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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • What do the late federal funds mean for LA?
    Men wearing white and black jersey's run on a green field below bright stadium lights.
    The Gold Cup Group A match between Mexico and Dominican Republic at SoFi Stadium on June 14, 2025.

    Topline:

    The federal government hasn't yet awarded hundreds of millions of dollars that it promised for security for the World Cup, less than four months before the tournament kicks off in cities across the U.S. including Los Angeles.

    What are host cities saying? Officials in some host cities warned at a Congressional hearing last week that if those funds aren't released soon it could lead them to massively scale back or cancel their events for fans this summer – but what the delay means for L.A. is less clear.

    What about LA? A spokesperson for the Los Angeles World Cup 2026 Host Committee – the group responsible for putting on the fan programs here – declined to comment on concerns over federal funds, despite requests via email, text and phone last week.

    Read on…for comments from local officials in Los Angeles and Inglewood.

    The federal government hasn't yet awarded hundreds of millions of dollars that it promised for security for the World Cup, less than four months before the tournament kicks off in cities across the U.S. including Los Angeles.

    Officials in some host cities warned at a Congressional hearing last week that if those funds aren't released soon it could lead them to massively scale back or cancel their events for fans this summer – but what the delay means for L.A. is less clear.

    Los Angeles is hosting eight matches at SoFi Stadium in Inglewood, a five-day "fan festival" at L.A. Memorial Coliseum and official "fan zones" across the county during the 39-day tournament.

    A spokesperson for the Los Angeles World Cup 2026 Host Committee – the group responsible for putting on the fan programs here – declined to comment on concerns over federal funds, despite requests via email, text and phone last week.

    LAist asked the Los Angeles host committee how much federal funding it was expecting to receive for security, but did not receive a response. Homeland Security Committee chair Rep. Andrew Garbarino said that Miami, which is hosting seven matches and a 23-day fan festival, is expecting around $70 million in federal funding.

    "Without receiving this money, it could be catastrophic for our planning and coordination," Raymond Martinez, the Chief Operating Officer of Miami's host committee, told a Congressional Homeland Security committee last week.

    Why is $625 million for World Cup security delayed?

    President Donald Trump allocated $625 million dollars to World Cup security in his “One, Big, Beautiful Bill” last year. FEMA, the Federal Emergency Management Agency, is responsible for allocating that money to the 11 host city committees in the U.S., and those funds were supposed to be awarded by the end of January, according to details provided by FEMA's for grant applicants. But they're now more than a month late.

    Homeland Security Secretary Kristi Noem blamed the ongoing government shutdown of her department.

    “FEMA was in the final stages of reviewing applications to ensure proper oversight when Democrats shut down the government putting significant portions of the FEMA staff on administrative leave," she said in a statement. "The longer DHS goes without funding, the less prepared our nation will be for threats at the FIFA World Cup."

    Democrat Nellie Pou of New Jersey shot back at Secretary Noem on X, pointing out that FEMA's website says it planned to award the funds by the end of January.

    "World Cup security funding was enacted into law last summer and these matches have been scheduled for years," Pou wrote. "It’s time for DHS to do its job."

    Beyond the federal dollars for security surrounding the tournament, the state of California has also approved $10 million for security costs for the World Cup in Los Angeles and the Bay Area.

    How the World Cup works in L.A.

    Los Angeles is the host city of the World Cup matches and celebrations coming to the region this summer, but the city of L.A. is not paying for or planning the mega-event. That planning is up to the non-profit Los Angeles Sports & Entertainment Commission, which is leading the local host committee and coordinating with FIFA and other local entities.

    Federal security funds will be awarded to the California Governor's Office of Emergency Services, and then the host committee will disburse those funds to local agencies that provide security for the World Cup and fan celebrations.

    Most of the federal funding for the 11 host cities will go toward overtime costs, according to FEMA, and that money will be paid out as reimbursements.

    The city of L.A. is currently negotiating an agreement with that committee on what city services, such as police, it might provide, according to multiple city officials.

    The City Administrative Officer is negotiating that deal. An official in the CAO’s office told LAist that the host committee expects that federal funds will cover all those costs.

