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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • Changes at this agency signal pro-building shift
    Large homes and apartment buildings near and overlook a bluff to the ocean. There is a beach in between.
    An aerial view of houses along a coastal bluff at Boneyard Beach in Encinitas on Sept. 3, 2024.

    Topline:

    Three new pro-development appointees at the powerful Coastal Commission are trying to remedy its poor reputation among housing activists and Democratic leaders.

    Why now: In a push to address the state’s gripping housing crisis, the California Coastal Commission last week approved a rule change to make it easier to build affordable housing in Monterey and elsewhere along the hundreds of miles of the Pacific coast.

    Why it matters: It was the latest effort by the powerful state agency to combat its poor reputation among housing advocates and Democratic leaders who see it as an obstacle to drastic housing reform in California’s coveted coastal regions. While minor and uncontroversial, the amendment was one of a few shifts the commission has made in recent months in an effort to be viewed as playing a part in addressing the state’s crippling housing crisis.

    Read on... how the commission got here.

    Bone-colored bluffs and jagged cliffs line the Monterey shoreline where chalky sand meets redwoods.

    Its rugged coastline, including beloved destinations such as Big Sur, is well-known California iconography protected by the California Coastal Act for nearly 50 years.

    In a push to address the state’s gripping housing crisis, the California Coastal Commission last week approved a rule change to make it easier to build affordable housing in Monterey and elsewhere along the hundreds of miles of the Pacific coast.

    It was the latest effort by the powerful state agency to combat its poor reputation among housing advocates and Democratic leaders who see it as an obstacle to drastic housing reform in California’s coveted coastal regions. While minor and uncontroversial, the amendment was one of a few shifts the commission has made in recent months in an effort to be viewed as playing a part in addressing the state’s crippling housing crisis.

    It released a report for the first time in 2024 that showed local governments were responsible for approving the vast majority of permits in coastal regions, and this year the agency worked with housing activists to make it easier to build student housing in coastal cities. Nor did the coastal commission oppose the landmark housing reform law that excludes most new developments from environmental review.

    “I think it’s going to have a real-life change,” Susan Jordan, a longtime conservation activist and founder of the California Coastal Protection Network, said of the regulatory amendment at the meeting.

    Reputation rehab: Steps toward more housing

    Twelve people — six local elected officials and six members of the public — vote on the independent, quasi-judicial state agency tasked with conserving more than 800 miles of the California coast and keeping it open to the public. Its authority spans about 1,000 yards inland from where the land meets the water at high tide.

    The commission has faced relentless scrutiny in recent years for not permitting enough affordable housing in coastal cities, or doing so too slowly, as state lawmakers have stripped numerous housing regulations to make it easier to build more apartments.

    Gov. Gavin Newsom, a critic of the commission, and other Democratic leaders have appointed three pro-development local officials this year to help get more housing and other developments approved along the Pacific coast.

    In October, Newsom appointed wealthy real estate developer Jaime Lee to replace Effie Turnbull Sanders. An attorney appointed by former Gov. Jerry Brown, Sanders was lauded by environmentalists for heralding environmental justice policies to the agency.

    Assembly Speaker Robert Rivas, a Salinas Democrat, named two pro-development appointees to the commission in May: Chris Lopez, a Monterey County supervisor, and Chula Vista councilmember Jose Preciado.

    Ray Jackson, a Hermosa Beach councilmember, was appointed earlier this year by Democratic Senate President Pro Tem Mike McGuire of Santa Rosa, and is largely a skeptic of big developers.

    In a unanimous vote last week, Peciado, Lopez and Jackson each approved changing the commission’s rules to give affordable housing projects in coastal areas more time to be built, from two to five years after permits are issued. Lee was not at the Nov. 6 meeting.

    Staff and commissioners hailed the change as a step in the right direction for affordable housing developments that cannot be financed quickly enough under the previous two-year deadline.

    “I think next year would be a good opportunity to roll out an education campaign in the Legislature to highlight some of the movements we made toward this,” Commissioner Linda Escalante said. “I don’t know if we can have a white paper that we can walk around with and figure out some of the reputation issues that we have.”

    A history of protecting the coastline

    Critics of the commission point to the exorbitant coastal housing prices, some of the highest in the country, and the disproportionate number of white residents, as exacerbating the housing shortage. To some, the commission’s priorities have not matched the urgency of lawmakers and local officials to help solve the cost problem.

