The Brief

Picture this: a scene I've watched often as an Armenian American who's attended barbecues since childhood.

In a park, a cheerful scream of children rises as a light smoke fills the air. Picnic tables are covered with white linen, where women peel the charred skin off the vegetables.

Next to them, a group of men rotate metal skewers with carefully arranged equal pieces of pork, chicken, and beef on a mangal — a grill made for Armenian-style barbecue.

A pungent smell of charred meat and the piquant fragrance of onion and pepper rises from the grill.

The conversation touches on the latest political developments in Armenia, as some complain about the current government and others are protective.

Often, voices rise, but someone quickly suggests a toast, and all are friends around the sparkly fire once again.

To cook over an open fire

“Armenians call their style of barbecue ‘khorovats’, [which] translates into ‘cook over open fire’," says Ara Zada, chef and co-author of Lavash, a cookbook about traditional Armenian food and recipes.

Ara Zada, a chef and co-author

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Ara Zada

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“It’s more like a dance around the mangal — to know where to put meat and vegetables, where the charcoal is,” Zada adds. ‘’Your meat goes on at a different time, your chicken, your vegetables. And as you’re putting it on, moving it around on the coal itself. ”

Commonly, vegetables are cooked fast on the open fire, while the meat is added later to be charred when the fire is low, giving it its smokiness.

During Zada’s visits to Armenia, where he traveled to different villages and cities, he learned about the dishes his ancestors cooked for thousands of years and his country's barbecue history.

Chicken and beef being grilled Armenian style on a mangal grill

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Liana Grigoryan

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“In the north of Armenia, I met a barbecue champion who won most of his competitions by taking rose stems and laying them over the coals. You got little touches into the meat as it was grilling,” remembers Zada.

Armenians take khorovats so seriously that they hold festivals and contests around it — and have even dedicated a song to it, which is often played at weddings and other major happenings.

The United States of barbecue

“Barbecue is the quintessential American food,” says Jim Auchmutey, the author of Smokelore, a Short History of Barbeque in America. In his book, Jim Auchmutey tells the story of the United States through the lens of barbecue, from the colonial era, slavery, the Civil War, and immigration to the present day.

But what is American barbecue? And how did it become American?

Auchmutey has the perfect definition: everyone who uses fire and meat in this country, wherever they come from in the world.

“The way the American barbecue tradition started was because of the mingling of different cultures,” he says, pointing to the arrival of European settlers and enslaved Africans.

Brisket, ribs and all the fixings

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Since then, immigrants have brought their own food cultures and grilling techniques and introduced them to others. Today, new styles are born in backyards and parking lots, developed by family pitmasters and skilled chefs.

“They are all the different branches of the family tree of barbecue. These different grilling styles are just being generalized under the word barbecue since that’s the word known in the United States,” says Auchmutey.

“It’s coming around as a full circle,” he says.

Twisting Traditions

“Everyone at one point, it doesn’t matter if you’re white, Black, Native American, Chinese, Japanese, someone killed an animal, took a hunk of meat, put it on a stick and put it on fire. And it tasted so much better!” says Logan Sandoval, the chef and co-founder of Zef BBQ, an underground popup that started from Logan’s garage in Simi Valley during the pandemic.

Sandoval has had an extensive career as a chef with Hyatt Hotels and Resorts. He is one of the participants in the Netflix original series “Barbeque Showdown,” a competition where contestants showcase their grilling skills and techniques in non-traditional settings.

Logan Sandoval of ZEF BBQ

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ZEF BBQ

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“To me, barbecue is anything that can go into the fire. There is a fire and food; you just need to make it on your own," he says. "I want to make food that makes me feel good, food that I want to eat."

The most important part, he says, is feeding food he loves to other people.

Sandoval learned about flavors and how to properly use spices from his step-grandmother, an Apache woman. She made everything from scratch: tamales, enchiladas, Spanish rice.

“I was 10 or 11 the first time I started having a fascination towards food and realized that food can be so much more than a tuna casserole or hamburgers,” he says.

