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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • Come with us to try some yummy Chinatown bites
    Two hands hold sandwiches made of baguette and filled with shredded carrots, cucumber, and a redish meat item.
    The special and Vietnamese cold cut sandwiches from Bánh Mì Mỹ Dung.

    Topline:

    Chinatown offers traditional Asian cuisine plus some new kids on the block, for around ten bucks.

    Why now: Chinatown has seen lots of change throughout its history-making as one of the most dynamic neighborhoods in Los Angeles. From various immigrant communities who call the area home to a couple of chefs who like to tinker to create their next great dish, it's an area that offers a wide range of cuisines.

    On the menu: From classics such as traditional Cantonese dim sum to-go, to hidden banh mi sandwiches and new school smash burgers, Chinatown makes sure no-one leaves hungry

    Listen 17:42
    Cheap Fast Eats #9: Chinatown

    Sitting directly next to downtown, Chinatown as we know it today was originally a mixed neighborhood of different immigrant communities, Asian but also Mexican and Italian. It became known as New Chinatown in the 1930s after residents of the original Chinatown were displaced due to the construction of Union Station.

    These days the issue of displacement remains a concern. Walking around Chinatown, you get the sense that it’s an area rapidly changing, with old storefronts either sitting vacant or being torn down, and new highrise structures serving as a backdrop.

    While many from Asian communities have moved to the suburbs, other low-income and elderly residents have stayed put, fighting for proper living conditions and access to grocery stores.

    Food is often political and can serve as a vehicle for this systemic change, from encroaching chain restaurants like the Buffalo Wild Wings on Cesar Chavez Avenue to newer independent restaurants spaces such as Lokels Only, located in the Jia Apartments building, which serves as an incubator for local pop-up restaurants.

    Grassroots organizations like the Chinatown Community for Equitable Development have been confronting these new businesses, holding them accountable to the community's needs.

    Here at Cheap Fast Eats, we strive to accurately represent the neighborhoods we visit, so we’re featuring both old and new Chinatown restaurants to give you a sense of what it's like to dine in the area.

    This is Cheap Fast Eats Chinatown.

    Welcome to Food Friday

    To help you ease into the weekend, every Friday we give you ideas on what to eat, where to go, and what to cook — plus the people and stories behind the dishes.

    Long Family Pastry

    A photo taken from above of various styrofoam boxes atop a concrete sidewalk. They're filled with white and yellow dumplings, yellow egg tarts, and a banana leaf wrapped item.
    Chicken buns, zongzi, shumai, har gow, sesame seed balls, BBQ buns and egg tarts amongst other items from Long’s Family Pastry.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    While dim sum carts are becoming a thing of the past due to restrictions brought on by the pandemic, and while there are some traditional sit-down restaurants in the area, if you’re in a hurry, to-go dim sum is the way to go in Chinatown.

    Long’s Family Pastry is a perfect example. When you enter the small indoor space, located on a quiet part of Spring Street, you’ll be welcomed by brightly-lit bakery cases packed with a variety of dim sum, plus pastries with fillings of everything from hot dogs to red bean paste.

    At Long’s, the special chicken bun is a crowd favorite. Tearing into the bun, you’ll find a mixture of ground chicken, lap cheong (cured Chinese sausage), hard-boiled egg, and other mixed vegetables. A couple of the buns are more than enough to fill you up. If you want more variety, there’s the zongzi, advertised as a Chinese tamale, a sticky rice dumpling filled with lap cheong, peanuts, and different veggies wrapped in bamboo leaves. Digging through it with your fork almost feels like a treasure hunt.

    You can also get your fill of shumai dumplings, taro, and turnip cakes to enjoy at home, the perfect parting gift to yourself for future dim sum cravings.

    A store front along a concrete sidewalk where a family walks by. The building has a dark red awning and yellow sign with red text that reads 'Family Pastry."
    Pedestrians and customers outside of Long’s Family Pastry.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    715 N Spring St., Los Angeles, CA 90012

    Open everyday 7:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.

    My Dung Sandwich Shop

    A busy store front along a side walk with a maroon awning and blue text that reads "Banh Mi My Dung." There are bananas hanging on strings at the entrance.
    Pedestrians and customers outside of Bánh Mì Mỹ Dung.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    A banh mi sandwich is one of life’s many pleasures, with its crusty bread, fresh garnishes made of sweet-tasting carrots and daikon radish, and a protein combo of your liking. A good banh mi can be found in areas such as the San Gabriel Valley or Westminster in Orange County, known as Little Saigon. However, finding them in other parts of Los Angeles can sometimes be more challenging.

