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  • How to eat your way through Grand Central Market
    GUIDE-TO-GRAND-CENTRAL-MARKET
    Grand Central Market: many tastes of L.A., all in one place

    Topline:

    Grand Central Market in DTLA can feel overwhelming. Where to go? What to eat? How to decide? We get it. That's why we put together this guide for eating your way through one of the most popular food destinations in L.A.

    Why it matters: Grand Central Market is a downtown Los Angeles landmark, not to mention a great destination to sample a wide variety of cuisines. This guide is designed to help you try as much as possible in one visit.

    Why now: Whether you are entertaining family from out of town this holiday season or looking to go on a food adventure with friends, follow our guide of tips, hacks and tricks to try a little bit of everything at GCM.

    The iconic Los Angeles Grand Central Market is a must-visit for both out of towners and Angelenos. Somehow the grand dame of downtown dining manages to combine great 100 plus year old character with today's burgeoning and creative food scene.

    But with over 40 vendors offering tempting food, it can get a little overwhelming. (We've been there, we understand!)

    This is our guide to hacking Grand Central Market — what to skip, what you can't miss — so you can try as many delicious things as possible.

    Start small

    It’s easy to experience sensory overload when you first start walking through the various stalls, and you’ll immediately start to see things you like. But remember — you're in for the long haul. Pick some shareable dishes to keep things light. For now.

    Here's where you should start:

    The shrimp cocktail at Broad Street Oyster Co.

    Five plump, cooked shrimp sit on a bed of crushed ice in a metal tray: The shrimp are perfectly oriented around a serving of cocktail sauce, and a wedge of lemon is placed just so on the edge of the sauce cup.
    Get ready to squeeze and dip.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    Sure, you can go for lobster rolls or a seafood tower, but if you want to go the distance at GCM, the shrimp cocktail from Broad Street Oyster Co. is the way to go. Four plump shrimp arrive over crushed ice with a side of cocktail sauce and a slice of lemon. Having a shrimp cocktail is always a good idea. There’s something about dipping shrimp spritzed with a bit of citrus into quality cocktail sauce that stirs the soul. It’s enough to share with others and won’t fill you up on the long food journey to come.

    The currywurst platter at Berlin Currywurst

    Two side-by-side sausage offerings: On the left, the sausage is served in a roll, and drizzled with sauces including a mustard, and served atop a brown paper square laid out inside a cardboard tray. On the right, the sausage is served sliced, with a wooden fork for spearing, and a heel of bread. Both trays are sitting atop a white stone counter.
    You can choose to have your bread on the side at Berlin Currywurst, or go all in and have your sausage delivered in a roll.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    Next up: The currywurst from Berlin Currywurst. The dish consists of sliced sausage, with a choice of pork, chicken, veal, beef, or tofu kielbasa, topped with a sweet currywurst sauce containing hints of tomato, vinegar, and spices accompanied by a nice round bun. It makes for a lovely snack to share with others. Dip the sausage into the curry sauce and place it on a torn piece of bread, and you'll feel like you’ve reached some kind of culinary nirvana.

    The Korean fried chicken at Shiku

    A compact-sized paper to-go container contains several pieces of golden deep fried chicken. Wedged into the side of the container is a creamy green dipping sauce. The tray is sitting on a white picnic table.
    The perfect app: The Korean fried chicken from Shiku.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    Head to the Korean fried chicken at Shiku. The shareable, sizable chunks of fried chicken are made with a quality batter that’s equally crunchy and flavorful with each bite, especially when it comes topped with either their aji verde or sriracha aioli providing just the right kick. The vegan option, made with pyogo mushrooms, is also a solid choice. Pyogo is the Korean word for shitake and makes for a great non-meat option to try.

    The Cali fries at Maple Block Meat Co.

    A rectangular, brown cardboard box sits atop a white picnic table. The box is open, revealing golden brown French fries piled inside, drizzled with a cheese sauce, a homemade Thousand Island-style dressing and finally topped off with caramelized onions and diced, fried jalapeños.
    These fries are loaded up!
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    Mosey on over to Maple Block Meat Co., located on the outdoor patio section of the market, known for its delicious barbecue. However, our favorite option is their Cali fries. No doubt a play of the popular secret menu option Animal Style fries at In-N-Out, but dare we say we like the ones at Maple Block a tad more? The combination of cheese sauce, housemade thousand island dressing, grilled onions, and chopped chiles always seems to hit perfectly. Not to mention, the fries themselves will pair exceptionally with the cheeseburger from For The Win... which is coming right up.

    Main Event: Entrees

    Yes, that's entrees with an s.

