A Unique Culinary Journey: Eat Your Way Through Mexico's 32 States Without Leaving LA

Alex Garcia is the mastermind behind the popular pop-up taqueria Evil Cooks, which he runs with his wife, Elvia. They are known for their playful, innovative approach to Mexican food with a heavy metal edge, and taking big swings. At last year’s Taco Madness celebration, for example, they trotted out a trompo — the vertical rotating spit that al-pastor meat cooks on — for dessert.

Instead of marinated roasted pork, it was ice cream. It was a huge hit.

But for his latest venture, he’s teamed up with some of the most revered Mexican chefs in the United States for a memorable evening on Saturday, June 22: Lucky ticket holders will eat their way across Mexico without ever getting on a plane.

At $200 a person, it's pricey. But it’s also an only-in-L.A. dining experience featuring a 32-course feast that goes far beyond taco combo plates and quesadillas. Why 32 courses? Each course will represent a signature dish "from Mexico’s 32 states." (Technically, it's 31 states and a single federal district, but that doesn't quite roll off the tongue as nicely.)

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The setting? El Barrio Cantina, a contemporary Mexican restaurant in the Retro Row neighborhood in East Long Beach, known for its inventive menu and world-class mezcal selection.

“I wanted to do something mind-blowing, something that would stand out,” Garcia said.

Last year's participants in the so-called Disciples of Corn dinner held at El Barrio Cantina in Long Beach, the name of the dinner a nod to Alex Garcia's love of the staple of so many Mexican dishes.

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Courtesy of Alex Garcia, Evil Cooks

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Attendees can sample unique dishes and drinks rarely found outside Mexico, featuring a superstar lineup of chefs including his wife — Elvia Garcia, a James Beard nominee — along with Anastacia Quiñones Pittman (of the restaurant José, in Dallas, Tx. a James Beard semi-finalist), Crystal Espinoza (Guerrilla Tacos, locations across Los Angeles), Jonathan Perez (Macheen, Boyle Heights), Liz Macias (Sysco, Riverside), Manuel Bañuelos (Fonda Tobala, Long Beach) and Ulises Pineda Alfaro (El Barrio Cantina, Long Beach).

Sensibly, the 32 courses are showcased in an array of "amuse-bouche" dishes — only a couple of bites apiece.

Mexican food may be increasingly popular worldwide, but Garcia wants people to better understand and appreciate its roots, which have been equally influenced by its Indigenous background and different waves of immigration.

Dishes include:

• Guacamayas from Guanajuato, located in the state of León: torta slathered with fresh avocado, stuffed with chicharrones and drizzled with a bracing red salsa and a spritz of lime, made by chef Espinoza.

An illustrated map of the menu featuring 32 different dishes for The Disciples Of The Corn II dinner taking place on June 22 at El Barrio Cantina in Long Beach.

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Liz Luna

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Courtesy of Alex Garcia, Evil Cooks

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• Joroche de Campechano, small luscious dumplings made with masa in a rich, velvety broth from flavorful beans. It's dish that hails from the state of Campeche, located along the Yucatan peninsula, and has ties to the Mayan civilization. It's being made by chef Elvia Garcia.
  
• Mixtlapique, a non-masa tamal made by wrapping bluefin tuna in a corn husk, a dish that originates from Xochimilco in central Mexico, from chef Bañuelos

There will also be a curated cocktail series served throughout the night.

The Mitziote de Conejo — a stewed meat taco particular to Central Mexico specific the areas of Queretaro, Hidalgo, Mexico, Morelos, Tlaxcala as Mexico City— as prepared by Chef Elvia Huerta of Evil Cooks.

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Courtesy of Alex Garcia, Evil Cooks

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A tamal de bola representing the type found in Chiapas, served up by Chef Crystal Espinoza of Guerrilla Tacos at last year's dinner.

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Courtesy of Alex Garcia, Evil Cooks

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Alex Garcia said the spark of inspiration for the event came from a conversation with his mother, who suggested creating a menu celebrating dishes from each state of Mexico. Only then did the fireworks in his mind go off like a celebration of El Grito on Mexican Independence Day.

There are some changes from last year's dinner. This year welcomes the addition of Chef Macias to the line-up, and Garcia said he hopes to add more chefs for future "32 State Dinners." Additionally, the dinner this year is just one seating — as opposed to the two seatings they did last year — to create a more intimate atmosphere. And it will be an all new menu from last year.

“As a Mexican, you always try to come up with new ideas to feed yourself with something different,” Garcia said.