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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • Future of federal repayment plan explained

    Topline:

    Congressional Republicans are quietly working toward one of the most consequential overhauls in the history of the federal student loan program – one that would affect the lives of millions of borrowers. At the center of that overhaul is an effort to sunset most of the current student loan repayment plans and offer future borrowers a simple binary: pay the same amount every month or tie your payments to your income.


    The context: The overhaul is part of Republicans' reconciliation package, which, if passed, would also extend Trump's 2017 tax cuts.

    Read on... for a breakdown of how Republicans want to reimagine student loan repayment. Or, if you want to read the overhaul's 103 pages of legalese, have at it.

    Congressional Republicans are quietly working toward one of the most consequential overhauls in the history of the federal student loan program – one that would affect the lives of millions of borrowers.

    At the center of that overhaul is an effort to sunset most of the current student loan repayment plans and offer future borrowers a simple binary: pay the same amount every month or tie your payments to your income.

    The overhaul is part of Republicans' reconciliation package, which, if passed, would also extend Trump's 2017 tax cuts.

    If you want to read the overhaul's 103 pages of legalese, have at it. If not, here's a breakdown of how Republicans want to reimagine student loan repayment:

    1. The standard plan

    Under this new standard plan, new borrowers would agree to a repayment window between 10 and 25 years, depending on the size of their debt, with what they owe being divided up, along with interest, into equal monthly payments, like a home mortgage.

    Under this plan, borrowers with larger debts would qualify for a longer repayment period:

    • A borrower who owes less than $25,000 would repay over 10 years. 
    • Owe between $25,000 and $50,000? Repayment would expand to 15 years.
    • Between $50,000 and $100,000: Repay over 20 years.
    • Anyone owing more than $100,000 would repay over a 25-year period. 


    Borrowers with current loans would not have access to this plan but would still have access to a host of older plans, including standard repayment options ranging from 10 to 30 years.

    2. The Repayment Assistance Plan 

    For borrowers worried they don't earn enough to cover the rigid monthly payments of the standard plan, Republicans are also creating what they call their Repayment Assistance Plan for future and current borrowers alike.

    Payments would, for the most part, be based on borrowers' total adjusted gross income (AGI).

    Borrowers earning $10,000 or less would be asked to pay $10 a month. Those earning between $10,000 and $20,000 would have a payment based on 1% of their AGI. Between $20,000 and $30,000, it would be 2% of AGI and so on up the income scale with repayment topping out at 10% of AGI for borrowers earning $100,000 a year or more.

    What does any of that actually mean?

    Monthly payments for many borrowers would be lower relative to Obama-era income-driven repayment plans, according to multiple experts. Though, it would require a minimum monthly payment of $10, ending the $0 payment option of previous income-driven plans.

    This new $10 minimum payment wouldn't make a big difference to the government's coffers, says Jason Delisle at the Urban Institute. Instead, he says, the purpose likely stems from "emerging research that requiring people to make some payment each month is good because it keeps them connected to the loan and makes it less likely that they'll default."

    But some borrower advocates worry this new minimum payment could have the opposite effect.

    For the lowest-income borrowers, asking for $120 a year is "significant," says Roxanne Garza, director of higher education policy at the liberal-leaning EdTrust. "I think having that be a required minimum payment will likely push more borrowers into default."

    The plan would also waive any interest that is left after a borrower makes their payment. 

    If a borrower's monthly payment is $50 but they owe $75 a month in interest, the $50 would be applied to interest, and the remaining $25 of interest would be waived by the government.

    The result: Borrowers would no longer see their loans grow.

    In fact, Republicans want to make sure borrowers see their balances go down every month.

    Using our previous example, of a borrower who pays $50 a month entirely toward interest, this provision would also have the government knocking $50 a month off their principal.

    For borrowers whose monthly payments are less than $50, the government would match whatever they do pay and apply it toward the principal.

