The Brief

Los Angeles has seen several notable restaurant closures in the past few weeks.

Hart House, the vegan fast food chain owned by comedian Kevin Hart, closed all four locations. Pink Taco, located on the Sunset Strip in West Hollywood, abruptly shuttered its doors after 12 years. Otoño, a well-reviewed Spanish-inspired restaurant in Highland Park is now closed. Acclaimed Gorilla Pies in Valley Village has gone on hiatus to “reimagine how we can better serve you.”

Eater L.A has kept a running total of this year’s closures, and it’s 75 so far. Compared to last year’s 65 eateries that closed over the entire year — it’s clear that it’s grim out there.

To get a better picture of the current situation, we reached out to three business owners: Nicole Rucker, owner of Fat & Flour in DTLA and Culver City; Chef Teresa Montaño of the now-shuttered Otoño; and Alex Koons, of Hot Tongue Pizza in Silver Lake, who made the decision last year to add meat to his vegan pizzeria menu with hopes of attracting a larger customer base. All three have been vocal regarding the hardships they’ve faced recently.

(Note: these conversations have been edited for clarity and length).

What’s the situation? 

Nicole Rucker, owner of Fat & Flour

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Alan Gastelum

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Courtesy Fat & Flour

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Nicole Rucker:

“This summer, we experienced a drop in our business that started on June 1st, which came after we had recorded high sales in 2023.

The beginning of the year, it's normally a little bit slower, and then we look to summer for when tourism comes to L.A. [But] this summer, it took a sharp drop down and just kept getting worse. In August, we saw the worst sales that we've seen since 2021.

August was worse than July, and July was worse than June. And in total, it's about a 30 to 40 percent drop. And then the heat wave that came was the nail in the coffin for a lot of people. That was brutalizing."

Teresa Montano:

“A significant part of it is just how much the cost of everything, the cost of doing business in Los Angeles, has gone up. And after COVID-19, so many things changed.

There were just these compounding factors that kept hitting us. We closed for about 15 months during COVID-19. In that time, we did a little market thing, but ultimately, dinner service was down for 15 months, which was nuts.

One of the major things that I noticed was that dining habits changed. People were still scared to come out, so they decided to change their lifestyle and start cooking at home.

The other factor is that third-party delivery apps made a killing during COVID-19 because all the restaurants were down. These parasitic apps came in and stole half the market.

A lot of people have got used to that. And that has become their dining, instead of going out to restaurants. When we reopened the first year, we had an incredible year, of course, because people were excited that we were back.

But I think after that initial pop dissipated, we were in the boat with everyone else."

Alex Koons:

Alex Koons of Hot Tongue in Silver Lake

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Miriam Brummel

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Courtesy Hot Tongue

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“It just seemed the summer was so dead. It was scary. My wife had dipped into her funds to pay for payroll multiple times.

I've been in pizza for almost 15 years, and it feels like I've had to work five times harder for everything these last couple of years.

I'm not saying the restaurant industry was easier before this, but just seeing and hearing about all the struggles, seeing Gorilla Pies close their doors, and other friends, it was just me saying, ‘If we didn't make this decision, [about adding meat] we would have been closed. There has to be a bigger play. And opening up to a bigger demographic.

I think my ego was quite big as a pizza maker. Bread has always been the defining factor that I find to be important in pizza, and it's something that I'm very good at. I thought that would be enough to get people who might not necessarily eat vegan food in the door. But it's so funny, living in a bubble or having a perspective of only your own — you don't realize that.”

What can be done? 

Nicole Rucker:

“I would like to see a small business tax plan that really takes care of small businesses. I would like to see money become available to small businesses that are not from online bank sources that charge exorbitant interest rates. Because something that changed with the pandemic is that it is more and more difficult for truly small businesses.

And by that, businesses who do under a million dollars in sales. It's very difficult for people like me to get money these days from places that aren't charging 17 to 20% interest.

But the other thing is people are scared because there's so much messaging about the economy being bad. And we're all trying to save where we can, and groceries are expensive, but if we do care about the health of small businesses within our communities, then we have to support the places that matter to us.

Because following three months of really terrible sales, that’s when you start to see doors closing. If you're lucky, you have three months of backup in the bank. That would be really great to have, but we just used it all on summer 2024. It's gone now for most people. So a lot more places are going to close before the end of the year because it's so hard to navigate."

Teresa Montaño:

Chef Teresa Montano stands inside of her now-shuttered Otoño restaurant in Highland Park

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Courtesy Otoño

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“It's really just looking at the policy and getting rid of all those old systems, lowering the prices of things and stopping gouging small businesses. We're paying the taxes and employing people, which are way too high in California. There's just so much red tape. And then you open, and there's even more. There's even more. It's just like regulation after regulation.