    A spokesperson for the Los Angeles Police Department did not respond to questions from LAist on how LAPD is coordinating with other law enforcement agencies ahead of the World Cup.

    L.A. and Inglewood officials say they're not concerned

    Local officials told LAist last week that they were not concerned that the delay in federal funds would derail World Cup plans in Los Angeles.

    Inglewood Mayor James Butts said that the city was expecting to receive payments from FIFA directly for services, as well as some of the federal security money awarded by FEMA.

    " We're not concerned at all," he said in an interview. "The federal government has always come through on FEMA related allocations."

    Paul Krekorian, who leads the City of Los Angeles's Office of Major Events, said he did not think that delayed federal funds would cause organizers to cancel the planned Fan Festival.

    "We have events at the Coliseum all the time, and this is a few days of ticketed events at the Coliseum," he told LAist. "I expect that if we have to provide extra services that we will be reimbursed for those, but it's not a big enough aberration from things that we do all the time that would cause me to be concerned that if we don't have federal support, we have to cancel."

    Team U.S.A.'s opening match will take place in Los Angeles on June 12. The fan festival will kick off the same day as the tournament, June 11.

  • A vote is scheduled for Thursday
    An underground train station with large crowds entering and exiting a train.
    Passengers wait to board a Metro train.

    Topline:

    For decades, the Los Angeles Metro Board has operated without a member of the public who regularly rides trains and buses among its members. Now, calls to change that are growing. Tomorrow, the Metro Board is set to vote on what the future make-up of the governing body should look like.

    Background: In light of the L.A. County voter-approved Measure G, which expands the Board of Supervisors and adds an elected county-level executive, the L.A. Metro Board has been considering how to reconfigure its make-up. Agency staff have recommended maintaining the size and geographic split of the governing body and expanding the pool of people who can be appointed to serve.

    Hahn’s motion: While the recommendations would theoretically allow for a transit rider to be appointed to the board, there would be no guarantee. A separate motion from L.A. County Supervisor Janice Hahn would expand the Metro Board to include a dedicated voter seat. Both items, and a motion that competes with staff’s recommendation, are scheduled for a vote tomorrow.

    Read on … for more information about the composition of Metro’s Board and the diverging perspectives on adding a transit rider seat.

    For decades, the Los Angeles Metro Board, which runs the countywide public transit system that sees more than 1 million daily riders, has operated without a member of the public who regularly rides trains and buses among its members.

    Now, calls to change that are growing. On Thursday, the Metro Board is set to vote on what the future make-up of the governing body should look like, and there are several options on the table:

    Sound complicated? It is. Let’s break it down:

    The background

    Currently, there are 13 voting members of the Metro Board: the five L.A. County Supervisors, the mayor of L.A. and her three appointees, and four regional representatives from across the county chosen by a selection committee.

    There’s no requirement that they have transit expertise or public ridership experience.

    At the beginning of this year, the Metro Board formed a committee that convened monthly to discuss how the Metro Board could be reformatted in light of Measure G. That’s the measure L.A. County voters passed in 2024, which expands the Board of Supervisors from five to nine members by 2032 and adds an elected countywide executive.

    The make-up of the Metro Board is codified in the state’s public utilities code, so any proposed changes approved on Thursday will need another vote by legislators in Sacramento before they go into effect.

    Metro staff’s recommendation and Bass’ competing motion

    Based on feedback from committee deliberations, public input and a review of peer agencies across the country, Metro officials in June proposed maintaining the size and geographic split of the Board. 

    Under that proposal, they also recommended expanding the pool of people who could serve on the Metro Board to include riders and experts in relevant subjects, like engineering or finance. If ultimately approved, these members could be chosen by the L.A. County Board of Supervisors, the mayor of L.A. or the city selection committee.

    In its recommendation, Metro officials notably shied away from adding a seat to the board, saying an extra person would impose “administrative and financial burdens on the agency.”

    According to the rules for the Board, members are paid $150 per day they attend “to the business” of Metro up to $600 per month.

    Metro’s media relations office did not answer a request for more information on what additional administrative and financial burdens the addition of a board member would impose on the agency.

    A competing motion introduced by Bass would not allow the L.A. County Board of Supervisors or the committee that selects the four regional representatives to appoint a transit rider or subject matter expert.

