The Brief

Walk into Rustic Canyon on Wilshire Boulevard in Santa Monica any evening between 5 and 6:30 p.m., and you'll find chef Elijah DeLeon plating birria de res the way his Jalisco-born grandmother taught him. Meanwhile, at Seline, on Main Street, chef Dave Beran is fortifying a dish with eucalyptus because "when it rains, Topanga Canyon smells like eucalyptus."

On Montana Avenue, the line at Bread Head is full of locals ordering their second turkey pesto focaccia of the week. And at Xuntos, a Spanish tapas restaurant housed in a building as old as Route 66 itself, near the Promenade, chef Sandra Cordero is serving percebes — goose barnacles — to a dining room that hasn't stopped filling since the Palisades Fires hit.

A new generation of Santa Monica chefs have gravitated to the neighborhood because, they say, it offers something often rare today — community. Meanwhile, their top-tier skills are helping turn it into one of the city's diing destinations.

Alex Williams/Jordan Snyder, Bread Head

Alex Williams and Jordan Snyder opened Bread Head in Santa Monica in 2024 after four years of pop-ups perfecting their "Frankenstein focaccia."

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Will Blunt

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Courtesy Bread Head

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Bread Head's mozzarella sandwich on their signature "Frankenstein focaccia"

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Gab Chabrán

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LAist

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In 2019, Alex Williams and Jordan Snyder earned a Michelin star together at Trois Mec, the 24-seat tasting-menu spot in Hollywood. But for years, the duo had been dreaming of opening a sandwich shop together, viewing fine dining as a precarious enterprise. "People run down the list of restaurants,” says Williams. “You typically try that place out, and maybe you come back once more." Plus, with a newborn at home, the demanding hours meant he was "going down a path of not being around."

In 2020, after Trois Mec closed during the pandemic, they pivoted to pop-ups, crafting what Williams calls their "Frankenstein focaccia" — inspired by an Italian kebab shop sandwich he'd become obsessed with during a trip to Italy. What mattered most was "the balance of bread to filling ratio" and achieving a "nice crispy texture... like the underside of Pizza Hut pizza... that lacy kind of buttery crust." The recipe, tweaked through countless batches at his house during the pandemic, would become the foundation for every sandwich at Bread Head.

After four years of pop-ups, they found a spot on Montana Avenue. "Once I saw Montana, it just clicked," Williams says. "People spend all day down here between Pilates, nails, salon, coffee, and lunch." Opening their first brick-and-mortar in 2024, they quickly expanded to Manhattan Beach and Westwood over the next 15 months. But it was the regulars who surprised him most. "Some locals come in twice a week, and you get to know these guys... how was your trip to Italy? How are the kids?" Williams says. "That's really special." Turkey pesto, his least favorite sandwich, became their top seller. "You can't always cook for yourself," he laughs.

Chef Dave Beran, Pasjoli and Seline

Chef Dave Beran of Pasjoli and Seline in Santa Monica.

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John Troxell

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A dish from Seline's autumn menu, where Chef Dave Beran says "seasonality meets surrealism."

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Pete Lee

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Courtesy Seline

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When you ask Chef Dave Beran to share his personal story, it resembles something like a plot line from The Bear. After spending 10 years with Chicago's Alinea group — a three-Michelin-star destination for modernist cuisine — Beran moved to Los Angeles in 2016, part of a wave of chefs making similar moves. "L.A. felt very much like something sparked... like this magic, like I felt in Chicago in the early 2000s," he says. But it wasn't downtown that called to him. After a lease in the Arts District fell through, Beran found himself cycling around Santa Monica, slowly falling in love with Main Street. "One of the few streets that really felt like the neighborhoods I knew," he says. "I wanted to become part of a community, not just someone living there."

In 2019, he opened Pasjoli with a simple vision: a neighborhood bistro serving refined French cuisine through the lens of California produce. Five months later, the pandemic hit. Like other restaurants, Pasjoli was on the verge of closing. "It felt like there was a community here that wanted us to survive," Beran says. "And we did."

After a successful five years, in 2024, Beran hit reset. While sitting at the bar with his 3 year-old-daughter, he had a moment of clarity. He realized the restaurant had drifted into being "a little more fine dining and a little less approachable," he says. "It had become the place I don't wanna go to all the time anymore."

