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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • California isn't studying quality of TK program
     A student with dark skin tone and brown hair in braids with pink beads spins in a chair-like toy on the playground.
    A social skill students can learn in transitional kindergarten is how to take turns on the playground.

    Topline:

    California has spent billions implementing a new grade for 4-year-olds in public schools called transitional kindergarten — but the state hasn’t set aside money to evaluate how it’s going. 

    The backstory: Transitional kindergarten, or TK, became available to all 4-year-olds this past school year, meaning that elementary schools are welcoming younger children than ever before.

    What’s new: Early childhood researchers across the state say a key piece has been missing in the implementation: the state itself hasn’t set aside money to evaluate the program as it's expanded, nor does it have plans to evaluate the program going forward.

    Why it matters: The way TK is administered can vary district by district, and experts say it’s crucial to making sure kids this young are getting instruction that is appropriate for their age (aka lots of play-based learning). “ It is a huge mistake to not evaluate the implementation of TK and whether or not the classrooms are providing developmentally appropriate practice,” said Jade Jenkins, an education professor at University of California Irvine.

    A cautionary tale: Researchers who LAist spoke to said it’s important to assess TK as research from Tennessee found their public preschool program ended up being harmful to children’s learning over time.

    Key Takeaways

    • California has spent billions implementing a new grade for 4-year-olds in public schools called transitional kindergarten — but the state hasn’t set aside money to evaluate how it’s going. 
    • The California Department of Education said absent funding from the state legislature for the department to evaluate the program, it convenes a regular group of early childhood researchers in the state to share their work into TK.
    • According to National Institute for Early Education Research, about two-thirds of public preschool programs in the country have a quality improvement system in place. California’s TK program does not.

    In 2021, Gov. Gavin Newsom and state lawmakers set out a plan to create the largest universal preschool program in the country for 4-year-olds, through a massive ramp-up of an elementary grade known as transitional kindergarten, or TK.

    At a news conference, Newsom called it “a commitment that all 4-year-olds will get high quality instructional education,” and said that the investment could close learning gaps. “People aren’t left behind, as often as they start behind,” he added.

    The state set a deadline that every district offer transitional kindergarten to all eligible 4-year-olds by fall 2025, and in the intervening years, schools have enrolled more than 175,000 children in TK. They’ve also had to hire new teachers and modify classrooms so that kids have enough space and quick access to smaller-sized bathrooms.

    LAist spoke to more than a half dozen early childhood researchers who say a key piece has been missing in the state’s implementation: California itself hasn’t evaluated the program as it's expanded, nor does it have plans to going forward. This, despite studies showing how critical the early years are for a child’s learning, and research from another state’s public preschool program that found students tested lower on state assessments and had more behavioral problems compared to those who weren’t in that program..

    “ It is a huge mistake to not evaluate the implementation of TK and whether or not the classrooms are providing developmentally appropriate practice,” said Jade Jenkins, associate professor of education at the University of California, Irvine.

    The criticism comes as California has invested $1.2 billion to expand TK, and is paying about $3.9 billion this year to administer the new grade level.

    “ We need to know whether this investment is actually lifting kids. We know it's a huge economic windfall for parents, and that's a great boost for families. But is it lifting kids without government research?” said Bruce Fuller, a professor emeritus of education and public policy at UC Berkeley.

    As a taxpayer, I don't find it acceptable that billions of dollars are being spent with no attention to how our systems can learn to use that in ways that are most beneficial for kids.
    — Alix Gallagher, Policy Analysis for California Education

    A spokesperson for the California Department of Education said money for research has not been allocated in the state budget, and the department would “welcome a legislative appropriation” to “study the impacts of TK on students and families.”

    “At this time, the Legislature and Governor have not appropriated funding for the CDE to conduct evaluations,” the agency said.

    Listen 3:41
    California has spent billions on its new preschool grade — but didn't invest in research to see how well it works
    A key piece has been missing in the state’s rollout of transitional kindergarten: California itself hasn’t evaluated the program as it's expanded.

