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Lucifers: Devilishly Good Pizza

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When it comes to pizza, I don't have the kind geographic allegiance that stipulates anything in particular about crust depth, fold-ability, or sauciness. As a kid in the mid-1980's in Toronto I was introduced by a trend-savvy relative to something called Joel's Gourmet Pizza, which provoked gasps because you could get yuppie toppings like Feta and the whole thing was square. This was a serious game-changer. Hold the phone: It's square, like ohmigod, okay?

Once I came to Cali, I went through the obligatory pizza phases: BBQ Chicken, make your own with that Boboli crust, and write a check and hope it clears at whatever big chain just left a coupon swinging from your apartment door. I've had Chicago pizza, New York pizza, flatbread pizza, white pizza, and so on. Usually when my gut cries out for pizza it's a distress call signaling a need to touch in with comfort food. You're probably familiar with the "Must. Have. Pizza." yen.

Recently I was invited to try the pizza from Lucifers in Los Feliz, which is a fiery hot hot-spot, from toppings to the wicked burn of the spice-levels available. Chef and owner is New Zealander Adam Borich, who sees pizza crust as a sort of blank slate opportunity to create gourmet flavor combinations.