He closed for three weeks to reconfigure, returning with a new menu. A few months later, he opened a second restaurant, Seline, also on Main Street. It was the opposite of Pasjoli — a 16 to 22 course journey ($295 per person) that Beran describes as "where seasonality meets surrealism," harking back to his modernist Alinea days. The Autumn menu alone tells the story: leek with eucalyptus and banana, Dungeness crab with smoked pork, coffee paired with caviar. "The last thing I wanted was a restaurant that you could pick up and put anywhere," Beran says. "I felt it was very important to be representative of where we are — but not in a predictable way. For me, it was finding my own storyline through my life that related to what exists here now." At Seline, Santa Monica isn't just an address — it's an ingredient.

Beran believes the neighborhood is now destined for gastronomic greatness. "We're two more restaurants away from this being one of the best dining destinations in the city," he says. For Beran, that tipping point isn't a question of if — it's when.

Chef Sandra Cordero, Xuntos

Chef Sandra Cordero brings the flavors of her childhood summers in Galicia to Xuntos in Santa Monica.

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Courtesy Xuntos

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Xuntos' menu features Galician specialties including pescaíto frito, empanadas gallega and fresh seafood.

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Courtesy Xuntos

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Chef Sandra Cordero spent her youth in Amsterdam, but it was summers in Galicia with her Spanish father that shaped her. For six to eight weeks each year, she'd find herself in a tiny village of 500 people, walking cows to fields and absorbing a food culture that stuck. "Childhood memories of Coruña... a seaside town close to the beach, going from one place to another, eating tapas," she recalls. "I love eating for six hours."

After a decade at Gasolina Café in Woodland Hills, Cordero, who moved to New York in 2001 before coming to L.A., had long wanted to serve the food she grew up with. Santa Monica called for two reasons: beach culture ("tapas close to the beach... that was the feeling I wanted") and the renowned Wednesday farmers market ("reminds me of home, it's my people, it's my family.") She opened Xuntos, (pronounced shoon-toess), , which opened just a few blocks from the Promenade, before Gasolina closed in early 2025, marking Cordero's full transition from the San Fernando Valley to the Westside.

The menu philosophy mirrors that of Galician fish shops: "just a little plancha and steamer... really simple, getting the best ingredients... not so fussy." True to that spirit, the menu features percebes — goose barnacles flown in from Alaska — alongside pescaíto frito, empanadas gallega and fresh shell beans from the farmers market for fabada, a hearty Spanish stew from the Asturias region made with white beans, chorizo, morcilla and pork.

Xuntos is housed in a 1926 building — turning 100 this year — and Cordero explains that the vibe is both modern and nostalgic. "I think it's my European looking for some history and oldness," she says. "It has a soul, it has energy." The name Xuntos — which means "together" in Galician — was born out of a post-pandemic desire to create a space for connection. "We're gonna bring back the roaring twenties," Cordero says with a laugh. "Abundance and celebrating... eat all night, drink all night... put those phones away and just engage."

But 2025 tested that vision. Strikes, fires and the closure of Pacific Coast Highway for four months hit the neighborhood hard. Cordero transformed Xuntos into a community hub, feeding up to 400 evacuees daily during the Palisades Fire. The neighborhood noticed. "We really have a lot of neighbors who keep coming back," she says. Cordero makes annual trips to Spain, drawing inspiration from restaurants such as Culler de Pau, the two-Michelin-star restaurant in Galicia known for its zero-mile philosophy and dishes that evoke the local landscape and sea. That sensibility — simple, local, deeply rooted — shows up on the Xuntos menu. Her vision remains simple: "We really want to be the neighborhood place."

Chef Elijah DeLeon, Rustic Canyon

At Rustic Canyon, Executive Chef Elijah DeLeon blends South Bay roots with Jalisco traditions and California's seasonal abundance.

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Courtesy Rustic Canyon

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Alex Scott

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Birria de res quesadillas from Chef Elijah DeLeon at Rustic Canyon, based on a recipe passed down from his Jalisco-born grandmother.

