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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • Advocates: Vietnamese, Mexican migrants targeted
    A beige building surrounded by green grounds on a clear day. There is a pathway leading to the building with trees on either side.
    OC Central men's and women's jails.

    Topline:

    After a steep lull, Orange County appears to be ramping up its efforts to turn detainees over to federal immigration authorities.

    Last year, 221 detainees were arrested by Immigration and Customs Enforcement agents after the O.C. Sheriff’s Department informed the agency of their release. That was up from just 17 in 2022. While the 2023 number is still far below from the 717 ICE custody transfers in 2018, it marks a sharp upswing after a yearslong decline.

    Who is affected? Immigration advocates say the practice disproportionately targets Orange County’s Mexican and Vietnamese communities. Mai Nguyen Do, research and policy manager at the Harbor Institute for Immigrant & Economic Justice, said the uptick shows that targeting these communities were not exclusive to the Trump administration and that the Southeast Asian deportation crisis is far from over.

    Increase in O.C. but none in L.A.: The Los Angeles County Sheriff’s Department does not comply with ICE detainers, nor does the LAPD. But Orange County has been notifying ICE every year since SB 54 went into effect in 2018. The O.C. sheriff’s officials told LAist in a statement they do this because “it is important in keeping our community safe.”

    After a steep lull, Orange County appears to be ramping up its efforts to turn detainees over to federal immigration authorities.

    Last year, 221 detainees were arrested by Immigration and Customs Enforcement agents after the O.C. Sheriff’s Department informed the agency of their release. That was up from just 17 in 2022. While the 2023 number is still far below from the 717 ICE custody transfers in 2018, it marks a sharp upswing after a years-long decline.

    Immigration advocates say the practice disproportionately targets Orange County’s Mexican and Vietnamese communities.

    Mai Nguyen Do, research and policy manager at the Harbor Institute for Immigrant & Economic Justice, said the uptick shows that targeting these communities were not exclusive to the Trump administration and that the Southeast Asian deportation crisis is far from over.

    “Local law enforcement’s continued collaboration with federal immigration enforcement can really have a dampening effect on immigrants and refugee communities' trust in government,” Do said. “Oftentimes (it) will deter people from getting the help that they need in a lot of different situations, whether it's health care or going to the police to try and report something that might have happened to them.”

    Local law enforcement agencies in California can choose whether to notify ICE when an undocumented person with a federal misdemeanor conviction is about to be released from custody, allowing agents to pick them up for possible deportation. So even if ICE requests that an inmate be transferred, known as a detainer, local agencies don’t have to comply.

    Under the California Values Act (SB 54), signed into law in October 2017, local law enforcement can choose to notify ICE of when a person with an ICE detainer completes time in custody, if the person has a federal conviction on a higher level misdemeanor.

    The Los Angeles County Sheriff’s Department does not comply with ICE detainers, nor does the LAPD. But Orange County has been notifying ICE every year since SB 54 went into effect in 2018. The O.C. sheriff’s officials told LAist in a statement they do this because “it is important in keeping our community safe.”

    In 2020, O.C. Sheriff Don Barnes criticized SB 54.

    “The law has resulted in new crimes because my deputies were unable to communicate with their federal partners about individuals who committed serious offenses and present a threat to our community if released,” he said. “The two-year social science experiment with sanctuary laws must end. Rather than protect our immigrant community, the law has enabled offenders to be released, often times back into the immigrant communities they prey upon, and create new victims.”

    In 2020, a UC Irvine study found that the passing of SB 54 did not lead to an increase in crime — it had a “null effect,” researchers said.

    Know your rights: the Values Act

    Police or sheriff’s deputies cannot ask about your immigration status and your status is not a reason for you to be arrested. 

    They cannot also share information such as your address with ICE unless it is publicly available. 

    The act limits local law enforcement's ability to interact with federal immigration agents, for example ICE agents cannot act as translators.  

    Local law enforcement agencies can't transfer people from custody to immigration custody except if that person has a felony conviction or a higher level misdemeanor.

