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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • California's pre-K program has money woes
    A white wall with metal hangers lined with children's school backpacks of various colors.
    Backpacks hanging outside the TK classroom at Will Rogers Elementary School.

    Topline:

    In 2021, California embarked on a $2.7 billion plan to offer TK to all 4-year-olds by the 2025-2026 school year in what’s poised to be the largest free preschool program in the country. But school districts across the state are struggling to build or modify the classroom space most appropriate for these new young learners who have specific needs.

    Why it matters: State requirements for new TK classrooms are different than those of typical classrooms. 4-year-olds can’t just sit at desks all day. They also need space to play. They need supervision when going to the bathroom, which means having a restroom inside the classroom, or close by.

    What's the state doing? Last month, the governor in his May revised budget cut more than half a billion dollars intended for a grant program to help school districts build or renovate transitional kindergarten classrooms. That program requires school districts to be able to provide matching funds at the local level.

    Key Points

    • California has embarked on what’s poised to be the largest free pre-K program in the country. But school districts are struggling to build or modify the classroom space most appropriate for these new young learners.
    • In 2022, the state expanded a grant program to help school districts build or renovate transitional kindergarten classrooms. That program requires school districts to be able to provide matching funds at the local level. And districts have asserted that the way funding is structured makes it harder for lower-resourced districts to get money.
    • Grant applications indicate there's more than a $1 billion difference between need and what's available.

    When Thomas Pace, director of facilities at San Bernardino City Unified, thinks about all the construction that needs to happen at the schools in his district, he struggles to get the math to work.

    Listen 4:16
    California Is Adding A New Grade For All 4-Year-Olds. But Not Every District Has The Right Space For Them

    Many of the existing kindergarten classrooms don’t meet state standards, and now, they’re preparing to layer in another grade for young children: transitional kindergarten.

    In 2021, California embarked on a $2.7 billion plan to offer TK to all 4-year-olds by the 2025-2026 school year in what’s poised to be the largest free preschool program in the country.

    But school districts across the state, like Pace’s, are struggling to build or modify the facilities most appropriate for these new young learners.

    Transitional Kindergarten In California

    California is in the middle of an ambitious plan to offer transitional kindergarten to all 4-year-olds by the 2025-2026 school year. LAist and KQED have teamed up to examine some of the challenges the state faces as it tries to add a new grade to its sprawling public school system.

    Why the rollout is expensive and hard

    San Bernardino City Unified is at the tail end of using $250 million in bond money the city raised over a decade ago for school improvements.

    “All of the specialized space is highly expensive, and for those school districts that lack the local resources, we struggle to make those improvements on a grand scale,” Pace said. “So we were already struggling to catch up even in the kinder realm. Now you add in a greater offering for TK, it just puts a larger burden on local school districts.”

    State requirements for new TK classrooms (and kindergarten classrooms) are different than those of typical classrooms. Four-year-olds can’t just sit at desks all day. They also need space to play, indoors and outdoors. They also need supervision when going to the bathroom, which means having a restroom inside the classroom, or close by.

    In San Bernardino, 150 of the 190 early education classrooms don’t meet those standards, Pace said.

    An initial analysis of state data by the Learning Policy Institute, yet to be published, found most districts reported having classroom space for early learners, but a third expressed concerns about adequate facilities, including square footage, bathrooms, and outdoor play areas.

    In 2022, California expanded a grant program to help school districts build or renovate TK classrooms. Through two rounds of funding, the state has given out $585.9 million dollars.

    What Is Transitional Kindergarten?

    In 2010, state lawmakers required districts to offer a new program— transitional kindergarten— to kids who would be excluded from kindergarten because of a change to the cutoff age.

    The California Department of Education considers pre-K as an umbrella term — transitional kindergarten is pre-K, but not everything that could be considered pre-K is transitional kindergarten. (Programs like Head Start, for example.)

    Read more.

    But that program requires school districts to be able to provide matching funds at the local level. And districts have asserted that the way funding is structured makes it harder for lower-resourced districts to get money.