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Mike Hos

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Courtesy Rustic Canyon

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Elijah DeLeon grew up in Torrance, Carson and Gardena — an area he still calls "my favorite part of Los Angeles... it does not feel L.A." He began cooking at 18 and quickly became obsessed with the landmark cookbook On Vegetables by Jeremy Fox, former chef-owner of Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica. "That's my favorite cookbook," DeLeon says. "I was obsessed with his Instagram." He applied to its sister restaurant, Birdie G's, as a cook right before pandemic restrictions lifted, working his way up to junior sous chef and sous chef before joining Rustic Canyon six years ago. He's now the restaurant's executive chef, after Fox stepped down last year.

DeLeon draws deeply from his roots. The son of a mother from Jalisco and a Filipino father, he spoke Spanish at home. "I grew up very Mexican," he says. "My grandma would stay with us four or five months of the year... the music my mom would play, the traditions." Those traditions, along with years spent at the Torrance Farmers Market, would come to shape everything he puts on the plate.

That influence found its fullest expression in “Rustic Cantina,” a weekly Thursday event that began in September, where the entire menu became Mexican-inspired. The concept proved so popular that it became the restaurant's daily happy-hour menu, available every evening from 5 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. in the bar and lounge, and roughly 50 percent of the regular menu now consists of Mexican dishes. The Japanese sweet potato flautas have become a topseller, while the birria de res holds a special place. "My grandma, that's one of the first dishes she showed me how to make," he says. while chocoflan rounds it out — "the dessert I would love having on my birthday."

With cumbias blasting and birria now flowing every evening, Rustic Cantina has become proof that the best restaurants aren't just about the food — they're about the stories behind it.

Jyan Isaac Horwitz, Jyan Isaac Bread

At 25, Jyan Isaac Horwitz may be LA's youngest artisan baker — and one of its most prolific.

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Nick Smeshko

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Courtesy Jyan Isaac Bread

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Jyan Isaac Horwitz's breads include porridge loaf, marble rye and the city sourdough — "just flour, water and salt".

One of the youngest bakers in Los Angeles might just be the most prolific as well. At 25, Jyan Isaac Horwitz has taken the city by storm with his Westside bakery churning out deliciously whole-grain sourdough loaves.

Born and raised in Venice, Horwitz started baking in middle school — his mother is a pastry chef. After earning his GED, he got a job at Gjusta Bakery in Venice, the acclaimed artisanal bakery known for its house-made sourdough and ingredient-driven approach. It's where he got serious about the craft. "I owe a lot of it to my time at Gjusta," Horwitz says. "I learned a lot and I met a lot of people and had some mentorships."

When the pandemic hit in March 2020, Horwitz took a volunteer furlough from Gjusta. Plans to work at a bakery in Germany fell through, so he started baking sourdough loaves at home and selling them to neighbors. Word spread quickly, and Horwitz launched what he calls a "bread hustle" — baking 50 loaves a day and delivering them across the city with help from his family. His father had a lease on a shuttered pizza restaurant on Ocean Park Boulevard, so Horwitz started using that kitchen. Eventually, he scaled to 100 loaves a day, baking 20 at a time over five hours.

When the Los Angeles Times profiled him in July 2020, demand exploded. Horwitz had a months-long waitlist and lines down the street. That's when they invested in a proper bread oven and turned it into a real business. The growth has been gradual since then, transforming into what Horwitz calls "a neighborhood place with regulars."

Today, the menu at Jyan Isaac Bread spans bagels, baguettes, ciabatta, olive fougasse and bagel sandwiches with house-made gravlax. But Horwitz's heart belongs to the hearth loaves: the porridge loaf, made with a Three Sisters grain mix of rye, oat and barley flakes cooked into porridge with a toasted wheat germ crust; the marble rye with caraway seeds, "perfect for pastrami sandwiches", and the German-style crackle rye. Then there's the city sourdough — the purest expression of his philosophy. "It's so simple... just flour, water and salt," Horwitz says. "Through the process of fermentation, they turn into something that's much more complex." That flour — milled fresh in Skagit Valley, Washington, with all its nutrients intact — makes all the difference. "The flour makes everything for me because since it's so fresh, they keep all of the nutrients inside that get stripped for shelf life," he says. "I want to make a product that people seek out... that you can't just get at the grocery store."

At 25, he's likely the youngest baker in LA's artisan bread scene, constantly learning from other bakers while building his own legacy. The most rewarding part? "Making a product that I feel proud of... something I want more people to experience." That mission is expanding: a Silver Lake location is set to open in the coming months. "L.A. is so massive," Horwitz says. "So many different communities and neighborhoods that want and love good bread. I'm trying to fulfill some more of that need."