    It’s not the first time the agency has brought up the need for a study — especially as the program was rolling out statewide. A state official told LAist in 2022 that they recommend an implementation study, but they opted not to suggest how it should be funded.

    “You could launch a very high quality study at a tiny, tiny, tiny percentage of the total funding for that program, and that would help people figure out what we are actually offering our families and how to improve it — and that seems really important,” said Alix Gallagher,  director of education policy and outcomes for the research organization Policy Analysis for California Education.

    “As a taxpayer, I don't find it acceptable that billions of dollars are being spent with no attention to how our systems can learn to use that in ways that are most beneficial for kids," she said.

    Researchers LAist spoke with

    • Dale Farran, professor emeritus, Vanderbilt University
    • Allison Friedman-Krauss, associate research professor at the National Institute for Early Education Research, Rutgers University
    • Bruce Fuller, professor emeritus of education and public policy, UC Berkeley.
    • Alix Gallagher, director of education policy and outcomes, Policy Analysis for California Education
    • Laura Hill, policy director and senior fellow, Public Policy Institute of California
    • Jade Jenkins, associate professor of education, UC Irvine
    • Rucker Johnson, professor of public policy, UC Berkeley
    • Austin Land, researcher, UC Berkeley's Equity and Excellence in Early Childhood

    TK experiences can look different school to school

    The state sets standards for TK classrooms, which can have a max of 24 kids and need a 10:1 student to adult ratio. Teachers must be credentialed with early childhood educational experience or units. And while the state has guidelines on what students should learn in TK, it has no mandated curriculum — meaning programs can vary widely from being play-based to more academic.

    Lyse Messmer, a parent of a TK child in northeast L.A., has seen even variation between two schools her son has attended in the same area. His first program relied more on screen time and worksheets; Messmer transferred him to another program with more outdoor play. And the teacher at the former school had not previously taught TK, she said, which made for a harder transition into school.

    But she said the overall experience has been beneficial for her child, and a welcome financial relief. “I think the benefits of him getting used to a bigger classroom and like a bigger elementary school and navigating all that stuff for him has been really positive,” she said.

    Adding a new grade is a massive endeavor for districts. As in Messmer’s case, it can be especially hard to find teachers with experience teaching kids this age, said Austin Land, a researcher at UC Berkeley’s Equity and Excellence in Early Childhood.

    “ You can't require that every kid that wants a TK spot gets a TK spot and then also require this workforce to exist that has all this preexisting training,” Land said.

    Land, who has been studying TK before the expansion, said he would like to know basic characteristics of TK classrooms today.

    “Do you have a sixth grade teacher that got reassigned leading your classroom or is it somebody who's been working with little kids for a while?” Land said. “ Is the teacher having a one-on-one interaction with a child or a one-on-two interaction with some children? Or are they spending most of their time up at the front?”

    Lack of data on quality

    Without data, it’s hard to know what children are learning, said Allison Friedman-Krauss, an associate research professor at the National Institute for Early Education Research at Rutgers University.

    “We want to make sure we're investing in quality for kids. And one way to know that we're doing it is to be able to monitor it… we want to make sure that the state can sort of have a pulse on what's going on in the classroom,” she said.

    A student with light skin tone and brown hair traces a lower-case letter a in red paint with a q-tip. The paper he is painting has Mateo printed in black.
    Transitional kindergarten classrooms can vary school to school, with some more play-based and others more academic.
    (
    Mariana Dale
    /
    LAist
    )

    The institute scores public preschool programs across the country on a number of benchmarks of quality. According to the institute’s tracking, about two-thirds of public preschool programs in the country have a classroom observation system in place, she said. California’s TK program does not.

    Researchers said it’s especially important to know what these youngest students are doing because early experiences can affect their learning later on.

    “At the very least, we want to make sure it's not doing harm,” Jenkins said.

    Where did transitional kindergarten come from?