    “We have lots of classrooms that need to be modified,” Pace said. “We lack the local funding source to match, and we lack the state funding for it. So if the governor doesn't continue to fund TK improvements to facilities, we are going to struggle.”

    Last month, the governor in his May revised budget cut more than half a billion dollars for that program. Lawmakers are weighing putting a statewide bond on the ballot in November.

    A spokesperson for the Department of General Services said in its last filing round, $1.04 billion worth of requests were not funded.

    Why learning environments matter

    Children gather around on a large colorful rug in the center of a TK classroom at Will Rogers Elementary in Santa Monica. The classroom has a wooden toddler play loft, puppets and toys, and tiny-sized furniture for 4-year-olds. But it’s only about 900 square feet and doesn’t have a restroom inside.

    Space is important for young children, because they learn through play, said Susan Samarge-Powell, director of early learning at Santa Monica-Malibu Unified School District.

    “So rather than students sitting at a desk all day long, that's not what our early learning environments are about. It's about moving around, they're moving all day long. And so having that space to afford them that ability is a big deal,” she said.

    She said restrooms are also a big deal because 4-year-olds don't have quite the same bladder control as older kids.

    "When you have little bodies, they have to go to the bathroom often. With the older kids, we can say, we're going before recess. But with littles, whenever they're ready, you have to go. So, it's a challenge," she said.

    Across the other side of the elementary school, construction is underway to build new early learning classrooms that offer students an ideal environment — with their own play yard and their own bathrooms. District officials hope it’ll be ready by summer of 2025, but the district won’t be finished with most of its other TK construction until 2026 or 2027, said Carey Upton, the district’s chief operations officer.

    “We’re playing catchup, and I think all school districts are,” Upton said. But Upton added his district, which includes Malibu, has the benefit of high-assessed property values and bond measures that tend to pass.

    “It works OK for school districts that have funding. It works really poorly for school districts that don't, who don't have the money to front the costs,” Upton said.

    Should the state wait to expand TK?

    When state lawmakers announced the expansion of TK in 2021, officials said it would provide “high quality learning opportunities” for every child.

    But Sara Hinkley, a program manager for the University of California, Berkeley’s Center for Cities + Schools, says quality may look different based on ZIP code.

    “If you see that as being very uneven, then the idea of TK being a way to make up the difference between kids who have access to nice, expensive preschool experiences and kids whose families can't afford to send them to those kinds of experiences — we've kind of missed the entire goal of the expanded program, and that would be a shame,” Hinkley said.

    “I think what we'll also end up seeing is that local districts that can raise money locally, that can issue voter-approved general obligation bonds to retrofit these facilities, will have better educational environments for their very young kids,” she said.

    LAist reached out to Assemblymember Kevin McCarty, who authored the expansion of transitional kindergarten. His office said he was unable to comment.

    Dale Farran, professor emeritus at Vanderbilt University, said the state should wait to implement TK until schools have the appropriate spaces for it.

    Farran worked on a 2022 study in Tennessee that found that students who went to Tennessee’s public pre-K program had more behavior problems and lower test scores.

    “[Kids] need to be up, they need to be exploring, they need to be interacting with each other and with the teacher, and they need to have an environment that facilitates all of that happening,” she said.

    An outdoor garden where various young students stand facing their teacher.
    The garden at Will Rogers Elementary School where students can have classes to maintain it.
    (
    Ashley Balderrama
    /
    LAist
    )

    When bathrooms aren’t in the classroom for instance, or their lunch is in the cafeteria with older students, it leads to more “transition” time, she explained — kids having to line up to go to the bathroom, or walk down the hall. Not only does that lead to less learning time, it leads to teachers having to exert more behavioral control on kids, she said.

    “There's a lot of just waiting. And what happens with 4-year-olds and 5-year-olds is they get fidgety during all that wait time, right? And they may even start talking to a friend. And that leads teachers then to start what we call ‘behavior disapproval.’ Like, ‘put a bubble in your mouth,’ or ‘I told you no talking in the hall,’” she said. “And so children are hearing a lot more no's than they are hearing yes's. And that's also not good for children.”