    One under-the-radar gem is the tiny storefront of My Dung, located on Ord Street between Broadway and Spring Street. It doesn’t exactly scream neighborhood sandwich destination upon the first arrival. You’re greeted by fresh produce stacked outside the entrance, including bunches of bananas hanging from the outside awning. The same goes when entering what appears to be a corner store, but take a quick stroll to the back, and you’ll find a menu board with about eight different sandwiches for around $5 - $8.

    Grab a seat inside or hang outside while you wait for sandwiches. When they call your number, unwrap your offerings and dig in. The perfect crusty roll, which maintains the same level of softness on the inside of the bun, envelopes the sandwich's contents, whether it be cold cuts, barbeque pork, or shredded tofu, with a helping of pâté slathered inside, plus carrot, daikon, cilantro, and cucumber providing that extra bit of roughage. The ultra-fresh ingredients, paired with the salty-savory cuts of meat creates a highly satisfying experience.

    A man on the left with medium-light skin tone wears a white shirt and glasses while holding a sandwich in each hand. He sits next to a man with light-skin tone wearing a dark blue button up shirt and glasses while also holding a sandwich in each hand.
    Brian De Los Santos and Gab Chabrán with sandwiches from Bánh Mì Mỹ Dung.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    314 Ord St., Los Angeles, CA 90012
    Monday-Friday 7:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m., Saturday 7:00 a.m. - 5:30 p.m., Sunday 8 a.m. - 1 p.m.

    Angry Egret Dinette

    A photo taken from behind a window looking into a dining patio with dappled light, orange and sea foam square tables with white chairs and various plants. On the window there's black text that reads "Angry Egret Dinette."
    Customers sit outside at Angry Egret Dinette.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    Chef Wes Avila's cafe inside the Mandarin Plaza feels like an oasis off busy Broadway. Avila, originally of Guerilla Tacos, opened up Angry Egret Dinette in Oct. 2020 as a pandemic project where he could serve whatever food he could dream up, via a window in an open-air patio setting.

    The type of cuisine that Avila serves at Angry Egret Dinette could be classified as many things, from "Alta California cuisine" to comfort food, but whatever it is, it's nothing short of mouthwatering. With a variety of influences from growing up in nearby Pico Rivera and working in fine dining restaurants, he serves up several sublime dishes he calls L.A.-style cuisine.

    A portrait of a man with medium-light skin tone wearing a button up shirt with light blue, red, and yellow stripes and glasses. His arms are covered in tattoos and his hair is pulled back. He has a salt and pepper beard and goatee and is smiling at the camera. Behind him there's a mural of a sunset, palm trees, and large white flowers. To the right of frame there's a glass door with writing on it that reads "Angry Egret Dinette" "Lunch Service Tues-Sun 9am-3pm" "Dinner Service Fri-Sat 5:30pm-9:30pm."
    Owner/chef Wes Avila at Angry Egret Dinette.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    Order the egg sandwich for $8 with a pillowy pile of soft scrambled eggs, layered on both sides of an American cheese sandwich, on an ultra cushiony bolillo bread sourced from a bakery in East L.A.

    For a couple of bucks more, try the McTorta, made with perfectly seasoned beef gyro, then topped with an over-easy fried egg, sealed on both sides with equal amounts of American cheese on one blissful bolillo. Don’t forget to douse your sando with their chile de árbol salsa, as fresh as it is fiery, especially if you’re looking for that extra spice.

    A photo taken from above of two beige square plates atop a sea foam table with breakfast sandwiches split in half so you can see the egg, cheese, and sausage inside. One plate has a cup of green salsa and the other red salsa.
    The McTorta and Egg Sandwich at Angry Egret Dinette.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    970 N Broadway STE 114, Los Angeles, CA 90012
    Tuesday-Thursday, 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m.; Friday- Saturday, 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m., 5:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m., Closed Monday

    Amboy Quality Meats & Delicious Burgers

    A close up of a burger with a sesame bun, brown grilled meat, yellow cheese all atop a styrofoam plate.
    The Amboy classic amongst the fancy and steakhouse classic burgers from Amboy Quality Meats and Delicious Burgers.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    The lively brasserie-esque storefront is owned and operated by Alvin Cailan, previously of Eggslut and, more recently, the popular YouTube series The Burger Show, co-hosted with George Motz. In the show, Cailan and Motz travel to remote cities throughout the country, trying different regional styles of burgers. This extensive research is put on full display at Amboy.

    For around $10, you can get the Amboy classic, featuring a sesame seed bun, a smashed patty (for a little extra, you can add another patty), American cheese, grilled onions, and their signature burger sauce, Cailan’s take on something like In-N-Out’s. This sweet, creamy tanginess melts into the rest of the burger.

    Meanwhile, the Steakhouse burger comes with their house steak sauce, a far cry from A1, with a robust taste that's equal parts sweet and umami perfectly complementing the rest of the burger. If you’re feeling extra special, opt for the Fancy Classic, made with melted provolone and aioli. Because you’re worth it.

