The Brief

Welcome to LAist City Treks, a series of easy hikes and walks that will help you explore the parts of Los Angeles and SoCal we rarely get to see — or only see through the car window. Expect to get about 5K steps, and plenty of photos for your social media channels. Keep scrolling, because you'll also find recommendations for grabbing a quick bite to eat once you're finished.

Where are we headed?

Why now?

In its peak year of 1924, a staggering 109,185,650 passengers rode Los Angeles’ premier streetcar line, the Pacific Electric Red Car. Up until 1955, one of its most popular routes was from downtown to Glendale, with a stop on the east bank of the Los Angeles River.

While we can’t go back in time and ride the trolley (at least, not yet), we can at least experience ephemeral reminders of its former glory in Atwater Village, a place where the past comfortably commingles with the vibrant present.

Quickly, what can I expect?

• Route conditions: Nearly all flat, paved sidewalks and walkways (with the option to detour on unpaved trails at Sunnynook River Park)
• Difficulty: An easy 1 on a scale of 1 to 5
• Distance: About 2.5 miles, with the option to add on more if desired
• Dog friendly: Yes, and you'll walk by the Morrison Restaurant which touts its dog-friendly patio.
• Parking: Street parking, free
• Bathrooms: Several opportunities to stop in at businesses along the way, so you might want bring a few singles to tip in exchange for using the facilities.

Map it!

OK, let's get started ...

Nostalgia is a funny thing. Many Angelenos — myself included — were not even alive during the Red Car era, yet we pine for the trolley’s re-emergence. As Southern California Railway Museum puts it, Los Angeles was home to America's largest electric railway system, "blanketing the Los Angeles region with more than 1,000 miles of rail lines."

This loop through Atwater Village kicks off at Red River Park, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it sliver of green just east of the Glendale-Hyperion Bridge where the Red Car once crossed over to the center median of Glendale Boulevard.

The entrance to this walking area sneaks up on you. It's easy to miss, especially when there are many cars parked along the street.

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It leads to a 430-foot-long pedestrian and cycling bridge over the L.A. River, reinforcing the adage “what’s old is new.” After the last train rumbled over the river, the tracks were ripped up, leaving behind several concrete stanchions protruding from the water.

What it used to look like

What it looked like back in the day: A vintage shot of the Pacific Electric Railway Company streetcar crossing the Los Angeles River on the Glendale Line on April 17, 1952.

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What it looks like today

You'll walk across this pedestrian bridge to get to the other side of the L.A. River, and enjoy walking along the bike trail. Just stay to the far right.

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Forlorn and purposeless, the pillars got a new lease on life when the Red Car Bridge, upon which you will tread as you walk across it, was laid over them in 2020. The viaduct’s decorative red stripes are a winking tribute to the erstwhile trolleys.

After you step off the bridge, being mindful of cyclists, turn right on the L.A. River bicycle path. The river factors into Atwater’s etymology: When it was subdivided in 1902, the tract was advertised as “at-water.” You'll pass under the Glendale-Hyperion Bridge, a 13-arch work of art designed by Merrill Butler in 1927.

What makes this stretch of the L.A. River special

Up ahead, Sunnynook River Park emerges on your left. Pause if you like to stroll its paths of restored native vegetation along the bike path. The park’s riparian trees are in keeping with the Glendale Narrows, the name given to an 11-mile stretch through Northeast L.A. While much of the L.A. River is encased in concrete, this section boasts a natural soft bottom, much to the delight of the herons and egrets who feast on fish (and to you, who delight in herons and egrets).

Once you've taken in the park, you'll cross back over the river via an older pedestrian bridge. Officially called the Sunnynook Bridge, it’s better known as the Love Lock Bridge. You'll find dozens of locks fastened to the fencing. It’s a place for soulmates to solidify their love, minus the potential regret of lifelong tattoos!

That pedestrian bridge crossing back over the river? That's where you're headed.

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The entrance to the footbridge back over the L.A. River.

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This is a popular place for lovers to leave behind a padlock.

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Once you're off the footbridge, you'll turn left and contine walking along the banks of the L.A. River, to Los Feliz Boulevard.

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When you step off this pedestrian bridge, turn left and continue on the river's walkway.

Then, exit and turn right onto Los Feliz Boulevard.

The next few blocks feature mom-and-pop stores and two iconic theme establishments — Bigfoot Lodge and the Tam O’Shanter.

The Disney connection

Occupying the corner of Los Feliz and Boyce Avenue since 1922, the Tam was designed by Harry Oliver, an Oscar-nominated art director who also took on non-studio clients. Oliver was a leading architect of the Storybook style. As the name implies, its structures were defined by crooked windows, pitched roofs, and whimsical flourishes — think Hansel and Gretel’s fairy tale house, or the real-life "Witch's House" in Beverly Hills (also designed by Oliver).