    If not done right, she said: “It will solidify the inequity at an earlier age.”

    How does the state help besides money?

    The California Department of Education says there are ways to make classrooms best suited for children, beyond the actual building. It’s advising local school districts on best practices — on how to arrange child-sized furniture and make classrooms appropriate for 4-year-olds. The department also has a toolkit on helping kids go to the bathroom.

    When bathrooms aren't inside the classroom, teachers work with aides and other support staff to make sure they're taking kids to the restrooms in teams and developmentally appropriate ways, said Sarah Neville-Morgan, deputy superintendent at CDE.

    “I think it goes far beyond what the school looks like now,” she said.

    A kindergarten classroom with colorful carpeting where various student sit facing the front of the room looking at projector. A teacher stands in the front corner of the classroom. There are carious wooden pieces of furniture to store toys and books.
    One of the TK classes at Will Rogers Elementary School working on a project.
    (
    Ashley Balderrama
    /
    LAist
    )

    A study by the American Institutes for Research found children who attended TK in California had stronger literacy and math skills when entering kindergarten than kids who didn’t attend the program.

    Neville-Morgan also pointed to touring Boston preschools, where, in one case, children had to go up a floor to use the restroom because they’re in an older building. “But their outcomes, their results from the Boston public schools, universal pre-K are phenomenal,” she said.

    She said giving 4-year-olds access to transitional kindergarten will better set them up for success later in life.

    “We're investing in [TK]... to give more children, those chances, those opportunities to later go out and have access to home ownership, to higher ed or for pathways that give them, not just a living wage, but a really good salary occupation,” she said.

    Who Oversees The State's Education Budget?

    The California State Assembly's Subcommittee on Education Finance and the State Senate's Education Committee are the points of contact for proposals and oversight of public education funding, including:

    • PreK-12 public schools
    • School facilities
    • Community colleges
    • Adult and career technical education
    • California State University
    • University of California
    • The Commission on Teacher Credentialing
    • The Student Aid Commission
    • The California State Library

    Thoughts? Questions? Concerns? Contact members of the state assembly or the state senate.

    What do districts without local funds do?

    San Bernardino City Unified got some funding from the state grant program to help build an early learning center at the site of a high school, but that would be for just seven classrooms across a large district. Pace said the district didn’t apply for another round because they didn’t have enough local money to put up a match, which the state requires for the grants. There’s an exception for financial hardship, but that adds some limits on how money can be spent.

    "That's the inequitable part about the system — if you have the money, you can turn in [the applications],” Pace said.

    Fontana Unified School District applied for more than $23 million but hasn’t received any of it, and the district is in the process of putting up a bond in November. Leslie Barnes, an associate superintendent at Fontana Unified, said the district is looking to put TK classrooms in seven schools.

    “The fact that they haven't slowed down the TK rollout, but yet aren't providing the funding we need to be available to provide that on our own,” Barnes said.

    Alan Reising, business services administrator with Long Beach Unified and chair of the Coalition for Adequate School Housing, said districts will be forced to re-prioritize their local dollars.

    “It was disappointing because there's such a demand out there for [the funding],” he said.

    “Whether or not we are ready for them, students are coming,” Reising said. “And so we will do what we have done for decades, which is, we will make do with what we have.”

  • State halts ambitious SoCal Gas hydrogen project
    The SoCal Gas Community Service Office in Porter Ranch. The company said its Angeles Link project would lower the amount of methane gas stored at the Aliso Canyon storage facility above the L.A. neighborhood, where the largest known methane leak in US history from the SoCal Gas facility occurred in 2015.

    Topline:

    State regulators voted Thursday to stop Southern California Gas Co. from charging customers to help pay for planning miles of pipelines that would bring hydrogen gas to the L.A. Basin, effectively halting the effort.

    The vote: . SoCal Gas had proposed a monthly increase of $0.35 on the average residential customer bill over the course of three years to help fund the effort. The commission unanimously rejected the request, saying the company had not proved any direct benefit to customers.

    Why it matters: Hydrogen is a clean-burning fuel that experts say is likely a critical piece of the effort the cut planet-heating pollution. But it's expensive and largely untested.