    The exterior of a large plaza made of concrete with green Chinese roofing and Chinese characters in red text.
    Pedestrians and customers outside of Far East Plaza, where Amboy Quality Meats & Delicious Burgers.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    727 N Broadway No. 117, Los Angeles, CA 90012
    Wednesday-Sunday 12:00 p.m. - 3:00 p.m., 5:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m.
    Closed Monday and Tuesday

    Perilla L.A.

    Two rounded rectangular disposable bowls atop a bright yellow table. The bowls are filled with colorful food. Including sushi, rice, kimchi, broccoli, and potato salad.
    Kimbap and the banchan rice combo from Perilla LA.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    Anyone who’s been to a Korean barbeque restaurant knows that one of the best things, aside from the glistening cuts of meat grilled in front of you, are the side dishes accompanying your meal.

    Chef Jihee Kim, formerly of Rustic Canyon, has brought her specific spin to the style, creating a dining experience that solely focuses on the side dishes.

    With offerings changing daily, based on what produce is readily available at the farmer's market, when we visited the banchan our choices included a soy sauce marinated okra with a slight char. It had a perfect flavor and texture in each bite, an interplay between the vegetable's saltiness and bitterness. Other choices include kimchi made with collard greens, a substantive and memorable taste, with aromatic spice and hearty leafy greens. Another favorite is the rolled egg, made with a rolled omelet with seaweed in its center, resulting in a cool refreshing sweet bite.

    A view into a driveway from the sidewalk with a small restaurant in the far end surrounded by light pink apartment buildings.
    Pedestrians and customers outside of Perilla LA.
    (
    Brian Feinzimer
    /
    LAist
    )

    1027 Alpine St. BLDG E, Los Angeles, CA 90012
    Wednesday-Sunday 11:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.

  • Ventura County Fire Department's new complex
    a room filled with thick smoke and a fire on the ceiling
    Flames, and smoke can be triggered by remote control at the new Ventura County Fire Department Life Fire Training Complex in Camarillo, to create simulated firefighting experiences.
    Topline:
    While the flames and smoke are real, the danger is not. This is the Ventura County Fire Department’s new Live Fire Training Complex. A firefighter is controlling the flames and smoke with what looks like a TV remote control.

    What is it? The $32 million project includes live fire training buildings, a dedicated ladder training prop, and other facilities designed to give firefighters hands-on experience.

    What's next? While the Ventura County Fire Department owns and operates the facility, the goal is for it to be used to train first responders from throughout the region. It’s already hosted firefighters from a number of other agencies in the county, as well as teams from neighboring counties.

    Read on ... for more on the new facility.

    A room on the second floor of a Camarillo building is quickly filling with smoke. From the far end of the room, flames start to shoot across the ceiling.

    While the flames and smoke are real, the danger is not.

    This is the Ventura County Fire Department’s new Live Fire Training Complex. A firefighter is controlling the flames and smoke with what looks like a TV remote control.

    The $32 million project includes live fire training buildings, a dedicated ladder training prop, and other facilities designed to give firefighters hands-on experience.

    "This complex has a 'Class A' combustible burn building, which we are standing in now," said Ventura County Fire Department Training Chief Casey Rosdaile. "The 'Class B' building is propane-fed. This building allows us to train in real fire conditions and real fire behavior. That building (the 'Class B' building) allows us to do a lot more of the operational steps. There's always a gap between the simulated thing and a real thing, and we're trying to limit that as much as possible. That way, when someone trains, they aren't going to be the real thing and say that it's nothing like they practiced."

    The buildings are made of concrete, so they won't be affected by the flames and smoke. The smoke kind that's used on movie shoots, so it doesn't leave clothing with the smoky smell like you get from a brush fire.

    He added that the new facilities can help train firefighters, as well as other first responders, on ways to deal with a number of emergencies.

    "These buildings can host anything from sheriff's operations to (simulated) structure fires, to search and rescue," said Rosdaile. "There are a million things you can do in here. You can train 50 to 60 firefighters at a time, so it really gives us a lot of flexibility."

    The two new buildings are just part of the fire department’s fire training complex. It covers 22 acres of land on the southeast side of Camarillo Airport. There are nearly 18,000 square feet of indoor training space, with 32 training rooms.

    The dedicated live fire training buildings give firefighters experience with scenarios that were often difficult and time-consuming to create.

    "We would light the materials, and let the fire conditions and environment build, to create a realistic training environment, and then send the folks in to extinguish it," said Ventura County Fire Chief Dustin Gardner. "Then, we would have to clean it all out, and reset it, and start again. We would get a couple of burns a day done. Now, we're getting multiple burns an hour."

