The Brief

Welcome to LAist City Treks, a series of easy hikes and walks that will help you explore the parts of Los Angeles and SoCal we rarely get to see — or only see through the car window. Expect to get about 5K steps, and plenty of photos for your social media channels. Keep scrolling, because you'll also find recommendations for grabbing a quick bite to eat once you're finished.

Where are we headed?

Why now?

In its peak year of 1924, a staggering 109,185,650 passengers rode Los Angeles’ premier streetcar line, the Pacific Electric Red Car. Up until 1955, one of its most popular routes was from downtown to Glendale, with a stop on the east bank of the Los Angeles River.

While we can’t go back in time and ride the trolley (at least, not yet), we can at least experience ephemeral reminders of its former glory in Atwater Village, a place where the past comfortably commingles with the vibrant present.

Quickly, what can I expect?

• Route conditions: Nearly all flat, paved sidewalks and walkways (with the option to detour on unpaved trails at Sunnynook River Park)
• Difficulty: An easy 1 on a scale of 1 to 5
• Distance: About 2.5 miles, with the option to add on more if desired
• Dog friendly: Yes, and you'll walk by the Morrison Restaurant which touts its dog-friendly patio.
• Parking: Street parking, free
• Bathrooms: Several opportunities to stop in at businesses along the way, so you might want bring a few singles to tip in exchange for using the facilities.

Map it!

OK, let's get started ...

Nostalgia is a funny thing. Many Angelenos — myself included — were not even alive during the Red Car era, yet we pine for the trolley’s re-emergence. As Southern California Railway Museum puts it, Los Angeles was home to America's largest electric railway system, "blanketing the Los Angeles region with more than 1,000 miles of rail lines."

This loop through Atwater Village kicks off at Red River Park, a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it sliver of green just east of the Glendale-Hyperion Bridge where the Red Car once crossed over to the center median of Glendale Boulevard.

The entrance to this walking area sneaks up on you. It's easy to miss, especially when there are many cars parked along the street.

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It leads to a 430-foot-long pedestrian and cycling bridge over the L.A. River, reinforcing the adage “what’s old is new.” After the last train rumbled over the river, the tracks were ripped up, leaving behind several concrete stanchions protruding from the water.

What it used to look like

What it looked like back in the day: A vintage shot of the Pacific Electric Railway Company streetcar crossing the Los Angeles River on the Glendale Line on April 17, 1952.

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What it looks like today

You'll walk across this pedestrian bridge to get to the other side of the L.A. River, and enjoy walking along the bike trail. Just stay to the far right.

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Forlorn and purposeless, the pillars got a new lease on life when the Red Car Bridge, upon which you will tread as you walk across it, was laid over them in 2020. The viaduct’s decorative red stripes are a winking tribute to the erstwhile trolleys.

After you step off the bridge, being mindful of cyclists, turn right on the L.A. River bicycle path. The river factors into Atwater’s etymology: When it was subdivided in 1902, the tract was advertised as “at-water.” You'll pass under the Glendale-Hyperion Bridge, a 13-arch work of art designed by Merrill Butler in 1927.

What makes this stretch of the L.A. River special

Up ahead, Sunnynook River Park emerges on your left. Pause if you like to stroll its paths of restored native vegetation along the bike path. The park’s riparian trees are in keeping with the Glendale Narrows, the name given to an 11-mile stretch through Northeast L.A. While much of the L.A. River is encased in concrete, this section boasts a natural soft bottom, much to the delight of the herons and egrets who feast on fish (and to you, who delight in herons and egrets).

Once you've taken in the park, you'll cross back over the river via an older pedestrian bridge. Officially called the Sunnynook Bridge, it’s better known as the Love Lock Bridge. You'll find dozens of locks fastened to the fencing. It’s a place for soulmates to solidify their love, minus the potential regret of lifelong tattoos!

That pedestrian bridge crossing back over the river? That's where you're headed.

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The entrance to the footbridge back over the L.A. River.

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This is a popular place for lovers to leave behind a padlock.

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Once you're off the footbridge, you'll turn left and contine walking along the banks of the L.A. River, to Los Feliz Boulevard.

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When you step off this pedestrian bridge, turn left and continue on the river's walkway.

Then, exit and turn right onto Los Feliz Boulevard.

The next few blocks feature mom-and-pop stores and two iconic theme establishments — Bigfoot Lodge and the Tam O’Shanter.

The Disney connection

Occupying the corner of Los Feliz and Boyce Avenue since 1922, the Tam was designed by Harry Oliver, an Oscar-nominated art director who also took on non-studio clients. Oliver was a leading architect of the Storybook style. As the name implies, its structures were defined by crooked windows, pitched roofs, and whimsical flourishes — think Hansel and Gretel’s fairy tale house, or the real-life "Witch's House" in Beverly Hills (also designed by Oliver).

If you look closely, you can still see Walt Disney's fingerprints at the Tam.

The original Disney studio was just over the river in Silver Lake. Walt Disney himself (and his animators) frequented the roadhouse so often that the Tam was the de facto studio commissary. In fact, Disney’s legacy is well-preserved in the lobby of Tam O'Shanter's.