    Two-thirds of coastal residents are white, about twice as many as in the state as a whole, according to an analysis by Nicholas Depsky at the United Nations Development Programme.

    Fewer than 2.5% of California residents live in coastal cities, or “coastal zones,” which comprise less than 1% of land in the state but are home to some of the most valuable real estate in the world, from Malibu to Marin.

    Waves crashing on a beach with homes right in front of it. There are bluffs with homes on them in the background.
    Waves break near beach homes in Malibu on Dec. 28, 2023.
    (
    Damian Dovarganes
    /
    AP Photo
    )

    The Coastal Commission began as a 1972 ballot initiative in the shadow of the 1969 Santa Barbara oil spill, one of the worst environmental disasters in the country at the time. Amid a broader national environmental movement, there was greater concern about how to protect California’s coveted shoreline in the midst of unregulated offshore drilling and fears of relentless development that would mirror Miami’s coastline.

    Four years later, the state Legislature made the commission permanent with the Coastal Act to protect its natural habitats and keep beaches open to the public.

    Early tensions between then-Gov. Jerry Brown and the commission brewed when he slammed its members as "bureaucratic thugs” in 1978, just years after championing its creation. Brown would spend his final years in office, nearly 40 years later, roiled by criticism from environmentalists who accused him of appointing commissioners who were too pro-development. Those fears were heightened with the ousting of executive director Charles Lester in 2016, a strong advocate for coastal protection.

    Scrutiny of the commission has accelerated in the Newsom administration, as the governor has publicly chided the agency for its broad powers. After the Los Angeles fires, he swiftly moved to suspend all of its authority over rebuilding efforts in the Pacific Palisades, which abut the coastline.

    Last year, the commission rejected billionaire Elon Musk’s proposal to increase the number of SpaceX rocket launches off the Santa Barbara coast while criticizing his support of President Donald Trump. Newsom said he was “with Elon” after the company filed a lawsuit for political discrimination. The case is still pending.

    Lee, the newest commissioner, hails from Los Angeles and has built a reputation as a prolific builder known for revitalizing Koreatown. Her real estate company, Jamison properties, has built 6,600 multifamily units and is one of the largest private landowners in Los Angeles, according to its website.

    Lee did not return emails and phone calls seeking comment from CalMatters.

    The new appointments have made many pro-housing advocates hopeful. “We now have three out of 12 voting members who are appointed to the commission in this period when many legislators and the governor want reform at the commission to design more affordable housing,” said Louis Mirante, a lobbyist with the business coalition Bay Area Council. “That tells me that these members will probably move that vision forward.”

    Lopez, who has emphasized his support for affordable housing on the coast since joining the commission, said the optimism is warranted.

    “I think that that excitement is well placed given where we’re sitting at right now and given the voice that the speaker and the governor are giving at this issue and wanting to see a remedy to it,” Lopez said. “And I do feel it’s the reason I was put here was to have that conversation at the forefront.”

    Environmental advocates watch

    Environmentalists have mostly been quiet about the new appointments. Instead, they are waiting to see how they vote before raising the alarm.

    “While there have been concerns expressed within the environmental movement, at this point we have no idea how this commissioner (Lee) will be,” said Jennifer Savage, associate director of Surfrider Foundation, a coastal protection advocacy group. Lee was not an obvious choice for many, but Savage is optimistic that she’ll support coastal protection.

    “It’s actually not that surprising that the governor would appoint someone with housing expertise,” given the political climate, she continued.

    A longtime local water authority official and current administrator at San Diego State University, Preciado said part of his pitch for the role to top Democratic leaders was that he wanted to see more of the coast developed to help create jobs and homes for working-class families.

    “We have a keen interest in developing the California coast in such a way where underrepresented communities that live on the coast have more access,” Preciado said of himself and Lopez.

    Wealthy coastal residents have long sparred with the commission over violations for blocking public access, such as Silicon Valley billionaire Vinod Khosla, who has been entangled in a slew of legal fights with regulators and coastal groups for years over access to Martins Beach near Half Moon Bay.

    A road, with plants on a mountain on each side, heads towards a beach with large rocks in the water.
    An empty road leading to Martins Beach near Half Moon Bay on Aug. 29, 2017.
    (
    Karl Mondon
    /
    Bay Area News Group
    )

    Many commissioners and staff view protecting public access and conservation as their primary purpose rather than housing policy.