    Law enforcement agencies that do comply with ICE detainers are required by the state to divulge how many notifications are sent and allow for public comment. According to the latest numbers for 2023 that were discussed at Tuesday’s O.C. Board of Supervisors meeting, ICE placed detainers on 547 people in Orange County Jail. The sheriff’s department notified ICE of the pending release of 302 of those people. Roughly 70%, or 221 people, were ultimately taken into ICE custody.

    Since 2018, the number of people taken into ICE custody after notification from the Orange County Sheriff’s Department had been steadily declining, dropping from 717 in 2018 to 225 in 2020 to 17 in 2022.

    Immigration attorney Katrina Bleckley breaks down the Truth Act:

    The Truth Act requires local law enforcement to provide people they have in criminal custody a Know Your Rights presentation before that person speaks to immigration officials.

    Law enforcement also has to obtain signed written consent from the person in custody. The written document should explain that the interview is a voluntary interview with ICE, that the person can decline to participate in that interview. The written form should be translated into various languages.

    “This fluctuation is wholly dependent on external factors, including whether or not ICE chooses to pick up an eligible inmate,” Barnes told supervisors on Tuesday.

    In the case of the remaining 81 people, ICE chose to take no action, according to the sheriff’s department. There were 245 people released from the jail system last year who had ICE detainers, but the sheriff’s department did not notify ICE.

    In a statement to LAist, ICE spokesperson Richard Beam said several factors play into law enforcement notification, including “how ‘sanctuary’ policies might influence that cooperation.” Beam added that “there can also be trends in criminality non-citizens engage in, agency priorities, or resources that could impact the number of interactions from year to year.”

    That could include how crowded ICE detention facilities are and how many new detainees they can accommodate.

    Who is affected?

    Immigrant advocates in Orange County say communities of color are being disproportionately affected by the ICE transfers.

    According to an analysis by the Harbor Institute for Immigrant & Economic Justice, 43% of people transferred to ICE custody in 2023 were born in Mexico, while 40% were born in Vietnam.

    With local law enforcement and federal law enforcement organizations' collaboration, Nguyen Do said, “our concerns about the safety and security of immigrants and refugee communities and about our ability to trust in government continue to be sort of at risk.”

  • What we know about the companies involved
    Crews wearing safety vests apply dirt on a street with oil on the pavement. A small plaza and bust stop are behind them.
    Crews clean the scene along Cesar E. Chavez and Eastern avenues, where gallons of crude oil spilled onto the street.

    Topline:

    A week after an underground pipeline near East Cesar E. Chavez and North Eastern avenues was punctured, questions remain about who was responsible.

    The backstory: Officials said early reports indicated a boring crew conducting directional drilling for a fiber optic line struck the 16-inch petroleum pipeline, which sent an estimated 2,400 gallons of crude oil onto nearby streets and into storm drains and the Los Angeles River. Streets in the area reopened Thursday after days of closures that disrupted nearby residents, businesses and schools, though more soil remediation remains ahead. Spill report updates from the California Office of Emergency Services indicate that the reported cause of the spill was a “human error.”

    How to file a claim: Claims of damage believed to be caused by the spill can be submitted to PPS by calling (877) 817-5465. Callers will be prompted to leave their name and contact information in a voicemail for a representative to return the call.

    Read on... for more on the companies involved.

    The story first appeared on LA Local.

    A week after an underground pipeline near East Cesar E. Chavez and North Eastern avenues was punctured, questions remain about who was responsible.

    Officials said early reports indicated a boring crew conducting directional drilling for a fiber optic line struck the 16-inch petroleum pipeline, which sent an estimated 2,400 gallons of crude oil onto nearby streets and into storm drains and the Los Angeles River. Streets in the area reopened Thursday after days of closures that disrupted nearby residents, businesses and schools, though more soil remediation remains ahead.

    Spill report updates from the California Office of Emergency Services indicate that the reported cause of the spill was a “human error.”

    Here’s what we know about the companies involved:

    Who operated the pipeline?