    The cheeseburger at For The Win

    A smashburger with cheese sits atop a white plate, which is in turn placed on a blue serving tray: The burger looks ready to devour, with cheese melting down its side, and pickles peeking out from beneath the bun. Nearby sits a tray of golden brown French fries. The tray is sitting on a white picnic table.
    If you're sharing, why not add on an order of fries?
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    Smash burgers are the gift that keeps on giving. You could throw a dart at a map of the greater Los Angeles area, and there’s a chance you’ll hit a place where you can find a good one. Here at the Grand Central Market, For The Win is where it’s at. The local chain, which has other locations in Hollywood, Glendale, and Whittier, should be on the list for anyone who loves an excellent smashed patty on a soft bun. What differentiates it from other burger joints is that For the Win goes the extra mile regarding the crucial details. The lacy edges on the burger patty tend to be slightly more crispy than most, with just the right amount of fatty flavor. The same goes for the creamy, slightly spicy fry sauce slathered on every burger. While the burger itself isn’t huge, you can cut it into fourths and share, especially if you are still saving room for a few other bites.

    The mixed carnitas taco at Tacos Tumbos A Tomas

    A tray covered in a square of serving paper hold two tacos piled high with carnitas, and then topped off with a diced mix of onions and cilantro. A light-skinned hand is reaching in to squeeze lime over the tacos, and more wedges of lemon and lime sit nearby. There are several tortillas folded over each other in the far end of the tray, ready to be pressed into taco duty.
    Those extra tortillas in the back make for convenient sharing: Everyone gets their own taco!
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    For those looking for the most bang for your buck, the mixed carnitas taco from Tacos Tumbos A Tomas is the winner. It contains various pig parts, including pork shoulder, stomach, skin, and cheeks. It is piled high with meat, along with diced onion, cilantro, and your choice of red and green salsa. They include extra tortillas to assemble leftover makeshift tacos with taco dregs. Your taco cup will run over, and that’s a good thing. One taco can feed four or maybe even five people, depending on the hunger level, which is perfect as we’re only about halfway through our food crawl of GCM.

    The loroco con queso at Saritas Pupuseria

    Two side-by-side dishes sit on disposable plates placed on a wood tabletop: On the left, there are soupy black beans, plantains fried to a deep dark brown, and a generous dollop of sour cream. On the right, there's a pupusa that has been cut into, with the cheese oozing out. The pupusa is drizzled with a ribbon of orange salsa. A plastic knife and fork lay nearby, ready for digging in.
    If you have room in your belly, don't skip the fried plantains and beans from this iconic GCM stall.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    The iconic Saritas Pupuseria always seems to deliver: The loroco con queso, a personal favorite, is made with an edible flower that looks like a vegetable, similar to asparagus. Go ahead and try it. Its flavors meld perfectly into the cheese griddled stunningly into the fresh-tasting masa outside the pupusa. Top the pupusa off with the pickled slaw known as curtido and salsa roja. Don’t forget to add a side of sweet fried plantains, some black refried beans and crema Salvadoreña. It’s a feast that is perfect for sharing — or for taking home.

    The LA Galbi BBQ rice bowl at Shiku

    A rectangular tray contains a bed of rice, topped off with slices of seasoned and sauced short ribs that still contain the bone. A sprinkling of sesame seeds top off the meat. Ribbons of marinated and grilled onions are part of the traditional sides tucked in alongside the rice.
    This is a favorite on the menu at Shiku.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    Next up, we're heading back for more at Shiku, but this time for a rice bowl: The LA Galbi. The story goes that when Korean immigrants started moving to Los Angeles and frequenting the various carnicerias searching for meat to grill, they discovered flanken-style short ribs thinly cut across the bone. They decided to marinate it in their galbi sauce, containing sweet and savory flavors with hints of garlic and sesame. The result is tender and saucy and pairs well over a bed of short-grained white rice. To add brightness to the plate, two sides of banchan, traditional Korean side dishes, accompany all rice bowls, making it enough to share. It's a dish celebrating two Los Angeles cultures coming together and Grand Central feels like a fitting location to experience it.

    Save some room for dessert?

    That's right. We're not done yet.

