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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • Analysis finds LA's urban canopy is in dire health
    A downed tree laying on a suburban street with its roots out.
    A downed tree in Burbank on Tuesday morning during the wind storm.

    Topline:

    Los Angeles’s trees are in increasingly dire health, according to one measure, weakened by climate, poor planning and a city stretched too thin to adequately care for them.

    Tree emergencies: A tree emergency, by the city’s own classification, typically means a tree has fallen or is at imminent risk of doing so. A Crosstown analysis shows that the increase is not isolated to just some parts of the city, but is more or less consistent across all neighborhoods. The number of “tree emergencies” reported to the city’s MyLA311 service has been climbing steadily, reaching 1,844 in December, the highest level recorded since the city began releasing data last April

    Why now: The sudden rise — propelled by recent rains — is an illustration of what arborists have been warning about for some time: Los Angeles is failing to properly care for its urban tree canopy, pushing once healthy trees to the point of failure. They expect conditions to get worse, exacerbated by a lack of regular maintenance and increasing stresses brought on by hotter temperatures and intense storms. The various city agencies in charge of maintaining trees are so underfunded that they “are not able to walk and chew gum at the same time,” says Aaron Thomas, the urban forestry director at North East Trees, an environmental advocacy organization. The lack of adequate care only accelerates that decline.

    Los Angeles’s trees are in increasingly dire health, according to one measure, weakened by climate, poor planning and a city stretched too thin to adequately care for them.

    The number of “tree emergencies” reported to the city’s MyLA311 service has been climbing steadily, reaching 1,844 in December, the highest level recorded since the city began releasing data last April. A tree emergency, by the city’s own classification, typically means a tree has fallen or is at imminent risk of doing so. A Crosstown analysis shows that the increase is not isolated to just some parts of the city, but is more or less consistent across all neighborhoods.

    The sudden rise — propelled by recent rains — is an illustration of what arborists have been warning about for some time: Los Angeles is failing to properly care for its urban tree canopy, pushing once healthy trees to the point of failure. They expect conditions to get worse, exacerbated by a lack of regular maintenance and increasing stresses brought on by hotter temperatures and intense storms.

    The various city agencies in charge of maintaining trees are so underfunded that they “are not able to walk and chew gum at the same time,” says Aaron Thomas, the urban forestry director at North East Trees, an environmental advocacy organization. The lack of adequate care only accelerates that decline. “It’s a vicious cycle, young trees that need structural pruning that will prevent issues in the future don’t get care. Trees that are just not healthy because they are not being cared for become hazardous.”

    A man wearing a neon work vest stands in inside the basket of a crane positioned towards the top of a tall, dry, leaf-less tree. Beneath the crane is a large pile of tree branches.
    Workers respond to a tree emergency on Venice Blvd.
    (
    Gabriel Kahn
    /
    Crosstown
    )

    Once every 17 years

    There are approximately 660,000 trees that make up the city of Los Angeles’s urban tree canopy, one of the largest in the nation. Keeping them healthy requires attention at every stage. A young tree that does not receive early pruning grows unevenly and eventually becomes a hazard. Without that investment, the city ends up spending more money later on bigger, more dangerous trees.

    A representative for the city’s Bureau of Street Services, which houses the Urban Forestry Division, said that despite the city’s recent budget woes, staffing has remained more or less consistent, with about 220 workers. That allows the division to operate on a 17-year maintenance cycle.

    That 17-year interval is far longer than what arborists recommend, according to Esther Margulies, a landscape architect and urban planning professor at the University of Southern California. “The more you defer maintenance, the more expensive and difficult it becomes,” she said, “because you’re dealing with bigger trees and more structural problems.”

    Recent patterns of intense rainfall followed by high winds have made conditions worse, and have likely pushed up the number of tree emergency calls. Saturated soil loses its grip, and trees that might have held come down.

    Margulies described the situation as an infrastructure problem. Trees provide shade, stormwater absorption, and cooling in a city that faces more extreme heat every year. “None of that happens for free,” she said, “just like other infrastructure in our city.”

    New trees needed for a new climate

    Bryan Vejar is the associate director of community forestry at TreePeople, an organization that helps maintain the local tree canopy, among other things. The city’s Urban Forestry Division is “so undercapacity, their priorities are responding to tree mortality and hazards, not planting.”