    Conservationism is out of style, even among Democrats, which has led support for the commission to dramatically shift in recent years, according to legislative director Sarah Christie.

    To some commissioners, lawmakers’ push to rip away more and more of its housing authority is a misguided attempt to simplify a complex issue. They point out that 80% of coastal cities and counties have their own coastal laws and are not subject to the commission.

    “It’s creating a lot of chaos and dysfunction at the local level and is making it harder,” Christie said of the movement toward slashing housing regulations. “In the Legislature’s enthusiasm and zeal in order to effectuate housing more quickly, they’re kind of stepping on themselves.”

    Jackson, a commissioner who represents the South Bay, said lawmakers need to focus more on affordable housing rather than increasing supply more broadly.

    Special environmental considerations and its highly sought after nature are what make the coastal zone uniquely expensive, Preciado said. “I think that a broader view, a more objective view, is that developing on the coast is different than developing in urban areas.”

    This article was originally published on CalMatters and was republished under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives license.

  • Mountain lion captured near animal crossing
    A close up of a mountain lion with its mouth open
    A mountain lion was recently capture near the upcoming site of the Wallis Annenberg Wildlife Crossing.

    Topline:

    A mountain lion, tagged P-129, was recently captured near the Wallis Annenberg Wildlife Crossing construction site.

    Why it matters: She is the third mountain lion to be captured through the crossing site, and the first since construction started. Its capture at that very location substantiates the goal of crossing itself — to create a bridge to connect the Santa Monica mountains bifurcated by the 101 for animals to roam.

    Read on ... to find details about P-129 and the state of construction.


    The Wallis Annenberg Wildlife Crossing in Agoura Hills isn’t slated to open until Fall 2026, but there’s already been a wild discovery near the forested overpass.

    National Park Service biologists recently captured and collared a female mountain lion, now named P-129, inside the construction site of the forthcoming crossing.

    She is the third mountain lion to be captured through the crossing site, and the first since construction started.

    A drone footage aerial view of the Wildlife Crossing site in progress taken on December 6, 2025. Shrubbery and dirt pathways can be seen on the overpass; it is surrounded by the 101 Freeway.
    Anaerial view of the Wildlife Crossing site in progress taken on December 6, 2025.
    (
    Caltrans
    /
    Beth Pratt
    )

    “The mountain lion was captured and tracked and traveling right around the Wallis Annenberg Wildlife Crossing — right inside of it,” said Beth Pratt, Regional Executive Director of the National Wildlife Federation, one of the organizations that's managing construction of the project.

    “To actually capture one right in the site of the crossing being built was pretty special,” she added.

    A Puma’s path

    P-129 was captured as part of the National Park Services’ Puma research project.

    Scientists with the service have been studying mountain lions in the Santa Monica Mountains and surrounding region since 2002. It’s one of the longest continuous urban mountain lion studies.

    “The knowledge that the Park Service has gleaned from these decades of research have helped us understand how they travel and use the landscape in the Santa Monica Mountains,” Pratt told LAist.

    The soon-to-be completed wildlife crossing that will go over the 101 freeway was set in motion because of research done by the Puma project.

    Although the crossing is intended for all wildlife, mountain lions are the ones most at risk from isolation caused by the freeway, said Pratt. The discovery of genetic degradation among mountain lions is what raised alarm bells that prompted the construction of the overpass.

    In 2020, birth defects began manifesting in tracking data. Kink tails, only one descended testis, and the degradation of sperm quality all pointed to the next inevitable development: sterility.

    Indeed, Pratt said a major goal of the crossing is to bring "dates" — mating partners — for these mountain lions who are living in the Santa Monica mountains.

    Coming next Fall

    Construction workers for the Wallis Annenberg Wildlife Crossing continue work on the project. Heavy duty construction equipment is pictured on the site. Two workers surround the machinery while two others watch them from above.
    Construction workers for the Wallis Annenberg Wildlife Crossing continue work on the project.
    (
    Caltrans
    /
    Beth Pratt
    )

    The crossing has been under construction since 2022 and is on track to open next Fall. The main structure over the 101 has been completed, with a habitat of native plants growing on top.

    Right now, Pratt said underway is a massive utility relocation of electricity, water, and gas lines.