    Borrowers whose monthly payments already reduce their principal balance by at least $50 would get no extra help from the government.

    "It's a form of monthly loan forgiveness," Delisle says. "It's a drip drip drip of loan forgiveness, rather than waiting for the big payout at the end of 20 years."

    While previous plans offered forgiveness after 20 or 25 years, this plan would extend that to 360 qualifying payments, or 30 years. Any qualifying payments borrowers made before this transition would count toward satisfying that requirement.

    This drip-drip change is a way of encouraging borrowers, says Beth Akers at the conservative-leaning American Enterprise Institute. When people make payments but don't see their balances go down, "we know [they] get tremendously discouraged." This new principal payment, Akers says, "really tends to that emotional need borrowers have" to feel like they're making progress.

    In creating the Repayment Assistance Plan, Republicans would also eliminate President Biden's legally frozen SAVE Plan.

    Delisle says the borrowers who will feel the biggest difference between this plan and previous income-driven plans are those with large amounts of graduate school debt. These borrowers average more than $110,000 in debt, and under older plans, they could make relatively low monthly payments while keeping a patient eye on forgiveness.

    Under this new plan, Delisle says, graduate school borrowers (who tend to earn more income than undergraduate borrowers) would end up paying more upfront, and, delaying total forgiveness for 30 years instead of 20 or 25 means most would likely pay off their debts first.

    Finally, borrowers should know: If they enroll in this plan, they cannot change plans later.

    "It's a roach motel," Delisle says. "You go in, and you can never check out."

    3. Extra options for current borrowers 

    The first two options will be the only ones available to borrowers who take out loans after July 1, 2026. But current borrowers have a few more choices – and may feel a little confused.

    Current borrowers will still have access to several older plans, including the current standard plan. They'll also get access to a version of the old Income-Based Repayment (IBR) plan (new borrowers will not). That's right. Unlike future borrowers, current borrowers will get to choose between two different income-driven plans:

    The new Repayment Assistance Plan and IBR.

    What's the difference? Well, we've already covered the former. Under the latter, IBR:

    • Borrowers' payments would be based on 15% of their discretionary income.
    • The repayment window would be shorter: 20 and 25 years for undergraduate and graduate borrowers, respectively.


    Compared to Biden's SAVE Plan, borrowers' "payments would be much higher," says Roxanne Garza, of EdTrust.

    The SAVE Plan based monthly payments on 5% of an undergraduate borrower's discretionary income, Garza explains. Under this IBR plan, monthly payments would be based on 15% of discretionary income. That would mean considerably higher payments.

    Delisle says, most lower- and middle-income borrowers would likely have lower monthly payments on the new Repayment Assistance Plan compared to IBR.

    The one reason borrowers with older loans might want to enroll in IBR anyway is if they've been in repayment for close to 20 or 25 years, and are approaching forgiveness, Delisle says.

    Copyright 2025 NPR

  • LAHSA workers brace for county transition
    A person, facing away from the camera and wearing a jacket with text on their back that reads "LAHSA," stands near a person gathering things on a cart in front of some encampments in the background.
    A worker with the Los Angeles Homeless Services Authority (LAHSA) helps a person experiencing homelessness move a cart with their possessions.
    Topline:
    A group of employees at the Los Angeles region’s homelessness authority says hundreds of frontline workers will face layoffs as L.A. County transitions funding away from the agency.

    The staffers from the L.A. Homeless Services Authority, or LAHSA, wrote an open letter to the county Board of Supervisors this week, demanding that no county-funded workers be displaced.

    The demands: The LAHSA Workers Coalition said in the open letter that the county has a legal obligation to protect LAHSA workers as it transitions to a new county-run homelessness agency.

    They’re demanding that existing LAHSA employees be transferred directly to the new department, instead of having to reapply. They’re also asking the board for a full public disclosure of staffing cuts related to the transition.

    Read on ... for details from the coalition's letter.