    Part of what is occurring now is the consequence of bad decisions made years earlier. Trees planted across the city were chosen for their looks rather than their ability to survive in Los Angeles’s evolving climate. Only 10-15% of them are native to Southern California, says Vejar. Species selected for fall color or flowering, popular in wetter climates, were never suited for prolonged drought or rising heat. Many are now approaching the end of their lifespans. Vejar noted that Los Angeles street trees survive on average between eight and 25 years, even though many of the species planted are capable of living hundreds of years under the right conditions.

    Simply planting more trees won’t fix the problem. “Once you plant it, as a minimum, you have to care, water for three years,” says Vejar. “We can’t plant ourselves out of tree mortality.”

    Trees need to be capable of surviving in compacted soil that is often poor quality. “These different pressures winnow down the inherent tree palette. Climate change makes it harder,” says Vejar. He added that in some cases, even native tree species are no longer adequate. “Sometimes, we have to plant for a climate that is hotter, drier. We can’t plant native trees, but ones that can survive in that new climate.”

    How we did it: We analyzed 10 months of MyLA311 data for tree-related services requests and also broke down the data by neighborhood.

  • Tips on navigating L.A. during the matches
    A large screen inside a stadium reads "26 FIFA Los Angeles."
    The FIFA World Cup 2026 Los Angeles logo is displayed during a media event for the upcoming FIFA World Cup at SoFi Stadium in Inglewood, Tuesday, May 12, 2026.

    Topline:

    LAist prepared the following guide to help folks get to and from the stadium, L.A. city watch parties and tips on using bikes and scooters to get around the region.

    The TL;DR: L.A. Metro is providing direct shuttle service from several locations in L.A. and Orange Counties to SoFi Stadium, where countries from around the world will face off in the eight local FIFA World Cup 2026 matches.

    Watch parties: There will be free watch parties in the city of L.A. Some of the locations are directly accessible via Metro rail.

    Read on ... for specifics and tips on using scooter and bike shares.

    You might have braved the process to get a seat at SoFi Stadium for one of the eight FIFA World Cup 2026 matches in L.A., or maybe you’re gearing up to head to a community watch party.

    Either way, you can maximize the celebration, avoid traffic and save your wallet by taking transit.

    LAist prepared the following guide to help folks get to and from the stadium, L.A. city watch parties and tips on using bikes and scooters to get around the region.

    Getting to the stadium

    L.A. Metro is the countywide transportation agency and is the official public transit provider for the World Cup matches in the city. It’s partnering with more than 10 regional transportation and charter providers to get people to and from the stadium.

    Where is the stadium: All eight of the matches will be at SoFi Stadium, or L.A. Stadium, as it will be called during the World Cup. The address is 1001 S. Stadium Dr., Inglewood, CA 90301.

    How do you get there on Metro: Metro is offering direct shuttle service to the stadium from several locations in L.A. and Orange counties:

    • Hawthorne/Lennox Station
    • Crenshaw Station
    • LAX/Metro Transit Center
    • Near LAX hotels
    • El Camino College
    • Harbor Gateway Transit Center
    • Culver City Transit Center
    • Torrance Transit Center
    • Union Station
    • Downtown Long Beach
    • Downtown Santa Monica
    • North Hollywood Station
    • Pierce College Station
    • ARTIC Anaheim Station 
    • Newport Transportation Center
    A map showing routes for Metro's shuttles to SoFi Stadium during the World Cup. The routes to the stadium are shown in purple.
    You can catch a stadium-bound shuttle at locations throughout L.A. and Orange Counties.
    (
    L.A. Metro
    )

    When: Shuttles to the stadium begin service at least three hours before kick-off depending on which location you’re leaving from, and they’ll run up to 90 minutes after the matches end.

    How often: The shuttles will generally run every 10 minutes. For the Pierce College Station and Newport Transportation Center, the shuttles will run every 30 minutes.

    How to pay: You can tap the fare machines directly with your credit or debit card. Or you can go old-school and use a physical or digital TAP card. There are several ways to get a TAP card, including using your smartphone or picking one up at a Metro station. Here is a page with more details and instructions.

    How much: The same as usual: $1.75 one-way.

    Ok, but how do I get to the shuttle locations?: There are a few different options.

    The shuttle pick-up and drop-off locations are well-serviced by existing transit. You can use the Transit or L.A. Metro mobile apps to help with trip planning.