    The pipeline is operated by Pacific Pipeline System, which since 2006 has been owned by Plains All American Pipeline.

    Who was drilling?

    In the hours after the spill, Boyle Heights Beat reporters witnessed a truck labeled Camarillo Drilling Inc. A Camarillo Drilling representative told the Beat they were seeking counsel and could not confirm if they were working at the site.

    A February 2026 report from the state Department of Water Resources notes that Camarillo Drilling Company, in April 2020, punctured the Santa Ana Pipeline in Riverside “while performing directional and horizontal boring during installation of an underground communications cable.”

    The Department of Water Resources (DWR) filed a complaint against Camarillo Drilling in Riverside County Superior Court in April 2022, seeking damages of about $1.2 million to cover pipeline repair expenses and DWR staffing costs, according to the report. 

    Why were they drilling?

    NBC4 reported that HP Communications was behind the drilling of the fiber optic line. A representative with HP Communications told the Beat they could not comment or confirm that they were working at the site. 

    HP Communications is one of the companies awarded a contract for the Broadband for All plan, a $6 billion state and federal investment to close the digital divide. 

    The plan involves building a network of high-capacity fiber lines that carry large amounts of data at high speeds over long distances, according to LAist. About 10,000 miles of fiber optic cable is being installed throughout California, including more than 500 miles in Los Angeles County. The state owns and manages the system.

    Another company that was awarded a contract for the plan is Arcadian Infracom, which in 2023, held a groundbreaking event in Boyle Heights for the California portion of its L.A. to Phoenix fiber route, LAist reported in 2024.

    The project will help serve residents in East L.A. and extend to communities in Barstow and Needles (The route totals 306 miles, but only 40 are within L.A. County limits).

    What remains unknown?

    It’s not clear if the drilling that led to the pipeline rupture is linked to the Broadband for All effort. Arcadian Infracom has not returned a request for comment regarding any potential involvement with the pipeline puncture. 

    The California Department of Technology did not respond to Boyle Heights Beat’s questions in time for publication.

    Pacific Pipeline System (PPS) has also not responded to questions regarding the third-party companies involved. 

    A state investigation into how the pipe was struck remains ongoing. Supervisor Hilda Solis on Thursday said she’d work with the Board of Supervisors to ensure “every responsible party is held accountable and advancing stronger protections for impacted residents, communities, and small businesses.”

    How to file a claim

    Claims of damage believed to be caused by the spill can be submitted to PPS by calling (877) 817-5465. Callers will be prompted to leave their name and contact information in a voicemail for a representative to return the call.

    According to the pipeline operator, some examples of claims that may be considered include: 

    • Property damage
    • Business interruption or loss of access
    • Cleanup or remediation expenses
    • Equipment, vehicle or inventory damage
    • Other documented costs directly related to the incident

    PPS will request contact information and a description of the claimed damages. The timeline for any potential compensation depends on the urgency of the claim, according to the spokesperson.

    How to report air quality concerns

    To report excessive odors, smoke, dust and other air contaminants, East Yard Communities for Environmental Justice advises residents to contact the South Coast Air Quality Management District (AQMD) by calling (800) CUT SMOG or (800) 288-7664. 

    Residents can also access South Coast AQMD’s online complaint system by clicking here. 

    To report health concerns related to odors, residents can also contact the L.A. County Department of Public Health by calling (626) 430-9821 or by emailing DPH-OEJCH@ph.lacounty.gov.

  • Sponsored message
  • Tips on navigating L.A. during the matches
    A large screen inside a stadium reads "26 FIFA Los Angeles."
    The FIFA World Cup 2026 Los Angeles logo is displayed during a media event for the upcoming FIFA World Cup at SoFi Stadium in Inglewood, Tuesday, May 12, 2026.

    Topline:

    LAist prepared the following guide to help folks get to and from the stadium, L.A. city watch parties and tips on using bikes and scooters to get around the region.

    The TL;DR: L.A. Metro is providing direct shuttle service from several locations in L.A. and Orange Counties to SoFi Stadium, where countries from around the world will face off in the eight local FIFA World Cup 2026 matches.