Thank God we dodged the junk fee bill [a bill to remove extra fees from bills that ultimately exempted restaurants]. Maybe it's a good intention, but it makes doing business harder. And small businesses are leaving California, but huge businesses are also leaving, so that should be an eye-opener to the lawmakers.”

Alex Koons:

"There is no quick fix to this problem. I bang my head against the wall daily, trying to figure out what will hit and stick.

There needs to be something more extreme than just running promotions or trying to pay for a PR agency or get people or influencers in here.

Again, pride and ego are something that I'm dealing with personally, but I don't want to live in a world where I have to have an influencer come into my establishment to tell everybody that my food is great.

And that seems like that's the world we're living in. They come in, and fundamentally nothing changes from the time they were in and the time they were before. You feel it's almost like being trapped in a way. And maybe I need to just swallow that.

But I have a fair amount of friends who haven't felt any pain. And they're doing very well. They maintain a constant flow of social media attention or being on lists and stuff, and I know how helpful that is to business, especially in Los Angeles.

I talk about cutting through the noise. It's very important to stay on people's radar. And that's a constant battle, too with Hot Tongue. So many people don't know about us in our own neighborhood, and trying to combat that, I've done everything.

We're not priced at the cheapest, but also we pride ourselves on the grain that we use, the technique that we use, the equipment that we use, how much we pay people.

It's hard to convey to a customer, to sit down and have that conversation with them a lot of times. It feels like they just want their food on time and want us not to break the bank.”

The Trump administration on Thursday released its plan to open up federal waters off the coast of California to oil drilling, taking a momentous step that state leaders and environmentalists had long expected.

The Interior Department’s proposal, which sets up a direct confrontation with Sacramento on energy and climate change, would also allow drilling in federal waters off the coast of Alaska and the Southeastern U.S. It would rip up a ban on new offshore drilling in most of these places that President Joe Biden signed a few weeks before he left office.

President Donald Trump signed an executive order repealing that ban on his first day in office in January, and last month, a federal judge in Louisiana ruled Biden had overstepped his authority.

Administration officials argued that the move to open federal waters to new oil and gas leases will help restore energy security and protect American jobs.

“By moving forward with the development of a robust, forward-thinking leasing plan, we are ensuring that America’s offshore industry stays strong, our workers stay employed, and our nation remains energy dominant for decades to come,” Interior Secretary Doug Burgum said in a press release.

Gov. Gavin Newsom previously said the plan would be “dead on arrival” and promised attendees at an international climate conference last week that California would immediately sue.

On Thursday, his office quickly blasted the proposal as “idiotic” and “reckless.” He added that it “endangers our coastal economy and communities and hurts the well-being of Californians.”

Companies have drilled very little oil off the coast of California since the 1969 Union Oil platform blowout spilled 4.2 million barrels of crude into the waters 6 miles off the coast of Santa Barbara, catalyzing an environmental movement.

Newsom’s press release included a photo of a bird covered in crude oil, with a caption that said, “If Trump gets his way, coming to a beach near you soon!”

Numerous California lawmakers, including Sen. Alex Padilla and Rep. Jared Huffman, hastily convened a media call to push back on the plan.

Padilla called it “another outrageous announcement” from an “out of control administration.”

Rep. Jimmy Panetta compared the proposal to Trump’s controversial renovation of the White House.

“The California coastline is not the East Wing of the White House,” he said.

The Democratic lawmakers are supporting legislation that would prohibit new oil and gas leases off the West Coast.

The public will have a 60-day window to comment on the plan when it appears in the Federal Register on Monday.

Orange County isn't where you'd expect to find your next great bagel. But that's exactly what's happening in Irvine and Costa Mesa, where bakeries are proving that the future of bagels isn't about replicating New York — it's about reinventing it with California's best ingredients.

Three shops have quietly been reinvigorating an old formula, taking inspiration from traditional East Coast-style bagel shops while using farm-sourced ingredients to create something unlike anything else in Southern California (or the country).

Read on and enjoy these maximalist offerings.

RISE Bagels (Irvine)

The One Fish from RISE Bagels in Irvine, featuring a bright, silky lox bagel layered with sweet yellow tomatoes, pickled onions, and plenty of dill.

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Ron De Angelis

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Courtesy RISE Bagels

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Chef John Park's bagel philosophy stemmed from his desire for something lighter than traditional, heavy New York bagels. Park and his team opened RISE Bagels earlier this month in an upscale Irvine business park, tucked away like an oasis among pristine high-rise buildings.

Park aims for bagels with a crispy crust and more air pockets. These aren't special sourdough or crazy fermentation projects — just a focus on achieving lighter crust and crumb.