    And yes, you can drive, too. For most of the shuttle locations, you can reserve parking via SpotHero on Metro’s official World Cup page. You can also use ride-share or taxi services.

    The only pick-up and drop-off location that doesn’t have any kind of vehicle access, including rideshare, is the LAX Metro Transit Center. But that station is accessible by five different Metro bus lines and two rail lines.

    Bonus: If you’re looking for a souvenir to commemorate your time on transit during the World Cup in L.A., make sure to pick up a special TAP card. You can see the designs and where to find each one here.

    How to get to the watch parties

    There are going to be more than 100 free watch parties in the city of L.A. at different park locations. It’s part of an initiative called Kick it in the Park. You can find out more about the watch parties here.

    Some of the locations are accessible on Metro rail.

    • MacArthur Park. You can take the B or D line to the Westlake/MacArthur Park Station.
    • Seoul International Park. The D line stops at the Wilshire/Normandie Station, which is about a half mile away from the park. 
    • Sycamore Grove. The A line stops at the Southwest Museum Station, which is less than half a mile from Sycamore Grove. 
    • Stoner Recreation Center. The E Line stops at the Expo/Bundy Station, which is about half a mile away from Stoner Recreation Center.
    • Cheviot Hills Recreation Center. The E Line Palms Station is just less than a mile away. 

    Check out the city’s interactive website to learn which Metro, L.A. Dash or other regional transit can take you to the Kick it in the Park events.

    Other cities in the county are also hosting watch parties, including Santa Monica, West Hollywood and Culver City.

    Micro-mobility solutions

    Taking a bike share or scooter could be helpful to get to and from transit stations or to go a short distance that isn’t well-served by transit. There are a few different options here:

    • Metro Bike Share. Metro operates a fleet of regular and electric bikes that you can find at docking stations throughout L.A. Use the L.A. Metro app to find docking stations near you that have available bikes or to find stations where you can return the bike when you’re done using it. There are different prices depending on how long you anticipate needing a bike, and you can pay with your TAP card. 
    • Lime. The private scooter and bike-share company recently expanded into the Valley and now offers a total of 15,000 vehicles in the city of L.A. Its vehicles are also accessible in West Hollywood and Long Beach. You can use the Lime or Uber apps to book the vehicles.

      The company is launching a “fan pass” this summer that includes 90 minutes of riding over the course of five days for about $13. You can purchase the fan pass more than once. It’ll be available between June 5th through July 12th. If you don't have access to the internet on your phone but still want to use a Lime vehicle, you can text "Unlock" to 415-463-3473. You will receive a text back with instructions on how to proceed from there.

  • Sponsored message
  • Orgs say services at risk as state considers shift
    A senior center room filled with at least 7 dining tables with 8 seats each. Older adults are sitting across the tables, some with lunch trays and paper cups in front of them. At least two men can be seen walking the room in aprons and hairnets, handing out food to the older adults.
    The Jewish Family Service L.A. senior center in the Fairfax Village neighborhood provides hot lunches and activities for older adults.

    Topline:

    Group lunches, home-delivered meals and caregiver support programs are among the services that L.A.-area older adult organizations are warning could be cut under a proposed funding shift.

    Why now: Nearly two dozen organizations, which make up the Los Angeles Coalition for Aging, say L.A. is facing "substantial" funding losses while resources are redistributed to smaller, more rural regions.

    Why it matters: The proposed funding shift could lead to more than 400,000 fewer meals each year to the county’s older adults who rely on the programs — not including numbers from the city of L.A. That’s equivalent to roughly 1,500 fewer meals every day.

    The backstory: Among the unhoused, older adults are estimated to be the fastest-growing population in California.

    What's next: In a nutshell, coalition members said they’re asking state leaders to slow down and consider the consequences.

    Go deeper: How an aging California is turning to senior centers for romance, community and health

    Group lunches, home-delivered meals and caregiver support programs are among the services that L.A.-area older adult organizations are warning could be cut under a proposed funding shift.

    Nearly two dozen organizations, which make up the Los Angeles Coalition for Aging, say L.A. is facing "substantial" funding losses while resources are redistributed to smaller, more rural regions.