    Instead, it would designate one of the mayor’s four seats for a for a transit advocate or rider, and it would add a 14th voting member of the board who would also be a rider.

    Five women stand and pose for the camera. They are the current L.A. County Supervisors. The woman on the left most side is wearing a blue dress. To her right is a woman wearing a navy blazer with red accents. The woman in the middle holds a gavel and is wearing a dark blue blouse and skirt. On her right, the woman is wearing a long yellow blazer with a white blouse underneath a black skirt. On the right most side, a woman is wearing a dark blue suit.
    Currently, all five of the L.A. County Supervisors are guaranteed a spot on the L.A. Metro Board.
    (
    Courtesy L.A. County Board of Supervisors
    )

    A guaranteed seat for a transit rider versus an optional seat

    Hahn’s motion does not directly conflict with staff’s recommendation, and similar to Bass’ motion, would add a transit rider to the Metro Board.

    Hahn said a dedicated seat for a transit rider would be more powerful than an appointed one.

    “I worry that if [the rider] was just an appointed position by an elected official … [the rider] would feel loyalty to the appointing elected official as opposed to loyalty to their fellow riders,” she said in an interview with LAist.

    She said it’s clear that there’s a community desire for a guaranteed rider seat on the Board.

    During a public outreach period between February and May, Metro gathered input from 1,300 people. The clearest and most consistent piece of feedback was that the public wants to see a “formal rider voice on the Metro Board,” according to a Metro report. 

    While the staff recommendation to expand who can sit on the Metro Board would theoretically allow for the appointment of a transit rider, if not several transit riders, some officials have questioned whether elected officials would voluntarily cede political power to a member of the public if that option moves forward.

    L.A. County Supervisor Lindsey Horvath characterized a future under Metro staff’s recommendation as a “political game of chicken.”

    “ Who's going to take the responsibility and give up the power that they hold?” Horvath told LAist.

    Why don’t the Metro Board members … just ride transit themselves? 

    Michael Schneider, the head of the influential transportation advocacy group Streets for All, warned that reserving a seat for a transit rider on the Metro Board could backfire.

    He said adding a seat for a rider, or any interest group, risks creating a situation where Metro Board members defer leadership to the representative.

    “The rider experience should be top of mind for all board members,” Schneider said. “If there’s a specific seat for a rider, then board members may decide to not pay as much attention to the rider experience.”

    Schneider argues Metro Board members should all be mandated to use Metro at least once a week. It’s a metric that could be tracked using TAP cards, he suggested.

    “It’s hard to improve a system that you don’t have experience with,” Schneider said. “Experience is not sitting in a chair in a boardroom. It’s on a train or on a bus or using Metro bike share.”

    A huge multi-lane freeway full of cars is split down the middle by a Metro train and its tracks.
    A large part of the L.A. Metro Board's responsibility is overseeing L.A. County's public transit system.
    (
    David McNew
    /
    Getty Images North America
    )

    Transit rider appointment just one part of broader conversation 

    The debate over a dedicated transit rider on the Metro Board is just one of several thorny questions, some politically charged, that officials are weighing as they decide what the Metro Board should look like.

    Here’s what else will likely be discussed on the topic on Thursday:

    • How many seats should the city of L.A. have on Metro’s Board? Under state law, if the city’s population falls below 35% of L.A. County’s entire population, then one of the city’s  four seats would be transferred to the other 87 cities. Some, including Horvath and John Fasana, a former mayor of Duarte and previously a longtime Metro Board member, have urged that the threshold be increased to 43.75%. 
    • Should the county executive have a dedicated seat on the Metro Board? With the number of county-level seats remaining at five despite an upcoming L.A. County Board of Supervisors expansion to nine seats, some have argued that parts of the county could be underrepresented without additional representation.

    Thursday's Metro Board meeting

    Metro's Board meeting starts at 10 a.m. Thursday.

    • If you're attending in person, head to the 3rd floor of Metro's HQ. The address is One Gateway Plaza, Los Angeles.
    • You can also watch online here.
    • If you want to listen by phone, dial (888) 978-8818 and enter one of the following access code when prompted: 5647249# (English) or 7292892# (Spanish).
    • You can provide comment IRL, by phone or send written comment prior to the meeting. More instructions can be found here.