    Gardner said it's a complex they've sought to create for years.

    "This facility allows us to close the gap between training and reality. This allows us to expose our firefighters to as realistic an environment as we can repetitively, and under safe conditions."

    Among the props at the facility is a vehicle chassis equipped with gas lines, which can be ignited, so firefighters can practice fighting those types of fires.

    "This is our vehicle prop, and it lets us simulate fire. We can push the fire to different parts of the vehicle, so we can set it in the interior, in the cab, the wheel well, as well as the engine compartment," said Ventura County Fire Department Quartermaster Jake Finley. "It creates a good learning environment, with teachable moments. You can see in the background some of the old vehicles (we used to burn salvaged vehicles), and it was a really intensive process. We couldn't repeat it as quickly."

    While the Ventura County Fire Department owns and operates the facility, the goal is for it to be used to train first responders from throughout the region. It’s already hosted firefighters from a number of other agencies in the county, as well as teams from neighboring counties.

  • Sponsored message
  • Iran war could have unexpected effect
    a person in a hat spreads fertilizer over a dirt field with a green field of trees in the background
    A worker spreads fertilizer after planting potatoes at Bluff View Farms on April 24 in West Jefferson, North Carolina. High fertilizer prices due to the war in Iran have hit farms already dealing with severe weather, tariffs and the high costs of fuel and labor.

    Topline:

    Before the war, around one-third of the world's fertilizer transported by sea passed through the Strait of Hormuz, according to UN Trade and Development. The waterway has become a shipping chokepoint in recent months.

    Why it matters: With the strait closed, fertilizer shipments from the Persian Gulf slumped and prices rose, affecting countries all around the world that import fertilizer. The war also created a global shortage of natural gas, a key component in nitrogen fertilizer manufacturing.

    What about US food prices? It caused a massive headache for U.S. farmers who were hit with higher fertilizer prices and limited availability just as they were deciding what to plant for the upcoming growing season.

    But the costs borne by farmers don't necessarily get passed on to consumers, and food system experts say they're unlikely to have a major impact on the retail prices of fruit and vegetables.

    Read on ... for more on the potential fertilizer shortage.

    When the war with Iran started, one of the top economic concerns globally was the slowdown of oil shipments. But there was another critical export that got stuck in the region when hostilities began: fertilizer.

    Before the war, around one-third of the world's fertilizer transported by sea passed through the Strait of Hormuz, according to UN Trade and Development. The waterway has become a shipping chokepoint in recent months.

    With the strait closed, fertilizer shipments from the Persian Gulf slumped and prices rose, affecting countries all around the world that import fertilizer. The war also created a global shortage of natural gas, a key component in nitrogen fertilizer manufacturing.

    It caused a massive headache for U.S. farmers who were hit with higher fertilizer prices and limited availability just as they were deciding what to plant for the upcoming growing season.

    But the costs borne by farmers don't necessarily get passed on to consumers, and food system experts say they're unlikely to have a major impact on the retail prices of fruit and vegetables.

    "Consumers are going to see higher food prices come September to January, once harvests start coming in, and the few months thereafter," said Chris Barrett, a professor of agricultural economics at Cornell University. "Very little of that is going to be directly attributable to fertilizer."

    That's because food inflation is generally driven by larger factors affecting multiple parts of the food supply chain, such as fewer workers and high fuel costs.

    US farmers are rethinking their plans

    About one-third of the fertilizer used by U.S. farmers is imported, according to The Fertilizer Institute, an industry trade group. TFI Vice President of Public Affairs Christopher Glen said little of that comes through the Strait of Hormuz.

    "But we get impacted in a big way because the fertilizer market is global," Glen said over email. "Even if those tons from the Mideast aren't coming to the US, they are still tons that have been removed from the market and need to be made up elsewhere. That's where the pressure comes from."

    An American Farm Bureau Federation survey released in April reported that 70% of respondents said they couldn't afford all the fertilizer they needed this season.

    Some farmers are more vulnerable to price swings than others. Producers of corn and wheat, which rely heavily on fertilizer, can spend around a third of their operating costs on fertilizer alone. Half of the farmers who responded to a survey released by the National Corn Growers Association in early April said they wouldn't apply the full amount of fertilizer to their corn crop this year, due largely to higher costs and limited availability.

    Because farmers often secure their fertilizer stores well before a growing season begins, some weren't seriously affected by the price swings created by the war in Iran. (Iran said it closed the Strait of Hormuz shortly after it was attacked by the U.S. and Israel at the end of February. U.S. corn growing season typically begins in April.) But they are worried about the future: corn growers who responded to the survey were twice as concerned about the 2027 corn crop as they were about this year's.