Hot chiles, sauces, moles, and other vibrant flavors help Zef BBQ stand out, like the pork belly burnt ends, boldly seasoned with Chinese five spice and Sichuan peppercorns, and the short rib curry, soaked in house-made panang curry with the delicate taste of cinnamon.

Barbecue taught Sandoval a lot about patience with cooking, which can last up to 14 hours: “There are no shortcuts. If you want to do it the right way, there are no shortcuts.”

He shows his daughter, who will soon be 7 years old, how to build fire and how not to be afraid of fire.

“In this age of instant gratification, when we get everything from Doordash, McDonald's and others, I am trying to teach her that good food comes from good preparation and good technique. We want her to grow up and learn to care for herself.”

East meets West

American barbecue is often defined by its origin, whether coming from Memphis, Texas, or Kansas.

But Winnie Yee-Lakhani, known as the Smoke Queen, is crafting a new narrative by adding her own style of Asian barbecue. With her “When East meets West” slogan, Yee-Lakhani introduces the flavors she grew up with, including cumin, garlic powder, paprika, and sesame oil, in her non-traditional Texas-style smoked brisket and Cantonese crispy skin pork belly every Sunday at Smorgasburg.

Winnie Yee, Smoke Queen BBQ

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Courtesy Smoke Queen BBQ

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“The barbecue is very primitive, very romantic. It’s a cooking technique that involves the whole community," she says. "Anytime there is a gathering, everybody’s thinking about cooking outside. It’s not just cuisine. It’s a culture in which we infuse our heritage."

Yet, she adds, in her native Malaysian-Chinese cuisine, there’s not a lot of slow cooking involved. Most food is “hot and fast,” she laughs.

Yee-Lakhani, who used to run a franchise of restaurant chains operating inside Hilton hotels, got her start during the pandemic when all the restaurants she used to work with were shut down.

She decided to stretch herself by exploring barbecue and learning smoking techniques. With many trials and errors she finally learned how to barbecue using her Chinese and Malaysian heritage and the spices she used to have in her own kitchen.

She says going into the barbecue business, she’s encountered various stereotypes — one being a woman, the other being Asian.

“Doing American barbecue is very niche. I was always afraid that the fact that I was Asian would hurt my business. But I overcame that," she says. "It’s been three years now. I am also receiving a lot of comments for doing a barbecue from other women who think that it’s a man’s thing.”

This fall, Winnie’s long-awaited restaurant in Garden Grove will debut. In this house-converted kitchen, she will offer the hospitality and traditions prevalent in her cooking. With this project, Winnie hopes to recreate the model of the similar restaurants she’s been to in her homeland in Malaysia, where everyone is warmly welcomed, treated as a family and offered homemade food.

“In a way, this all comes back to what’s important in the barbecue community. Preserving the history, architecture, and design of that neighborhood will definitely be worth it,” Yee-Lakhani adds.

A couple of decades ago, a friend in New York told me about something happening that was kinda underground and just getting traction. It was called “The Moth.” People took turns telling a true, personal story, with no notes, named after the Southern tradition of sitting on front porches and sharing spellbinding tales — with moths flying mesmerized around the porchlight.

It sounded amazing. And terrifying. I filed it under the same list as bungee jumping — no doubt exhilarating but something I’d never do — and got on with my life. Over the years, as it grew bigger and bigger, I went to several Moth events in different cities, and was always so impressed with the storytellers — and equally adamant I’d never do it.

Cut to this September, when a message went out to all the staff at LAist. We’re a media sponsor of The Moth, and an event, a open mike StorySLAM, was coming up in Silver Lake. There were a few tickets available. Did anyone want one? The theme was "Divas." Sure, I thought. I’d go watch. It's always fun.

Nagging thought

As the days went by, the same thought kept nagging at me. How about getting on stage yourself? No, I thought. Too risky. But this time there was another thought, even more vehement. Why are you being held hostage by fear? Life is too short. If you want to do something, you just have to do it. And this opportunity has just fallen into your lap.