    “We have to move those utility lines out of the way, and then the secondary structure over Agoura Road is being constructed as well,” she said.

    With the big unveiling in sight, the team is now taking bets on which animal will make its maiden passage next year.

    “It could be [P-129], or it could be the dominant male in the area," Pratt said. "Or it could be a new cat that we don’t even know.”

  • Sponsored message
  • How to protect yourself

    Topline:

    In a recent AARP survey of nearly 2,000 U.S. adults, nearly 9 out of 10 reported being targeted by or falling for some type of scam during the holiday season in the past year.

    Why it matters: Common schemes included fake shipping notifications, stolen packages and fake charity and donation requests.

    Read on ... on how to spot these scams and to protect yourself.

    It's easy to lose our critical thinking skills around the holidays. In a frenzy of last-minute gift shopping and travel bookings, we can be more anxious, more distracted and more vulnerable.

    "There's a lot of hustle and bustle during the holiday season, so there's a lot more opportunities for scammers to steal from us," says Amy Nofziger, senior director of Fraud Victim Support at the AARP Fraud Watch Network, a fraud prevention service.

    In a recent AARP survey of nearly 2,000 U.S. adults, nearly 9 out of 10 reported being targeted by or falling for some type of scam during the holiday season in the past year. Common schemes included fake shipping notifications, stolen packages and fake charity and donation requests.

    Being aware of the tactics that scammers use this time of year can safeguard you from falling victim to fraud, Nofziger says. She shares four types of scams her team has seen this season.

    Fake retail ads on social media

    Scammers open stores on social media platforms for a limited period of time. They sell fake branded clothing or jewelry and use stolen logos or similar domain names to appear authentic. The store might disappear shortly after you've placed your order.

    How to protect yourself: "If you're using a vendor that you haven't normally used, take the name of the vendor, put it in a new search, type the words 'scam,' 'fraud' and 'complaint' after it, and use other shoppers' experiences with the company to guide your own," Nofziger says.

    She recommends always using a credit card to pay for online goods. "You have greater consumer protections," she says, meaning, in the event you fall for a scam, you can have an easier time getting your money back.

    Fake gift cards

    If you're looking to buy a gift card for someone, know that it is possible for scammers to get the gift card number and PIN before you buy it.

    "They actually remove stacks of gift cards off of the card carousels, log every gift card number and PIN into their system, then load those gift cards back onto the carousels," says Nofziger.

    If you add money onto one of these cards, scammers are notified and able to instantly withdraw it. "You could not even have left the store yet and that money could be drained," she says.

    How to protect yourself: Nofziger recommends buying gift cards that are close to the front of the store and might have had more eyes watching them. She also suggests purchasing electronic gift cards instead of physical cards that can be tampered with.

    Fake delivery texts

    It's more common to receive unexpected packages around the holidays, and scammers will use that to their advantage, says Nofziger.

    "They'll send out fake notifications saying that they're from a shipping company and that there's a problem with your account," like a missing piece of your address, she says. "But most of the time, if there's a problem with a package, you will hear directly from the vendor."

    How to protect yourself: If you receive an unexpected text message from a shipping company like UPS or FedEx asking for your personal information, Nofziger's advice is to reach out separately to the company's customer service line and confirm that a package is indeed coming your way. You can also verify your address directly through their website.

    Usually, "this is nothing but a phishing scam," she says, or an attempt to dupe you into sharing personal information.

    Travel deals too good to be true

    Travel prices can get expensive around the holidays, leading some to search online for better deals. But Nofziger says to be wary of suspiciously cheap fares and travel websites you haven't used before.

    Nofziger's team receives a lot of reports about car rental scams. "People think they're getting a great deal, but they have to prepay with a prepaid gift card," she says. "Then they get to their location and there's no car."

    How to protect yourself: She recommends sticking to vendors you have a preexisting relationship with and vetting any new travel website you might use.

    Ultimately, if you fall for any of these scams, know that it's common. "Be proactive and report it as quickly as possible," says Nofziger. You can report the incident to local law enforcement, the Federal Trade Commission and the AARP Fraud Watch Network.


    The digital story was edited by Malaka Gharib, with art direction by Beck Harlan. We'd love to hear from you. Leave us a voicemail at 202-216-9823, or email us at LifeKit@npr.org.

    Listen to Life Kit on Apple Podcasts and Spotify, and sign up for our newsletter. Follow us on Instagram: @nprlifekit.