    This season, some farmers may opt to plant crops that require less nitrogen fertilizer than corn, such as soy beans, in response to rising costs.

    According to USDA data, farmers are expected to plant 95.3 million acres of corn this year, down from 98.8 million acres last year. But the total acreage of soybeans is predicted to rise to 85.4 million acres this year from 81.2 million acres last year.

    US grocery prices probably won't take a huge hit

    If higher fertilizer costs lead to smaller harvests, that could contribute to modest retail price hikes. A TD Economics analysis estimated that a 2-5% production shortfall in North America could grow food inflation by around 0.1-0.5 percentage points in 2027.

    Sponsor MessageBut experts say the costs of the fertilizer shortage will be largely shouldered by farmers.

    The amount a farmer spends on fertilizer is a small fraction of the total cost to grow food and get it to grocery store shelves. Just 12 cents of every dollar U.S. consumers spend on food goes to farms, while the rest is received by transportation companies, processors, wholesalers and grocery stores, according to the USDA. And the USDA's National Agricultural Statistics Service reported that U.S. farms spent around 7% of their budgets on fertilizer, lime and soil conditioners in 2024 (though farmers growing crops more reliant on fertilizer such as corn would spend more).

    Additionally, farmers don't have much bargaining power to negotiate with wholesalers for higher crop prices when their operating costs rise, according to Rob Vos, a senior research fellow at the International Food Policy Research Institute. "Those buyers will go to other farmers to try and get it cheaper," he said.

    But there are factors other than the fertilizer crunch that are more likely to cause food prices to jump. Barrett said the global food industry is facing a "really unpleasant layer cake" of pressures, from tariffs and extreme weather to higher prices on labor, fuel and fertilizer.

    "No one of those by itself is especially painful," he said. "But when you add them all up, they become quite painful together."

    In parts of Africa and Asia, the effects of the fertilizer shortage could be far worse. Jorge Moreira da Silva, Executive Director of the UN Office for Project Services, said in April that the reduction of shipments through the Strait of Hormuz may prove "very significant and severe" for poorer countries. Less-developed countries that rely heavily on fertilizer from the Persian Gulf include Sudan, Sri Lanka, Tanzania and Somalia.

    The fertilizer industry is recovering — and may adapt in the process

    Some fertilizer prices have begun to fall again in recent weeks, after the U.S. and Iran reached a deal to reopen the Strait of Hormuz last month.

    The Trump administration has also taken steps to lower fertilizer costs for American farmers. This week, Trump temporarily suspended "countervailing duties" on certain phosphate imports, which are added to some imported goods to cancel out subsidies provided by foreign governments.

    Still, it will be a while before the fertilizer sector returns to normal. Vos estimated that it could take weeks or months for fertilizer manufacturing plants to come back online and return to previous production levels. If high prices stick around, that could snarl the plans of U.S. farmers preparing to plant cool-season crops this autumn, he added.

    Barrett said the trouble with the fertilizer industry has also gotten farmers thinking about how they can protect themselves from these kinds of supply-chain disruptions in the future and looking for other ways to replenish their soil, such as manure, compost and cover crops.

    "Just like we're seeing more people interested in electric vehicles because the price of gasoline and diesel has gone up, you see more farmers interested in other ways of replenishing soil nutrients as the price of fertilizer has gone up," he said.

  • How America was born from more than a tea party
    a black and white drawing of old-timey crowds standing on a dock by a large ship
    An illustration of the Boston Tea Party, when colonists dumped British East India Company tea into the harbor on Dec. 16, 1773. Some accounts say this marked a pivotal moment when Americans started loving coffee. But one historian says Americans were drinking lots of coffee before then.

    Topline:

    Coffee was an important part of American culture from the start. And coffeehouses were essential, too — serving as hubs for brewing ideas of independence.

    Backstory: "The first documented example of a mortar and pestle used to grind coffee beans was on the Mayflower" in 1620, says historian Michelle Craig McDonald, the author of Coffee Nation: How One Commodity Transformed the Early United States.

    How it helped the Revolution: In the colonial era, coffeehouses were hotbeds for seditious thought — where people planned acts of revolution.

    "Coffeehouses are kind of famous for being places where people think and plot things," says Mark Pendergrast, author of Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World.

    Read on ... for more on the historical influence of coffee in the founding of the United States.

    A consequential act of defiance secured tea's place as perhaps the most iconic beverage of America's colonial era.

    The Boston Tea Party became an essential ingredient in the recipe for revolution in the following years.

    But tea wasn't the only hot beverage with a prominent role in America's fight for independence.

    Coffee was an important part of American culture from the start. And coffeehouses were essential, too — serving as hubs for brewing ideas of independence.

    As the United States celebrates 250 years, here's what to know about America's early history of coffee.