    A tiger tail (and more!) from The Donut Man

    A box with "The Donut Man" branding sits on a stone countertop: Nearby sit two golden brown and enticing donuts. One is round, and has been draped in an icing sugar coat. A syrupy mix of diced and spiced apples are oozing out the side. And then there's the tiger tail donut. It is shaped like a baton, and twisted so that the sweet brown cinnamon center is splitting out the side, creating a swirling stripe.
    Donuts are the right choice, no matter what time of day it is. You can also take these to go and enjoy later.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    We've been fans of The Donut Man since visiting their original location in Glendora. But no more do we need to make the long trip on the 210 Freeway in order to get our tiger tail fix and their signature seasonal fruit donut options. If you aren't familiar with it, the tiger tail is like an elongated cinnamon twist donut, roughly a foot-long, so it's perfect for sharing. Not to be outdone, the strawberry donut is a glazed donut cut open and then stuffed to the gills with strawberries until it resembles some kind of explosion. They're a little hard to bite into directly, so it's best to cut them up and share them with others who want to join in on the donut fun. When strawberries are not available, choose from donuts filled with diced apples, slices peaches.

    A scoop from McConnell's Ice Cream

    A close-up view of three waffle cones holding generous scoops of ice cream — a chocolate flavor, a berry flavor and a vanilla flavor — all lined up in a row, in a see-through plastic holder
    And this is why we suggested you bring a cooler. Purchase a scoop or a pint to go.
    (
    Courtesy of McConnell's Fine Ice Creams
    )

    You did it! You completed your food journey through Grand Central Market. Why not reward yourself with a scoop of ice cream from McConnell’s Ice Cream at one of the few places you can find this beloved brand in person, outside of its Santa Barbara homestead. There are favorites like coffee, vanilla bean and triple chocolate, but also flavor combos such as honey and cornbread. If you feel pretty full right now, maybe grab that scoop or pint to go and relish in the victory of everything you accomplished.

  • Ventura County Fire Department's new complex
    a room filled with thick smoke and a fire on the ceiling
    Flames, and smoke can be triggered by remote control at the new Ventura County Fire Department Life Fire Training Complex in Camarillo, to create simulated firefighting experiences.
    Topline:
    While the flames and smoke are real, the danger is not. This is the Ventura County Fire Department’s new Live Fire Training Complex. A firefighter is controlling the flames and smoke with what looks like a TV remote control.

    What is it? The $32 million project includes live fire training buildings, a dedicated ladder training prop, and other facilities designed to give firefighters hands-on experience.

    What's next? While the Ventura County Fire Department owns and operates the facility, the goal is for it to be used to train first responders from throughout the region. It’s already hosted firefighters from a number of other agencies in the county, as well as teams from neighboring counties.

    Read on ... for more on the new facility.

    A room on the second floor of a Camarillo building is quickly filling with smoke. From the far end of the room, flames start to shoot across the ceiling.

    While the flames and smoke are real, the danger is not.

    This is the Ventura County Fire Department’s new Live Fire Training Complex. A firefighter is controlling the flames and smoke with what looks like a TV remote control.

    The $32 million project includes live fire training buildings, a dedicated ladder training prop, and other facilities designed to give firefighters hands-on experience.

    "This complex has a 'Class A' combustible burn building, which we are standing in now," said Ventura County Fire Department Training Chief Casey Rosdaile. "The 'Class B' building is propane-fed. This building allows us to train in real fire conditions and real fire behavior. That building (the 'Class B' building) allows us to do a lot more of the operational steps. There's always a gap between the simulated thing and a real thing, and we're trying to limit that as much as possible. That way, when someone trains, they aren't going to be the real thing and say that it's nothing like they practiced."

    The buildings are made of concrete, so they won't be affected by the flames and smoke. The smoke kind that's used on movie shoots, so it doesn't leave clothing with the smoky smell like you get from a brush fire.

    He added that the new facilities can help train firefighters, as well as other first responders, on ways to deal with a number of emergencies.

    "These buildings can host anything from sheriff's operations to (simulated) structure fires, to search and rescue," said Rosdaile. "There are a million things you can do in here. You can train 50 to 60 firefighters at a time, so it really gives us a lot of flexibility."

    The two new buildings are just part of the fire department’s fire training complex. It covers 22 acres of land on the southeast side of Camarillo Airport. There are nearly 18,000 square feet of indoor training space, with 32 training rooms.

    The dedicated live fire training buildings give firefighters experience with scenarios that were often difficult and time-consuming to create.

    "We would light the materials, and let the fire conditions and environment build, to create a realistic training environment, and then send the folks in to extinguish it," said Ventura County Fire Chief Dustin Gardner. "Then, we would have to clean it all out, and reset it, and start again. We would get a couple of burns a day done. Now, we're getting multiple burns an hour."

    Gardner said it's a complex they've sought to create for years.

    "This facility allows us to close the gap between training and reality. This allows us to expose our firefighters to as realistic an environment as we can repetitively, and under safe conditions."

    Among the props at the facility is a vehicle chassis equipped with gas lines, which can be ignited, so firefighters can practice fighting those types of fires.