    Copyright 2025 NPR

  • Trio of top contenders lead race for open seat
    a trio of side-by-side photos, with a woman in a suit jacket standing at a microphone, a man in a blue button-up shirt, and a man in glasses, a brown suit jacket and blue tie
    San Francisco Supervisor Connie Chan (left), Saikat Chakrabarti (center) and state Sen. Scott Wiener. For the first time in 38 years, San Francisco voters will have a spirited congressional race with three top candidates vying for Nancy Pelosi’s House seat.

    Topline:

    With Speaker Emerita Nancy Pelosi not running for reelection, San Francisco is about to experience its most spirited congressional race since 1987, when Pelosi beat 13 candidates to fill the seat left open by the death of Rep. Sala Burton.

    Who are the top contenders? So far, three very different candidates have emerged as the top contenders to represent Pelosi’s district. They are San Francisco Supervisor Connie Chan, state Sen. Scott Wiener and software engineer Saikat Chakrabarti.

    Read on ... for more about each of the top candidates and what's at stake in this race.

    With Speaker Emerita Nancy Pelosi not running for reelection, San Francisco is about to experience its most spirited congressional race since 1987, when Pelosi beat 13 candidates to fill the seat left open by the death of Rep. Sala Burton.

    The 85-year-old Democrat leaves behind a historic record of accomplishment — from the power she achieved as a caucus leader and Speaker to delivering significant legislative victories, including passage of the Affordable Care Act, and her unparalleled ability to criticize President Donald Trump.

    “Nancy Pelosi was the most effective speaker of the modern era, a legendary political thinker and strategist,” said Brian Hanlon, co-founder and CEO of California YIMBY, a pro-housing group. “And San Francisco punches way above its weight in terms of both national and state politics. So, who is San Francisco going to put in this seat?”

    So far, three very different candidates have emerged as the top contenders to represent Pelosi’s district, which encompasses most of the city, except a southern slice that includes the Excelsior, Visitacion Valley and Oceanview neighborhoods.

    The leading candidates

    Connie Chan

    San Francisco supervisor, District 1

    The 47-year-old Democrat represents the northern section of San Francisco, including the Richmond District. Chan, who was born in Hong Kong and came to the U.S. as a teenager, is leaning into her biography as the basis of her candidacy.

    “As a first-generation immigrant, I have the lived experience, understanding the challenges that immigrant community faces, and most definitely during this time, when we see the Trump administration sending ICE agents to our streets and also in courtroom, firing our immigration court judges so that they can detain our immigrants illegally,” Chan told KQED. “That is, first and foremost, one of our top priorities.”

    Now in her second term on the Board of Supervisors, Chan, who once worked as an aide to former Supervisor Aaron Peskin, opposed Mayor Daniel Lurie’s Family Zoning Plan, which allows denser housing in neighborhoods like the Richmond, where single-family homes dominate. She also opposed a voter-approved ballot measure to close part of the Great Highway and create a public park, and supports sending the issue back to voters.

    Scott Wiener

    State senator 

    Now in his eighth year in Sacramento, Wiener has championed landmark legislation to facilitate — even mandate — more housing construction in California, a position that has won him both support and criticism.

    By any standard, Wiener, 55, is a prolific legislator. This year alone, 12 of his bills were passed and signed by Gov. Gavin Newsom. In an evaluation of state lawmakers across the country, Wiener was ranked as the most effective member of the California State Senate by the nonpartisan Center for Effective Lawmaking, a project of the University of Virginia and Vanderbilt University.

    Wiener, who is openly gay, said it is “definitely time” for the city’s LGBTQ+ community to elect one of its own to Congress. He would be the first openly gay representative from San Francisco in the House.

    Saikat Chakrabarti

    Software engineer and political activist

    Chakrabarti, 39, jumped into the race before Pelosi announced her retirement, saying it was time for a new generation of leaders for the Democratic Party. Wiener also entered the race before Pelosi made her plans public.

    After making millions of dollars as one of the first software engineers at the payment processing company Stripe, Chakrabarti worked on Sen. Bernie Sanders’ 2016 presidential campaign and later became chief of staff to progressive icon Rep. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez.

    “I think I’m the only one willing to challenge the Democratic party establishment,” Chakrabarti told KQED this week. “People know that the Democratic party needs a new direction, it needs new ideas and it needs solutions that are as big as the problems that we face. And that’s what I’m offering the voters.”