    A group of employees at the Los Angeles region’s homelessness authority says hundreds of frontline workers will face layoffs as L.A. County transitions funding away from the agency.

    Staffers from the L.A. Homeless Services Authority, or LAHSA, wrote an open letter to the county Board of Supervisors this week, demanding that no county-funded workers be displaced.

    Its members say the transition would hit workers and unhoused clients harder than county officials have acknowledged.

    “ A lot of the workers are in this because we care and we want to help our fellow neighbors and don't want to see see all kinds of people homeless on the street,” Jacqueline Beltran, a LAHSA employee who signed the letter, told LAist.

    County officials said they are committed to “clearing pathways to employment” for county-funded LAHSA workers within the new Department of Homeless Services and Housing.

    “We are continuing to explore all available options,” new department director Sarah Mahin said in a statement.

    Mahin said funding and staffing will be finalized in the FY 2026-2027 Measure A spending plan for the fiscal year that ends in 2027. The county released a draft of that plan last month

    County authorities have said they would fully integrate the services performed by LAHSA into the new Department of Homeless Services and Housing by next July.

    The transition

    In April, the county Board of Supervisors voted to pull more than $300 million from LAHSA and create a new county homelessness department to administer the funds.

    That motion also directed county agencies to consult with Service Employees International Union 721, which represents county-funded LAHSA employees, to try to keep them employed — or prioritize them for transition into the new department’s workforce.

    But the LAHSA Workers Coalition said that’s not happening.

    The group demands in its letter that the county halt all staffing reductions at LAHSA and argues the county has a legal obligation to protect the workers. The group is made up of employees represented by SEIU 721, but the union’s leaders did not cosign the letter.

    The union did not immediately respond to LAist’s questions about it Thursday.

    In February, an L.A. County report said the agency had 900 staff positions and nearly 200 vacancies. More than half of the positions were funded by L.A. County, according to the report.

    LAHSA reported last month that it employed 686 people.

    Demands

    Last year, county voters approved the Measure A sales tax to fund homeless services and affordable housing. The ordinance says that contracts funded with Measure A revenue "must not result in displacement of public employees.”

    In the letter, the coalition argues the county is out of compliance with that requirement and is urging the board to discuss the matter at its next meeting.

    Mahin said Measure A does not prevent the county from restructuring programs but instead “protects public employees from being displaced by outside service providers funded through Measure A.”

    The county is facing a deficit of more than $300 million in funding for homeless services, Mahin said, adding that it must make “difficult but necessary decisions about how we invest our limited resources.”

    The workers coalition is demanding that existing LAHSA employees be transferred directly to the new department, instead of having to reapply.

    They’re also asking the board for a full public disclosure of staffing cuts related to the transition.

    In addition to the Board of Supervisors, the coalition sent the letter to several other county and state oversight entities, including the county office of the inspector general, the civil grand jury, the state auditor and the attorney general.

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  • Made from grapes tracing back to the 18th century
    A hand holds a bottle of deep red Angelica wine with a white grapevine illustration on the label, photographed outdoors with Mission San Gabriel's historic grapevine arbor visible in the blurred background.
    A bottle of Angelica wine made from grapes harvested at Mission San Gabriel's 250-year-old grapevine.

    Topline:

    A 250-year-old grapevine at Mission San Gabriel is leaning into L.A.'s oft-forgotten identity as California's original wine capital, producing Angelica — the city's oldest wine — for sale to the public thanks to local winemakers and volunteers.

    Wine description: Angelica, once made by Franciscan friars at Mission San Gabriel, is a fortified wine, made with fresh grape juice and brandy. It’s sweet, viscous and strong — a glass (or two) is all you need after a holiday meal. Winemakers from Angeleno Wine company have made a small batch, following an old recipe found at the Mission. Each bottle costs $75.