    Keep reading for more details.

    State regulators voted Thursday to stop Southern California Gas Co. from charging customers to help pay for planning miles of pipelines that would bring hydrogen gas to the L.A. Basin.

    The company says the project would reduce the region’s reliance on methane gas.

    Southern California Gas estimates it would cost about $266 million to study and plan the project — called Angeles Link — and asked the state Public Utilities Commission to allow it to recover those costs through customer rates. The company had proposed a monthly increase of $0.35 on the average residential customer bill over the course of three years.

    The commission unanimously rejected the request, saying the company had not proved any direct benefit to customers. The decision effectively halts the project for now, and comes amid a stall in federal funding for hydrogen projects under the Trump administration.

    Local environmental groups involved in the community advisory process had also grown frustrated by negotiations that they said, in a letter to state regulators, “does not prioritize genuine community engagement.”

    As global pollution levels continue to climb, the commission’s decision also highlights the growing challenge of transitioning to a cleaner energy supply amid rising utility bills and open questions about the safety and true environmental cost of largely untested technology.

    Why hydrogen?

    Hydrogen is a colorless gas that is considered "clean" because it doesn’t involve carbon, which — when burned to create energy — becomes carbon dioxide, a major planet-heating gas.

    But it takes energy to produce hydrogen, and most hydrogen these days is created by burning fossil fuels. “Green” hydrogen is created by using clean energy sources like solar and wind to split water into oxygen and hydrogen.

    SoCal Gas said the Angeles Link project would prioritize green hydrogen.

    Most experts see green hydrogen as an important clean-burning fuel for hard-to-electrify industries, such as long-haul trucking and gas-fired power generation. The city of Los Angeles, for example, wants to retrofit its Scattergood Power Plant near El Segundo to burn hydrogen instead of methane gas to generate electricity.

    There are many open questions about how safe the highly-combustible gas is for proposed uses and how much water it will require to make. At the same time, extracting and burning fossil fuels for electricity and fuel also takes water — a growing problem as climate change drives longer and hotter droughts.

    Experts say, if done right, hydrogen can reduce that water intake and not have a major impact on water supplies.

    Also, burning hydrogen could actually worsen local, lung-damaging nitrogen-oxide air pollution, at least with the technology as it currently stands, according to energy researchers.

    Reactions to the decision

    SoCal Gas will now have to turn to shareholders or other sources of funding if the company wants to proceed. The company did not directly answer LAist’s questions about whether it would.

    “We continue to believe that hydrogen—including clean renewable hydrogen—can help advance California’s energy and climate goals while supporting the long‑term affordability, security and reliability of energy service for customers,” SoCal Gas spokesperson Brian Haas wrote in an email to LAist.

    Environmental groups celebrated the vote, while emphasizing they see green hydrogen playing a role in the state’s future.

    “Residential customers should not subsidize speculative infrastructure for large industrial users,” said Michael Colvin, director of the California Energy Program at Environmental Defense Fund, in a statement.

    “We look forward to working with regulators, utilities and large customers to build a credible, cost-effective strategy to cut climate pollution from sectors that are hardest to electrify,” the statement read.

  • Sponsored message
  • Here are some murals you won’t want to miss
    Fans take photos beneath a new outdoor mural depicting Los Angeles Dodgers star Shohei Ohtani
    Fans take photos beneath a mural depicting L.A. Dodgers star Shohei Ohtani, created by artist Robert Vargas on the Miyako Hotel in Little Tokyo.

    Topline:

    Global events like the World Cup and the 2028 Olympics are sure to draw thousands of new visitors wanting to get to know Los Angeles. For those interested in exploring the region’s art, here are a few murals you won’t want to miss.

    Why it matters: L.A. has been called the mural capital of the world, with its widespread collection of public art.

    Read on … for a must-see list of the area’s murals.

    Global events like the World Cup and the 2028 Olympics are sure to draw thousands of new visitors wanting to get to know Los Angeles.