    Watch parties: There will be free watch parties in the city of L.A. Some of the locations are directly accessible via Metro rail.

    Read on ... for specifics and tips on using scooter and bike shares.

    You might have braved the process to get a seat at SoFi Stadium for one of the eight FIFA World Cup 2026 matches in L.A., or maybe you’re gearing up to head to a community watch party.

    Either way, you can maximize the celebration, avoid traffic and save your wallet by taking transit.

    LAist prepared the following guide to help folks get to and from the stadium, L.A. city watch parties and tips on using bikes and scooters to get around the region.

    Getting to the stadium

    L.A. Metro is the countywide transportation agency and is the official public transit provider for the World Cup matches in the city. It’s partnering with more than 10 regional transportation and charter providers to get people to and from the stadium.

    Where is the stadium: All eight of the matches will be at SoFi Stadium, or L.A. Stadium, as it will be called during the World Cup. The address is 1001 S. Stadium Dr., Inglewood, CA 90301.

    How do you get there on Metro: Metro is offering direct shuttle service to the stadium from several locations in L.A. and Orange counties:

    • Hawthorne/Lennox Station
    • Crenshaw Station
    • LAX/Metro Transit Center
    • Near LAX hotels
    • El Camino College
    • Harbor Gateway Transit Center
    • Culver City Transit Center
    • Torrance Transit Center
    • Union Station
    • Downtown Long Beach
    • Downtown Santa Monica
    • North Hollywood Station
    • Pierce College Station
    • ARTIC Anaheim Station 
    • Newport Transportation Center
    A map showing routes for Metro's shuttles to SoFi Stadium during the World Cup. The routes to the stadium are shown in purple.
    You can catch a stadium-bound shuttle at locations throughout L.A. and Orange Counties.
    (
    L.A. Metro
    )

    When: Shuttles to the stadium begin service at least three hours before kick-off depending on which location you’re leaving from, and they’ll run up to 90 minutes after the matches end.

    How often: The shuttles will generally run every 10 minutes. For the Pierce College Station and Newport Transportation Center, the shuttles will run every 30 minutes.

    How to pay: You can tap the fare machines directly with your credit or debit card. Or you can go old-school and use a physical or digital TAP card. There are several ways to get a TAP card, including using your smartphone or picking one up at a Metro station. Here is a page with more details and instructions.

    How much: The same as usual: $1.75 one-way.

    Ok, but how do I get to the shuttle locations?: There are a few different options.

    The shuttle pick-up and drop-off locations are well-serviced by existing transit. You can use the Transit or L.A. Metro mobile apps to help with trip planning.

    And yes, you can drive, too. For most of the shuttle locations, you can reserve parking via SpotHero on Metro’s official World Cup page. You can also use ride-share or taxi services.

    The only pick-up and drop-off location that doesn’t have any kind of vehicle access, including rideshare, is the LAX Metro Transit Center. But that station is accessible by five different Metro bus lines and two rail lines.

    Bonus: If you’re looking for a souvenir to commemorate your time on transit during the World Cup in L.A., make sure to pick up a special TAP card. You can see the designs and where to find each one here.

    How to get to the watch parties

    There are going to be more than 100 free watch parties in the city of L.A. at different park locations. It’s part of an initiative called Kick it in the Park. You can find out more about the watch parties here.

    Some of the locations are accessible on Metro rail.

    • MacArthur Park. You can take the B or D line to the Westlake/MacArthur Park Station.
    • Seoul International Park. The D line stops at the Wilshire/Normandie Station, which is about a half mile away from the park. 
    • Sycamore Grove. The A line stops at the Southwest Museum Station, which is less than half a mile from Sycamore Grove. 
    • Stoner Recreation Center. The E Line stops at the Expo/Bundy Station, which is about half a mile away from Stoner Recreation Center.
    • Cheviot Hills Recreation Center. The E Line Palms Station is just less than a mile away. 

    Check out the city’s interactive website to learn which Metro, L.A. Dash or other regional transit can take you to the Kick it in the Park events.