    The backstory: The Mother Vine at Mission San Gabriel, planted around 1775, supplied cuttings that built the state's wine industry. By the mid 20th century, L.A.’s winemaking industry had virtually disappeared. Recently, a group of local winemakers have been reviving the tradition. When they were called to the Mission to help cultivate the vine, they realized they’d stumbled upon grapes that could be traced back to its establishment.

    When Terri Huerta called local winemakers about a problem with a meandering vine at Mission San Gabriel in the city of San Gabriel, she thought she'd get gardening help. Instead, she sparked a revival of L.A.'s oldest wine.

    A massive, gnarled grapevine trunk with thick, twisted wood sits in a circular planter bed at Mission San Gabriel, with green grape leaves growing on an overhead wooden pergola and an informational plaque visible to the right
    Mission San Gabriel's 250-year-old grapevine, one of the oldest living vines in California, continues to produce grapes for the Angelica wine revival.
    (
    Brandon Killman
    /
    LAist
    )

    The vine in question isn't your typical grapevine. It's a 250-year-old beast with a trunk so massive two people can't wrap their arms around it. Because it served as the source for cuttings that spread throughout California's early vineyards, it’s now known as the Mother Vine.

    For centuries, it just sprawled across the mission courtyard like some ancient, living pergola that refuses to quit, with no one taking any notice of the grapes flourishing each season.

    But now, thanks to a group of determined local winemakers, that fruit is being transformed into Angelica, a sweet wine fortified with brandy that Franciscan missionaries made there in the 1700s — making it the city’s oldest wine.

    A limited edition batch was launched Nov. 28 by the Angeleno Wine Company. There are fewer than 200 bottles for sale, and at $75, it's not cheap. But break that down by the vine's age, and you're paying 30 cents per year of history.

    How it started

    The collaboration began in 2020 when Huerta, director of mission development at Mission San Gabriel, reached out to the Los Angeles Vintners Association looking for help to manage the grapevine.

    The association — a partnership among three L.A. wineries: Angeleno Wine Company, Byron Blatty Wines and Cavalletti Vineyards — sent winemakers Mark Blatty, Patrick Kelly, Jasper Dickson and Amy Luftig to assess the situation. They found something bigger than a courtyard cleanup project. They found grapes. A lot of them.

    "The vine was full of fruit, and I told them it was just a nuisance every year," Huerta recalls. "They asked, 'What are you going to do with all this fruit?' and I said, 'I really don't know.'”

    That's when the group offered to help take it off Huerta’s hands.

    Dark purple grapes on stems arranged on a wall.
    Grapes from Mission San Gabriel's 250-year-old grapevine used in the Angelica wine revival.
    (
    Courtesy of John Pryor
    )

    Wine history

    Although the Napa Valley now reigns supreme as the region’s wine industry, L.A. once was the center for the entire state. Mission San Gabriel’s vine was planted by Franciscan friars after the establishment of the mission in 1775 to make sacramental wine to be used during mass. DNA analysis has since revealed its forebears: It's a hybrid of Spanish Listán Prieto grapes and native California Vitis girdiana.

    This vine’s cuttings helped launch the many vineyards that began to crop up around the newly founded grape fields, which became numerous. By 1850, L.A. boasted over 100 vineyards. If you look carefully, even today, the city of L.A.’s seal has a bunch of grapes hanging at the top.

    The City of Los Angeles official seal featuring a shield divided into four quadrants showing the American flag, California bear, an eagle, a castle tower, and a lion, surrounded by text reading "City of Los Angeles Founded 1781"
    The official seal of the city of Los Angeles.
    (
    Courtesy city of Los Angeles
    )

    The wines were popular with fortune seekers headed north to the Gold Rush. The industry flourished until 1883, when an outbreak of Pierce's Disease destroyed thousands of acres of vines across SoCal. Urban sprawl replaced vineyards with housing through the mid-20th century.