    "This is our vehicle prop, and it lets us simulate fire. We can push the fire to different parts of the vehicle, so we can set it in the interior, in the cab, the wheel well, as well as the engine compartment," said Ventura County Fire Department Quartermaster Jake Finley. "It creates a good learning environment, with teachable moments. You can see in the background some of the old vehicles (we used to burn salvaged vehicles), and it was a really intensive process. We couldn't repeat it as quickly."

    While the Ventura County Fire Department owns and operates the facility, the goal is for it to be used to train first responders from throughout the region. It’s already hosted firefighters from a number of other agencies in the county, as well as teams from neighboring counties.

  • Sponsored message
  • Iran war could have unexpected effect
    a person in a hat spreads fertilizer over a dirt field with a green field of trees in the background
    A worker spreads fertilizer after planting potatoes at Bluff View Farms on April 24 in West Jefferson, North Carolina. High fertilizer prices due to the war in Iran have hit farms already dealing with severe weather, tariffs and the high costs of fuel and labor.

    Topline:

    Before the war, around one-third of the world's fertilizer transported by sea passed through the Strait of Hormuz, according to UN Trade and Development. The waterway has become a shipping chokepoint in recent months.

    Why it matters: With the strait closed, fertilizer shipments from the Persian Gulf slumped and prices rose, affecting countries all around the world that import fertilizer. The war also created a global shortage of natural gas, a key component in nitrogen fertilizer manufacturing.

    What about US food prices? It caused a massive headache for U.S. farmers who were hit with higher fertilizer prices and limited availability just as they were deciding what to plant for the upcoming growing season.

    But the costs borne by farmers don't necessarily get passed on to consumers, and food system experts say they're unlikely to have a major impact on the retail prices of fruit and vegetables.

    Read on ... for more on the potential fertilizer shortage.

    When the war with Iran started, one of the top economic concerns globally was the slowdown of oil shipments. But there was another critical export that got stuck in the region when hostilities began: fertilizer.

    Before the war, around one-third of the world's fertilizer transported by sea passed through the Strait of Hormuz, according to UN Trade and Development. The waterway has become a shipping chokepoint in recent months.

    With the strait closed, fertilizer shipments from the Persian Gulf slumped and prices rose, affecting countries all around the world that import fertilizer. The war also created a global shortage of natural gas, a key component in nitrogen fertilizer manufacturing.

    It caused a massive headache for U.S. farmers who were hit with higher fertilizer prices and limited availability just as they were deciding what to plant for the upcoming growing season.

    But the costs borne by farmers don't necessarily get passed on to consumers, and food system experts say they're unlikely to have a major impact on the retail prices of fruit and vegetables.

    "Consumers are going to see higher food prices come September to January, once harvests start coming in, and the few months thereafter," said Chris Barrett, a professor of agricultural economics at Cornell University. "Very little of that is going to be directly attributable to fertilizer."

    That's because food inflation is generally driven by larger factors affecting multiple parts of the food supply chain, such as fewer workers and high fuel costs.

    US farmers are rethinking their plans

    About one-third of the fertilizer used by U.S. farmers is imported, according to The Fertilizer Institute, an industry trade group. TFI Vice President of Public Affairs Christopher Glen said little of that comes through the Strait of Hormuz.

    "But we get impacted in a big way because the fertilizer market is global," Glen said over email. "Even if those tons from the Mideast aren't coming to the US, they are still tons that have been removed from the market and need to be made up elsewhere. That's where the pressure comes from."

    An American Farm Bureau Federation survey released in April reported that 70% of respondents said they couldn't afford all the fertilizer they needed this season.

    Some farmers are more vulnerable to price swings than others. Producers of corn and wheat, which rely heavily on fertilizer, can spend around a third of their operating costs on fertilizer alone. Half of the farmers who responded to a survey released by the National Corn Growers Association in early April said they wouldn't apply the full amount of fertilizer to their corn crop this year, due largely to higher costs and limited availability.

    Because farmers often secure their fertilizer stores well before a growing season begins, some weren't seriously affected by the price swings created by the war in Iran. (Iran said it closed the Strait of Hormuz shortly after it was attacked by the U.S. and Israel at the end of February. U.S. corn growing season typically begins in April.) But they are worried about the future: corn growers who responded to the survey were twice as concerned about the 2027 corn crop as they were about this year's.

    This season, some farmers may opt to plant crops that require less nitrogen fertilizer than corn, such as soy beans, in response to rising costs.

    According to USDA data, farmers are expected to plant 95.3 million acres of corn this year, down from 98.8 million acres last year. But the total acreage of soybeans is predicted to rise to 85.4 million acres this year from 81.2 million acres last year.