    Other cities in the county are also hosting watch parties, including Santa Monica, West Hollywood and Culver City.

    Micro-mobility solutions

    Taking a bike share or scooter could be helpful to get to and from transit stations or to go a short distance that isn’t well-served by transit. There are a few different options here:

    • Metro Bike Share. Metro operates a fleet of regular and electric bikes that you can find at docking stations throughout L.A. Use the L.A. Metro app to find docking stations near you that have available bikes or to find stations where you can return the bike when you’re done using it. There are different prices depending on how long you anticipate needing a bike, and you can pay with your TAP card. 
    • Lime. The private scooter and bike-share company recently expanded into the Valley and now offers a total of 15,000 vehicles in the city of L.A. Its vehicles are also accessible in West Hollywood and Long Beach. You can use the Lime or Uber apps to book the vehicles.

      The company is launching a “fan pass” this summer that includes 90 minutes of riding over the course of five days for about $13. You can purchase the fan pass more than once. It’ll be available between June 5th through July 12th. If you don't have access to the internet on your phone but still want to use a Lime vehicle, you can text "Unlock" to 415-463-3473. You will receive a text back with instructions on how to proceed from there.

  • Fire survivors share their photos
    A collage of two photos where the photo on the left shows a child inside an ADU smiling through an unfinished window, and the photo on the right shows empty lots with some construction spread out and the ocean in the distance on an overcast day.
    LAist asked “What does rebuilding mean to you?” and fire survivors have been sharing their stories and photos capturing moments of their lives.

    Topline:

    In February, LAist asked a question: What does rebuilding mean to you? We asked people affected by the L.A. fires to share their stories with us and send a photo that captures that moment of their life.

    Why it matters: Rebuilding can mean something different for everyone.

    How to share your story: LAist is still hearing stories and receiving photos from fire survivors on what rebuilding means to them. We want to hear from homeowners, current or former renters, business owners and more. Share your story here.

    Read on ... to see the photos and hear the stories we’ve collected so far.

    What does rebuilding after the 2025 L.A. fires mean to you? That's the question LAist asked you in February.

    Fire survivors may feel the world has moved on, but we know that you are in the process of pouring foundations, moving to a new temporary home, settling into a new community and perhaps waiting for a chance to return to the areas that burned in Altadena, Pasadena, the Palisades and Malibu.

    So we wanted to hear your stories — and also see photos that capture this moment of your lives. With the fires a year and a half behind us, here are a couple of your stories.

    A new start in Altadena

    For Missi Figueroa, rebuilding has meant being drawn back to Altadena.

    “I felt this weird connection after the fire to this place, like it felt like a grave of my old life, and I just wanted to be here,” Figueroa said. “We looked and thought about moving elsewhere. We just wanted to come back here.”

    Her husband, Frank Figueroa, felt that rebuilding is also a part of healing.

    “I can’t wait to see everyone else here move back and how tight the community will be,” he said. “I think it will be much stronger.”

    In February, the Figueroas were nearing completion of their new home. They shared a photo of one of their children smiling through the window of the then-unfinished ADU.

    They passed the final inspection May 8 and got approval to move back to Altadena, which they have called home for over 10 years. Theirs was the 12th fully rebuilt home in Altadena, and they have since returned to the neighborhood.

    The home was to their specifications, including adding lots of tiles and reusing bricks from their former home in the planter in the front.

    A man and a woman pose for a photo embracing each other standing in front of a two-story home with a brick exterior by the front door.
    Missi and Frank Figueroa embrace in front of their new home.
    (
    David Rodriguez
    /
    LAist
    )

    Jose Hernandez, their contractor with Structural Prime Builder, was determined to get the Figueroa family moved in in six to seven months.

    “I was blessed that they basically trust us to build their home,” said Hernandez, who runs the family-owned business.

    The Figueroas said one thing people should know about rebuilding is the importance of having a contractor you can lean on. They found that in Hernandez.

    “I think it’s really important to find someone you can work with, a contractor who you can trust and talk to,” Missi Figueroa said.