    What voters care about

    “Affordability” is the mantra for Democratic candidates across the country, and this race will be no different. Chan, who criticizes Wiener’s “Sacramento version of affordable housing” in her campaign announcement video, will emphasize affordability as it relates to housing, but also in health care and child care.

    Chakrabarti, who said he is more pro-housing than Chan, supports the controversial plan to build 800 units of housing above a Safeway in the Marina.

    As expected, all three candidates promise strong opposition to Trump’s policies, including ICE raids, mass deportations and federal budget cuts. Wiener, who authored a new law banning ICE agents from wearing face coverings and bills supporting trans students, is a frequent target of right-wing hatred. He wears it like a badge of honor, and even has a “Scott’s MAGA Fan Club” section on his campaign site highlighting attacks by Tucker Carlson, Marjorie Taylor Greene and other conservatives.

    While housing is largely a local issue, defense spending is not — and U.S. funding for Israel could become a contentious topic. Wiener, who is Jewish, has been outspoken about antisemitism while trying to strike a balance between Israel’s right to exist and opposing its war in Gaza.

    Chakrabarti has made Palestinian rights a centerpiece of his campaign.

    “I’m opposed to military funding in Israel as long as the genocide continues,” he said.

    Chan has also said she would not support sending “weapons of war” to Israel, calling the situation in Gaza a human rights violation that she believes meets the legal definition of genocide.

    Money, endorsements — and Pelosi’s shadow

    The success or failure of a campaign depends on many factors, including name recognition, their record, voter enthusiasm, endorsements and resources.

    Chakrabarti is the least well-known of the candidates, but he has access to enormous personal wealth to self-fund his campaign. Since this is his first run for office, he mostly points to his work behind the scenes, including his role in helping promote the Green New Deal, which he said helped center climate change as the key environmental issue.

    “It’s going to take a movement of candidates and people to make this happen,” he said. “But I think that’s what’s possible right now, and that’s why I’m running.”

    Chan, who is running for the first time outside a relatively small district, could face fundraising challenges. But her relationships with local unions, such as Unite Here Local 2, which represents workers in the hospitality industry, could help with campaign cash and volunteers.

    Wiener has been raising money for a potential congressional run since 2023, reporting more than $1 million raised through September, according to federal campaign finance data. He said fundraising accelerated significantly after Pelosi announced her retirement.

    It’s not clear if Pelosi herself will put her thumb on the scale for one of her would-be successors. Among the candidates, she seems most aligned with Chan, who has appeared alongside her at recent public events.

    An endorsement from the San Francisco Democratic Party could provide a major boost. But that’s a significant hurdle, as it requires support from 60% of local delegates.

    Local party chair Nancy Tung, a leader of the party’s more moderate wing, thinks only one candidate could conceivably win an endorsement.

    “It’s within the realm of possibility that Scott Wiener would actually get the endorsement,” Tung told KQED this week. “I think he’s probably got the best chance.”

    In the June primary, voters will decide which two candidates will advance to the November general election in the race for this solid Democratic seat.

  • LA city owns tons of silver screen artifacts
    A large group of people gathered closely together, likely at an event or public gathering. Most individuals are dressed in formal or semi-formal attire typical of mid-20th century fashion. Many men are wearing suits, ties, and wide-brimmed hats, while several women are seen in coats, scarves, and stylish hats.
    German-born American actress Marlene Dietrich (center) is surrounded by fans July 14, 1939, during the Bastille Day ball at Paris Opera Square. About 100 pieces of clothing and accessories Dietrich worn in films and in her person life are part of a collection of memorabilia owned by the city of L.A.

    Topline:

    Los Angeles is synonymous with Hollywood. But did you know the city owns thousands of pieces of artifacts from vintage Hollywood?

    The backstory: It began in around the 1960s and a failed dream to create a museum to house memorabilia culled from production houses, studios and stars themselves numbering in the thousands.

    Why now:  The city of L.A. recently extended a loan agreement of some 300 garments and accessories with ASU FIDM Museum downtown, which stores, restores and conserves these pieces of Hollywood history.

    Read on ... to learn more about this collection and see photos.