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  • Flies and other pests inundate warehouse area
    Workers in reflective vests hold tools near a mass of debris.
    The cleanup effort at the burned warehouse in Boyle Heights is a huge undertaking. Workers are seen here on June 30.

    Topline:

    Flies, rodents and other pests have been a persistent problem in Boyle Heights and nearby communities as millions of tons of food rot in a nearby burned-out warehouse. It’s gotten bad enough that L.A. Mayor Karen Bass is asking for action from the L.A. County Department of Public Health.

    What Bass said: In a letter to county Public Health Director Barbara Ferrer, Bass said she’s “concerned with County DPH’s pace in addressing this disaster” and the risks it posed to health and quality of life. “Possibly the worst manifestation of these risks is the severe infestation of flies in Boyle Heights and neighboring communities,” she wrote today.

    The pest control measures so far: Bass’ letter says the county took its first steps to hold Lineage accountable for a fly infestation on July 17, ordering Lineage to remove flies and mosquitoes from the warehouse, though her letter noted, “the County’s report only directs Lineage to eliminate flies from Lineage’s own property.” She said the county also needs to help control flies in adjacent communities.

    What the county has said: A spokesperson for the county Department of Public Health told LAist on July 17 that it had itself directed the city and Lineage to develop and implement a vector and insect control plan.

    Read on ... to learn what schools might do when classes begin in August.

    Flies, rodents and other pests have been a persistent problem in Boyle Heights and nearby communities as millions of pounds of food rot in a nearby burned-out warehouse. It’s gotten bad enough that L.A. Mayor Karen Bass is asking for action from the L.A. County Department of Public Health.

    In a letter sent Tuesday to county Public Health Director Barbara Ferrer, Bass said she’s “concerned with County DPH’s pace in addressing this disaster” and the risks it posed to health and quality of life.

    “Possibly the worst manifestation of these risks is the severe infestation of flies in Boyle Heights and neighboring communities,” Bass wrote.

    LAist has asked the Department of Public Health for comment and will update this article when they respond.

    The back-and-forth between jurisdictions

    Bass wrote that the city of L.A., which does not have its own health department, is largely dependent on L.A. County for control of potentially disease-carrying vectors. The city has said elsewhere that its Sanitation Department did set about 250 rat traps in surrounding areas.

    Bass’ letter says the county took its first steps to hold warehouse operator Lineage accountable for a fly infestation on July 17, ordering the company to remove flies and mosquitoes from the property.

    “Although I appreciate that County DPH has taken this first step, the County’s report only directs Lineage to eliminate flies from Lineage’s own property,” Bass’ letter to Ferrer states.

    Bass urged the county to compel Lineage to address pests at neighboring properties “with aggressive measures to eliminate the flies and any other vectors.”

    As for L.A. County’s Department of Public Health, a spokesperson told LAist on July 17 that it had itself directed the city and Lineage to address the pest situation.

    “Los Angeles County Department of Public Health requested that both Lineage Logistics and the City of Los Angeles develop and implement a vector/insect control plan,” the statement reads.

    Lineage’s part

    According to Councilmember Ysabel Jurado, who represents Boyle Heights on the L.A. City Council and met with Lineage representatives on Monday, an inspector contracted by the company confirmed that the rotting food at the warehouse is serving as a breeding ground for flies. The infestation won’t go away without addressing the root cause, Jurado reported the contractor as saying.

    “Removing waste, adding odor-control equipment, and conducting a pest inspection are important,” Jurado said in a statement. “But residents are asking a more fundamental question: Are conditions actually improving? They deserve evidence, timelines and accountability — not just a list of activities.”

    Lineage has not yet presented its pest control plan to the public.

    A ticking clock

    The first day of instruction for L.A. Unified schools is Aug. 12, three days before the city’s current deadline to clear the warehouse — a deadline Lineage does not appear to be on track to meet.

    That’s led many teachers and parents to raise the alarm about smells and pests that may very well still be around when school starts. An LAUSD spokesperson told Boyle Heights Beat that it is prepared to temporarily relocate nearby schools, as they did with summer programs during the warehouse fire.