    Today, almost nothing remains of L.A. 's once-dominant wine industry — with the exception of the Mother Vine and a handful of its descendants scattered across the city.

    Across from Union Station a direct descendant is still growing over tourist and vendor heads. It’s a 200-year-old vine at Olvera Street's Avila Adobe, the oldest standing residence in the city of L.A.

    Storing up the grapes

    The winemakers started picking the fruit at the Mission in 2020. But it wasn’t enough to make a substantial batch of wine, so the grapes were stored. For the past five years, the winemakers, joined with volunteers, have harvested the fruit each season, carefully packing it away.

    In the meantime, they began to dig into mission records for mentions of grapes and winemaking. One day they came across a document from the 1800s, which outlined a recipe for Angelica, a fortified wine made from grape juice and brandy.

    "Angelica is said to be made by mixing one gallon of grape brandy with three of grape juice, fresh from the press," it said. "It is a thick, sweet and strong drink, yet of very delicate flavor."

    The fortification wasn't just about taste — it was a necessity. In an era before refrigeration, adding brandy preserved the wine, allowing it to survive California's heat and long journeys between missions.

    Two of the winemakers, Dickson and Luftig, were especially interested. They’d been making wine from grapes grown locally in the SoCal region since 2018 at their winery Angeleno Wine Company, which produces everything on-site near Chinatown.

    They became intrigued by the idea of recreating Angelica. Following the historical recipe, they pressed fresh Mission grapes and fortified the juice with brandy before fermentation. Then they used the solera system — a traditional Spanish method that blends wines across multiple vintages — aging the wine in oak barrels for years.

    Initially, they made limited batches solely for the company’s wine club members, which quickly sold out.

    This year’s Angelica is the group’s third batch but the first to go on sale to the public. It includes grapes that have been harvested from 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023 and 2024.

    The wine pours a pale cherry color and has a syrup-like consistency. The brandy comes through right away, caramel and warm spices with refreshing acidity cutting through the sweetness. It's thick, decadent and undeniably strong — a small glass (or two) is all that’s needed after a warm holiday meal.

    Angelica wine

    • Visit Mission San Gabriel to see the Mother Vine's massive trunk and sprawling pergola at 428 S. Mission Drive, San Gabriel.
    • Angelica wine is available through Angeleno Wine Company, 1646 N. Spring St., Unit C, Los Angeles.

    The harvest

    Harvesting the grapes doesn't look like the romantic wine country fantasy you see in magazines.

    Instead of long rows of vines with grapes easily accessed, harvesters have to pick the fruit from below the canopy.

    "Everyone has to bring ladders because we're picking like this," Dickson says, gesturing upward in the Mission’s courtyard. "We're literally placing ladders on ancient monks' tombstones to reach the fruit above the graves."

    This year the harvest happened in October.

    Several people standing on ladders and stools picking grapes from an overhead wooden pergola covered in grapevines at Mission San Gabriel.
    Volunteers harvest grapes at Mission San Gabriel for the Angelica wine revival project.
    (
    Amy Luftig
    /
    Angeleno Wine Co.
    )

    John Pryor, a volunteer, has done multiple harvests. He describes it plainly: "You're not in a vineyard. You're in a garden at a Catholic church. The vines are trellised 12 feet high and go on for a hundred yards."

    For his daughter, 27 year-old Meg Pryor, seeing the massive trunk drove home what "old" actually means.

    "Whenever we're there, I'm thinking, 'People were doing this a century ago, two centuries ago,'" she said.

    Two people in black clothing stand under a wooden pergola covered with grapevines at Mission San Gabriel, one standing on a ladder with a blue harvest bucket on the ground
    John and Meg Pryor help harvest grapes from Mission San Gabriel's historic grapevine for the Angelica wine revival project.
    (
    Courtesy of John Pryor
    )

    Understanding who most of those workers were centuries ago means confronting some difficult issues. Huerta of Mission San Gabriel acknowledges the mission system relied on Indigenous labor, and the vine's hybrid nature suggests native plant knowledge may have contributed to its development.

