
    Courtesy Homareya
    )

    His grandfather was a stage actor back in Kyoto, and one of those mentors once told him the sushi counter works the same way. Same instincts, different medium — you see it in the quiet, calculated way Takahashi moves before setting a plate down in front of you.

    For Takahashi, Homareya represents a reclamation of something: his voice, his cooking, his terms. The name says it plainly — Homare, an alternate reading of the chef's own name, paired with ya, the Japanese word for home. At Homareya, that's not a concept. It's a promise.