Spago Named L.A.'s Most Iconic Restaurant

Published Apr 2, 2013 11:00 PM

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In the world of food, there are few true icons. When it comes to the food of Los Angeles, we have a glutton's share of phenomenal classic restaurants that have served residents and tourists alike for 50, 60, or even over 100 years, as well as a smorgasbord of "celebrity" chefs thanks to the pornification of food and culinary-oriented TV, with a hefty dash of our own fanned flames of fame culture.

That said, what restaurants are considered L.A. icons?

While we didn't ask the question, we learned that Zagat answered it, by compiling their list of "The Most Iconic Restaurants in 15 U.S. Cities." So who reps our fair city? Spago.

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Spago's menu in 1983 (Photo courtesy LAPL)
Zagat says their guide will help visitors and locals "experience the unique flavor of a city with one meal."

In a blurb peppered with a rash of "quoted bits," Zagat says the following of Spago:

“What’s left to say” about this “quintessential LA” hub in Beverly Hills - “the jewel in the crown” of the Wolfgang Puck empire - that’s “going strong after all these years” turning out “knock-your-socks-off” Californian cuisine in a “glamorous”, “glittering” setting sprinkled with “aging celebs”, “power producers and socialites”; “everyone gets treated royally”, and “with a little luck, you can get a handshake from the man himself” - in sum, there’s “no finer place” to “impress”, as long as you can handle the “sky-high” tabs.

Spago recently underwent a remodeling, and when it emerged, instantly had tongues wagging about the food, and, of course, the enduring prices. (And, heck, we even called the restaurant "iconic," after taking a tour of the revamped airy, art-laden food-lover's mecca.)Late last year, L.A.'s arguably most iconic food scribes, Jonathan Gold, reflected on this new era of Spago and Puck's tenure as a top chef (not as a quote-unquote "Top Chef" mind you), noting the restaurant is at a crossroads.

It remains sexy, sophisticated, and 'spensive, and still a special occasion dining destination for those of us who don't darken its doors regularly to exercise our generous expense accounts. And so, L.A., according to Zagat, if you're going to taste L.A. in one meal you're going to skip the taco trucks, Thai Town, greasy spoons, brewpubs, French Dips, and Dodger Dogs and drop a wad at the palace of Puck.