    Colonists were drinking coffee long before the United States existed

    Europeans brought coffee with them when they came to America.

    "The first documented example of a mortar and pestle used to grind coffee beans was on the Mayflower" in 1620, says historian Michelle Craig McDonald, the author of Coffee Nation: How One Commodity Transformed the Early United States.

    "The fact that coffee was present so early is not surprising if you think about it," McDonald says. "A number of those who were on the Mayflower came to North America from Amsterdam, which was a major coffee trading center in Western Europe by the 17th century."

    The first coffeehouse in the colonies opened in 1676 in Boston, a century before the U.S. declared independence, she says. Some taverns sold coffee even earlier.

    The Boston Tea Party probably wasn't the dramatic turning point toward coffee that some claim

    On the night of Dec. 16, 1773, disgruntled colonists boarded three ships moored in Boston Harbor and threw overboard more than 92,000 pounds of tea owned by the British East India Company.

    Tensions had been building between the Crown and the colonies over the previous decade, as Britain tried to levy taxes on its colonies to recoup war debts.

    The Boston Tea Party protest was targeted at the British government's passing of the Tea Act in 1773, which granted the East India Company a monopoly over tea sales in the colonies. While the British had removed some unpopular taxes in the preceding years, they left tea taxes in place. Colonial merchants were especially upset that the act allowed the East India Company to undercut their tea business.

    To build solidarity for their cause of sovereignty, some patriots called on colonialists to swear off tea in favor of coffee. It's why many histories point to the Boston Tea Party as a turning point when Americans switched from mostly drinking tea to mostly coffee. The anti-tea sentiment was immortalized in a founding father's now-famous letter.

    In July 1774, John Adams (before he became the second U.S. president) wrote to his wife Abigail, recounting an incident during his travels. After a long day, he asked the proprietor of the house where he was lodging for a cup of tea, provided it was smuggled and free of British taxes.

    " 'No sir, said she, we have renounced all Tea in this Place. I cant make Tea, but I'le make you Coffee.' Accordingly I have drank Coffee every Afternoon since, and have borne it very well. Tea must be universally renounced. I must be weaned, and the sooner, the better," Adams wrote.

    Despite John Adams claiming a newfound patriotic duty to appreciate coffee, McDonald says colonists had been drinking lots of coffee all along.

    She studied advertisements from the 1760s and '70s to estimate how many shops sold coffee versus tea. Even before the Boston Tea Party, she says, "coffee is definitely more broadly available than tea is."

    A big reason? It was cheaper. "Its price again per pound is significantly less, which tells you about its availability, its accessibility to drinkers."

    Historians say it's hard to definitively compare tea with coffee consumption, though, as official records from before America gained independence were inconsistent.

    And smuggling was rampant, making official records even less reliable.

    "There is a vast amount of smuggling," says Joyce Chaplin, a professor of early American history at Harvard University. "So they're not paying formal duties on tea that they get from the Dutch. They're probably not paying formal duties on coffee from the French Caribbean."

    And Chaplin notes that people who loudly proclaimed a new appreciation for coffee over tea weren't always doing what they said. It could have been political pandering. "I do not drink tea that comes via the East India Company," she posits someone of the era saying. "But, you know, other sources are fine. Ditto for the coffee."

    Coffeehouses were a hub for revolutionary ideas 

    In the colonial era, coffeehouses were hotbeds for seditious thought — where people planned acts of revolution.

    "Coffeehouses are kind of famous for being places where people think and plot things," says Mark Pendergrast, author of Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World.

    A coffeehouse called the Green Dragon served as one of the locations for planning the Boston Tea Party. Years earlier, the Old London Coffeehouse in Philadelphia was a meeting place for strategizing responses to another British tax, the Stamp Act of 1765.

    In Britain, coffeehouses were nicknamed "penny universities," Pendergrast says: "because for a penny you could go and learn a whole lot by sitting around in a coffeehouse and discussing everything." The same attitude traveled across the Atlantic.

    Early American coffeehouses would commonly have city business directories, libraries of newspapers and currency exchange information. People could get maritime insurance there or buy things at auction.

    "There's a reason why coffeehouses become places of colonial protest … in the 1760s, in the 1770s, and it's because it is the place where traders and merchants tended to gather," historian McDonald says. "That's where they heard about the economics of the day."

    Taverns were more likely than coffeehouses to have rooms for rent and stables for travelers' horses. They were also more likely to have food.

    Interestingly enough, coffeehouses could serve alcohol and taverns could serve coffee.

    But the vibes at each were different. While women and men could "riotously drink together" in taverns, coffeehouses often didn't allow women, according to Chaplin of Harvard.