    In 2010, state lawmakers passed The Kindergarten Readiness Act, which changed the age cutoff for kindergarten. It required districts to offer a new program— transitional kindergarten— to kids who would be excluded from kindergarten because of the change, those with 5th birthdays between September and December of the current school year.

    The law defined transitional kindergarten as "the first year of a two-year kindergarten program that uses a modified kindergarten curriculum that is age and developmentally appropriate." Every district implements TK a little differently, so you'll get the most useful information by asking them for more details about the program.

    The California Department of Education considers pre-K as an umbrella term — transitional kindergarten is pre-K, but not everything that could be considered pre-K is transitional kindergarten. (Programs like Head Start, for example.)

    Tennessee: A cautionary tale

    Researchers point to a study of Tennessee’s public preschool system as an example of where good intentions were not enough to benefit kids. The state has similar standards to what California put in place: max class sizes, low ratios, specialized teachers.

    Dale Farran, a professor emeritus at Vanderbilt University, found in her research that children who attended the pre-K program ended up faring worse academically and behaviorally than their peers who didn’t attend. Farran said standards don’t guarantee quality, much less equity between students from different social, economic and racial backgrounds.

    “Those structural elements  are the easiest things for states to make rules about, but are they having the kind of interactions in the classrooms that will be positive for children? That’s much harder to put into place,” she said.

    Farran has said that one possible reason for this was the overly academic nature of the program and structured settings: kids sitting at desks and listening to a teacher up front, when kids this age need to move around and play.

    Katie Flynn, a mom of a TK student in Pasadena, said while she’s had an overall positive experience with her son in TK this year, it still feels more like elementary school than preschool.

    At the beginning of the year, her son wouldn’t drink his water all day, or avoided going to the bathroom until he got home, because teachers didn’t remind or prompt him like they did in private preschool.

    “ I know it's also his responsibility, right? Like he needs to listen to his body. So it's a mutual, collaborative enterprise, but it just shows how limited this age group is in ensuring that that happens,” she said.

    What can the state do?

    The California Department of Education said absent funding from the state Legislature for the department to evaluate the program, it convenes a regular group of early childhood researchers in the state to share their work into TK. But researchers LAist talked to from that group said that approach can only go so far.

    Assemblymember Al Muratsuchi, chair of the Assembly Education Committee, said he wasn’t familiar with the Tennessee study, but funding for evaluation is something he will look into.

    “We definitely need to make sure that we're again evaluating our most effective programs so that we can focus on best practices to continue to support those statewide,” he said.

    “At the very least, we want to make sure [TK] is not doing harm."
    — Jade Jenkins, UC Irvine

    When LAist asked how the state will assess the current program, Muratsuchi and a State Board of Education spokesperson pointed to one large-scale study of TK done by the American Institutes for Research, in 2017. (The governor’s office also directed LAist to the state board.)

    That AIR study found that kids who went to TK when it first started in California had stronger literacy and math skills when entering kindergarten compared to similar-age peers who didn’t go to TK at the beginning of the year. (Those differences mostly faded by the end of the year).

    Land, the UC Berkeley researcher, and Gallagher, of PACE, said the AIR study was done nearly a decade ago, and on a TK program that looks different from TK today.

    That's because when TK started in 2012, they said, it was intended for kids who were nearly 5 years old, but had just missed the cutoff for kindergarten. Today, kids as young as 3 are entering TK in California.

    LAist also reached out to Karen Manship, principal researcher of the AIR study. She said they’re still investigating topics related to transitional kindergarten, “but we do not have any funding or current plans to evaluate the program overall now that it is fully rolled out.”

    The state education board spokesperson also cited research by economist Rucker Johnson, who looked at TK between 2013 and 2019, which found low-income children had greater reading and math gains by third grade than students who did not attend TK.

    “These points tell us that an early start has proven to be beneficial for California students,” said a spokesperson for the board, which sets state policy.

    LAist reached out to Johnson, who said that while his study of TK in the early years is promising, it’s “not a sufficient condition.”