    More than 2 million older adults — generally people aged 60 and older — live in L.A. County, a vast majority of whom are aged 65 and older, according to the state Department of Aging. According to the coalition, the population exceeds any other county in California, with L.A. older adults increasingly experiencing homelessness and struggling to meet their basic needs.

    The proposed funding shift could lead to more than 400,000 fewer meals each year to the county’s older adults who rely on the programs — not including numbers from the city of L.A. That’s equivalent to roughly 1,500 fewer meals every day.

    Catherine Schneider, with Jewish Family Service L.A., which is part of the coalition, told LAist the funding shift moves money away from the oldest, most vulnerable adults in major urban areas.

    “Many of [our seniors] have to choose between, do I pay my rent? Do I pay my medical bills? Or do I pay for food? That's the current reality, that's our starting place,” Schneider said. “So when we make cuts to the meals that they are receiving, then you're going to see a further spike in homelessness.”

    Two men in masks and hairnets are standing on either side of a counter, pouring water into paper cups on orange trays. A man and a woman can be seen behind them in similar protective gear, chatting by the trays.
    The lunch for the day was delivered on trays along with cups of water to each older adult.
    (
    Makenna Cramer
    /
    LAist
    )

    In the city of L.A., the number of people aged 65 and older experiencing homelessness jumped more than 17% in a year, and more than 36% in two years, according to annual point-in-time counts.

    How would it work?

    The proposal would update the intrastate funding formula, which supports local services and targets areas with the greatest needs, according to officials.

    It’s been about 30 years since the formula was updated, all while the state’s older adult population has dramatically changed.

    “So it was high time that we did this review and we ensure that the dollars are reaching the communities that need them most,” Nicole Shimosaka, chief deputy director with the state Department of Aging, said during a webinar Wednesday.

    The proposed funding formula would collectively cut about $5.5 million from L.A. city and county. That’s a 23% drop — 11% for the county and 12% for the city.

    Several counties with more rural populations, on the other hand, would see an increase:

    • Nevada County would be an 89% increase, or about $775,000 more
    • Amador County would see a 72% jump, or about $360,000 more
    • Plumas County would get 37% more, or about $160,000
    • Mariposa County would see a 34% increase, or $126,000 more

    What do state officials say about the proposal?

    Newsom’s office referred LAist’s request for comment to the state Department of Finance, which said there were “extensive” conversations with stakeholders ahead of the proposal.

    It also noted that the proposal wouldn’t be fully implemented for a few more years, "allowing time … to adjust and prepare.”

    Susan DeMarois, director of the California Department of Aging, said officials have been asked at the state and federal level to take a “fresh look” at the formula to make sure it reflects the needs of older adults.

    “We know these conversations are important to local communities, which is why stakeholder engagement has remained central throughout this process,” DeMarois said in an email. “At the end of the day, our goal is to support a stronger aging network that can continue helping older Californians stay healthy, connected, and supported in their communities.”

    Names to the numbers

    Dozens of older adults filed into a senior center in L.A.’s Fairfax Village neighborhood on a weekday morning for a free hot meal, access to exercise equipment and to catch up with friends.

    Mariana Jimenez, who lives in West Hollywood and comes to the center everyday to eat, snacked on slices of cantaloupe while staff passed out lunch trays.

    “I want to come in for many years more,” she told LAist. “This is very healthy for me to come every day.”

    A Latina woman wearing a brown sweater over a shirt in a lighter shade of brown. She's sitting at a table, with a lunch tray and two slices of cantaloupe placed on top of the tray. A white paper cup is sitting next to the tray.
    Mariana Jimenez has been coming to the center every day for years. She said she enjoys the hot lunches and dancing activities on Fridays.
    (
    Makenna Cramer
    /
    LAist
    )

    Frank McRae, 82, takes two buses to get to the senior center almost every weekday for meals. McRae doesn’t have a stove or complete kitchen at home, which he said makes the “excellent quality” and “consistent” lunches more important.

    Without the group meal program, McRae said the “galloping cost of food … would really be a hardship.” He knows by heart how much the cost of meat, cheese, soups and other staples have risen recently at almost every grocery store in the area.

    “This center is keeping people alive, it's keeping people thriving,” he said. "It's giving people hope, it's giving them outlets.”

