Topline:
As the Tesla diner prepares to open in Hollywood, we focus on long-time, homegrown varieties, like Swingers, the iconic, quirky Fairfax district hangout.
Why it matters: Diners in L.A. have existed since the 1950s, synonymous with car and cruising culture. Today, they still hold a special place in our hearts whenever we crave fried food or a milkshake.
Why now? With the Tesla Diner opening soon, we wanted to explore what makes our diners unique, from the food to the sense of community.
You may have heard that Elon Musk is expanding his Tesla footprint with a 24-hour diner opening some time later this year smack dab in the middle of Hollywood.
Musk promises that the space on Santa Monica Boulevard, near La Brea, will be “Grease meets The Jetsons with Superchargers,” equipped with two movie screens and multiple supercharging stations featuring “1950s retro charm” and “dazzling neon lights.”
From my drive by the construction site earlier this week, that's certainly its vibe.
(I was a little surprised by how small it seems. It feels like traffic is going to be a nightmare once it opens. You've been warned).
While it may be exciting for all the Elon stans and Tesla drivers out there, it made me think about our already-existing much-loved diners.
West Coast diner culture has always been distinctive. Initially, it was centered on classic cars and cruising culture, and there’s no doubt that Elon and his army of Tesla charging ports are looking to capitalize on that very idea of cool.
But over the years, we’ve also added other strands of SoCal to the mix, like using fresh and organic produce or including huevos rancheros or teriyaki bowls on the menu. Damn, we really do make it our own!
This week, we’re going to focus on different diners in SoCal. Today, it’s Swingers in the Fairfax District. Later in the week, look out for Le Hut Dinette in Santa Ana and Max & Helen's, Phil Rosenthal’s upcoming diner in Larchmont (as in Phil Rosenthal of Netflix's Somebody Feed Phil fame.)
The history of diners in America dates back to the late 1800s, when mobile lunch carts sold food outside East Coast factories and offices. By the early 20th century, decommissioned diner cars were being repurposed and converted into freestanding restaurants.
On the West Coast, diners developed a unique style that combined 1930s Art Deco aesthetics with 1950s Googie architecture.
With all-day, endless-option breakfasts and quick and easy communal eating at the counter, it became the perfect dine-out option for Angelenos busy building the city.
Taking that exact formula and running with it, Swingers opened in 1993 on Beverly Boulevard in the Fairfax district, creating its unique take on the traditional form.
Situated less than 10 minutes from the upcoming Tesla diner, Swingers owner Stephanie Wilson describes her diner as a sacred space that offers a respite from the outside world.
“ Swingers has been a place where, when things feel wrong in the world, you know you can go and everything's gonna feel the same and the same familiar faces will be there,” she said.
Catering to a creative clientele, she says the diner is inviting and welcoming to all.
"The weirder you are, the cooler you'll look at Swingers; we love that about our customers and neighborhood,” Wilson said.
Wilson describes its menu as “elevated,” offering food a cut above what you'd normally find at a diner.
“ It's healthy, but you can be bad if you wanna be, too,” Wilson said.
She says most customers tend to stick to classic diner food, like the All-American Breakfast (two organic eggs, served with your choice of bacon or sausage, with both vegetarian and vegan options available) that comes with a side of pancakes.
More modern dishes like avocado toast can do well, but Wilson said that whenever they’ve tried to get too fancy with their menu offerings, they tend to fall flat. Like when they added quinoa oats with a maple syrup drizzle. “It was tasty, but no one ordered it,” she said.
While many regulars tend to sink into a booth, where the signature plaid vinyl pattern is cozy and makes for a good photo op, I personally love to grab a seat at the counter and watch the kitchen and wait staff interact with each other while listening to music from the jukebox.
A diner space often has a sense of built-in nostalgia, but Swingers has its own version.
"We mostly like to keep Swingers exactly as you remember it," Wilson said. "Our retro design and general vibe to me will always be perfection.
“ It's the same as when you walked in 12 or 22 years ago. The wallpaper's the same, the vibe is the same, and even the servers look the same, so I think that that kind of history is so important to honor and to support."