    “For improvements to be sustained, meaning even if they were good in the past, it doesn't mean that we shouldn't continue to be monitoring the success as they're expanded and expanded that scale to universal,” he said.

    Kevin McCarty, Sacramento’s mayor and a former state assemblymember who championed the legislation to expand TK, told LAist funding is a challenge — given other budget priorities — but that he welcomes evaluation.

    “We want to make sure that it's effective, that it works, and if there are any issues that we need to address and improve going forward,” he said.

    In the meantime, he said the program has given many parents a huge economic relief — and parents have a choice on whether to send their kids.

    “This is free, this is — California paid for free universal pre-K,” he added, “which is a big deal because, we reminded people, paying for private preschool costs more than sending a kid to UCLA.”

  • Flies and other pests inundate warehouse area
    Workers in reflective vests hold tools near a mass of debris.
    The cleanup effort at the burned warehouse in Boyle Heights is a huge undertaking. Workers are seen here on June 30.

    Topline:

    Flies, rodents and other pests have been a persistent problem in Boyle Heights and nearby communities as millions of tons of food rot in a nearby burned-out warehouse. It’s gotten bad enough that L.A. Mayor Karen Bass is asking for action from the L.A. County Department of Public Health.

    What Bass said: In a letter to county Public Health Director Barbara Ferrer, Bass said she’s “concerned with County DPH’s pace in addressing this disaster” and the risks it posed to health and quality of life. “Possibly the worst manifestation of these risks is the severe infestation of flies in Boyle Heights and neighboring communities,” she wrote today.

    The pest control measures so far: Bass’ letter says the county took its first steps to hold Lineage accountable for a fly infestation on July 17, ordering Lineage to remove flies and mosquitoes from the warehouse, though her letter noted, “the County’s report only directs Lineage to eliminate flies from Lineage’s own property.” She said the county also needs to help control flies in adjacent communities.

    What the county has said: A spokesperson for the county Department of Public Health told LAist on July 17 that it had itself directed the city and Lineage to develop and implement a vector and insect control plan.

    Read on ... to learn what schools might do when classes begin in August.

    Flies, rodents and other pests have been a persistent problem in Boyle Heights and nearby communities as millions of tons of food rot in a nearby burned-out warehouse. It’s gotten bad enough that L.A. Mayor Karen Bass is asking for action from the L.A. County Department of Public Health.

    In a letter sent Tuesday to county Public Health Director Barbara Ferrer, Bass said she’s “concerned with County DPH’s pace in addressing this disaster” and the risks it posed to health and quality of life.

    “Possibly the worst manifestation of these risks is the severe infestation of flies in Boyle Heights and neighboring communities,” Bass wrote.

    LAist has asked the Department of Public Health for comment and will update this article when they respond.

    The back-and-forth between jurisdictions

    Bass wrote that the city of L.A., which does not have its own health department, is largely dependent on L.A. County for control of potentially disease-carrying vectors. The city has said elsewhere that its Sanitation Department did set about 250 rat traps in surrounding areas.

    Bass’ letter says the county took its first steps to hold Lineage accountable for a fly infestation on July 17, ordering Lineage to remove flies and mosquitoes from the warehouse.

    “Although I appreciate that County DPH has taken this first step, the County’s report only directs Lineage to eliminate flies from Lineage’s own property,” Bass’ letter to Ferrer states.

    Bass urged the county to compel Lineage to address pests at neighboring properties “with aggressive measures to eliminate the flies and any other vectors.”

    As for L.A. County’s Department of Public Health, a spokesperson told LAist on July 17 that it had itself directed the city and Lineage to address the pest situation.

    “Los Angeles County Department of Public Health requested that both Lineage Logistics and the City of Los Angeles develop and implement a vector/insect control plan,” the statement reads.