    A Black man wearing a tan baseball cap, blue quarter zip sweater and black pants is sitting in front of a computer with a webpage open to Google. He has an "I voted" blue and red sticker affixed to his chest.
    Frank McRae, 82, used to take three to four buses to get to the center several times a week. He enjoys the meals, gym access and doing research in the computer room.
    (
    Makenna Cramer
    /
    LAist
    )

    How could it affect L.A.?

    The Los Angeles Coalition for Aging, which includes organizations like the Los Angeles LGBT Center and Meals on Wheels West, collectively serves thousands of older adults and caregivers in the county’s diverse communities.

    The Little Tokyo Service Center, another member of the coalition, assists more than 5,000 people so older adults can live independently as long as possible.

    Peter Gee, co-executive director, said there isn’t enough funding for older adult services to begin with, and the proposed shift would be cutting millions from an already limited pool.

    “At the end of the day, it would be more older adults and their caregivers that would be going hungry,” he said. “A lot more people that would be facing isolation, a lot more people that would be experiencing homelessness and housing insecurity.”

    Among the unhoused, older adults are estimated to be the fastest-growing population in California.

    Jewish Family Service L.A. serves about a quarter million meals annually to more than 3,000 people, according to Schneider.

    If the proposed funding shift moves forward, the meals, transportation, in-home care, senior centers and activities that Schneider said is “very much a lifeline for folks” would face significant cuts.

    “There'd be some very painful decisions that we might have to make, and it would impact the lives of our neighbors,” she said.

    What are advocates and older adults asking for?

    Gee said the proposal was a surprise to the coalition. It’s urging the California Department of Aging to pause implementation until there’s been “meaningful engagement” with providers, advocates and affected communities.

    In a nutshell, Gee and Schneider said they’re asking state leaders to slow down and consider the consequences.

    He encouraged older adults to contact state leaders, including Newsom’s office, to speak up about the “simply unacceptable” proposed funding shift.

    How to contact state leaders

    • You can enter your address here to find your State Senate and Assembly representatives.
    • Your representatives will then pop up with direct links to their website.
    • Many officials will have a "contact me" page linked online that allows you to share comments with their office.
    • You can also call directly with the phone numbers listed for their respective offices, typically in Sacramento and in their district.

  • Fire survivors share their photos
    A collage of two photos where the photo on the left shows a child inside an ADU smiling through an unfinished window, and the photo on the right shows empty lots with some construction spread out and the ocean in the distance on an overcast day.
    LAist asked “What does rebuilding mean to you?” and fire survivors have been sharing their stories and photos capturing moments of their lives.

    Topline:

    In February, LAist asked a question: What does rebuilding mean to you? We asked people affected by the L.A. fires to share their stories with us and send a photo that captures that moment of their life.

    Why it matters: Rebuilding can mean something different for everyone.

    How to share your story: LAist is still hearing stories and receiving photos from fire survivors on what rebuilding means to them. We want to hear from homeowners, current or former renters, business owners and more. Share your story here.

    Read on ... to see the photos and hear the stories we’ve collected so far.

    What does rebuilding after the 2025 L.A. fires mean to you? That's the question LAist asked you in February.

    Fire survivors may feel the world has moved on, but we know that you are in the process of pouring foundations, moving to a new temporary home, settling into a new community and perhaps waiting for a chance to return to the areas that burned in Altadena, Pasadena, the Palisades and Malibu.

    So we wanted to hear your stories — and also see photos that capture this moment of your lives. With the fires a year and a half behind us, here are a couple of your stories.

    A new start in Altadena

    For Missi Figueroa, rebuilding has meant being drawn back to Altadena.

    “I felt this weird connection after the fire to this place, like it felt like a grave of my old life, and I just wanted to be here,” Figueroa said. “We looked and thought about moving elsewhere. We just wanted to come back here.”

    Her husband, Frank Figueroa, felt that rebuilding is also a part of healing.

    “I can’t wait to see everyone else here move back and how tight the community will be,” he said. “I think it will be much stronger.”

    In February, the Figueroas were nearing completion of their new home. They shared a photo of one of their children smiling through the window of the then-unfinished ADU.

    They passed the final inspection May 8 and got approval to move back to Altadena, which they have called home for over 10 years. Theirs was the 12th fully rebuilt home in Altadena, and they have since returned to the neighborhood.

    The home was to their specifications, including adding lots of tiles and reusing bricks from their former home in the planter in the front.