    L.A. has a lot to offer, including its vast and varied portfolio of public art. It’s even been referred to as the mural capital of the world. So if you want to explore some of the city’s art, here are a few murals you won’t want to miss.

    Sports 

    “LA Rising” at the Miyako Hotel in Little Tokyo celebrates the Dodgers’ Shohei Ohtani, depicting him in his two roles — hitter and pitcher.
    - Where to find it: 328 First St., Los Angeles

    “Blue Heaven on Earth” is a love letter to the Dodgers, depicting both Shohei Ohtani and the late Fernando Venezuela.
    - Where to find it: 1647 Blake Ave., Los Angeles

    A man on a ladder paints on a white wall. In the painting a woman with brown and blonde hair smiles while taking a bite of her gold Olympic medal. Portions of the American flag can be seen wrapped around her shoulders.
    A mural honoring Winter Olympics Gold Medalist Alysa Liu in Gardena.
    (
    Jay L Clendenin
    /
    Getty Images
    )

    California native and Olympian Alysa Liu captured the world’s attention with her figure skating in the Winter Olympics. This mural in Gardena celebrates her win.
    - Where to find it: 15532 Crenshaw Blvd., Gardena

    A tall man wears a Lakers jersey. He has his arm around a small girl who has a white basketball jersey that reads, "MAMBA." The two have angels wings behind them.
    A mural of L.A. Lakers legend Kobe Bryant and his daughter Gianna can be found outside Hardcore Fitness L.A.
    (
    Mel Melcon/Los Angeles Times via Getty Imag
    /
    Los Angeles Times
    )

    “City of Angels!” pays tribute to Lakers legend Kobe Bryant and his daughter, Gigi.
    - Where to find it: 400 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles

    Music

    Whitney Houston, Rihanna, Aaliyah, Amy Winehouse and Selena are memorialized on this Hollywood mural.
    - Where to find it: 7677 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles 

    “Jazz on the field” is an ode to Wrigley Field and the Dunbar Hotel in South L.A. and depicts jazz icons Louis Armstrong and Etta James, as well as Martin Luther King Jr.
    - Where to find it: 43rd St. and Grand Ave., Los Angeles

    When Kendrick Lamar featured Tam’s Burgers in his “Not Like Us” music video, the burger spot in Compton commissioned a mural highlighting the rapper’s unforgettable single.
    - Where to find it: 1201 Rosecrans Ave, Compton

    Historic to LA

    A mural depicts crowds of people protesting outside a yellow multi-story building.
    A section of the Great Wall of Los Angeles mural, designed by muralist Judy Baca, that showcases pivotal moments in Los Angeles History.
    (
    Ashley Balderrama
    /
    LAist
    )

    “The Great Wall of Los Angeles” is one of the largest murals in the world, and it’s supposed to get bigger. The half-mile art piece depicts California’s rich history.
    - Where to find it: Along the L.A. River in the San Fernando Valley, on Coldwater Canyon Avenue between Burbank Boulevard and Oxnard Street. 

    “The Blessing of the Animals” at La Placita Olvera depicts the Catholic tradition of blessing one’s animals.
    - Where to find it: 115 Paseo De La Plaza, Los Angeles

    “El Grito” depicts a scene that sparked Mexican independence from Spanish rule.
    - Where to find it: Placita de Dolores at 831 N. Alameda St., Los Angeles

  • One burrito. A lot of feelings
    A lomo saltado burrito cut in half with spicy mayo being poured over the cross-section, revealing wok-fired steak, beans, peppers and rice inside.
    The lomo saltado burrito at Merka Saltao in Culver City, served with your choice of homemade sauce.

    Topline:

    Alonso Franco and Ignacio Barrios, two lifelong friends from Lima, opened Merka Saltao in Culver City in August 2025, with a simple mission: to bring Peruvian food to everyday American diets through a fast-casual format built around lomo saltado — Peru's most iconic dish. Then a viral storm blew up.

    Why it matters: Peruvian cuisine has long punched below its weight in the U.S. despite being one of the most complex and biodiverse food cultures in the world. Franco and Barrios are betting that accessibility — not exclusivity — is the key to changing that, offering bowls starting at $13.60 in a neighborhood where Erewhon and Cava are the competition.