    Lineage meets deadline at last minute

    Meanwhile, Lineage also faced a deadline of Tuesday to present a plan to air quality officials on how to address smells of spoiled food, which have been reported from miles away. A South Coast Air Quality Management District spokesperson said that the agency received a response from Lineage at 5 p.m. and is evaluating it.

  • LAHSA hasn’t finished any internal audits in years
    A woman with medium skin tone with short curly light brown hair wearing black-rimmed glasses and a black jacket with the seal of Los Angeles stands behind a podium speaking into a microphone.
    L.A. Mayor Karen Bass speaks at a news conference before LAHSA's annual homeless count in 2025. Next to her are LAHSA's then-CEO Va Lecia Adams Kellum and LAHSA's then-Chair Wendy Greuel (far right).

    Topline:

    L.A.’s homeless services agency has not completed any internal audits in years — and one that was started two years ago is still incomplete because management is taking months to provide responses, officials said Monday.

    Details: The delayed audit has been looking into why the L.A. Homeless Services Authority, known as LAHSA, failed to spend $7 million in federal dollars it was granted to house and serve people in need. The roughly six-page audit report hasn’t been released because it’s missing LAHSA management responses that were requested over two months ago, officials said.

    Why it matters: Internal audits are considered critically important to protecting taxpayer dollars at every level of government. L.A. County auditors, for example, issued about 100 reports in a recent fiscal year.

    Not the first rodeo: The audit is examining a repeat problem. A previous audit in January 2022 found LAHSA had left $3.5 million in federal grants on the table by not using them.

    L.A.’s homeless services agency has not completed any internal audits in years — and one that was started two years ago is still incomplete because management is taking months to provide responses, officials said Monday.

    The delayed audit has been looking into why the L.A. Homeless Services Authority, known as LAHSA, failed to spend $7 million in federal dollars it was granted to house and serve people in need. The roughly six-page audit report hasn’t been released because it’s missing LAHSA management responses that were requested over two months ago, officials said.

    Internal audits are considered critically important to protecting taxpayer dollars at every level of government. L.A. County auditors, for example, issued about 100 reports in a recent fiscal year.

    “ We haven’t gotten anything,” said Erum Shahnawaz, LAHSA’s chief internal auditor, referring to the lack of response from LAHSA management at a meeting of the agency’s audit committee on Monday.

    “That’s the only thing that's holding us from issuing the final report,” Shahnawaz said of the underspending audit.

    That audit is examining a repeat problem. A previous, external audit in January 2022 found LAHSA had left $3.5 million in federal grants on the table by not using them.

    Shahnawaz flagged management’s delays to the LAHSA Commissioner Justin Szlasa, Szlasa said. He chairs the commission’s audit committee, and has repeatedly called out LAHSA executives’ delays in providing information about taxpayer spending over the past year.

    “ I've been trying to intervene and use whatever I can to try to help provide support,” said Szlasa as he described his attempts to get the auditor the answers needed to complete the report.

    Szlasa was appointed to the commission by L.A. County Supervisor Kathryn Barger.

     “It shouldn't take us two months to receive a…management response to an internal audit,” Szlasa said at Monday’s meeting. He said the industry standard for internal audits is eight or nine weeks from start to finish. That compares to the two years — and counting — for LAHSA’s federal underspend audit.

    “We haven't had a single internal audit completed here in the last couple of years, which is nuts,” Szlasa added. He called for internal audits to happen much more frequently.

    Long delays to LAHSA audits also are not new. In November 2024, the county issued a widely-seen audit that included findings that LAHSA was failing to complete internal audits.

    Half of LAHSA’s governing commission is appointed by L.A. Mayor Karen Bass and half appointed by each of the five county supervisors. Bass is also the only elected official on the commission. She served on the audit committee for several months last fall. Records show she was absent for all of the meetings during that time.

    Janine Lim, LAHSA’s deputy chief financial officer, said management’s responses to the audit on underspending haven’t been provided yet because LAHSA leadership did not have clearly defined roles for who is supposed to coordinate responses to internal audits.

    “ We need to work on clarifying that role internally,” Lim said.