    Lineage’s part

    According to Councilmember Ysabel Jurado, who represents Boyle Heights on the L.A. City Council and met with Lineage representatives on Monday, an inspector contracted by the company confirmed that the rotting food at the warehouse is serving as a breeding ground for flies. The infestation won’t go away without addressing the root cause, Jurado reported the contractor as saying.

    “Removing waste, adding odor-control equipment, and conducting a pest inspection are important,” Jurado said in a statement. “But residents are asking a more fundamental question: Are conditions actually improving? They deserve evidence, timelines and accountability — not just a list of activities.”

    Lineage has not yet presented its pest control plan to the public.

    A ticking clock

    The first day of instruction for L.A. Unified schools is Aug. 12, three days before the city’s current deadline to clear the warehouse — a deadline Lineage does not appear to be on track to meet.

    That’s led many teachers and parents to raise the alarm about smells and pests that may very well still be around when school starts. An LAUSD spokesperson told Boyle Heights Beat that it is prepared to temporarily relocate nearby schools, as they did with summer programs during the warehouse fire.

    Meanwhile, Lineage also faced a deadline of Tuesday to present a plan to air quality officials on how to address smells. At the time of publication, it was not clear if the company had met that deadline.

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  • LAHSA hasn’t finished any internal audits in years
    A woman with medium skin tone with short curly light brown hair wearing black-rimmed glasses and a black jacket with the seal of Los Angeles stands behind a podium speaking into a microphone.
    L.A. Mayor Karen Bass speaks at a news conference before LAHSA's annual homeless count in 2025. Next to her are LAHSA's then-CEO Va Lecia Adams Kellum and LAHSA's then-Chair Wendy Greuel (far right).

    Topline:

    L.A.’s homeless services agency has not completed any internal audits in years — and one that was started two years ago is still incomplete because management is taking months to provide responses, officials said Monday.

    Details: The delayed audit has been looking into why the L.A. Homeless Services Authority, known as LAHSA, failed to spend $7 million in federal dollars it was granted to house and serve people in need. The roughly six-page audit report hasn’t been released because it’s missing LAHSA management responses that were requested over two months ago, officials said.

    Why it matters: Internal audits are considered critically important to protecting taxpayer dollars at every level of government. L.A. County auditors, for example, issued about 100 reports in a recent fiscal year.

    Not the first rodeo: The audit is examining a repeat problem. A previous audit in January 2022 found LAHSA had left $3.5 million in federal grants on the table by not using them.

    L.A.’s homeless services agency has not completed any internal audits in years — and one that was started two years ago is still incomplete because management is taking months to provide responses, officials said Monday.

    The delayed audit has been looking into why the L.A. Homeless Services Authority, known as LAHSA, failed to spend $7 million in federal dollars it was granted to house and serve people in need. The roughly six-page audit report hasn’t been released because it’s missing LAHSA management responses that were requested over two months ago, officials said.

    Internal audits are considered critically important to protecting taxpayer dollars at every level of government. L.A. County auditors, for example, issued about 100 reports in a recent fiscal year.

    “ We haven’t gotten anything,” said Erum Shahnawaz, LAHSA’s chief internal auditor, referring to the lack of response from LAHSA management at a meeting of the agency’s audit committee on Monday.

    “That’s the only thing that's holding us from issuing the final report,” Shahnawaz said of the underspending audit.

    That audit is examining a repeat problem. A previous, external audit in January 2022 found LAHSA had left $3.5 million in federal grants on the table by not using them.

    Shahnawaz flagged management’s delays to the LAHSA Commissioner Justin Szlasa, Szlasa said. He chairs the commission’s audit committee, and has repeatedly called out LAHSA executives’ delays in providing information about taxpayer spending over the past year.

    “ I've been trying to intervene and use whatever I can to try to help provide support,” said Szlasa as he described his attempts to get the auditor the answers needed to complete the report.

    Szlasa was appointed to the commission by L.A. County Supervisor Kathryn Barger.