So when the day came, I went to the event, and put my name in the hat. Would I be picked? I sat there with sweaty palms as the show started and people came up tell their own funny, moving, poignant stories.

Finally, near the end of the show, my name was called out. Gulp. I walked on stage to the mic, and began telling my story.

“Some years ago I was a BBC radio producer. A show host and I were at Albuquerque airport, on our way to Los Alamos to do interviews about the Manhattan project. But when we got to the gate, it was closed. They’d boarded the plane 15 minutes early. We couldn't believe it. There was only one plane per day and we'd flown in from London and were on a tight schedule. What should we do?”

Holding their breath

It was a strange experience, simultaneously storytelling while looking at the audience and scanning for their reactions. They seemed to be enjoying themselves.... and were holding their breath, waiting to see what came next.

“I could see the plane on the tarmac, one of those regional planes with propellers, on the other side of an alarmed emergency exit door. So I decided, in the heat of the moment, to push it open, and started dashing across the tarmac, yelling for the host to follow me. Security men began running towards me from every direction as the alarm blared loudly.”

The audience was laughing with delight and disbelief, and I was laughing, too, at the recollection. What on earth had made me do that? Ah, my young, impulsive, determined self. Just as well it wasn’t today, post 9/11. I’d be dead.

“As I reached the plane, the security men were shouting 'What are you doing? You can’t run onto the tarmac!' That’s when the diva part came in. I drew myself up to my full 5’ 2” and said, determinedly, 'No, YOU were the ones who boarded the plane early. We did everything right! We have our tickets, we have interviews to do and we are going to get on this plane.'"

The security men looked at each other, unsure what to do. Maybe it was the British accent, or not being used to a woman giving them a dressing down. But one of them shrugged, moved out of the way, and they let us get on the plane. "Hurray! And we made it to Los Alamos, in time to do our interviews. Thank you.”

The audience went crazy, clapping and whooping. I was standing there grinning stupidly. I couldn’t believe I’d done it.

Yes, the story went down well. And the audience hadn't eaten me alive. But there was something bigger, something even more satisfying in my reaction. I’d had made myself do something I was scared of. I'd faced my demons.... and survived.

A lesson for us all.

If you happen to see 600 people snaking down 14.3 miles of Santa Monica Boulevard (and then some) on Saturday, Nov. 21 — their sole purpose is just to … walk.

“For years people were asking us, ‘What are you doing?’” said Michael Schneider, founder of the Great Los Angeles Walk.

These strolls are maximalist in nature, usually covering the entire length of a given thoroughfare. Sunset Boulevard. Melrose Avenue. Ventura Boulevard.

The inaugural Great L.A. Walk in 2006 along Wilshire Boulevard.

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How the walk began 

The pre-Thanksgiving tradition started in 2006 with Wilshire Boulevard. Schneider, who had reached the milestone of living in L.A. for a decade, was inspired by a book about the street’s history to walk its entire 15.8 miles on foot. He asked others to join on his blog Franklin Avenue.

About two dozen people showed up. That day, they popped into storefronts, stopped by restaurants, sneaked into the Park Plaza Hotel near MacArthur Park and shot up to the roof. “That kind of unearthed a whole new side of Los Angeles as we walked down Wilshire,” he said.

By the time the trek reached the ocean, folks were asking Schneider about next year. Now, it's always on the Saturday before Thanksgiving.

“I inadvertently turned it into an annual tradition,” he said.

The 2016 edition of Great L.A. Walk along Pico Boulevard.

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The 2007 installment was Pico Boulevard — with restaurant recommendations along the route handpicked by the late Pulitzer-winning food critic Jonathan Gold.

Eventually, Schneider included themed walks. March of Los Pobladores — which retraces the final leg of the 1781 journey taken by the original founders of L.A. — from the San Gabriel Mission to downtown. And USC to UCLA when the rivals faced off on game day.