If you look closely, you can still see Walt Disney's fingerprints at the Tam.

The original Disney studio was just over the river in Silver Lake. Walt Disney himself (and his animators) frequented the roadhouse so often that the Tam was the de facto studio commissary. In fact, Disney’s legacy is well-preserved in the lobby of Tam O'Shanter's.

Sketches of Mickey Mouse and his gang hang on the walls, including one drawn by Walt himself. (Book a dinner reservation for later: A plaque memorializes Walt’s favorite table — the much-sought-after Table 31 — near the fireplace.)

One could see how the restaurant appealed to Walt. How much so is debatable, but there are clear parallels between the Tam and the whole Village Haus portion of Disneyland’s Fantasyland. A more direct link is the Hyperion-Glendale Bridge near this route's trailhead, and which led to Disney’s studio back in the day: A replica of it extends over Buena Vista Street at Disney California Adventure.

What's with all the turns?

After checking out the Tam, regroup back at the intersection of Los Feliz Boulevard and Boyce Avenue. You want to head southeast on Boyce Avenue. (Don't know which direction is southeast? As you walked up Los Feliz Boulevard and came upon the Tam, you would have turned right onto Boyce Avenue. So do that.)

Then, make your first right, onto Dover Street, and then take your second left, onto Edenhurst Avenue.

Why this zig-zag route?

It takes you through the heart of Atwater’s residential district, where you can enjoy some of the prettiest homes around. Deodar cedar trees provide ample shade as you take in an array of architectural styles dominated by 1920s Spanish-style bungalows, perfectly suited for the village’s relatively small lots.

Why Glendale Boulevard is so wide

A colorful building at the intersection of Edenhurt Street and Glendale Boulevard is painted in a variety of hues, a hint of the relaxed, breezy style this community is known for.

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Six blocks later, you'll find yourself at Glendale Boulevard, whose wide center median once served the Red Car tracks that ran through here.

Fortunately, Atwater’s main drag has staved off the type of decline that has gutted other L.A. business districts, thanks to its diverse and creative community, strong neighborhood pride, and a good mix of essential and trendy retailers that appeals to both locals and outsiders.

Here, you have a decision to make. You can turn right onto Glendale Boulevard and make your way back to your car.

Or, you can browse Glendale Boulevard's many boutiques, or languish in a neighborhood bar or bistro. We have a few dining recommendations below. Heck, Red Car River Park took some 50 years to come into being; what’s a few more minutes as it awaits your return?

Done! Where to eat?

LAist's Associate Editor for Food and Culture Gab Chabrán recommends the following four places in the area to grab a bite:

Hugo's Tacos

Tacos — soft or crispy — are so popular here at Hugo's. You might almost forget everything else that's on the menu, including burritos, protein bowls and quesadillas. And then there's the torta ahogada, served on a Mexican sandwich roll layered with beans, guac, your protein choice, veggies, and then griddled in a honey chipotle dressing.

Dune

Dune is known for its Mediterranean breakfasts — avocado toast with tomato confit on Bub and Grandma's sourdough — and fried chicken shawarma, as well as lavish meze plates made for sharing.

Proof Bakery

Proof Bakery is a slice of carb heaven. And it has plenty for those with a savory tooth as well as a sweet tooth. In additional to favorites such as croissants and fruit danishes, scones, and coffee cakes, there are also sandwiches, too, including a focaccia BLT.

Holy Basil

Considered to be some of the best Thai food in L.A. But Holy Basil is really all about chef Wedchayan “Deau” Arpapornnopparat's channeling of Thai flavors and Chinese influences into something uniquely original. The "Grandma's fish and rice" — the chef's beloved dish from childhood — is a favorite.

Where to next?

Any suggestions for great hikes in and around L.A.? Don't keep it to yourself! Let us know, and we might check them out for a future story.

Haddad is the author of the hiking bible 10,000 Steps A Day in LA and the upcoming Inventing Paradise: The Power Brokers Who Created the Dream of Los Angeles. Read more about Haddad here.

For the last three years, the record store and music venue Healing Force of the Universe has been operating on a sleepy street corner not far from Pasadena City College. Nearby businesses include a shoe repair store, a nail salon and several auto shops.

“We're kind of in a dead corner,” owner Austin Manuel said. “No offense if anybody lives here, but not a very foot-trafficked area, kind of a hard place to have a store.”

