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Food

Actor Issa Rae opens new restaurant in South LA

A dark, sophisticated wooden bar counter contains glass bottles filled with dark liquid and a glowing yellow lamp in an Art Deco style
Somerville is a tribute to South LA's history.
(
Jakob N. Layman
/
Somerville
)

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South L.A. hasn’t traditionally been known for its vibrant restaurant scene, but that’s slowly changing with places like Alta Adams in West Adams and Two Hommés and Sunday Gravy in Inglewood. Now, Issa Rae, actor and entrepreneur, (Insecure, Barbie) along with partners Yonnie Hagos and Ajay Relan of GVO hospitality, have opened Somerville in historic View Park-Windsor Hills.

The name: Somerville refers to Hotel Somerville, a focal point for the Black jazz scene on Central Avenue in the 1930s and 40s. It regularly hosted the day's luminaries, including Duke Ellington, Cab Calloway, and Billie Holiday.

The motivation: "I just wanted to be able to dress up, hang out and eat good in my neighborhood," says Rae. "Ajay and Yonnie extended that basic desire into the visionary, dreamy destination that is Somerville.”  

The location: The trio had already collaborated on Hilltop Coffee + Kitchen, a casual coffee shop that is now in five locations across the city. “When we opened the original Hilltop [on Slauson]” said Hagos, “we could have put it anywhere. We made the decision to put in the heart of the community that made us who we are today.” With Somerville, they aim to create a space for the South L.A. community to honor its history.

A white rectangular plate contains a small silver container of butter with herbs on top, and an old style loaf of bread made up of six rolls
Parker House rolls
(
Jakob N. Layman
/
Somerville
)

The menu: The food pays homage to the dishes served at Hotel Somerville, like collard green lasagna, Parker House rolls, fried chicken, and caviar sliders, along with more modern fare. “It uses traditional influences, using modern techniques,” Relan said.

The economy: With so many restaurants closing, it seems a risky time to open. But Relan said they developed a certain level of resilience opening the five locations of Hilltop Coffee. “We have confidence in our abilities and know what we're capable of,” he added.

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