    Why now: A lomo saltado burrito on their menu sparked an online backlash from self-described Peruvian purists who accused the owners of "Mexicanizing" their heritage — igniting a broader debate about authenticity, fusion and who gets to define what a cuisine can become. The controversy, which spilled from Instagram onto Reddit, ultimately drove more customers through the door than any marketing campaign could have.

    What's next: Franco says the restaurant is roughly breaking even and he has his eyes on a second location. For now, he's focused on making Merka Saltao a fixture in Culver City — one burrito, bowl or salad at a time.

    When you take a bite of the lomo saltado burrito from Merka Saltao, a fast-casual Peruvian restaurant in Culver City, one of the first things you'll notice is the sauce.

    The wok-fried chunks of steak, dressed in a soy-and-oyster sauce reduction spiked with vinegar, saturate the rice inside the tortilla, highlighting the sweet heat of ají amarillo mixed with the velvety texture of pinto beans.

    It's a beautiful confluence of flavors. It is also, depending on who you ask, either a creative act of evolution or a betrayal of Peruvian culinary heritage.

    Standing on business

    The lomo saltado burrito at Merka Saltao wasn't exactly a calculated move. Lifelong friends Alonso Franco and Ignacio Barrios — who met in high school in Lima — came to Los Angeles to bring Peruvian food to the masses, first through a ghost kitchen concept they ran from 2021 to 2023. The burrito happened almost by accident: a member of their kitchen team brought in a tortilla one day, someone suggested wrapping the lomo saltado in it, they ate it, and within three days, it was on the menu.

    Merka Saltao co-founders Ignacio Barrios, left, and Alonso Franco, right, both with a light skin tone stand in front of a painted mural of a llama wearing glasses against an orange and white tiled wall inside their Culver City restaurant.
    Merka Saltao co-founders Ignacio Barrios, left, and Alonso Franco, right, inside their Culver City restaurant. The two lifelong friends from Lima opened the fast-casual brick-and-mortar location for their Peruvian concept in August 2025.
    (
    Courtesy Merka Saltao
    )

    The data from the ghost kitchen made the case for keeping it there. Franco and Barrios had launched with around 140 dishes — lomo saltado, ceviche, chicken dishes, the works. But the numbers kept pointing to the same thing: wherever lomo saltado appeared on the menu, in whatever form, burrito, bowl, salad, it was the winner.

    (Ceviche, for all its cultural cachet, is raw fish with raw onion — a harder sell for a weekday lunch. Lomo saltado, Franco noted, is steak and fries — basically a hamburger.)

    The backlash

    The two friends made the leap to brick-and-mortar in August 2025, opening Merka Saltao in downtown Culver City. It's one of the more competitive dining corridors in L.A., the kind of block that can support a $16 wellness bowl and a craft beer bar in the same stretch, populated by Amazon employees on lunch breaks, families on weekend outings, and food-literate regulars who will absolutely have opinions about what goes in a burrito.

    Those opinions arrived faster than Franco expected. Within the first week of opening, an influencer came in and posted about the restaurant — but instead of showing the full menu, the bowls, the chicha morada, the flexibility of the concept, they showed the burrito. Just the burrito.

    A man with a light skin tone, the Merka Saltao co-founder Alonso Franco works a large wok over an open flame in the restaurant's kitchen.
    Franco working the wok at Merka Saltao. The high-heat wok technique at the heart of lomo saltado traces its roots to Chinese immigrants in Peru
    (
    Christopher Mortenson
    /
    Courtesy Merka Saltao
    )

    The comments turned quickly. "No! Peruvians don't eat burritos. ¿Qué car—o es eso?" — roughly, "what the hell is this?" — wrote one commenter. Another said "Burritos? We don't eat burritos in 🇵🇪”. Franco describes sitting at his computer reading the pile-on, feeling something between anger and devastation. "There was a moment where I probably even cried," he said, "thinking, I've made a mistake." But then he looked at the numbers. 30,000 had seen the post…. And half the comments were in his defense.