RISE offers signature open-face options like the One Fish ($20), featuring smoked salmon with citrus notes (orange, lime, lemon, dill, coriander, fennel, black pepper), a balanced sweet-salty ratio, and pickled onions with yuzu kosho, a fermented paste containing chili peppers, yuzu peel and salt. The Two Fish ($23) adds dashi-marinated salmon roe for a touch of sweetness and smokiness.

Closed sandwich options include Get Jjigae With It ($18), with beef bulgogi, kimchi jjigae, scrambled eggs, American cheese, sesame leaf, soy-pickled radish, cucumber, and ssam jang schmear made from fermented soybeans and chili paste. The Jersey Boy features Taylor ham, soft scrambled egg, American cheese, ketchup, and Tokyo Negi schmear — a Japanese long onion spread sourced from Girl and Dough farm in San Diego.

On my recent visit, the One Fish delivered a level of freshness that nearly knocked me off my feet — a touch of salty brine as if it had just been harvested from nearby San Clemente beaches. The Jersey Boy brought me back to land with sweet, gooey flavors from soft scrambled egg, melty American cheese, and ketchup, with just the right amount of salty notes in between.

Boil &  Bake (Costa Mesa)

Boil & Bake in Costa Mesa features fresh figs over cream cheese with a heavy drizzle of hot honey and a scatter of sesame seeds on their black and white sesame bagel.

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Gab Chabrán

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LAist

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Carlos Perez's bagel education began at 8, working under his father, also named Carlos, when the family took over Shirley’s Bagels, an Orange County staple. But the son of Guatemalan immigrants wanted to move beyond Restaurant Depot products and machine-made dough. After working his way from dishwasher to manager at local restaurants, he felt ready to open his own place. He connected with Chef Luke Bramm, who'd trained in fine dining kitchens and specialized in curing meats, through a mutual chef friend. Together, they opened Boil & Bake in Costa Mesa, developing a three-day sourdough process and strict farm-sourcing philosophy, seasonally editing the menu — removing items entirely when local ingredients aren't available.

The menu splits between open-face bagels and sandwiches, emphasizing California ingredients and house-made products. The O.G. features Guatemalan-style longaniza sausage with cilantro aji crema (a nod to Perez's heritage), while The Dodger pairs Native Cure smoked salmon with pickled onions instead of traditional capers. The Fully Loaded Lox ($20) goes maximalist with house-cured fish, cucumber, radish, and sprouts. The M.F. takes a more inventive route with maple-fennel sausage and sweet-onion Aleppo aioli. Valdivia Farms heirloom tomatoes and La Bahn Ranch eggs appear throughout, reinforcing the local-sourcing philosophy. Most items range from $14 to $17.

On my visit, I ordered a black-and-white sesame bagel topped with black figs and hot honey, that day's special. Quartered black figs with their deep purple-red flesh glistened under a drizzle of hot honey. It feels more California farmers market than traditional East Coast bagel shop, with fresh-tasting, light flavors that work well together.

Deli Seoul Bagels (Costa Mesa)

A beautifully chaotic egg, tofu, and cheese combination — runny, melty, and nestled inside an egg bagel, made with Irene's chili mayo from Deli Seoul.

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Gab Chabrán

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LAist

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Also in Costa Mesa is Deli Seoul, a mother-and-son operation run by Jun and Irene Wang. Irene opened Deli Seoul in 2008 in a busy shopping center off Harbor Boulevard as a traditional bagel shop. Jun joined later after leaving the tech industry. It was only in the last year that the family decided to lean into their Korean heritage in bagel form.

The breakfast menu operates on a build-your-own model: customers start with a bagel or bread ($7.50 base, $9.85 with protein), then add cheese and protein. Korean options set it apart: Seoul steak with a sweet sauce, spicy pork, sweet-glazed Spam and marinated organic tofu sit alongside traditional bacon and sausage. Specialty bagels include coconut, pineapple, and Asiago. Sauces range from standard mayo to Irene's Korean chili mayo and chipotle mayo. It's customization that appeals to both traditionalists and adventurous eaters.

Jun Wang and his mother Irene pose together in the kitchen area of Deli Seoul in Costa Mesa.

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Gab Chabrán

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LAist

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By my third stop that day, I was experiencing a bit of bagel burnout, despite my love for them. So I ordered something different: a bagel sandwich with scrambled egg and marinated tofu, with Irene's Korean chili mayo on an egg bagel. The combination was surprisingly light and flavorful, perfectly summing up what Deli Seoul offers — a delightfully diverse array of flavors from an approachable perspective that still represents what's happening with bagels in Orange County.

Infant formula linked to a botulism outbreak that has sickened dozens of babies across 15 states may still be on store shelves even after being recalled, federal health officials say.

As of Wednesday, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) said, 31 cases of suspected or confirmed infant botulism have been reported in babies who consumed ByHeart Whole Nutrition formula and got sick between August and mid-November.