     “It shouldn't take us two months to receive a…management response to an internal audit,” Szlasa said at Monday’s meeting. He said the industry standard for internal audits is eight or nine weeks from start to finish. That compares to the two years — and counting — for LAHSA’s federal underspend audit.

    “We haven't had a single internal audit completed here in the last couple of years, which is nuts,” Szlasa added. He called for internal audits to happen much more frequently.

    Long delays to LAHSA audits also are not new. In November 2024, the county issued a widely-seen audit that included findings that LAHSA was failing to complete internal audits.

    Half of LAHSA’s governing commission is appointed by L.A. Mayor Karen Bass and half appointed by each of the five county supervisors. Bass is also the only elected official on the commission. She served on the audit committee for several months last fall. Records show she was absent for all of the meetings during that time.

    Janine Lim, LAHSA’s deputy chief financial officer, said management’s responses to the audit on underspending haven’t been provided yet because LAHSA leadership did not have clearly defined roles for who is supposed to coordinate responses to internal audits.

    “ We need to work on clarifying that role internally,” Lim said.

     “The last two months have been probably some of the most stress-filled two months that we've had at LAHSA,” said Paul Rubenstein, chief of staff to LAHSA CEO Gita O’Neil, pointing to mass layoffs.

    Szlasa said there’s not that much in the audit for management to respond to.

    “It's like, six pages or less,” he said.

    Szlasa said  another option is to “just say we've asked management for responses and we're awaiting management response. We can publish the results.”

    In response, Shahnawaz said that if management doesn't have an updated timeline for a response, then she’ll go ahead and issue the report without the response.

    Once they floated that idea, Lim committed to providing the responses by next Tuesday.

    LAHSA’s leadership has downsized the internal audit team — dropping from a staff of three to just one in the agency’s proposed budget up for approval Friday.

    Delays in getting access to financial records

    The delayed responses from management are not the only thing that’s been slowing down audits, Szlasa said at the meeting.

    LAHSA policy, approved by its governing commission, says internal auditors are “ authorized to access all organizational records, personnel, and systems necessary for conducting audits,” he said.

    But the auditor has faced challenges in actually getting that access, Szlasa said — including delays in being allowed to view LAHSA’s databases that show contracts and financial payments.

     ”We finally were granted access, but it wasn't, it wasn't easy, it wasn't immediate. It was slow,” Szlasa said.

    Many failed outside audits

    The delays on the internal audit come even after LAHSA failed multiple external audits in recent years, which have found the agency — overseen by city and county elected officials — has neglected to properly track billions of dollars in spending.

    Largely in response to earlier audits, L.A. County supervisors pulled funding from LAHSA and are having the county instead oversee it directly. L.A.’s mayor and City Council have continued to have LAHSA manage the city’s homeless spending while the council delays plans to start studying a possible plan to transition away city tax dollars.

    Signatures under scrutiny

    LAHSA is also in the midst of a different internal audit — expected to finish in late August or early September — examining whether top officials followed requirements when signing contracts and letting others sign. It was launched in the wake of LAist reporting that found LAHSA’s then-CEO Va Lecia Adams Kellum’s signature finalized a $2.1 million contract with her husband’s employer.

    How to reach me

    If you have a tip, you can reach me on Signal. My username is ngerda.47.

    LAist also discovered Adams Kellum’s signature, as LAHSA’s CEO at the time, finalized a quarter-million-dollar contract between LAHSA and a longtime service provider she led up until two months earlier.

    That contract was signed so soon after she left the service provider — St. Joseph Center — that the contract paperwork still listed her as one of St. Joseph Center’s points of contact and authorized signers.

    She is currently under a state ethics investigation into whether her actions were an illegal conflict of interest.

  • Genshiyaki lands at Bengara in the Arts District
    Skewered meats propped upright around a glowing bed of embers and charcoal.
    The uni kiritampo, Bengara's take on a traditional Akita prefecture rice skewer, finished with uni and scallion.