    US grocery prices probably won't take a huge hit

    If higher fertilizer costs lead to smaller harvests, that could contribute to modest retail price hikes. A TD Economics analysis estimated that a 2-5% production shortfall in North America could grow food inflation by around 0.1-0.5 percentage points in 2027.

    Sponsor MessageBut experts say the costs of the fertilizer shortage will be largely shouldered by farmers.

    The amount a farmer spends on fertilizer is a small fraction of the total cost to grow food and get it to grocery store shelves. Just 12 cents of every dollar U.S. consumers spend on food goes to farms, while the rest is received by transportation companies, processors, wholesalers and grocery stores, according to the USDA. And the USDA's National Agricultural Statistics Service reported that U.S. farms spent around 7% of their budgets on fertilizer, lime and soil conditioners in 2024 (though farmers growing crops more reliant on fertilizer such as corn would spend more).

    Additionally, farmers don't have much bargaining power to negotiate with wholesalers for higher crop prices when their operating costs rise, according to Rob Vos, a senior research fellow at the International Food Policy Research Institute. "Those buyers will go to other farmers to try and get it cheaper," he said.

    But there are factors other than the fertilizer crunch that are more likely to cause food prices to jump. Barrett said the global food industry is facing a "really unpleasant layer cake" of pressures, from tariffs and extreme weather to higher prices on labor, fuel and fertilizer.

    "No one of those by itself is especially painful," he said. "But when you add them all up, they become quite painful together."

    In parts of Africa and Asia, the effects of the fertilizer shortage could be far worse. Jorge Moreira da Silva, Executive Director of the UN Office for Project Services, said in April that the reduction of shipments through the Strait of Hormuz may prove "very significant and severe" for poorer countries. Less-developed countries that rely heavily on fertilizer from the Persian Gulf include Sudan, Sri Lanka, Tanzania and Somalia.

    The fertilizer industry is recovering — and may adapt in the process

    Some fertilizer prices have begun to fall again in recent weeks, after the U.S. and Iran reached a deal to reopen the Strait of Hormuz last month.

    The Trump administration has also taken steps to lower fertilizer costs for American farmers. This week, Trump temporarily suspended "countervailing duties" on certain phosphate imports, which are added to some imported goods to cancel out subsidies provided by foreign governments.

    Still, it will be a while before the fertilizer sector returns to normal. Vos estimated that it could take weeks or months for fertilizer manufacturing plants to come back online and return to previous production levels. If high prices stick around, that could snarl the plans of U.S. farmers preparing to plant cool-season crops this autumn, he added.

    Barrett said the trouble with the fertilizer industry has also gotten farmers thinking about how they can protect themselves from these kinds of supply-chain disruptions in the future and looking for other ways to replenish their soil, such as manure, compost and cover crops.

    "Just like we're seeing more people interested in electric vehicles because the price of gasoline and diesel has gone up, you see more farmers interested in other ways of replenishing soil nutrients as the price of fertilizer has gone up," he said.

  • How America was born from more than a tea party
    a black and white drawing of old-timey crowds standing on a dock by a large ship
    An illustration of the Boston Tea Party, when colonists dumped British East India Company tea into the harbor on Dec. 16, 1773. Some accounts say this marked a pivotal moment when Americans started loving coffee. But one historian says Americans were drinking lots of coffee before then.

    Topline:

    Coffee was an important part of American culture from the start. And coffeehouses were essential, too — serving as hubs for brewing ideas of independence.

    Backstory: "The first documented example of a mortar and pestle used to grind coffee beans was on the Mayflower" in 1620, says historian Michelle Craig McDonald, the author of Coffee Nation: How One Commodity Transformed the Early United States.

    How it helped the Revolution: In the colonial era, coffeehouses were hotbeds for seditious thought — where people planned acts of revolution.

    "Coffeehouses are kind of famous for being places where people think and plot things," says Mark Pendergrast, author of Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World.

    Read on ... for more on the historical influence of coffee in the founding of the United States.

    A consequential act of defiance secured tea's place as perhaps the most iconic beverage of America's colonial era.

    The Boston Tea Party became an essential ingredient in the recipe for revolution in the following years.

    But tea wasn't the only hot beverage with a prominent role in America's fight for independence.

    Coffee was an important part of American culture from the start. And coffeehouses were essential, too — serving as hubs for brewing ideas of independence.

    As the United States celebrates 250 years, here's what to know about America's early history of coffee.

    Colonists were drinking coffee long before the United States existed

    Europeans brought coffee with them when they came to America.

    "The first documented example of a mortar and pestle used to grind coffee beans was on the Mayflower" in 1620, says historian Michelle Craig McDonald, the author of Coffee Nation: How One Commodity Transformed the Early United States.