    But she doesn't shy away from the complexity.

    "You can't tell Mission history without including all the parts," she says. "You can't tell one story without telling another story. Winemaking has always been a part of L.A. history. The grapes were brought by the Franciscans. They didn't just start here in California. They started in Mexico, so its complexity makes it interesting, but it also makes it controversial."

    Going forward, Angeleno Wine Company plans to release a limited batch of Angelica as a seasonal offering each year, as long as the Mother Vine continues to produce fruit.

  • SCOTUS allows state to use new congressional map

    Topline:

    The Supreme Court has cleared the way for Texas to use a new congressional map that could help Republicans win five more U.S. House seats in the 2026 midterm election. A lower court found the map likely is unconstitutional.

    Why it matters: The decision released Thursday boosts the GOP's chances of preserving its slim majority in the House of Representatives amid an unprecedented gerrymandering fight launched by President Donald Trump, who has been pushing Texas and other GOP-led states to redraw their congressional districts to benefit Republicans. The high court's unsigned order follows Texas' emergency request for the justices to pause a three-judge panel's ruling blocking the state's recently redrawn map.

    The backstory: After holding a nine-day hearing in October, that panel found challengers of the new map are likely to prove in a trial that the map violates the Constitution by discriminating against voters based on race. For the next year's midterms, the panel ordered Texas to keep using the congressional districts the state's GOP-controlled legislature drew in 2021. In November, after the panel blocked the new map, Justice Samuel Alito allowed Texas to temporarily reinstate it while the Supreme Court reviewed the state's emergency request.

    The Supreme Court has cleared the way for Texas to use a new congressional map that could help Republicans win five more U.S. House seats in the 2026 midterm election.

    The decision released Thursday boosts the GOP's chances of preserving its slim majority in the House of Representatives amid an unprecedented gerrymandering fight launched by President Donald Trump, who has been pushing Texas and other GOP-led states to redraw their congressional districts to benefit Republicans.

    The high court's unsigned order follows Texas' emergency request for the justices to pause a three-judge panel's ruling blocking the state's recently redrawn map.

    After holding a nine-day hearing in October, that panel found challengers of the new map are likely to prove in a trial that the map violates the Constitution by discriminating against voters based on race.

    In its majority opinion, authored by a Trump nominee, the panel cited a letter from the Department of Justice and multiple public statements by key Republican state lawmakers that suggested their map drawer manipulated the racial demographics of voting districts to eliminate existing districts where Black and Latino voters together make up the majority. For the next year's midterms, the panel ordered Texas to keep using the congressional districts the state's GOP-controlled legislature drew in 2021.

    But in Texas' filing to the Supreme Court, the state claimed the lawmakers were not motivated by race and were focused instead on drawing new districts that are more likely to elect Republicans.

    In November, after the panel blocked the new map, Justice Samuel Alito allowed Texas to temporarily reinstate it while the Supreme Court reviewed the state's emergency request.

    The mid-decade redistricting plan Texas Republicans passed in August sparked a counter response by Democratic leaders in California, where voters in a special election in November approved a new congressional map that could help Democrats gain five additional House seats. A court hearing for a legal challenge to that map is set for Dec. 15.

    The rest of the redistricting landscape remains unsettled as well. Lawsuits are challenging new gerrymanders in places like Missouri, where there is also a contested referendum effort. And other states, including Florida, Indiana and Virginia, may also pursue new districts prior to the midterms.

    Last week, a federal court ruled to allow North Carolina's midterm election to be held under a recently redrawn map that could give Republicans an additional seat.

    Another wave of congressional redistricting may be coming soon depending on what — and when — the Supreme Court decides in a voting rights case about Louisiana's congressional map. After the court held a rare rehearing for that case in October, some states are watching for a potential earlier-than-usual ruling that may allow Republican-led states to draw more GOP-friendly districts in time for the 2026 midterms.

