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Best Thing I Ate: Yemeni Desserts At Qamaria Cafe In Fullerton

A tray with a blue-tiled design sits on a light wooden tabletop. The tray includes a large white paper cup filled with dark brown coffee with a small amount of brown foam gathered on the top. In the bottom corner of the tray is a small circular wooden plate with a triangular slice of white cheesecake topped with an orange-spun pastry topping. In the upper right-hand corner sits a square cake with a light green crumb at the bottom containing white frosting and bits of a yellow-light-green topping.
Come for the desserts, and stay for the coffee at Qamaria Yemeni Coffee Co. in Fullerton. Pictured: Marib coffee infused with cardamon, kunafa cheesecake (bottom left), and pistachio milk cake (upper right)
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Gab Chabrán
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LAist
)

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As a regular coffee drinker, I'm always looking for a new place to consume caffeine and do some work. So when LAist colleague Yusra Farzan told me about Qamaria Coffee Co., a coffee chain that has expanded from the Midwest to Southern California with a new location in Fullerton, I knew it had to be my next stop.

Yemeni coffee is said to be some of the finest in the world, but it is still rare in the United States, where most of the beans we see are from Africa and Latin America.

When we were discussing Ramadan coverage for Food Friday, Yusra mentioned that Qamaria is generally a big hangout for students from Cal State Fullerton who are looking for some downtime between classes — and, now for those fasting during the day, it also becomes place to gather and eat in the evenings. She added that the desserts, such as their milk cake and cheesecake, were just as good as the coffee.

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When I arrived, four flavors of the milk cake were available in the pastry case: pistachio, caramel, saffron, and rose. Based on the recommendation of the gentleman working behind the counter, I decided to go with the pistachio.

The slice of cake was topped with a light vanilla frosting sprinkled with bits of pistachio with a delicate, highly moist green crumb on the bottom. The cake was airy and fluffy and had a wallop of flavor with each bite.

I was struck by how similar it was to another favorite cake of mine, tres leches, which made sense when I found out the ingredients. It seems tres leches and milk cake contain a similar dairy trifecta — condensed milk, evaporated milk, and whole milk or cream. The only difference is the milk cake comes in a variety of flavors.

In addition to the milk cake, I decided I hadn't met my daily dairy intake, so I grabbed a cheesecake slice to sample. (It's a tough life, I know). I opted for the kunafa (also referred to as knafeh) cheesecake. The traditional kunafa dessert is two layers of spun phyllo dough-like pastry between a helping of stretchy white cheese. This kunafa cheesecake was a perfect homage, with kunafa acting as an excellent topping to the cheesecake below, providing a layer of texturized sweetness.

I also grabbed a cup of the Marib coffee, a medium roast coffee infused with cardamom. Like Greek or Turkish coffee, it contains a certain amount of intense flavor, giving you a potent jolt with each sip. About halfway through, it made me feel like Superman, giving me the impression that I could fly down the 5 Freeway on my way home.

It was around 4 p.m., and it was time for me to leave; however, the crowd had increased significantly. Seeing a business with a new concept thrive amongst groups of young people from diverse backgrounds was an incredible sight. I can't wait to go back.

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