    A pair of brown leather shoes worn by Oscar-winning actor Ingrid Bergman in the 1948 film, Joan of Arc. A couple red togas with gold leaf embroidery thespian Laurence Olivier likely donned in the 1960 epic Spartacus. A leather briefcase used by the great Cecil B. DeMille between 1920 and 1940. A pair of Levi's from 1952 worn by Gary Cooper.

    Those are just a handful of clothing and accessories — hats, shoes, scarfs, gowns and more — from old Hollywood the city of Los Angeles calls its own.

    The 300-some pieces have been in the care of ASU FIDM Museum in downtown for more than three decades. The collection is open to the public, and the museum displays and lends pieces out for exhibition.

    a person wearing a suit of medieval-style armor inside what appears to be a workshop or studio. The armor includes a helmet, a breastplate, and leg armor, with the individual holding a large articulated arm piece, possibly part of the armor set. The person is dressed in dark clothing underneath the metal armor components.
    Swedish actress Ingrid Bergman tries the armor that she will wear for her role of Joan of Arc, a movie directed by Victor Fleming in 1947. A pair of shoes worn by Bergman is part of a collection of memorabilia owned by the city of Los Angeles.
    (
    AFP
    /
    AFP via Getty Images
    )

    Next fall, some of the garments will be on display at an exhibition at ASU FIDM Museum on legendary costume and fashion designer Gilbert Adrian.

    Los Angeles and Hollywood are oftentimes synonymous, but how did the city of L.A. come to possess these silver screen artifacts?

    The Hollywood Museum?

    We go back to the 1960s and the broken dream to build a museum of American film and television history.

    At the center of the proposed Hollywood Museum (not to be confused with one on Highland Avenue since 2003) was the collection of artifacts and costumes culled from studios, production companies and actors themselves that numbered in the thousands.

    The exhibition space never came to pass, according to city documents, because the funding never caught up to the vision.

    An austere building that takes up an entire street block
    The empty jail in Lincoln Heights once held a collection of Hollywood memorabilia owned by the city of L.A.
    (
    Works Progress Administration Collection/Los Angeles Public Library
    )

    In 1968, L.A.'s recreation and parks department took over the collection. When private storage was price prohibitive, the garments and accessories were stocked away at the empty jail in Lincoln Heights for two decades — until the deal with the fashion institute in 1988.

    Dietrich, Astaire, Valentino...

    As part of a loan agreement with the city that has just been recently extended, ASU FIDM Museum provides services to store, conserve and restore these 300 fashion and costume objects (for an inventory, go to pg. 19) that span the 1920s to about 1970.

    There are tons of prized items in the mix — including more than a dozen pairs of dance shoes owned by Fred Astaire.

    One name you'll keep seeing is screen diva Marlene Dietrich. About 100 pieces were donated to the Hollywood Museum from a storage unit she kept in L.A., said Christina Johnson, senior curator at ASU FIDM Museum.

     "It includes pieces that she wore on film, pieces in her personal life," Johnson said.

    And sometimes, both. Like a paisley lamé evening gown created by a costume and fashion designer known by the mononym Irene.

    "There's photos I found of [Dietrich] wearing it at Ciros nightclub with her then lover Jean Gabin," Johnson said. "Then she wore it when she was part of the USO entertaining the troops during World War II."

    Dietrich purposely wore that same gown in A Foreign Affair — the 1948 Billy Wilder dark comedy set in post-war Germany.

    " It's been so many places and I think that's one reason that fashion and costume history are so important because it makes history come alive for people," Johnson said. " When I'm handling something, it really makes me reflect on, what did this person experience while wearing this?"

    Unlit Lucky Strikes

    The collection contains ribbons, sash, ties, an entire costume ensemble worn by Rudolph Valentino (leggings and all) from the 1920s, and even a torso metal armor believed to be used in both the 1925 and 1959 versions of Ben Hur.

    But probably none are more curious than the four unsmoked Lucky Strike cigarettes in their midst.

    They belonged to silent movie star Mabel Normand, who worked with Charlie Chaplin and Roscoe "Fatty" Arbuckle.

    " Her wardrobe items came in a Louis Vuitton trunk," Johnson said. "Those Lucky Strike cigarettes were in a pocket."

    Normand was a heavy smoker and eventually died from tuberculosis. Still part of the collection, the possibly century-old cigarettes are stored separately so as not to stain the garment.

    " But that's the thing, these belonged to real people who did real things," Johnson said. "And some of her unused cigarettes came with the collection."