Los Angeles County District Attorney Nathan Hochman promised at a Tuesday night town hall that MacArthur Park will see “amazing progress” in public safety before the 2028 Olympic Games.

Several community members told LAist they have seen crime return to the Los Angeles park after months of joint drug enforcement operations by the Los Angeles Police Department and federal agencies. Those efforts led to dozens of arrests for alleged drug sales in the area.

An LAPD captain attending the town hall confirmed to LAist that the department is aware of renewed safety problems.

Hochman acknowledged those concerns and said the recent operations made progress and created an opportunity for lasting change.

“If we keep this focus and the energy on this area, MacArthur Park, Skid Row and everything in between,” Hochman said, “then we will see amazing progress before the Olympics, and that is actually a promise.”

Hochman previously promised, during a drug enforcement operation on June 4, to have a picnic at the park on Labor Day. Hochman told attendees he kept that promise when he held an event at the park on Sept. 5 with other local and federal law enforcement officials.

As district attorney, Hochman works with law enforcement agencies to prosecute criminal cases in L.A. County. He said that it will take more work from policymakers and community members to remove the open-air drug market that has been entrenched there for decades.

The area is represented by L.A. City Councilmember Eunisses Hernandez, County Supervisor Hilda Solis, state Assemblymember Mark González and state Sen. María Elena Durazo. Staff members from some of those offices, and the mayor’s office, sat in on the town hall organized by the local nonprofit California Rising.

“Feel free to put the fire under the feet of our politicians,” Hochman told about two dozen residents who attended. “All too often it is easy to spend some effort on something and then get distracted and spend some effort somewhere else.”

'Temporary' relief

Some residents and business owners agreed with Hochman that the large-scale drug enforcement operations from March through June made the area feel safer, at least for a while.

“It was temporary, but we got to see, actually, families at the bus stops with their kids — before it wasn't like that,” Elaine Alaniz told LAist Tuesday. “I think it does help us, but on the other hand I still think that we need more help. It's not just a one, two, three-day thing.”

Alaniz lives nearby and is the president of the Westlake North Neighborhood Council, which begins a block northeast of MacArthur Park.

She said she has seen some crime move away from the park and into the surrounding neighborhoods.

Capt. Ben Fernandes, who leads LAPD’s Rampart Division, said the earlier operations were successful, but there have been some setbacks.

“We made a lot of headway in the beginning,” he said. “There are some issues that we've had some repopulation, especially with addicts.”

Fernandes said that the department will continue to arrest people suspected of selling drugs near the park, while connecting people who are addicted with services to help them get sober and off the streets.

A call for community involvement

Hochman and Fernandes each emphasized that making MacArthur Park a safe and welcoming place can’t be done by law enforcement alone.

“My advice: take the park back — it's your park,” Hochman said at the town hall, calling for community organizations to plan regular outings there. “That starts to send a message that the community really cares about this park.”

He asked that performers like Justin Bieber, who played an impromptu set in the park last month, have more events there as well.

Fernandes said people can get involved to change perceptions about MacArthur Park so it's no longer thought of as a place to go to score drugs.

“What we need to do is — we as a community — come together and show [people using drugs] that it's not their place to go,” he said. “That you're going to be there with your children, with your parishioners, with your friends, with your family.”

Inglewood city officials are launching an audit of their financial relationship with SoFi Stadium and claiming the stadium could owe years of ticket taxes, one month after a judge voided the 2015 contract that brought the stadium to Inglewood. 

The Inglewood City Council voted unanimously Tuesday to commission the audit. Mayor James Butts said the move is a necessary next step after the court ruling, which threw the terms of the financial relationship between the city and Hollywood Park stadium development into question. 

Millions of dollars are at stake for both the city and the stadium businesses. City officials say that the ruling means a cap that limited the amount of admissions tax that Inglewood could collect no longer applies. They also plan to investigate the authenticity of $376 million worth of infrastructure bills Hollywood Park claims the city owes. The findings of the audit could also factor into discussions of how the city will address its current $30.8 million deficit.

The City Council motion — put forward by Butts and co-sponsored by Councilmember Dionne Faulk — requires the city attorney to retain an accounting firm to conduct the audit and report back to the public on its findings within 30 days. It set aside $325,000 from the city’s General Fund to pay for the audit. You can read the city’s full explanation of the audit here.