    Edited by Benjamin Swasey
    Copyright 2025 NPR

  • Is it worth it? We explore
    A sauced tamal served in a shallow pool of rich red chile sauce, topped with fresh greens and sliced red onion.
    At Sí! Mon in Venice, Chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas puts his spin on Panamanian tamal tradition with a rich, lamb neck version.

    Topline:

    Three L.A.-area chefs are reimagining tamales with high-end ingredients and global techniques, from a $27 Panamanian lamb neck version in Venice to a $21 dish with hyperlocal farm-grown ingredients in Orange County. These aren't replacements for traditional tamales — they're explorations of what happens when fine dining ambition meets this centuries-old form.

    Why it matters: Tamales are deeply rooted in tradition, often tied to family recipes and holiday gatherings. These chef-driven versions respect that heritage while proving the dish can hold its own in upscale contexts beyond the Mexican versions most Angelenos know. They're expanding the conversation about what tamales can be without abandoning what makes them special.

    Why now: The holiday season is tamal season in L.A., when families gather for tamaladas and local bakeries sell out daily. But this year, chefs across the region are offering versions that push beyond tradition — some available only as limited seasonal specials, others as glimpses of ambitious tasting menus to come.

    Growing up in Whittier, tamales have always been part of who I am — whether from local bakeries like La Moderna, where my mother always orders the day after Thanksgiving, or our annual tamalada with family friends, where we churn out hundreds in slightly drunken assembly-line fashion.

    Over the years, I've explored beyond the traditional Mexican versions: El Salvadoran styles from What's That You're Cooking in Orange County to the Chinese lo mai gai found at dim sum spots across the city. My pursuit of new tamal variations is relentless, especially this time of year.

    So when I heard about a $27 lamb neck tamal in Venice, I had to know: could an elevated, chef-driven approach ever justify that price? Since a few other restaurants are also recreating the humble dish with a high-end approach, I decided to go and try them.

    What I discovered was that these aren't replacements for traditional tamales — they're explorations of what happens when fine dining ambition meets this centuries-old form.

    Si! Mon (Venice)

    Si! Mon opened in 2023 in the former James Beach space, a collaboration between chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas and restaurateurs Louie and Netty Ryan, known for Venice-adjacent mainstays Hatchet Hall and Menotti's Coffee Stop. Si! Mon offers Carles Rojas' take on Panamanian fine dining, drawing on Panama's melting pot of Chinese, French, Spanish, African and Caribbean influences.

    For the holidays, Carles Rojas is offering a $27 lamb neck tamal — a clear departure from the Mexican versions most Angelenos know. And while the price might cause some sticker shock, it’s worth considering what goes into it and how much food there is.

    Wrapped in a banana leaf, the tamal uses a lighter, softer masa enriched with the lamb neck’s braising liquid. Rojas pulls the meat, tosses it with sofrito until it takes on a sauce-like consistency, then adds Indian-style quick-pickled dates for sweetness and olives for brine. Finally, the tamal is finished in Si! mon's wood-fired oven, adding subtle smokiness.

    My verdict? After taking that first bite, I can tell you… it’s worth the splurge. One tamal is meant to be shared between two people, which partly explains the price point (though I had no problem finishing mine solo). I’ve had plenty of Central American tamales over the years — Salvadoran versions with their silky masa, Nicaraguan nacatamales loaded with vegetables and pork — but Carles’ take pulls out all the stops. This is a deluxe, bells-and-whistles vision: sweet, salty, and deeply savory all at once, comforting yet unlike anything I’ve tasted before.

    Yes, it is a high price, but I’d say it reflects the time, technique and premium ingredients behind it.

    Location: 60 N. Venice Blvd., Venice
    Hours: Monday through Thursday,  5 to 10 p.m., Friday through Saturday,  5 p.m. to midnight, Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m.