    Topline:

    Chef Tyler Burges came upon genshiyaki, an ultra-rare ambient-heat grilling method, at a single robatayaki spot in the coastal city of Fukuoka in Japan — and spent six months building a custom pit to bring it to his new Arts District restaurant.

    Why it matters: L.A.'s Japanese dining scene defaults to ramen and omakase; Bengara's fire-driven menu, built by a Michelin-starred Saison/Angler alumnus, offers something genuinely uncommon, even in Japan.

    Why now: Bengara just launched an eight-course tasting menu ($98) centered on the technique, giving readers a fresh reason to visit.

    When Bengara opened in Los Angeles' Arts District earlier this year, its owner and head chef had something special lined up in their kitchen arsenal.

    It was genshiyaki, a rare traditional Japanese grilling method that dates back 1,500 years.

    Chef and co-owner Tyler Burges had only encountered it once while traveling in Japan at a robatayaki spot in Fukuoka, a port city on the island of Kyushu.

    Robatayaki, a style of slow, ember-cooked grilling rooted in Japan's rural coastal kitchens, usually centers on an open charcoal hearth. But the restaurant Burges visited had something even more noteworthy: a genshiyaki pit, a gentler, ambient method of cooking that uses radiant heat instead of direct flame.

    Loving the unusually subtle, delicate flavor and texture it produced, he and head chef Phil Mireles decided to bring genshiyaki back to the U.S. and build their Arts District restaurant around it. The genshiyaki pit is a rare enough technique that Burges had to work with fabricator Phil Roxworthy for six months just to get the grill built to spec.

    It's Burges' and Mireles' first L.A. project. The pair are also behind Smoke Door, their acclaimed Lake Tahoe restaurant, and Bengara brings a more casual, day-to-day take on the same fire-driven cooking.

    All roads lead to the Arts District

    Two chefs in black aprons and t-shirts stand in front of a wall with large Japanese calligraphy. The chef on the left has a light skin tone and brown hair; the chef on the right has a medium-dark skin tone and black hair.
    Chef/owner Tyler Burges (left) and head chef Phil Mireles at Bengara.
    (
    Wonho Frank Lee
    /
    Courtesy Bengara
    )

    Burges and Mireles both got their start at San Francisco's Saison and Angler under chef Joshua Skenes — who's now just down the street in L.A. at LYNX with fellow alum Brandyn Tepper.

    Burges traces Bengara's DNA back to two mentors: Ron Siegel, who introduced him to Japanese ingredients and technique in his mid-20s, and Skenes, who taught him to cook with live fire. It was Skenes, Burges said, who showed him that fire didn't have to mean char and bravado.

    "The one thing I loved about wood-fire cooking is you get this subtle, sweet barbecue flavor when you cook correctly over embers, and you don't cook directly over the fire," Burges said. "Most places, when you think about grilling something, you think of char, bold flavors, masculine flavors. But Chef Josh — it's like a master art, getting really delicate, subtle flavor using that grill method."

    Close-up of a grilled rice skewer topped with glistening uni and scallion, resting on black stones.
    The uni kiritampo, Bengara's take on a traditional Akita-prefecture rice skewer, finished with scallion.
    (
    Wono Frank Lee
    /
    Courtesy Bengara
    )

    What sets the food apart

    Take their luscious miso cod. On a normal grill, the marinade's sugars would blacken before the fish cooked through. On the genshiyaki pit, the cod sits at a distance from the embers, cooking gently until the very end, when it's given one last pass directly over the coals — what Burges describes as a final "kiss" of heat before it hits the plate.

    To fuel genshiyaki's slower, ambient style, ordinary charcoal or wood is replaced with binchotan, an ultra-dense, pure-carbon hardwood charcoal traditionally made in Japan, which burns hotter and cleaner.

    The signature dish

    A perfect example of how this cooking style comes together is the uni kiritampo, the Akita prefecture rice skewer, reimagined with uni and cooked via genshiyaki — born of an offhand kitchen conversation with one of the restaurant's Japanese chefs about regional dishes cooked over fire.