Butts, who was at the city’s helm a decade ago when developer Stan Kroenke brought his Hollywood Park pitch to Inglewood, said city officials built what they thought was a partnership with their stadium counterparts.

But that partnership has crumbled. Since last summer, the city and stadiums have been slugging it out in a complex series of court cases over the stadium’s contract and Inglewood’s network of video billboards. The conflict has spilled over into the Nov. 3 election via ballot measures that would change the city’s commercial advertising and ticket tax rules. 

The audit approved by the City Council on Tuesday will dig into the entire financial relationship between the stadium and city since 2015, unpacking what is owed and what was received from taxes on everything from tickets to parking. City officials plan to continue auditing the taxes on a quarterly basis into the future.

Still, it’s not guaranteed the city would be able to force the stadium development to pay any debt the audit does claim. Hollywood Park could still appeal the court ruling that voided its contract with Inglewood, while Butts said the city wants to negotiate a new contract to replace it. 

A Hollywood Park spokesperson said the stadium development has lived up to its financial obligations, including paying all of its taxes.

“This is yet another thinly veiled attempt to distract from scrutiny surrounding the City’s own fiscal mismanagement and the questionable actions of its Mayor,” the spokesperson wrote in a statement.

Some locals at Tuesday’s meeting said during public comments they were baffled why the city hadn’t set up an audit process earlier.

“We have needed an audit from day one. We can’t sit here and claim we didn’t know or have an inkling what we were doing with Hollywood Park,” Diane Sambrano said. 

Exterior of Sofi Stadium in Inglewood

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Gary Coronado

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The LA Local

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Speaking during the meeting, Butts said the audit was triggered because of the void left by the development agreement and because major events including the 2027 Super Bowl and 2028 Olympics are about to hit Inglewood.

The mayor first claimed the development agreement was illegal in a letter written directly to Stan Kroenke last year, saying the city’s lawyers made the determination while researching billboard litigation.

Millions in tax revenue at stake

After the judge ruled in agreement with the city, Butts told The LA Local that city officials were still researching the specific implications of the court’s ruling. In Tuesday’s council motion, city staff highlighted what they say is one major change they’ve discovered: There’s no longer a limit on how much admissions tax the city can collect.  

Inglewood collects a 10% tax on tickets sold at SoFi Stadium, but the 2015 initiative that brought the stadium to the city put a cap on that revenue, starting at $15 million a year and increasing annually with inflation. 

The admissions tax cap also happens to be the subject of the current ballot Measure AT. WOW Media, the billboard operator allied with the city in its dispute with the stadium, is funding a campaign in favor of the initiative.

Admissions tax has been a sizable revenue stream for the city — bringing in an average $20 million a year since SoFi Stadium opened — but city officials have said it could be significantly bigger. A city analysis of Measure AT estimated that getting rid of the cap could bring in as much as an extra $50 million in future years. The city did not estimate how much admissions tax revenue it has missed out on while the development agreement was in effect.

The Inglewood audit seeks to clarify basic questions about how taxes are assessed on ticket sales and whether those taxes are actually forwarded to the city. Officials say it will provide transparency about ticket sales, pricing and fees, which have been heavily scrutinized in recent years across the state. 

Gray gets support on proposal for future billboard revenue audit

Councilmember Gloria Gray attempted to amend the audit motion Tuesday, asking the city manager to also audit the revenue the city gets from billboard fees.

“I believe the same standard of financial transparency should apply to every city agreement,” Gray said.

Though her motion didn’t receive a second, Councilmember Eloy Morales said he’d support putting a billboard revenue audit on the council’s agenda in the future. 

“I think we all support all those audits,” Morales said. 

Gray’s move was a rarity for a council that seldom debates motions during public meetings and almost always votes unanimously. The councilmember is currently running for mayor against Butts.

Inglewood pulls in as much as $8 million a year from billboards, according to budget records. Much of that comes from a series of deals the city cut with WOW Media, allowing the billboard company to construct and operate the billboards on public medians and sidewalks. In return, WOW gives the city a cut of ad revenue along with other concessions.

The post Inglewood is investigating if SoFi Stadium owes years’ worth of ticket taxes appeared first on LA Local.