    "The fact that coffee was present so early is not surprising if you think about it," McDonald says. "A number of those who were on the Mayflower came to North America from Amsterdam, which was a major coffee trading center in Western Europe by the 17th century."

    The first coffeehouse in the colonies opened in 1676 in Boston, a century before the U.S. declared independence, she says. Some taverns sold coffee even earlier.

    The Boston Tea Party probably wasn't the dramatic turning point toward coffee that some claim

    On the night of Dec. 16, 1773, disgruntled colonists boarded three ships moored in Boston Harbor and threw overboard more than 92,000 pounds of tea owned by the British East India Company.

    Tensions had been building between the Crown and the colonies over the previous decade, as Britain tried to levy taxes on its colonies to recoup war debts.

    The Boston Tea Party protest was targeted at the British government's passing of the Tea Act in 1773, which granted the East India Company a monopoly over tea sales in the colonies. While the British had removed some unpopular taxes in the preceding years, they left tea taxes in place. Colonial merchants were especially upset that the act allowed the East India Company to undercut their tea business.

    To build solidarity for their cause of sovereignty, some patriots called on colonialists to swear off tea in favor of coffee. It's why many histories point to the Boston Tea Party as a turning point when Americans switched from mostly drinking tea to mostly coffee. The anti-tea sentiment was immortalized in a founding father's now-famous letter.

    In July 1774, John Adams (before he became the second U.S. president) wrote to his wife Abigail, recounting an incident during his travels. After a long day, he asked the proprietor of the house where he was lodging for a cup of tea, provided it was smuggled and free of British taxes.

    " 'No sir, said she, we have renounced all Tea in this Place. I cant make Tea, but I'le make you Coffee.' Accordingly I have drank Coffee every Afternoon since, and have borne it very well. Tea must be universally renounced. I must be weaned, and the sooner, the better," Adams wrote.

    Despite John Adams claiming a newfound patriotic duty to appreciate coffee, McDonald says colonists had been drinking lots of coffee all along.

    She studied advertisements from the 1760s and '70s to estimate how many shops sold coffee versus tea. Even before the Boston Tea Party, she says, "coffee is definitely more broadly available than tea is."

    A big reason? It was cheaper. "Its price again per pound is significantly less, which tells you about its availability, its accessibility to drinkers."

    Historians say it's hard to definitively compare tea with coffee consumption, though, as official records from before America gained independence were inconsistent.

    And smuggling was rampant, making official records even less reliable.

    "There is a vast amount of smuggling," says Joyce Chaplin, a professor of early American history at Harvard University. "So they're not paying formal duties on tea that they get from the Dutch. They're probably not paying formal duties on coffee from the French Caribbean."

    And Chaplin notes that people who loudly proclaimed a new appreciation for coffee over tea weren't always doing what they said. It could have been political pandering. "I do not drink tea that comes via the East India Company," she posits someone of the era saying. "But, you know, other sources are fine. Ditto for the coffee."

    Coffeehouses were a hub for revolutionary ideas 

    In the colonial era, coffeehouses were hotbeds for seditious thought — where people planned acts of revolution.

    "Coffeehouses are kind of famous for being places where people think and plot things," says Mark Pendergrast, author of Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World.

    A coffeehouse called the Green Dragon served as one of the locations for planning the Boston Tea Party. Years earlier, the Old London Coffeehouse in Philadelphia was a meeting place for strategizing responses to another British tax, the Stamp Act of 1765.

    In Britain, coffeehouses were nicknamed "penny universities," Pendergrast says: "because for a penny you could go and learn a whole lot by sitting around in a coffeehouse and discussing everything." The same attitude traveled across the Atlantic.

    Early American coffeehouses would commonly have city business directories, libraries of newspapers and currency exchange information. People could get maritime insurance there or buy things at auction.

    "There's a reason why coffeehouses become places of colonial protest … in the 1760s, in the 1770s, and it's because it is the place where traders and merchants tended to gather," historian McDonald says. "That's where they heard about the economics of the day."

    Taverns were more likely than coffeehouses to have rooms for rent and stables for travelers' horses. They were also more likely to have food.

    Interestingly enough, coffeehouses could serve alcohol and taverns could serve coffee.

    But the vibes at each were different. While women and men could "riotously drink together" in taverns, coffeehouses often didn't allow women, according to Chaplin of Harvard.

    "The sense was the coffeehouse was the place where you had a clear head — to argue about politics, to find out what was going on in the business world, to cut a business deal," she says. "Whereas taverns were places where, in a sense, you refueled."

    Still, she says, the lines between the two "weren't completely clear."