    A man and a woman pose for a photo embracing each other standing in front of a two-story home with a brick exterior by the front door.
    Missi and Frank Figueroa embrace in front of their new home.
    (
    David Rodriguez
    /
    LAist
    )

    Jose Hernandez, their contractor with Structural Prime Builder, was determined to get the Figueroa family moved in in six to seven months.

    “I was blessed that they basically trust us to build their home,” said Hernandez, who runs the family-owned business.

    The Figueroas said one thing people should know about rebuilding is the importance of having a contractor you can lean on. They found that in Hernandez.

    “I think it’s really important to find someone you can work with, a contractor who you can trust and talk to,” Missi Figueroa said.

    Four people sitting and standing next to a blue bench pose for a photo with a two-story, green home in the background.
    Frank and Missi Figueroa sit on a blue bench with their contractors, Danna and Jose Hernandez from Structural Prime Builder, outside their newly constructed home in Altadena.
    (
    David Rodriguez
    /
    LAist
    )

    Share your story

    LAist is still hearing stories and receiving photos from fire survivors on what rebuilding means to them. We want to hear from homeowners, current or former renters, business owners and more.

    So far, we’ve heard from survivors living in temporary homes, living in RVs on their lots, creating art and starting to rebuild a new home while wondering what comes next.

    Share your story in the survey below and we may include your pictures and stories in an upcoming feature. We won’t publish anything you share without your permission.

    Framing a new home in the Palisades

    A man wearing a gray sweater poses for a photo in front of a blue construction vehicle and a home under construction.
    Darrin Hurwitz stands in front of his family’s new home under construction in the Pacific Palisades.
    (
    David Rodriguez
    /
    LAist
    )

    Darrin Hurwitz and his family moved to Pacific Palisades from Washington, D.C., in 2022. A big reason they chose their neighborhood was to have a city experience and be close to nature.

    Their home was destroyed in the Palisades Fire.

    The framing of their new home is almost complete. They are the first house on their street to start rebuilding.

    For Hurwitz, rebuilding has felt like “a second job." There was the stress of many decisions — as well as feeling like part of something larger.

    “Everyone is dealing with these issues in a different way,” he said. “But ultimately, we are excited to be part of the rebuilding process and thrilled to come back to the Palisades in about a year.”

    Since he’s been in the neighborhood to see the start of construction, Hurwitz said he has found it invigorating to hike the trails. He shared a photo with LAist of the view from a hilltop, where he can watch his neighborhood being reborn.

    The framing of a home under construction is seen on a job site.
    The Hurwitz home is under construction in the Pacific Palisades.
    (
    Darrin Hurwitz
    )

    Hurwitz and his family are living in Santa Monica while their new home is built. He is optimistic about the progress he and his family have made.

    “It takes time for people to figure out what to do, to figure out their financial situation, to decide whether to return to an area that has been ravaged by a natural disaster,” Hurwitz said. “I am optimistic where things are headed. The Palisades will be back in maybe three years or five years or seven years, but it will come back.”

  • Pop-up serves restaurant-quality Japanese cooking
    Two light skinned hands with dark tattoos turn skewers on a burning charcoal grill, with sizzling meat and smoke rising
    Three Pigs is known for its yakitori.

    Topline:

    Unbound by the confines of a brick-and-mortar restaurant, Three Pigs specializes not just in yakitori, but a chef-driven, seasonal take on Japanese cooking.

    Why track down Three Pigs: Proof that a pop-up can be something more than just a roving restaurant—it can be a conduit for creativity and community.

    What to eat: Charred chicken thigh skewers, tender braised pork belly bowls, and an ever-changing list of market-driven specials.

    The soft hiss of fat dripping onto white-hot binchotan. The alchemical smell of both sweet tare sauce and charred meat. If you closed your eyes, you could easily imagine yourself parked at the counter of any number of South Bay yakitori joints.

    But this is Three Pigs, a Long Beach-based pop-up and catering operation, that roves around the region, one week perhaps at a street fair, another in the parking lot of a donut shop.

    It’s the work of partners Allison and Vasili Tavernakis. In just under two years, they’ve built a community of dedicated diners from Orange County to Los Angeles, drawn to their personal market-inspired take on traditional Japanese cuisine.