    He took the conversation to Reddit, posting to r/FoodLosAngeles asking the community directly: am I wrong for this? The response was overwhelming — hundreds of comments, almost entirely in his favor, and a surge of new customers walking through the door shortly after.

    Fusion by default

    This is Los Angeles, where many of the dishes that define the Southern California diet were born precisely from cultures colliding. Roy Choi built an empire on Korean tacos. Al pastor traces its technique to Lebanese immigrants who brought the vertical spit. The California roll, invented by Japanese chefs in Los Angeles in the 1960s, introduced an entire country to sushi. None of these dishes destroyed the traditions they borrowed from. If anything, they expanded their audience. And the lomo saltado burrito isn't exactly a novel concept in Southern California to begin with — everyone from Pablitos Tacos in North Hollywood to Le Hut in Santa Ana, run by 2025 James Beard Award-nominated chef Daniel Castillo, has featured their own version. Even Disney's California Adventure got in on it, serving a lomo saltado burrito out of the Studio Catering Co. food truck as recently as last year.

    A lomo saltado bowl with wok-fired steak, tomatoes, onions and rice sits alongside a lomo saltado burrito served in its container, with a side of french fries and yellow chili sauce at Merka Saltao in Culver City.
    The lomo saltado bowl and burrito at Merka Saltao in Culver City — two versions of the same dish that sparked an unlikely online debate about Peruvian culinary identity.
    (
    Courtesy Merka Saltao
    )

    Franco would also point out that lomo saltado itself — the dish the purists are so eager to protect — is a product of Chinese immigrants bringing the wok and soy sauce to Peru roughly 300 years ago. "Peruvian is by default fusion," he told me. "So we have all the right to wrap it up in a burrito." What the online critics were really doing, whether they knew it or not, was defending a dish that was itself once considered inauthentic — and doing so in the name of authenticity.

    Where things stand

    Since the backlash, Franco says business has been mostly steady — breaking even, which for a concept that requires high volume at a low price point, he considers a good sign. The controversy changed things in ways he didn't expect: people started coming in specifically because of the story, not just the food. He began putting himself front and center in the brand, regularly making videos on social media about what it's like to run the business, occasionally poking fun at himself and the whole debate. When we visited during the weekday lunch rush, there was a steady line of people waiting to order, many stopping to talk with Franco directly.

    In a way, he's answered the authenticity question not with an argument but with a presence — showing up, telling the story, letting the food speak. "Honoring my food, if that requires pairing lomo saltado with a salad or wrapping it in a tortilla, I have no problem," he said. "I'm not being less authentic. We are evolving in Peru anytime. I have to be authentic on the individual flavor and then be flexible to reach more people to discover our flavors."

    The burrito, it turns out, was never the point. It was just the door.

  • Singer to be arraigned Monday
    Britney Spears at a movie premiere in 2019. She pleaded with a judge on Wednesday to end a conservatorship that has controlled her personal and business lives for years.
    Britney Spears at a movie premiere in 2019. She was charged with misdemeanor DUI on Thursday following her arrest in Ventura County in March.

    Topline:

    Britney Spears has been charged with a misdemeanor count of driving under the combined influence of alcohol and at least one drug. The criminal complaint does not mention what kind of alcohol or drugs, or how much, she's accused of being under the influence of on the night of her arrest.

    The backstory: Spears was arrested March 4 after California Highway Patrol pulled her over for speeding and driving erratically in her black BMW on the 101 freeway near her home. According to CHP, she appeared to be impaired, took field sobriety tests and was arrested on suspicion of DUI. She was taken to Ventura County jail and released on bail the next morning. About a month after her arrest, Spears' representatives say the singer checked herself into a substance abuse treatment program.

    What's next: Spears is scheduled to be arraigned Monday, although prosecutors say because it's a misdemeanor charge she won't have to appear in court in person. The Associated Press reports Spears will be offered what's called a "wet reckless" when she appears. It would allow her to plead guilty and get a year of probation, credit for any time served, a required DUI class and some fines and fees. It's a common offer for defendants who demonstrate that they want to get help and address their problems.