    The cost of America's revolutionary drink 

    Coffee (and tea for that matter) was part of a growing globalization of trade around this time.

    Much of the coffee in the colonies was grown in the Caribbean, while tea came from China.

    Supply was up and coffee was easier than ever to drink. "Trade and frankly, imperialism, are making it possible for … colonial products to be produced and transferred to other parts of the world in greater and greater quantities," says Chaplin.

    As a result, by the time of the American Revolution, both coffee and tea were in reach for many common people. "They're both becoming affordable luxuries," Chaplin says.

    Fancy coffee and tea paraphernalia were also part of this increasingly global market. Middle and upper-class people would have wanted special implements for drinking these beverages and a place to drink it. That meant they needed wood for coffee tables, silver for coffeepots, and porcelain for teapots.

    "These two beverages are encouraging people to consume all kinds of new stuff," says Chaplin. "The mahogany that comes out of the Caribbean, the china coming out of China, silver that is mined principally in South and Central America and processed in a lot of the parts of the world."

    There's a dark side to coffee's history, too. The plantations that supplied the crop ran on the labor of enslaved people. By 1790, half of the world's coffee was being grown in the French colony of Saint-Domingue, in what is today Haiti, Pendergrast says, where slaves were routinely mistreated, raped and murdered.

    The Declaration of Independence, signed in 1776, is infamous for a contradiction. It proclaimed that "all men are created equal," but failed to acknowledge the hundreds of thousands of enslaved people living in America at the time.

    Coffee carried a similar contradiction. The beverage that fueled conversations that inspired America's fight for independence — centered on the ideals of life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness — depended on enslavement.

    "Coffee had this paradoxical effect, that it did promote revolutionary thought," Pendergrast says. "But it was also grown by slaves."

  • Weary Boyle Heights residents take on testing
    A man with curly hair inspects water samples while wearing a respiratory mask.
    Emmanuel Carrera Ruedas gathers water samples from the L.A. River on Wednesday, July 1.

    Topline:

    Since the Lineage fire ignited June 17 in Boyle Heights, residents, environmental advocates and researchers have taken it upon themselves to find out what’s in the air and water.

    Why it matters: They’ve launched their own sampling efforts, seeking answers about what people have been breathing and contaminants that may have entered the L.A. River.

    Why now: The community-led testing comes as residents have reported eye irritation, nausea and headaches while questioning whether the government has done enough to capture the fire’s environmental and public health impacts.

    The backstory: Those concerns are especially alarming in Boyle Heights, East L.A. and neighboring Southeast L.A. communities, where neighbors have long faced disproportionate pollution burdens.

    Read on... for more on how residents are taking matters into their own hands.

    Wearing gloves and a KN95 mask, Emmanuel Carrera Ruedas hunkered down near a storm drain, just steps away from the smoldering Lineage warehouse fire, as he filmed himself pointing to what he described as insulation and foam flowing into the drain.

    “The thing about this water is that it all gets dumped straight into the L.A. River,” Carrera Ruedas, of Cudahy, told his Instagram followers in a June 22 reel.

    In the past two weeks, Carrera Ruedas has spent evenings gathering water samples outside Lineage and from the L.A. River as he and other community scientists are partnering with experts from UCLA and Columbia University to learn what’s in the runoff. Samples will soon be sent to a lab in New York.

    “For far too long, the river has just been a drainage, a dumping site for companies,” said Carrera Ruedas, 27, who often encounters toads, birds and fish inhabiting its ecosystem.

    “There is life in there,” he told Boyle Heights Beat. “We’re all in proximity to the river, and that’s kind of the vein that runs through the city that really connects us all.”

    Community-led testing

    Since the Lineage fire ignited June 17 in Boyle Heights, residents, environmental advocates and researchers have taken it upon themselves to find out what’s in the air and water. They’ve launched their own sampling efforts, seeking answers about what people have been breathing and contaminants that may have entered the L.A. River.

    The community-led testing comes as residents have reported eye irritation, nausea and headaches while questioning whether the government has done enough to capture the fire’s environmental and public health impacts.

    Those concerns are especially alarming in Boyle Heights, East L.A. and neighboring Southeast L.A. communities, where neighbors have long faced disproportionate pollution burdens.

    Crews clean up debris from a burned building.
    Crews navigate around piles of debris and puddles of water on the eastern edge of the Lineage warehouse as they begin cleanup efforts on June 25, 2026.
    (
    Andrew Lopez
    /
    Boyle Heights Beat
    )

    An estimated 31,700 workers, about 81% of whom are Latino, live in the county and city zones where a smoke advisory was issued, according to new data from the UCLA Latino Policy & Politics Institute. They work in health care, manufacturing and food service industries. About half of the workers earn $3,333 or less a month, below L.A. County’s “very low income” threshold.