    A light skinned man wearing a baseball hat, dark glasses and a chef's apron, has his arm around a smiling Asian woman also wearing a baseball cap and a chefs apron. They are standing inside a pop up tent surrounded by kitchen equipment.
    Three Pigs owners, Vasili (left) and Allison Tavernakis.
    (
    Courtesy Three Pigs
    )

    Yakitori is what first launched Three Pigs, so. So there are always skewers on the menu, like a juicy beef kushiyaki skewer dabbed with wasabi.

    But there’s also always something special and even ephemeral to be had. Maybe it will be hearty kakuni don, a bowl of rice topped with meltingly tender soy-braised pork belly, a jammy soft boiled egg, and daikon and bok choy sprouts. Or perhaps you’ll find a hyper-seasonal dish like nowhere else: yuzu-scented whipped tofu, charred broccolini, sake-cherry agrodolce, and sprouted watercress.

    Three Pigs is restaurant-quality cooking unbound from the financial and creative trappings of a brick-and-mortar space.

    “The challenge is what keeps me excited,” Vasili said. “I want our pop-ups to feel like if you changed our bamboo plates, you’d feel like you were at a restaurant.”

    A white plate holds a beautifully laid out dish, with crispy seaweed and lobster tail on a cream colored sauce, surrounded by a yellow swirl.
    A restaurant-quality dish at Three Pigs.
    (
    Courtesy Three Pigs
    )

    Organic growth

    Allison and Vasili are both hospitality veterans. The pair met while working at a restaurant in Torrance: Allison as a manager and social media director in the front of the house, Vasili as a chef in the back of the house. After their shifts, there were few options for late-night bites. Inevitably, Vasili said, they’d find themselves at Japanese izakayas, where they and their coworkers could build camaraderie over skewers and small plates.

    It was during those post-work meals that Vasili became enamored with yakitori. But it wasn’t until the pandemic lockdowns that Vasili ever attempted to cook it himself. It was a slow process, learning the techniques and honing the recipes that called back to those late-night meals that he sorely missed. For Allison, who is Japanese-American, the dishes spoke to her own flavor memories and family traditions.

    Eventually, they became confident enough to invite friends over for dinners to try out new dishes.

    Still, the idea of a pop-up seemed far off. It wasn’t until a friend who owns a store in downtown Long Beach offered a pop-up opportunity that Three Pigs started serving the public. After that first smashing success, which saw their entire menu sell out, the operation has grown organically ever since, building on community connections and word of mouth to find new avenues to share their food.

    Evolution and ambition

    If you pay enough visits to Three Pigs’ pop-ups, you can watch the pair continually push boundaries.

    “On a recent visit to Japan,” Vasili recounted, “we saw a vendor with a gorgeously long irori-style grill with fish standing on skewers. In Japan, irori is a multifunctional space in the home for both heating and cooking. I hadn’t seen a vendor do that before, so I thought I could try building one.”

    So he did. Then he sourced ayu, small fish prized in Japan for their sweet, delicate flavor. The fish were skewered whole and arranged vertically around lengths of charcoal stacked in the center of the grill. The result was not just an approximation of that inspiration from Japan, but an homage to the craft and care of Japanese cooking. Even attempting such a cooking method is something no other pop-up, let alone a brick-and-mortar restaurant, is likely doing in Southern California.

    Casual pop-ups are only part of the Three Pigs experience. Allison and Vasili also host a dinner series. And it’s at those dinners where Three Pigs’ creativity is truly at play.

    At a Santa Monica nursery a few months ago, Three Pigs paired an ambitious tasting menu dinner with an ikebana class hosted by Tiger Blossom Studio. In between flower arranging lessons, Allison and Vasili served a farmers market-driven menu that saw dishes like a hamachi crudo in a pool of strawberry ponzu, spiny lobster in a caviar and white miso beurre monté, and a hojicha panna cotta with craggy, dehydrated black sesame cake.

    “We try and create an experience, not just food on a plate,” Allison said. “We see this as an entire restaurant experience that happens to be outside in the community. We get to interact with customers in a more intimate way, ask questions, and have a conversation.”

    But that conversation isn’t just one with customers old and new. It’s a dialogue between memory and place, Southern California and its seasons, and tradition and evolution.

    No matter where you find Three Pigs, you can always guarantee there will be something new on the menu.

    Location and hours: Visit Three Pigs on Instagram at @threepigslbc for upcoming pop-ups and events.