This year’s route: Route 66 

This year's theme is Route 66.

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This year’s focus is Route 66, marking the centennial of the iconic road. Saturday's walk will start in Echo Park, then go the whole way down Santa Monica Boulevard and end at the pier, totaling about 16 miles.

“You see so many different versions of Los Angeles,” he said.

Michael Schneider, founder of the Great L.A. Walk, at last year's trot along Wilshire Boulevard.

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Celebrity sightings and a marquee shout-out 

One year, he said, the group walked by Magic Johnson.

“He waved at us," Schneider said. "Probably was wondering why [there were] hundreds of people walking past where he was."

As many as 600 people now join the walk, he said. As the number grows, so too has its legend.

“Now we find a lot of people who know who we are,” he said. “You hear people say, ‘Hey, it's the Great L.A. Walk.”

Updated November 13, 2026 at 20:38 PM ET

The nationwide ground stop that paralyzed the U.S. aviation system on Friday has ended, according to the Federal Aviation Administration.

The rare stop, which lasted about four hours, grounded thousands of flights at all U.S. airports in one of the biggest disruptions of the nation's air travel system since the September 11th attacks. 

In a Friday night news conference, Transportation Secretary Sean Duffy said that air traffic control facilities had experienced "intermittent" outages of their radar and communications systems beginning earlier in the afternoon. Duffy blamed outdated technology for the failures. 

"We have old switches, old routers. We use 1980s little copper lines. It's an old system that went down and went down everywhere. It got overloaded," he said.

But when pressed by reporters on exactly why those systems would become overwhelmed on an otherwise normal travel day, Duffy did not have a ready answer. 

Homeland Security Secretary Markwayne Mullin joined Duffy in the White House briefing room and said there was no evidence the issue was due to an attack.

"We have seen zero evidence this is a cyber attack," he said.

A flight board showing delayed flights is pictured at Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport, Friday.

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As of 9 p.m. ET, more than 8,000 flights had been delayed Friday and 7,000 had been canceled in the U.S., according to FlightAware, a flight tracking site. The turmoil comes on the heels of nearly 7,000 flight delays on Thursday.

The FAA said the issue affected Air Route Traffic Control Centers — the regional air traffic control centers across the country that handle high-altitude traffic.

FAA leaders did not brief the media at the White House press conference, and did not provide any further detail on the communication outages that led to the ground stop.

This was only the second nationwide ground stop since September 11, 2001. The U.S. last issued a ground stop of this scale in 2023, when all U.S. airports were shut down due to an outage in the NOTAM (Notice to Air Missions) system, which alerts pilots and airports of real-time hazards.

That outage prompted fears of a cyberattack, but the FAA later determined the issue was caused when contract workers inadvertently deleted critical files.

Senator Richard Blumenthal (D-CT) released a statement late Friday evening calling for a "prompt, penetrating investigation" into the causes of Friday's ground stop.

"A widespread communication outage of this scale is highly alarming — a clear danger to national security, as well as safe, convenient travel close to the holidays. The Department of Transportation owes Americans credible, accurate action and factual disclosure," the statement read.

The FAA has recently begun rolling out an AI-enhanced software tool known as the SMART system as part of its ambitious overhaul of the nation's air traffic control system. But Air Space Intelligence, the company that makes the tool, quickly dismissed speculation that its product could be connected to the flight disruptions.

"The current ground stop is not based on or a result of the SMART system, any product of ASI or our integration with FAA and ATC," the company said on social media.

Passengers stranded

The nationwide ground stop caused chaos in airports and headaches for travelers — many of whom are already too familiar with flight delays and cancellations during the holiday season.

At the Friday night press conference, Duffy said flights would resume but would take time to clear.

At Dallas Fort Worth International Airport, Regina Harling said she waited hours — long past when her flight was supposed to depart — before she learned of the nationwide grounding by checking the news on her phone. 

"There's still a sign right in front of me that says we're boarding in 16 minutes," she said Friday afternoon. 