    The area also experiences diesel pollution levels three times the county average, as well as higher rates of asthma and cardiovascular disease-related emergency department visits, according to UCLA. Nearly 10,000 households in the area lack air conditioning.

    “This is not only an air quality emergency but also a worker and environmental justice issue,” UCLA said.

    Behind the push for environmental justice

    For years, East Yard Communities for Environmental Justice has shed light on how Latinos on the Eastside often bear the brunt of the region’s pollution and climate disasters, such as the East L.A. oil spill in late May that dumped nearly 25,000 gallons of crude oil onto streets and into the L.A. River. For the organization, “We are just trying to breathe” is a common phrase.

    “Something I’ve told many people over a long period of time is, ‘We’re not polar bears. We’re not whales.’ Nobody is coming to save us. We have to step up and defend ourselves,” said mark! Lopez with East Yard Communities for Environmental Justice.

    A woman wearing a respiratory mask outside affixes one to a boy.
    Antonia Castillo, 73, helps her grandson Aiden Velez put on a mask near their Boyle Heights home.
    (
    Andrew Lopez
    /
    Boyle Heights Beat
    )

    East Yard members opted to take air samples themselves, dissatisfied with the South Coast Air Quality Management District’s assessment of the fire’s air-quality impacts. They placed sorbent tubes, which Lopez described as passive air monitors, outside nearby homes for about seven days. Soon, they’ll send the findings to a Columbia University lab with the help of UC Irvine.

    What officials have done so far

    South Coast AQMD said it conducted “mobile monitoring” during the first two days of the fire that found “significantly elevated concentrations” of particulate matter. The agency then deployed particulate matter monitors at Eastman Avenue Elementary and Robert Louis Stevenson Middle School that provide “near-real time exposure information.” AQMD noted that the L.A. Fire Department and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency conducted their own monitoring, while third-party contractor Onterris has continued monitoring during the cleanup phase.

    AQMD also observed smoke impacts throughout the region, issuing a particle pollution advisory in English and Spanish that remained in effect through June 24.

    What's next and lingering questions

    Meanwhile, Lopez said more sampling is necessary, and he questioned the effectiveness of efforts by Lineage, AQMD and LAFD. He and other advocates criticized public statements from officials, including Mayor Karen Bass’ assurances that “the air is not dangerous,” even as residents were reporting feeling sick. He also took aim at LAFD Chief Jaime Moore’s statements that ammonia was not toxic to individuals unless they had respiratory issues or came in direct contact with it. East Yard also called for evacuations in the area.

    “It feels like at the city and county level they don’t currently have the capacity to really handle this situation,” Lopez added. “I think it really requires state and federal intervention to make sure that the cleanup and restoration isn’t mismanaged.”

    Yoshira “Yoshi” Ornelas Van Horne, an exposure scientist and assistant professor with the UCLA Fielding School’s Department of Environmental Health Sciences, said the Lineage fire is exposing how little is done to “respond to public health emergencies and disasters” in communities like Boyle Heights and East L.A., areas “that have so often been referred to as environmental injustice communities.”

    Residents and community organizations like East Yard, Ornelas Van Horne said, “are always the ones having to respond.”

    “They’re relying on each other. They’re relying on their networks and their organizing power to be able to do that on the ground sampling.”

    Ornelas Van Horne reached out to colleagues at Columbia’s Multi-Element Trace Analysis Laboratory in New York after she learned of the sampling taking place and of community concerns about the runoff making its way down to the L.A. River.

    Those samples will be analyzed for heavy metals like cadmium, lead and arsenic, she said.

    The L.A. County Public Works Department, according to the Los Angeles Times, deployed three containment booms on the L.A. River and continued to monitor the water as it made its way to the ocean.

    Carrera Ruedas began collecting water samples on the third day of the fire. He said he took the first sample from the L.A. River, about 100 meters from the spout where it spilled out. The second was taken from outside Lineage. He has amassed dozens of samples since then.

    Cudahy sits alongside the lower L.A. River, and after the fire, Carrera Ruedas recalled a “heavy stench that affected people in our community.” The trash he saw in the river was the foam and insulation that came from Lineage, he said.

    “It really pissed me off, just to see all this trash go in there and nobody doing anything about it,” said Carrera Ruedas, who also serves as the parks and environmental justice commissioner for Cudahy.

    The L.A. River, Carrera Ruedas said, is “part of our ecosystem.”

    “This is not just affecting me. This affects everybody else around me. This affects people who love the beach, people who just want our water systems clean,” he said.