     “The last two months have been probably some of the most stress-filled two months that we've had at LAHSA,” said Paul Rubenstein, chief of staff to LAHSA CEO Gita O’Neil, pointing to mass layoffs.

    Szlasa said there’s not that much in the audit for management to respond to.

    “It's like, six pages or less,” he said.

    Szlasa said  another option is to “just say we've asked management for responses and we're awaiting management response. We can publish the results.”

    In response, Shahnawaz said that if management doesn't have an updated timeline for a response, then she’ll go ahead and issue the report without the response.

    Once they floated that idea, Lim committed to providing the responses by next Tuesday.

    LAHSA’s leadership has downsized the internal audit team — dropping from a staff of three to just one in the agency’s proposed budget up for approval Friday.

    Delays in getting access to financial records

    The delayed responses from management are not the only thing that’s been slowing down audits, Szlasa said at the meeting.

    LAHSA policy, approved by its governing commission, says internal auditors are “ authorized to access all organizational records, personnel, and systems necessary for conducting audits,” he said.

    But the auditor has faced challenges in actually getting that access, Szlasa said — including delays in being allowed to view LAHSA’s databases that show contracts and financial payments.

     ”We finally were granted access, but it wasn't, it wasn't easy, it wasn't immediate. It was slow,” Szlasa said.

    Many failed outside audits

    The delays on the internal audit come even after LAHSA failed multiple external audits in recent years, which have found the agency — overseen by city and county elected officials — has neglected to properly track billions of dollars in spending.

    Largely in response to earlier audits, L.A. County supervisors pulled funding from LAHSA and are having the county instead oversee it directly. L.A.’s mayor and City Council have continued to have LAHSA manage the city’s homeless spending while the council delays plans to start studying a possible plan to transition away city tax dollars.

    Signatures under scrutiny

    LAHSA is also in the midst of a different internal audit — expected to finish in late August or early September — examining whether top officials followed requirements when signing contracts and letting others sign. It was launched in the wake of LAist reporting that found LAHSA’s then-CEO Va Lecia Adams Kellum’s signature finalized a $2.1 million contract with her husband’s employer.

    How to reach me

    If you have a tip, you can reach me on Signal. My username is ngerda.47.

    LAist also discovered Adams Kellum’s signature, as LAHSA’s CEO at the time, finalized a quarter-million-dollar contract between LAHSA and a longtime service provider she led up until two months earlier.

    That contract was signed so soon after she left the service provider — St. Joseph Center — that the contract paperwork still listed her as one of St. Joseph Center’s points of contact and authorized signers.

    She is currently under a state ethics investigation into whether her actions were an illegal conflict of interest.

  • Genshiyaki lands at Bengara in the Arts District
    Skewered meats propped upright around a glowing bed of embers and charcoal.
    The uni kiritampo, Bengara's take on a traditional Akita prefecture rice skewer, finished with uni and scallion.

    Topline:

    Chef Tyler Burges came upon genshiyaki, an ultra-rare ambient-heat grilling method, at a single robatayaki spot in the coastal city of Fukuoka in Japan — and spent six months building a custom pit to bring it to his new Arts District restaurant.

    Why it matters: L.A.'s Japanese dining scene defaults to ramen and omakase; Bengara's fire-driven menu, built by a Michelin-starred Saison/Angler alumnus, offers something genuinely uncommon, even in Japan.

    Why now: Bengara just launched an eight-course tasting menu ($98) centered on the technique, giving readers a fresh reason to visit.

    When Bengara opened in Los Angeles' Arts District earlier this year, its owner and head chef had something special lined up in their kitchen arsenal.

    It was genshiyaki, a rare traditional Japanese grilling method that dates back 1,500 years.

    Chef and co-owner Tyler Burges had only encountered it once while traveling in Japan at a robatayaki spot in Fukuoka, a port city on the island of Kyushu.

    Robatayaki, a style of slow, ember-cooked grilling rooted in Japan's rural coastal kitchens, usually centers on an open charcoal hearth. But the restaurant Burges visited had something even more noteworthy: a genshiyaki pit, a gentler, ambient method of cooking that uses radiant heat instead of direct flame.