An airline worker shows people how to apply for a refund at LaGuardia airport on Friday.

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Harling needed to travel last minute to San Diego for a family emergency. Stuck at the airport, she said she was thinking about how soon she could make it to her family, but she's not optimistic.

"I was just thinking to myself that it always feels like it's getting harder to travel than it used to be," she said.

At Chicago O'Hare International Airport, Giliann Karon was on board a plane when the ground stop was ordered. Karon said she had already experienced a flight delay the day before due to bad weather in New York City, where she is heading.

"It's just kind of like, 'Oh, of course this is happening,'" she said.

Deepa Shivaram contributed to this report.

Copyright 2026 NPR

The nonprofits that run the Los Angeles region's federally funded homeless shelters, outreach teams and housing services will soon be overseen by a different government agency, under a deal a federal judge says he plans to approve next week.

If approved, the shift will mark the biggest change in the control of federal homeless dollars in L.A. in decades.

The proposed settlement would shift federal grants and duties from the troubled L.A. Homeless Services Authority (LAHSA) to the county government in stages, starting next month. LAHSA’s management of federal dollars for homeless services would end in June. The deal between LAHSA and the Trump administration keeps the region's request for roughly $240 million in new annual federal funding on track and adds tighter checks on how that money is spent.

U.S. District Judge David O. Carter said at a Friday hearing he would likely sign it Monday, ending LAHSA's lawsuit over the Trump administration’s June suspension of the agency.

“This has been an absolute past dereliction of duty by the federal government” and local governments, Carter said, referring to what he called decades of failure to properly oversee homelessness dollars.

“I choose now to turn this back to the proper governing bodies,” Carter said. "But please, this can never happen again."

Citing past audits and reports, Carter said “HUD’s been on notice since 2007” of LAHSA’s oversight failures and “abandoned” its own oversight role.

“I termed it a partnership in failure,” he added. “Local government turned an absolute blind eye to the distribution of these funds and transparency and accountability for these funds.”

“And what is so sad and disappointing is, these funds were meant to serve the absolute most vulnerable in our society,” the judge added.

U.S. District Judge David O. Carter, left, shown in West L.A. on Wednesday, Aug. 21, 2024.

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LAHSA has faced major problems in recent years. Last year, an LAist investigation found the signature of LAHSA’s then-CEO, Va Lecia Adams Kellum, finalized a $2.1 million contract with the nonprofit where her husband was working in senior leadership, despite previously telling LAist she was “completely recused.”

LAist also found the agency kept awarding millions in contract renewals to another nonprofit even after LAHSA’s own compliance team labeled it “high-risk” for, among other things, billing for services while reporting no enrolled participants. That group’s leader, Alex Soofer, recently pleaded guilty to diverting $2 million. Another nonprofit operator contracted with LAHSA, Michael Young, was arrested and charged by federal prosecutors with misappropriating millions of tax dollars, including allegedly siphoning $1 million into a high-end nightclub.

Additionally, a 2024 L.A. County audit found LAHSA had mismanaged hundreds of millions in contracts for homeless services, often paying service providers late and failing to track whether services were provided.

Under the deal, Carter would receive quarterly reports on progress and could intervene if one of the parties asks him to resolve a dispute.

When control would shift

The deal, on its own, does not change which nonprofits provide shelter, outreach and housing. It instead changes which government agency pays them and ensures they’re serving people as required.

Here’s what the timeline will be if Carter follows through on approving the deal:

• Within two weeks of this year's federal awards: Most new grants awarded to LAHSA will instead be managed by the county, not LAHSA.
• Starting Dec. 1: Grants for programs that begin on or after that date move to the county before they start.
• January 2027: LAHSA, which has overseen the homeless counts since 2005, runs the annual homeless count one last time. The county runs it after that.
• By March 1, 2027: The county is approved to take over as the agency that applies for federal homelessness money for the whole region going forward, instead of LAHSA.
• By April 1, 2027: The county takes over management from LAHSA of many federal grants for programs already underway that continue past June 2027.
• By June 30, 2027: LAHSA finishes administering federal grants that end by this date.
• By Dec. 31, 2027: The county takes over the region’s federally required database, known as HMIS, that tracks which homeless services each person receives. The county also takes over another system, known as CES, that matches people with taxpayer-funded housing. With that, LAHSA's last remaining federal roles end.
• January 2028: The county conducts the annual homeless count, taking over that role from LAHSA.