Sketches of Mickey Mouse and his gang hang on the walls, including one drawn by Walt himself. (Book a dinner reservation for later: A plaque memorializes Walt’s favorite table — the much-sought-after Table 31 — near the fireplace.)

One could see how the restaurant appealed to Walt. How much so is debatable, but there are clear parallels between the Tam and the whole Village Haus portion of Disneyland’s Fantasyland. A more direct link is the Hyperion-Glendale Bridge near this route's trailhead, and which led to Disney’s studio back in the day: A replica of it extends over Buena Vista Street at Disney California Adventure.

What's with all the turns?

After checking out the Tam, regroup back at the intersection of Los Feliz Boulevard and Boyce Avenue. You want to head southeast on Boyce Avenue. (Don't know which direction is southeast? As you walked up Los Feliz Boulevard and came upon the Tam, you would have turned right onto Boyce Avenue. So do that.)

Then, make your first right, onto Dover Street, and then take your second left, onto Edenhurst Avenue.

Why this zig-zag route?

It takes you through the heart of Atwater’s residential district, where you can enjoy some of the prettiest homes around. Deodar cedar trees provide ample shade as you take in an array of architectural styles dominated by 1920s Spanish-style bungalows, perfectly suited for the village’s relatively small lots.

Why Glendale Boulevard is so wide

A colorful building at the intersection of Edenhurt Street and Glendale Boulevard is painted in a variety of hues, a hint of the relaxed, breezy style this community is known for.

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Six blocks later, you'll find yourself at Glendale Boulevard, whose wide center median once served the Red Car tracks that ran through here.

Fortunately, Atwater’s main drag has staved off the type of decline that has gutted other L.A. business districts, thanks to its diverse and creative community, strong neighborhood pride, and a good mix of essential and trendy retailers that appeals to both locals and outsiders.

Here, you have a decision to make. You can turn right onto Glendale Boulevard and make your way back to your car.

Or, you can browse Glendale Boulevard's many boutiques, or languish in a neighborhood bar or bistro. We have a few dining recommendations below. Heck, Red Car River Park took some 50 years to come into being; what’s a few more minutes as it awaits your return?

Done! Where to eat?

LAist's Associate Editor for Food and Culture Gab Chabrán recommends the following four places in the area to grab a bite:

Hugo's Tacos

Tacos — soft or crispy — are so popular here at Hugo's. You might almost forget everything else that's on the menu, including burritos, protein bowls and quesadillas. And then there's the torta ahogada, served on a Mexican sandwich roll layered with beans, guac, your protein choice, veggies, and then griddled in a honey chipotle dressing.

Dune

Dune is known for its Mediterranean breakfasts — avocado toast with tomato confit on Bub and Grandma's sourdough — and fried chicken shawarma, as well as lavish meze plates made for sharing.

Proof Bakery

Proof Bakery is a slice of carb heaven. And it has plenty for those with a savory tooth as well as a sweet tooth. In additional to favorites such as croissants and fruit danishes, scones, and coffee cakes, there are also sandwiches, too, including a focaccia BLT.

Holy Basil

Considered to be some of the best Thai food in L.A. But Holy Basil is really all about chef Wedchayan “Deau” Arpapornnopparat's channeling of Thai flavors and Chinese influences into something uniquely original. The "Grandma's fish and rice" — the chef's beloved dish from childhood — is a favorite.

Where to next?

Any suggestions for great hikes in and around L.A.? Don't keep it to yourself! Let us know, and we might check them out for a future story.

Haddad is the author of the hiking bible 10,000 Steps A Day in LA and the upcoming Inventing Paradise: The Power Brokers Who Created the Dream of Los Angeles. Read more about Haddad here.

In the wake of the Eaton Fire, Altadena and Pasadena’s music community have really shown up to support fire survivors, especially fellow musicians who lost instruments and record collections.

That effort continues this weekend with a special donation concert at a Pasadena record store, with the aim of getting vinyl records back in the hands of survivors who lost their collections.

“You know, our name is Healing Force of the Universe, and I think that gives me a pretty clear direction… especially after the fires,” said Austin Manuel, founder of Pasadena record store, where Sunday’s show will be held.

The record donation effort is the brainchild of musician Brandon Jay, who founded the nonprofit Altadena Musicians after losing his home and almost all of his family’s instruments in the Eaton Fire. Through Altadena Musicians’s donation and registry platform, Jay said he and his partners have helped some 1,200 fire survivors get their music instruments back.

Brandon Jay.

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Now, that effort has fanned out to restoring vinyl record collections.

“All of that stuff evaporated for thousands of people,” Jay said. “Look at your own record collection and be like, ‘Wow, what if that whole thing disappeared?’”

You might know Jay from several bands over the years, including Lutefisk, a 1990s alt-rock band based in Los Angeles. He and his wife, Gwendolyn Sanford, composed music for TV shows, including Orange is the New Black and Weeds.