    Loving the unusually subtle, delicate flavor and texture it produced, he and head chef Phil Mireles decided to bring genshiyaki back to the U.S. and build their Arts District restaurant around it. The genshiyaki pit is a rare enough technique that Burges had to work with fabricator Phil Roxworthy for six months just to get the grill built to spec.

    It's Burges' and Mireles' first L.A. project. The pair are also behind Smoke Door, their acclaimed Lake Tahoe restaurant, and Bengara brings a more casual, day-to-day take on the same fire-driven cooking.

    All roads lead to the Arts District

    Two chefs in black aprons and t-shirts stand in front of a wall with large Japanese calligraphy. The chef on the left has a light skin tone and brown hair; the chef on the right has a medium-dark skin tone and black hair.
    Chef/owner Tyler Burges (left) and head chef Phil Mireles at Bengara.
    (
    Wonho Frank Lee
    /
    Courtesy Bengara
    )

    Burges and Mireles both got their start at San Francisco's Saison and Angler under chef Joshua Skenes — who's now just down the street in L.A. at LYNX with fellow alum Brandyn Tepper.

    Burges traces Bengara's DNA back to two mentors: Ron Siegel, who introduced him to Japanese ingredients and technique in his mid-20s, and Skenes, who taught him to cook with live fire. It was Skenes, Burges said, who showed him that fire didn't have to mean char and bravado.

    "The one thing I loved about wood-fire cooking is you get this subtle, sweet barbecue flavor when you cook correctly over embers, and you don't cook directly over the fire," Burges said. "Most places, when you think about grilling something, you think of char, bold flavors, masculine flavors. But Chef Josh — it's like a master art, getting really delicate, subtle flavor using that grill method."

    Close-up of a grilled rice skewer topped with glistening uni and scallion, resting on black stones.
    The uni kiritampo, Bengara's take on a traditional Akita-prefecture rice skewer, finished with scallion.
    (
    Wono Frank Lee
    /
    Courtesy Bengara
    )

    What sets the food apart

    Take their luscious miso cod. On a normal grill, the marinade's sugars would blacken before the fish cooked through. On the genshiyaki pit, the cod sits at a distance from the embers, cooking gently until the very end, when it's given one last pass directly over the coals — what Burges describes as a final "kiss" of heat before it hits the plate.

    To fuel genshiyaki's slower, ambient style, ordinary charcoal or wood is replaced with binchotan, an ultra-dense, pure-carbon hardwood charcoal traditionally made in Japan, which burns hotter and cleaner.

    The signature dish

    A perfect example of how this cooking style comes together is the uni kiritampo, the Akita prefecture rice skewer, reimagined with uni and cooked via genshiyaki — born of an offhand kitchen conversation with one of the restaurant's Japanese chefs about regional dishes cooked over fire.

    Once they realized genshiyaki was the dish's original, historic cooking method, the rest fell into place.

    "It's like the most delicious thing," Burges said. "I don't know why it never made it over to the United States earlier."

    Dark, moody restaurant interior with wood tables, black leather banquette seating, and a hallway lined with warm sconce lighting.
    Bengara's Arts District dining room pairs industrial bones with warm, low lighting and long communal tables.
    (
    Wonho Frank Lee
    /
    Courtesy Bengara
    )

    The chewy exterior, with just a hint of smoke, gives way to a creamy inside, like a caramelized custard, that’s topped with a decadent amount of uni, providing a semi-sweet finish — one memorable bite.

    Tasting menu option

    Bengara recently added a daily eight-course tasting menu ($98) that doubles as a greatest-hits tour of the kitchen — Toyosu carpaccio with chili coffee oil, pork belly "tacos" wrapped in mochi crepes, miso cod, Mary's half chicken, and handmade citrus soba, with optional wagyu and uni add-ons.

    The price includes a beverage pairing, with a full non-alcoholic option alongside the boozy version. Walk-ins are welcome, and reservations can be booked via OpenTable.

    Location: 806 E. 3rd St., Ste 140, Arts District
    Hours: Sunday, Tuesday–Thursday, 5–9:30 p.m.; Friday–Saturday, 5–10:30 p.m.; weekend lunch 11:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m.; closed Monday