What the deal would mean for services

The federal government’s attorneys said the goal is to have stronger oversight over homelessness spending, after many years of documented failures by LAHSA. Attorneys who struck the proposed settlement said in court Friday that the timeline was structured to ensure a smooth transition that doesn’t disrupt homeless services.

The HMIS database and matching system, which caseworkers use to track clients and place them in homes, will switch over last to avoid disrupting services, said Shayla Myers, the lead attorney for the L.A. Continuum of Care, the body that coordinates federal homelessness funding and joined LAHSA in the lawsuit.

For taxpayers, the deal adds safeguards on spending Carter has demanded for years. LAHSA must send invoices and spending records to the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) before drawing grant money, and submit receipts afterward. A HUD contractor, Guidehouse, will review its books, and the county must follow the same rules for older grants it inherits. The parties will report to Carter every three months, until LAHSA no longer has any federal roles overseen by HUD.

Bill Essayli is the first assistant United States attorney for the Central District of California.

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Allen J. Schaben

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Los Angeles Times via Getty Images

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First Assistant U.S. Attorney Bill Essayli, whose office represents HUD, told LAist after the hearing that the county is probably the best equipped to take over, and scrutiny will be crucial.

“Do I have amazing confidence in the county? No,” he said, noting that LAHSA is a joint city-county agency.

“But we're going to verify that they are going to be good stewards of the tax money.” With LAHSA gone, he added, “The buck's going to stop at the county.”

Under the proposed deal, LAHSA agrees to cooperate fully with HUD's investigations. A LAHSA attorney told the judge on Friday the agency is cooperating fully with criminal investigations, adding that it was critical that HUD agreed not to reinstate LAHSA’s suspension, so that it can continue to manage federal dollars until they’re handed off.

Judge wanted more 'teeth' for the court

Carter spent much of the hearing asking attorneys for the parties what power he would have to enforce the deal after signing. The proposed settlement lets him settle disputes and receive reports, but he said that left him looking over shoulders without the authority to actually enforce it.

“I have no jurisdiction. I have no teeth,” he said.

He read aloud from 2024 hearings in a related lawsuit, known as L.A. Alliance, where he warned that bills without supporting documents should not be paid. Essayli said that the proposed settlement would be binding “and we'll vigorously enforce it.”

Myers said the deal gives the court oversight to ensure that the problems federal authorities flagged “don’t exist.”

Carter asked to have the ability to hire an expert, at about $150 an hour paid by HUD, to help him understand the quarterly reports on implementing the deal that transfers federal roles from LAHSA to the county. Essayli agreed.

How the case got here

HUD suspended LAHSA from federal funds on June 11, citing alleged failures in the agency’s financial management and conflict-of-interest safeguards. The move put roughly $240 million in expected federal homelessness funding for the region in limbo and held up federal funding HUD had already awarded.

LAHSA, which is overseen by the city and county’s elected officials, sued.

In August, Carter blocked the suspension, writing that LAHSA and HUD had been in “a joint partnership in failure,” and ordering a competition for LAHSA's federal roles. He deferred the selection to the continuum of care — the body designated by federal law to make that choice.

In October, the continuum chose the county for all four, over objections from L.A. Mayor Karen Bass and several City Council members who wanted the city to share control. The city then reached a tentative side deal giving it access to data on unhoused residents and a role placing people in city-funded housing.

What happens next

Carter said he expects to sign the proposed settlement on Monday.

Myers said the deal lets the region “build a peaceful transition of power.”