Jay plans to play some holiday tunes at Sunday's record donation show (which LAist is the media sponsor), along with fellow musician Daniel Brummel of Sanglorians. Brummel, who was also a founding member of Pasadena’s indie-rock sensation Ozma, said he was grateful to Jay for his fire recovery work and to Manuel for making Healing Force available for shows like this.

Brummel, who came close to losing his own home in the Eaton Fire, recalled a show he played at Healing Force back in March.

Ryen Slegr (left) and Daniel Brummel perform with their band, Ozma, on the 2014 Weezer Cruise.

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“The trauma of the fires was still really fresh,” Brummel said. After playing a cover of Rufus Wainwright’s “Going to a Town,” that night — which includes the lyrics “I’m going to a town that has already been burnt down” — Brummel said his neighbors in the audience told him the rendition hit them hard. “It felt really powerful. And without that space, it just wouldn’t have occurred.”

Details

Healing Force of the Universe Record Donation Show
Featuring: Quasar (aka Brandon Jay), Sanglorians (Daniel Brummel) and The Acrylic.
Sunday, Dec. 14; 2 to 5 p.m.
1200 E. Walnut St., Pasadena
Tickets are $15 or you can donate 5 or more records at the door. More info here.

Topline:

The case: In September, the city settled a lawsuit brought forward by two brothers in their 70s who said they suffered serious injuries after an LAPD officer crashed into their car. Days before the $18 million settlement was reached, lawyers for the brothers said Feldstein Soto called an expert witness testifying for the plaintiffs and “attempted to ingratiate herself with him and asked him to make a contribution to her political campaign,” according to a sworn declaration to the court by the plaintiffs’ attorney, Robert Glassman.

The response: Feldstein Soto did not respond to an interview request. Her spokesperson said the settlement “had nothing to do” with the expert witness. Her campaign manager told LAist the city attorney had been making a routine fundraising call and did not know the person had a role in the case, nor that there were pending requests for her office to pay him fees.

What Jurado says: In a statement to LAist, Jurado said she wants to “make sure that the city’s legal leadership is guided by integrity and accountability, especially when their choices affect public trust, civic rights and the city’s limited resources."

What’s next: The motion needs to go through a few committees before reaching the full City Council. If it passes, the motion calls for the city attorney to “report to council in closed session within 45 days regarding the ethics breach violation and give updates to the City Council."

Every year in Santa Ana, Luis Cantabrana turns the front of his home into an elaborate altar in honor of La Virgen de Guadalupe that draws hundreds of visitors.

Along the front of the house, the multi-colored altar is filled with lights, flowers and a stained-glass tapestry behind a sculpture of the Lady of Guadalupe. Cantabrana’s roof also is lit up with the green, white and red lights that spell out “Virgen de Guadalupe” and a cross.

Visitors are welcomed with music and the smell of roses as they celebrate the saint, but this year’s gathering comes after a dark year for immigrant communities.

Luis Cantabrana stands in front of the stunning altar he built in front of his home in honor of La Virgen de Guadalupe. Every year, his display draws hundreds of visitors.

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Why do they celebrate? 

In 1513, the Virgin Mary appeared before St. Juan Diego between Dec. 9 and Dec. 12, asking him to build a church in her honor. Her image — a brown-skinned woman wearing a green veil with her hands together in prayer and an angel at her feet — miraculously appeared on his cloak.

To celebrate in Santa Ana, worshippers gathered late-night Wednesday and in the very early hours Dec. 12 to pray the rosary, sing hymns and celebrate the saint.

Cantabrana has hosted worshippers at his home for 27 years — 17 in Santa Ana.

The altar started out small, he said, and over the years, he added a fabric background, more lights and flowers (lots and lots of flowers).

“It started with me making a promise to la Virgen de Guadalupe that while I had life and a home to build an altar, that I would do it,” Cantabrana said. “Everything you see in photos and videos is pretty, but when you come and see it live, it's more than pretty. It's beautiful.”

The Santa Ana home's elaborate altar in honor of La Virgen de Guadalupe draws hundreds of visitors each year.

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Gathering in a time of turmoil 

Many also look to the Lady of Guadalupe for protection, especially at a time when federal enforcement has rattled immigrant communities.

“People don’t want to go to work, they don’t want to take their kids to school, but the love we have for our Virgen de Guadalupe,” Cantabrana said. “We see that la Virgen de Guadalupe has a lot of power, and so we know immigration [enforcement] won’t come here.”

Margarita Lopez of Garden Grove has been visiting the altar for three years with her husband. She’s been celebrating the Virgencita since she was a young girl. Honoring the saint is as important now as ever, she said.

“We ask, and she performs miracles,” Lopez said.

Claudia Tapia, a lifelong Santa Ana resident, said the Virgin Mary represents strength.

“Right now, with everything going on, a lot of our families [have] turned and prayed to the Virgen for strength during these times,” Tapia said. “She's a very strong symbol of Mexican culture, of unity, of faith and of resilience.”

See it for yourself

The shrine will stay up into the new year on the corner of Broadway and Camile Street.