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  • Mírate in Los Feliz is looking to change the game
    A yellow can with red lettering saying Tu Compa Thirst Quencher and Mírate in red, next to a pinky, orange looking drink in a clear tall glass with a decorative white band at the top. Both are on a wooden table with red brick and concrete behind them
    Tu Compa, Mírate's take on the Paloma, is canned on-premises and contains tequila and pulque.

    Topline:

    At Mírate, beverage director Max Reis is on a mission to change people's perceptions of Mexican spirits. The best example might be the Tu Compa, their take on the famous Paloma.

    Why now? Reis and his teammates at Mírate have cultivated some of the most forward-thinking, Mexican-inspired bar programs we’ve ever encountered in L.A. They’ve just unveiled their new cocktail menu to try.

    Why it matters: The drink menu revolves around the work of small-batch producers back in Mexico — no big brand tequila here — and making sure those spirits are ethically and sustainably sourced.

    Why Tu Compa? Traditionally, a Paloma is made with tequila and a splash of grapefruit soda, such as Squirt or Jarritos. But there are no such shortcuts at Mírate. Their version involves clarifying grapefruit juice in a centrifuge, adding pulque — made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant, an agave species whose origins go back to the Aztecs — and carbonating it and canning it in-house. It’s light, refreshing, and delicious.

    If you ever find yourself thirsty in the Los Feliz neighborhood, head to a bar/restaurant called Mírate on Vermont and cruise up a long flight of stairs with a red neon sign that reads MEZCAL.

    There you'll find a partially enclosed second-floor outdoor patio with plenty of natural light and an inside/outside dining room with a large tree extending towards the ceiling.

    While the food at Mírate is downright delightful, with botanas (bar snacks in Mexico) and larger entrees, the cocktails drew me to the upstairs dining area, which feels like you are sitting above the clouds.

    The interior of a restaurant dining area shows four rows of small tables containing white marble tops, each with two table settings. In front of the table are four chairs in a row that all contain fabric seat cushions. A large cushioned bench on the other side of the table could easily seat four people. Behind the bench is a large tree landscaped with green plants. Behind the tree is a white stone wall containing a framed mirror next to a pink wall with a black door. To the left of the tree is a staircase leading to an upstairs balcony. The dining area contains a beige stone tile, and various large potted plants are placed throughout the room.
    Mírate dining room creates the feeling of being inside and outside while enjoying your food and beverage.
    (
    Matt Egan
    /
    Courtesy of Mírate
    )

    There, Max Reis, the beverage director, and his team have cultivated one of the most forward-thinking Mexican-inspired bar programs I’ve ever encountered in L.A.

    They gave me a glimpse of their newly unveiled cocktail menu — they plan to roll out more drinks gradually throughout next year.

    Their goal is to use sustainable, ethically sourced spirits using technologically advanced formulas, maintaining strong relationships with small-batch producers back in Mexico.

    A man with light skin, black hair, and a black beard stands with his arms at his sides. He smiles, and his mouth is open, revealing his teeth. Both of his arms are covered in a sleeve of tattoos. He is wearing a blue short-sleeve shirt with different designs on it. In the background is a bar's back shelf containing rows and rows of various bottles.
    Max Reis, the beverage director at Mírate in Los Feliz.
    (
    Courtesy of Mírate
    )

    Tu Compa

    My favorite drink there — so far— is the Tu Compa, their take on a Paloma, which is traditionally made with tequila and a splash of grapefruit soda, such as Squirt or Jarritos.

    However, this is Mírate, and there are no shortcuts.

    The process starts with clarifying grapefruit juice through a centrifuge and carbonating it. That's added to high-proof tequila, along with pulque, a milky liquid made from the fermented sap of the maguey agave plant, which goes back to Aztec times. Then Mexican sake from Sinaloa is added and some bittersweet pomegranate amaro liqueur.

    It’s then canned in-house, to preserve the carbonation, and poured tableside in a tall glass with white salted pulque paint.

    When I tried it, I was surprised — it was light, refreshing and delicious, unlike anything I've drunk before.

    Commercial agave farms

    Regular brand tequila is usually produced from industrial, commercial agave farms, often harmful to the environment, relying on cheap labor.

    Reis instead travels once a month to Mexico to cultivate relationships with small farmers, making sure they're paid fairly. That also means honoring the product as it's made and not asking them to change anything.

    “We don't have them cater to us,” he says.

    This desire to change the status quo doesn't stop there, however. On the can's bright yellow label there's a QR code, which takes you to an online video game called Agave Defender. It's a cheeky Space Invader-style game, where customers can blast flying bottles of Casamigos tequila — the poster child of the celebrity-owned spirit game.

    I won’t spoil who the final boss is, as you should check the game out yourself. It's a lot of fun, and a memorable way to get their message across.

    Reis provides a refreshing take when explaining his beverage philosophy: “We take everything incredibly seriously, but we also don't take ourselves too seriously.”

    The restaurant's new menu (which resembles a photocopied zine, complete with a crossword puzzle in the back) symbolizes the beginning of Mírate's next chapter.

    Whatever that next chapter looks like, I can’t wait to see what they come up with.

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