In spite of the location, Manuel said Healing Force has become a home away from home for musicians and music fans. One of them is Bobby Bradford, a jazz trumpet legend who lost his house and personal archive in the Eaton Fire. He performs regularly at the venue. (Healing Force has also partnered with LAist on fire recovery events.)

Its current location is set to close this month, but Manuel and his team are already raising funds to cover a move to another space: G-Son Studios in Atwater Village. The repurposed ballroom was the Beastie Boys' home base when they recorded their classic albums Check Your Head and Ill Communication. Run-DMC and Biz Markie stopped by at one point, and Beck also laid down tracks for his album Odelay there.

Inside Healing Force's space in Pasadena.

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The vibe

Healing Force sells records, of course, but these days it’s more of a nighttime performance space. Manuel said he wants people to feel comfortable striking up conversations after a show.

“I grew up in the church in the South, and I was like, ‘How do I design this so that it feels like a Southern church lady could come in here and feel welcome?’" Manuel said. “ I didn't want it to be too cool.  I wanted it to feel kind of suburban in a way.”

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Though the name might call to mind a cult slogan — and Manuel said they lean into that aesthetic on purpose — it’s actually a reference to the 1970 album Music Is the Healing Force of the Universe by saxophonist Albert Ayler.

At the venue, “people can kind of get … into a meditative zone,” Manuel said. “After the [January 2025] fires, it felt so good to come back together in this room and feel the healing of community.”

Healing Force's stage setup.

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The performances

The shows Healing Force puts on share a common thread: They’re meant to promote peace and relaxation, as well as deep, careful listening on the hi-fi sound system. But they’re an eclectic mix of genres. On one night, you might see L.A. spiritual jazz band Phi-Psonics, who turned a residency at the venue into a live album, Expanding to One.

On another night, you might catch a spaced-out electronic set, an up-and-coming singer-songwriter or a group of session musicians who’ve played with the likes of Paul Simon, Elton John and Lucinda Williams.

About the fundraiser

With the new space on Glendale Boulevard, Manuel said, Healing Force would triple its capacity for concerts, get a bar space and be closer to other venues in Northeast L.A.

“If 1,000 people gave $25, we would get there,” Manuel said – though he also said most people have been giving more.

You can read more about the fundraiser and donate at Healing Force’s GoFundMe.

See the Pasadena space before it closes

The venue is still open at 1200 E. Walnut Street and is holding events through this Halloween weekend. You can see their events calendar on their website.

The racist DNA of Jim Crow discrimination may be embedded in your housing documents.

The language in housing documents that restricts sale or use of a property only to a person of the white race is called a “restrictive covenant,” and in California the practice goes back to the 19th century and continued into the mid-20th century. While housing discrimination persists, the practice was found unconstitutional in 1948.

California counties are reporting mixed progress in meeting the demands of a 2021 law to excise the language from property records.

According to Sylvia Manzo, deputy recorder in the Orange County Clerk-Recorder’s office, the county finished the job in March of this year, removing racist language from more than 27,000 property documents with the help of computer software.

This 1924 property document from Bakersfield includes racist language limiting use of the property in question to people of "the white or Caucasian race."

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L.A. County is far from done. It says that with the help of an outside company hired in 2024, 50 million pages will be examined yearly, which would take about 10 years to finish the job.

Public agencies could use the public’s help.

Language examples

Here’s a 1924 example from a property in Bakersfield. The text reads, “That the lands herein conveyed shall never, at any time, be sold to or rented to or occupied by any person not of the white or Caucasian race.”

Or this language from a 1936 document relating to a Costa Mesa property: “That said premises shall not be sold, conveyed, rented, or leased to, or occupied by any person of African, Mexican, or Asiatic descent.”

How to get it taken out

The Restrictive Covenant Modification Form is at the heart of the effort to remove the racist language from housing documents. Each county has its own process. Some charge a fee; others don’t. Some require a notary certification for the signature; others don’t.

L.A. County:

Registrar-Recorder officials recommend these steps:

• Highlight or underline the unlawful provision on the recorded document
• Complete the Restrictive Covenant Modification Form
• Submit the form and the recorded document by email: RCM@rrcc.lacounty.gov or in person at the Norwalk headquarters at 12400 Imperial Highway in Norwalk
• Mail instructions are here.

Orange County:

The Orange County spokesperson says there may be some properties not caught by its software and urges the public to report them. Here’s the form

Riverside County:

Here’s the Riverside County form

San Bernardino County:

Here’s the San Bernardino County form

San Diego County:

Here’s the San Diego County form

Santa Barbara County:

Here’s the Santa Barbara County form

Ignoring the racist language in property documents, some say, reinforces the legacy of segregation, while taking steps to remove restrictive covenant language is a way individuals and organizations can repudiate policies that sought to discriminate.