    Once they realized genshiyaki was the dish's original, historic cooking method, the rest fell into place.

    "It's like the most delicious thing," Burges said. "I don't know why it never made it over to the United States earlier."

    Dark, moody restaurant interior with wood tables, black leather banquette seating, and a hallway lined with warm sconce lighting.
    Bengara's Arts District dining room pairs industrial bones with warm, low lighting and long communal tables.
    (
    Wonho Frank Lee
    /
    Courtesy Bengara
    )

    The chewy exterior, with just a hint of smoke, gives way to a creamy inside, like a caramelized custard, that’s topped with a decadent amount of uni, providing a semi-sweet finish — one memorable bite.

    Tasting menu option

    Bengara recently added a daily eight-course tasting menu ($98) that doubles as a greatest-hits tour of the kitchen — Toyosu carpaccio with chili coffee oil, pork belly "tacos" wrapped in mochi crepes, miso cod, Mary's half chicken, and handmade citrus soba, with optional wagyu and uni add-ons.

    The price includes a beverage pairing, with a full non-alcoholic option alongside the boozy version. Walk-ins are welcome, and reservations can be booked via OpenTable.

    Location: 806 E. 3rd St., Ste 140, Arts District
    Hours: Sunday, Tuesday–Thursday, 5–9:30 p.m.; Friday–Saturday, 5–10:30 p.m.; weekend lunch 11:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m.; closed Monday

  • General admission on sale ahead of fall opening
    A white building in an infinity shape with black, glass roofing. Off to the left is a street with a few cars driving by. In front the white building is a large grass area.
    The long-awaited Lucas Museum of Narrative Art is set to open at Exposition Park on Sept. 22.

    Topline:

    General admission tickets are now on sale for the Lucas Museum of Narrative Art ahead of its fall opening with thousands trying to secure a spot, according to Tuesday’s virtual queue.

    Why it matters: Museum officials said you will “likely experience high demand and long wait times in the queue" and thanked people for their patience.

    LAist saw estimated wait times up to 6 hours, and it took a little more than 4.5 hours for this reporter to get through. On the bright side, there were still plenty of tickets left, including for the first day. Do not refresh the page or you may lose your spot.

    The details: All tickets are timed entry. Tickets are $25 for adults and $21 for those 65 and older. Children, members, active-duty military, personal aides or attendants and EBT cardholders have free entry. Museum neighbors in the LM37 program will also be free, with that pass opening in August.

    But how do I buy: Each person is limited to nine tickets, and you’ll have 20 minutes to check out once they’re added to your cart, according to the museum. You can find the link here.

    What's next: The grand opening is Tuesday, Sept. 22.

    • Location: One Lucas Plaza, Los Angeles
    • Regular hours: Monday, Wednesday, Thursday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Friday from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Saturday from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Closed Tuesdays)

    Go deeper: How to secure Lucas Museum of Narrative Art tickets ahead of the fall opening

    Topline:

    General admission tickets are now on sale for the Lucas Museum of Narrative Art ahead of its fall opening with thousands trying to secure a spot, according to Tuesday’s virtual queue.

    Why it matters: Museum officials said you will “likely experience high demand and long wait times in the queue" and thanked people for their patience.

    LAist saw estimated wait times up to 6 hours, and it took a little more than 4.5 hours for this reporter to get through. On the bright side, there were still plenty of tickets left, including for the first day. Do not refresh the page or you may lose your spot.

    The details: All tickets are timed entry. Tickets are $25 for adults and $21 for those 65 and older. Children, members, active-duty military, personal aides or attendants and EBT cardholders have free entry. Museum neighbors in the LM37 program will also be free, with that pass opening in August.

    But how do I buy: Each person is limited to nine tickets, and you’ll have 20 minutes to check out once they’re added to your cart, according to the museum. You can find the link here.

    What's next: The grand opening is Sept. 22.

    Go deeper: How to secure Lucas Museum of Narrative Art tickets ahead of the fall opening