    KOMAL (South L.A.)

    A tamal wrapped in corn husk topped with thin-sliced pickled vegetables, fresh cilantro blossoms, and a zigzag of crema.
    A Guatemalan-style chuchito tamal from KOMAL at Mercado de Paloma in South L.A.
    (
    Frank WonHo
    /
    Courtesy KOMAL
    )

    KOMAL is L.A.'s first craft molino (mill), founded by Fátima Júarez and Conrado Rivera, former employees of Michelin-rated Holbox, who opened this masa-centric counter inside South L.A.'s Mercado La Paloma. The name is Nahuatl for "comal," the traditional flat griddle used to cook tortillas.

    I wanted to try the chuchito ($11), a regular menu staple at KOMAL. Júarez refers to the dish as a gift — both for the unwrapping it requires and the labor of love behind it. Each one takes more than 22 hours to make, starting with nixtamalizing heirloom corn to create the masa. (Nixtamalization, an ancient Mesoamerican process, involves soaking and cooking corn in an alkaline solution to improve its flavor, texture, and nutrition).

    The result is a fluffy steamed tamal filled with tender pork and crowned with roasted pepper and tomato sauce, pickled cabbage and vegetables, and crema. The dish honors her kitchen team, most of whom are from Guatemala, and it's KOMAL's way of putting their heritage front and center on the menu.

    Beyond the chuchito, Júarez is offering three special tamales as holiday pick-ups for Christmas and New Year's: a deep, complex tamal rojo filled with sweet corn and squash calabacita, a vibrant tomatillo-based tamal verde filled with chicken, and a tamal de leche made with oranges and strawberry jam, a sweet version that hints at the pre-Hispanic tasting menu they're developing.

    After the holidays, these tamales will transition to appearing exclusively at Komal's planned ancestral and ceremonial dinners in 2026 — making this a rare chance to try them before they become part of a more formal dining experience.

    Available by the half-dozen ($45) or the dozen ($90), they can be ordered for pick-up at KOMAL on Tuesday, Dec. 23, or Tuesday, Dec. 30.

    Location: 3655 S. Grand Ave, Los Angeles
    Hours: Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

    Campesino Café at The Ecology Center (San Juan Capistrano)

    Aaron Zimmer, head chef of Campesino Café at The Ecology Center, works within a unique constraint: everything on his menu comes from the 28-acre regenerative organic farm surrounding the restaurant. That includes the corn he grows, dries, harvests and processes into masa for his tamales.

    For the winter season, Zimmer is offering two versions that reflect what's abundant on the farm right now. The shelling bean and cheese tamal ($21) features beans from one of four varieties they grow on-site — shelling beans are harvested before they're thoroughly dried, prized for their creamy texture and delicate, earthy flavor. The cooked-down beans are incorporated into the fresh masa with cheese, then topped with chili con queso made with pickled giardiniera from their summer harvest.

    Two tamales side by side: one covered in dark mole with pickled onions and herbs, the other topped with melted cheese and finished with pickled onions.
    Campesino Café’s tamal duo pairs winter squash in walnut mole with a shelling-bean-and-cheese tamal topped with chile con queso.
    (
    Gab Chabrán
    /
    LAist
    )

    The winter squash tamal ($21) features squash finished with a walnut mole sauce. The sweet, nutty texture, combined with the squash's sweet, earthy flavors and soft, fresh-tasting masa, creates a highly multidimensional bite.

    Both are wrapped in masa and steamed in corn husks, then topped with whatever's available in the larder at any given moment, such as freshly grown cilantro or pickled onion.

    It's a hyperlocal, intensely seasonal approach that makes each tamal a snapshot of what the farm is producing — versatile, sustainable, and entirely tied to the land it comes from.

    Location: 32701 Alipaz St., San Juan Capistrano
    Hours: Open daily, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.