No deaths have been reported. But all 31 babies were hospitalized with the illness, which can cause a potentially life-threatening form of gradual paralysis in infants less than a year old.

"Epidemiologic and laboratory data show that ByHeart Whole Nutrition infant formula might be contaminated with Clostridium botulinum, which is causing infant illness in multiple regions of the country," the FDA said.

ByHeart Whole Nutrition recalled two batches of its infant formula earlier this month before expanding the recall to all of its products — which include cans and single-serve packets — last week. They are sold at major retailers — including Target, Publix, Walmart and Whole Foods — and online nationwide, with some products shipped to customers outside the U.S.

ByHeart, which describes itself as a "next-generation baby nutrition company," first hit the market in 2022. The FDA says its products make up "approximately 1%" of all infant formula sold in the U.S., so it does not have concerns about a potential shortage.

In an apology note to parents, ByHeart says it is cooperating with the FDA and "investigating every facet of our process" to identify the cause of the outbreak.

In the meantime, the company — along with the FDA — is urging adults to stop using the formula and monitor their babies for symptoms of botulism. The FDA is also asking stores to stop selling the product.

But in its Wednesday update, the agency said it had "received reports that recalled formula is still being found on store shelves in multiple states." NPR has reached out to the FDA for more information but did not hear back by publication time.

The FDA says it is working with state partners and retailers "to ensure an effective recall" as its investigation into the outbreak continues.

ByHeart infant formula was removed from shelves at a Walmart store in Temecula, Calif..

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JoNel Aleccia

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AP

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What we know about the outbreak

As of Wednesday, the FDA said the 31 cases had been reported in 15 states: Arizona, California, Idaho, Illinois, Kentucky, Maine, Michigan, Minnesota, North Carolina, New Jersey, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Texas and Washington.

The outbreak has grown since the FDA first announced its investigation on Nov. 8. At that point, it said that out of an estimated 83 cases of infant botulism reported nationwide since August, 13 of the infants had consumed ByHeart formula at some point.

That raised red flags because botulism is uncommon in dairy products and "there is no historical precedent of infant formula causing infant botulism," the FDA said.

In response, ByHeart promptly recalled two batches of its products. The next day, it announced that the California Department of Public Health had tested a sample from one of those batches, and the result came back positive for Clostridium botulinum, the bacteria that causes infant botulism.

That sample came from an opened can, which ByHeart originally said did not prove that its product was to blame (as the bacteria can occur naturally in places like soil and dust). But in an FAQ on its website, it now says further testing by a third-party group identified the bacteria in some samples of unopened formula, too.

ByHeart says the FDA informed it in a "late-night call" on Nov. 10 that it had found two more cases of infant botulism in babies that had consumed its formula. The next day, ByHeart, citing "too many unanswered questions," recalled all of its products and released information for parents about how to switch to a different formula brand.

What to know about infant botulism 

Botulism is a rare but serious illness caused by Clostridium botulinum. When a baby swallows the spores, "they grow in the gut and make toxin," according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC).

Symptoms can appear three to 30 days after consuming the bacteria, and generally start with constipation, poor feeding, difficulty swallowing and loss of head control.

"If untreated, infants with infant botulism experience a progressive, flaccid paralysis that can lead to breathing difficulties and require weeks of hospitalization," the CDC says.

Treatment for infant botulism involves an antitoxin known as BabyBIG, which is administered through an IV.

The CDC says parents should stay vigilant for several weeks after their baby last consumed ByHeart formula. They are advised to wash contaminated surfaces and label any leftover powder "DO NOT USE" and store it safely for a month, in case their infant develops symptoms and the state health department wants to test it.

The CDC says parents should seek immediate medical care if they see any concerning symptoms, and also directs them to an infant botulism outbreak hotline from the California Department of Public Health set up specifically to respond to this outbreak.

What the company is doing 

ByHeart says it is conducting its own "extensive testing" and giving the FDA "complete and unrestricted access to all of our facilities and products for their investigation."

The company has released more resources for customers in the days since the recall, like a 24/7 support hotline and refunds for purchases since October.

It has also pledged to implement stronger safeguards and testing in the future, saying that Clostridium botulinum was "not among the pathogens routinely tested for across the industry" — until now.

In the meantime, several affected family members have taken legal action.

The parents of two four-month-olds who were hospitalized with infant botulism — in Arizona and Kentucky — filed separate federal lawsuits last week. They accused ByHeart of negligence and are seeking compensation for medical bills and emotional distress after both their daughters required hospitalization. A separate class-action suit filed in New York alleges deceptive marketing.

ByHeart told NPR over email that it cannot comment on litigation, but reiterated its commitment to supporting families and the FDA's investigation.
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