    "The sense was the coffeehouse was the place where you had a clear head — to argue about politics, to find out what was going on in the business world, to cut a business deal," she says. "Whereas taverns were places where, in a sense, you refueled."

    Still, she says, the lines between the two "weren't completely clear."

    The cost of America's revolutionary drink 

    Coffee (and tea for that matter) was part of a growing globalization of trade around this time.

    Much of the coffee in the colonies was grown in the Caribbean, while tea came from China.

    Supply was up and coffee was easier than ever to drink. "Trade and frankly, imperialism, are making it possible for … colonial products to be produced and transferred to other parts of the world in greater and greater quantities," says Chaplin.

    As a result, by the time of the American Revolution, both coffee and tea were in reach for many common people. "They're both becoming affordable luxuries," Chaplin says.

    Fancy coffee and tea paraphernalia were also part of this increasingly global market. Middle and upper-class people would have wanted special implements for drinking these beverages and a place to drink it. That meant they needed wood for coffee tables, silver for coffeepots, and porcelain for teapots.

    "These two beverages are encouraging people to consume all kinds of new stuff," says Chaplin. "The mahogany that comes out of the Caribbean, the china coming out of China, silver that is mined principally in South and Central America and processed in a lot of the parts of the world."

    There's a dark side to coffee's history, too. The plantations that supplied the crop ran on the labor of enslaved people. By 1790, half of the world's coffee was being grown in the French colony of Saint-Domingue, in what is today Haiti, Pendergrast says, where slaves were routinely mistreated, raped and murdered.

    The Declaration of Independence, signed in 1776, is infamous for a contradiction. It proclaimed that "all men are created equal," but failed to acknowledge the hundreds of thousands of enslaved people living in America at the time.

    Coffee carried a similar contradiction. The beverage that fueled conversations that inspired America's fight for independence — centered on the ideals of life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness — depended on enslavement.

    "Coffee had this paradoxical effect, that it did promote revolutionary thought," Pendergrast says. "But it was also grown by slaves."

  • Weary Boyle Heights residents take on testing
    A man with curly hair inspects water samples while wearing a respiratory mask.
    Emmanuel Carrera Ruedas gathers water samples from the L.A. River on Wednesday, July 1.

    Topline:

    Since the Lineage fire ignited June 17 in Boyle Heights, residents, environmental advocates and researchers have taken it upon themselves to find out what’s in the air and water.

    Why it matters: They’ve launched their own sampling efforts, seeking answers about what people have been breathing and contaminants that may have entered the L.A. River.

    Why now: The community-led testing comes as residents have reported eye irritation, nausea and headaches while questioning whether the government has done enough to capture the fire’s environmental and public health impacts.

    The backstory: Those concerns are especially alarming in Boyle Heights, East L.A. and neighboring Southeast L.A. communities, where neighbors have long faced disproportionate pollution burdens.

    Read on... for more on how residents are taking matters into their own hands.

    Wearing gloves and a KN95 mask, Emmanuel Carrera Ruedas hunkered down near a storm drain, just steps away from the smoldering Lineage warehouse fire, as he filmed himself pointing to what he described as insulation and foam flowing into the drain.

    “The thing about this water is that it all gets dumped straight into the L.A. River,” Carrera Ruedas, of Cudahy, told his Instagram followers in a June 22 reel.

    In the past two weeks, Carrera Ruedas has spent evenings gathering water samples outside Lineage and from the L.A. River as he and other community scientists are partnering with experts from UCLA and Columbia University to learn what’s in the runoff. Samples will soon be sent to a lab in New York.

    “For far too long, the river has just been a drainage, a dumping site for companies,” said Carrera Ruedas, 27, who often encounters toads, birds and fish inhabiting its ecosystem.

    “There is life in there,” he told Boyle Heights Beat. “We’re all in proximity to the river, and that’s kind of the vein that runs through the city that really connects us all.”

    Community-led testing

    Since the Lineage fire ignited June 17 in Boyle Heights, residents, environmental advocates and researchers have taken it upon themselves to find out what’s in the air and water. They’ve launched their own sampling efforts, seeking answers about what people have been breathing and contaminants that may have entered the L.A. River.

    The community-led testing comes as residents have reported eye irritation, nausea and headaches while questioning whether the government has done enough to capture the fire’s environmental and public health impacts.

    Those concerns are especially alarming in Boyle Heights, East L.A. and neighboring Southeast L.A. communities, where neighbors have long faced disproportionate pollution burdens.

    Crews clean up debris from a burned building.
    Crews navigate around piles of debris and puddles of water on the eastern edge of the Lineage warehouse as they begin cleanup efforts on June 25, 2026.
    (
    Andrew Lopez
    /
    Boyle Heights Beat
    )

    An estimated 31,700 workers, about 81% of whom are Latino, live in the county and city zones where a smoke advisory was issued, according to new data from the UCLA Latino Policy & Politics Institute. They work in health care, manufacturing and food service industries. About half of the workers earn $3,333 or less a month, below L.A. County’s “very low income” threshold.

