With our free press under threat and federal funding for public media gone, your support matters more than ever. Help keep the LAist newsroom strong, become a monthly member or increase your support today .
This is an archival story that predates current editorial management.
This archival content was written, edited, and published prior to LAist's acquisition by its current owner, Southern California Public Radio ("SCPR"). Content, such as language choice and subject matter, in archival articles therefore may not align with SCPR's current editorial standards. To learn more about those standards and why we make this distinction, please click here.
Sgt. Recruiter: More Wining in Los Feliz
()
One of the most recent additions to the panoply of nightspots in Los Feliz is Sgt Recruiter, located on the stretch of Hollywood Boulevard that I think of as Wacko-Adjacent. Split off from Cobras & Matadors (it was the private room on the left when you entered), also under Steven Arroyo’s management, and named in homage to a wine bar in Paris, Sgt Recruiter has room for patrons to sit at 14 comfortable stools lined up along the length of the place.
Wine and beer are the potent potables on offer, and the menu is brief and to the point: Steak Frites, Moules Frites, onion rings, socca cakes (a Provençal chickpea-flour pancake), two or three kinds of oysters on the half-shell, and one or two specials. The white-tiled bar and terrific list of wines, all from California or France, fuel dreams of being in a little bar à vin in Montparnasse. But there are palm trees outside, and my friend Lori and I were two hungry women on our way – or so we thought – to a Friday night opening at Luz de Jesus.
Our bartender, Doug, was friendly and helpful, steering us toward the Gruet Blanc de Blancs (New Mexico bubbly – who knew?) with the knowledge and skill of someone who, he tells us, grew up and worked in restaurants in Napa. A glass—or was it two?—of fizzy stuff and we were ready to order: one Steak Frites, one Moule Frites.
Support for LAist comes from
()
The flavorful steak was truly medium rare, topped with an herb butter (nice but not really needed) and surrounded by skinny fries. The mussels were steamed in wine and shallots and came with a personal-sized soufflé dish of fries. I was very happy, especially after Doug brought on the Adelaida “SLO” Pinot Noir, which led eventually to a “what the hell” order of onion rings instead of dessert.
At some point we switched back to the bubbly and forgot about the gallery opening, having made lots of new friends. Sgt Recruiter is a great place to stop by for a glass or two of wine, or (as we discovered) spend an evening. The simple menu addresses simple needs nicely. The only thing I’d add to it is something green, even a plain green salad. But that's a minor quibble. This is a fun new addition to the Los Feliz nabe.
Sgt Recruiter
4655 Hollywood Boulevard
323-669-3922
Photos from Gypsy D'sphotostream on Flickr
At LAist, we believe in journalism without censorship and the right of a free press to speak truth to those in power. Our hard-hitting watchdog reporting on local government, climate, and the ongoing housing and homelessness crisis is trustworthy, independent and freely accessible to everyone thanks to the support of readers like you.
But the game has changed: Congress voted to eliminate funding for public media across the country. Here at LAist that means a loss of $1.7 million in our budget every year. We want to assure you that despite growing threats to free press and free speech, LAist will remain a voice you know and trust. Speaking frankly, the amount of reader support we receive will help determine how strong of a newsroom we are going forward to cover the important news in our community.
We’re asking you to stand up for independent reporting that will not be silenced. With more individuals like you supporting this public service, we can continue to provide essential coverage for Southern Californians that you can’t find anywhere else. Become a monthly member today to help sustain this mission.
Thank you for your generous support and belief in the value of independent news.
Chip in now to fund your local journalism
(
LAist
)
Trending on LAist
-
The study found recipients spent nearly all the money on basic needs like food and transportation, not drugs or alcohol. -
Kevin Lee's Tokyo Noir has become one of the top spots for craft-inspired cocktails. -
A tort claim obtained by LAist via a public records request alleges the Anaheim procurement department lacks basic contracting procedures and oversight. -
Flauta, taquito, tacos dorados? Whatever they’re called, they’re golden, crispy and delicious. -
If California redistricts, the conservative beach town that banned LGBTQ Pride flags on city property would get a gay, progressive Democrat in Congress. -
Most survivors of January's fires face a massive gap in the money they need to rebuild, and funding to help is moving too slowly or nonexistent.
Best of LAist