    Four people sitting and standing next to a blue bench pose for a photo with a two-story, green home in the background.
    Frank and Missi Figueroa sit on a blue bench with their contractors, Danna and Jose Hernandez from Structural Prime Builder, outside their newly constructed home in Altadena.
    (
    David Rodriguez
    /
    LAist
    )

    Share your story

    LAist is still hearing stories and receiving photos from fire survivors on what rebuilding means to them. We want to hear from homeowners, current or former renters, business owners and more.

    So far, we’ve heard from survivors living in temporary homes, living in RVs on their lots, creating art and starting to rebuild a new home while wondering what comes next.

    Share your story in the survey below and we may include your pictures and stories in an upcoming feature. We won’t publish anything you share without your permission.

    Framing a new home in the Palisades

    A man wearing a gray sweater poses for a photo in front of a blue construction vehicle and a home under construction.
    Darrin Hurwitz stands in front of his family’s new home under construction in the Pacific Palisades.
    (
    David Rodriguez
    /
    LAist
    )

    Darrin Hurwitz and his family moved to Pacific Palisades from Washington, D.C., in 2022. A big reason they chose their neighborhood was to have a city experience and be close to nature.

    Their home was destroyed in the Palisades Fire.

    The framing of their new home is almost complete. They are the first house on their street to start rebuilding.

    For Hurwitz, rebuilding has felt like “a second job." There was the stress of many decisions — as well as feeling like part of something larger.

    “Everyone is dealing with these issues in a different way,” he said. “But ultimately, we are excited to be part of the rebuilding process and thrilled to come back to the Palisades in about a year.”

    Since he’s been in the neighborhood to see the start of construction, Hurwitz said he has found it invigorating to hike the trails. He shared a photo with LAist of the view from a hilltop, where he can watch his neighborhood being reborn.

    The framing of a home under construction is seen on a job site.
    The Hurwitz home is under construction in the Pacific Palisades.
    (
    Darrin Hurwitz
    )

    Hurwitz and his family are living in Santa Monica while their new home is built. He is optimistic about the progress he and his family have made.

    “It takes time for people to figure out what to do, to figure out their financial situation, to decide whether to return to an area that has been ravaged by a natural disaster,” Hurwitz said. “I am optimistic where things are headed. The Palisades will be back in maybe three years or five years or seven years, but it will come back.”

  • Pop-up serves restaurant-quality Japanese cooking
    Two light skinned hands with dark tattoos turn skewers on a burning charcoal grill, with sizzling meat and smoke rising
    Three Pigs is known for its yakitori.

    Topline:

    Unbound by the confines of a brick-and-mortar restaurant, Three Pigs specializes not just in yakitori, but a chef-driven, seasonal take on Japanese cooking.

    Why track down Three Pigs: Proof that a pop-up can be something more than just a roving restaurant—it can be a conduit for creativity and community.

    What to eat: Charred chicken thigh skewers, tender braised pork belly bowls, and an ever-changing list of market-driven specials.

    The soft hiss of fat dripping onto white-hot binchotan. The alchemical smell of both sweet tare sauce and charred meat. If you closed your eyes, you could easily imagine yourself parked at the counter of any number of South Bay yakitori joints.

    But this is Three Pigs, a Long Beach-based pop-up and catering operation, that roves around the region, one week perhaps at a street fair, another in the parking lot of a donut shop.

    It’s the work of partners Allison and Vasili Tavernakis. In just under two years, they’ve built a community of dedicated diners from Orange County to Los Angeles, drawn to their personal market-inspired take on traditional Japanese cuisine.

    A light skinned man wearing a baseball hat, dark glasses and a chef's apron, has his arm around a smiling Asian woman also wearing a baseball cap and a chefs apron. They are standing inside a pop up tent surrounded by kitchen equipment.
    Three Pigs owners, Vasili (left) and Allison Tavernakis.
    (
    Courtesy Three Pigs
    )

    Yakitori is what first launched Three Pigs, so. So there are always skewers on the menu, like a juicy beef kushiyaki skewer dabbed with wasabi.