    The area also experiences diesel pollution levels three times the county average, as well as higher rates of asthma and cardiovascular disease-related emergency department visits, according to UCLA. Nearly 10,000 households in the area lack air conditioning.

    “This is not only an air quality emergency but also a worker and environmental justice issue,” UCLA said.

    Behind the push for environmental justice

    For years, East Yard Communities for Environmental Justice has shed light on how Latinos on the Eastside often bear the brunt of the region’s pollution and climate disasters, such as the East L.A. oil spill in late May that dumped nearly 25,000 gallons of crude oil onto streets and into the L.A. River. For the organization, “We are just trying to breathe” is a common phrase.

    “Something I’ve told many people over a long period of time is, ‘We’re not polar bears. We’re not whales.’ Nobody is coming to save us. We have to step up and defend ourselves,” said mark! Lopez with East Yard Communities for Environmental Justice.

    A woman wearing a respiratory mask outside affixes one to a boy.
    Antonia Castillo, 73, helps her grandson Aiden Velez put on a mask near their Boyle Heights home.
    (
    Andrew Lopez
    /
    Boyle Heights Beat
    )

    East Yard members opted to take air samples themselves, dissatisfied with the South Coast Air Quality Management District’s assessment of the fire’s air-quality impacts. They placed sorbent tubes, which Lopez described as passive air monitors, outside nearby homes for about seven days. Soon, they’ll send the findings to a Columbia University lab with the help of UC Irvine.

    What officials have done so far

    South Coast AQMD said it conducted “mobile monitoring” during the first two days of the fire that found “significantly elevated concentrations” of particulate matter. The agency then deployed particulate matter monitors at Eastman Avenue Elementary and Robert Louis Stevenson Middle School that provide “near-real time exposure information.” AQMD noted that the L.A. Fire Department and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency conducted their own monitoring, while third-party contractor Onterris has continued monitoring during the cleanup phase.

    AQMD also observed smoke impacts throughout the region, issuing a particle pollution advisory in English and Spanish that remained in effect through June 24.

    What's next and lingering questions

    Meanwhile, Lopez said more sampling is necessary, and he questioned the effectiveness of efforts by Lineage, AQMD and LAFD. He and other advocates criticized public statements from officials, including Mayor Karen Bass’ assurances that “the air is not dangerous,” even as residents were reporting feeling sick. He also took aim at LAFD Chief Jaime Moore’s statements that ammonia was not toxic to individuals unless they had respiratory issues or came in direct contact with it. East Yard also called for evacuations in the area.

    “It feels like at the city and county level they don’t currently have the capacity to really handle this situation,” Lopez added. “I think it really requires state and federal intervention to make sure that the cleanup and restoration isn’t mismanaged.”

    Yoshira “Yoshi” Ornelas Van Horne, an exposure scientist and assistant professor with the UCLA Fielding School’s Department of Environmental Health Sciences, said the Lineage fire is exposing how little is done to “respond to public health emergencies and disasters” in communities like Boyle Heights and East L.A., areas “that have so often been referred to as environmental injustice communities.”

    Residents and community organizations like East Yard, Ornelas Van Horne said, “are always the ones having to respond.”

    “They’re relying on each other. They’re relying on their networks and their organizing power to be able to do that on the ground sampling.”

    Ornelas Van Horne reached out to colleagues at Columbia’s Multi-Element Trace Analysis Laboratory in New York after she learned of the sampling taking place and of community concerns about the runoff making its way down to the L.A. River.

    Those samples will be analyzed for heavy metals like cadmium, lead and arsenic, she said.

    The L.A. County Public Works Department, according to the Los Angeles Times, deployed three containment booms on the L.A. River and continued to monitor the water as it made its way to the ocean.

    Carrera Ruedas began collecting water samples on the third day of the fire. He said he took the first sample from the L.A. River, about 100 meters from the spout where it spilled out. The second was taken from outside Lineage. He has amassed dozens of samples since then.

    Cudahy sits alongside the lower L.A. River, and after the fire, Carrera Ruedas recalled a “heavy stench that affected people in our community.” The trash he saw in the river was the foam and insulation that came from Lineage, he said.

    “It really pissed me off, just to see all this trash go in there and nobody doing anything about it,” said Carrera Ruedas, who also serves as the parks and environmental justice commissioner for Cudahy.

    The L.A. River, Carrera Ruedas said, is “part of our ecosystem.”

    “This is not just affecting me. This affects everybody else around me. This affects people who love the beach, people who just want our water systems clean,” he said.