    But there’s also always something special and even ephemeral to be had. Maybe it will be hearty kakuni don, a bowl of rice topped with meltingly tender soy-braised pork belly, a jammy soft boiled egg, and daikon and bok choy sprouts. Or perhaps you’ll find a hyper-seasonal dish like nowhere else: yuzu-scented whipped tofu, charred broccolini, sake-cherry agrodolce, and sprouted watercress.

    Three Pigs is restaurant-quality cooking unbound from the financial and creative trappings of a brick-and-mortar space.

    “The challenge is what keeps me excited,” Vasili said. “I want our pop-ups to feel like if you changed our bamboo plates, you’d feel like you were at a restaurant.”

    A white plate holds a beautifully laid out dish, with crispy seaweed and lobster tail on a cream colored sauce, surrounded by a yellow swirl.
    A restaurant-quality dish at Three Pigs.
    (
    Courtesy Three Pigs
    )

    Organic growth

    Allison and Vasili are both hospitality veterans. The pair met while working at a restaurant in Torrance: Allison as a manager and social media director in the front of the house, Vasili as a chef in the back of the house. After their shifts, there were few options for late-night bites. Inevitably, Vasili said, they’d find themselves at Japanese izakayas, where they and their coworkers could build camaraderie over skewers and small plates.

    It was during those post-work meals that Vasili became enamored with yakitori. But it wasn’t until the pandemic lockdowns that Vasili ever attempted to cook it himself. It was a slow process, learning the techniques and honing the recipes that called back to those late-night meals that he sorely missed. For Allison, who is Japanese-American, the dishes spoke to her own flavor memories and family traditions.

    Eventually, they became confident enough to invite friends over for dinners to try out new dishes.

    Still, the idea of a pop-up seemed far off. It wasn’t until a friend who owns a store in downtown Long Beach offered a pop-up opportunity that Three Pigs started serving the public. After that first smashing success, which saw their entire menu sell out, the operation has grown organically ever since, building on community connections and word of mouth to find new avenues to share their food.

    Evolution and ambition

    If you pay enough visits to Three Pigs’ pop-ups, you can watch the pair continually push boundaries.

    “On a recent visit to Japan,” Vasili recounted, “we saw a vendor with a gorgeously long irori-style grill with fish standing on skewers. In Japan, irori is a multifunctional space in the home for both heating and cooking. I hadn’t seen a vendor do that before, so I thought I could try building one.”

    So he did. Then he sourced ayu, small fish prized in Japan for their sweet, delicate flavor. The fish were skewered whole and arranged vertically around lengths of charcoal stacked in the center of the grill. The result was not just an approximation of that inspiration from Japan, but an homage to the craft and care of Japanese cooking. Even attempting such a cooking method is something no other pop-up, let alone a brick-and-mortar restaurant, is likely doing in Southern California.

    Casual pop-ups are only part of the Three Pigs experience. Allison and Vasili also host a dinner series. And it’s at those dinners where Three Pigs’ creativity is truly at play.

    At a Santa Monica nursery a few months ago, Three Pigs paired an ambitious tasting menu dinner with an ikebana class hosted by Tiger Blossom Studio. In between flower arranging lessons, Allison and Vasili served a farmers market-driven menu that saw dishes like a hamachi crudo in a pool of strawberry ponzu, spiny lobster in a caviar and white miso beurre monté, and a hojicha panna cotta with craggy, dehydrated black sesame cake.

    “We try and create an experience, not just food on a plate,” Allison said. “We see this as an entire restaurant experience that happens to be outside in the community. We get to interact with customers in a more intimate way, ask questions, and have a conversation.”

    But that conversation isn’t just one with customers old and new. It’s a dialogue between memory and place, Southern California and its seasons, and tradition and evolution.

    No matter where you find Three Pigs, you can always guarantee there will be something new on the menu.

    Location and hours: Visit Three Pigs on Instagram at @threepigslbc for upcoming pop-ups and events.