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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • Yes, it exists, and we know where you can find it
    A brown square open paper container holds fries covered with gravy and melted cheese. A few fries are being held up by a white plastic knife, allowing the melted cheese to form strings to the other fries below. On the other side of the container there's a white plastic fork. It's sitting on a varnished wooden counter.
    Gooey, cheesy poutine

    Topline: 

    An introduction to poutine, the crown jewel of working class Quebecois cuisine, that’s not easy to find in L.A. We went on a search from Long Beach to Highland Park to find authentic purveyors of the dish, describing what they’re doing right, and what they’re doing that’s new.

    Why it matters: L.A.’s food world overflows with cultural diversity, with authenticity as a touchstone of some of the most celebrated restaurants, chefs and dishes. Poutine is not on a lot of menus, but seeing it emerge on more and more points to how authentic global cuisines are always welcome additions to the greater food scene.

    Why now: With the opening of Wavy Gravy, Southern California now has multiple restaurants that could be described as “poutineries," even if they don’t call themselves that. Are they getting the basics right?

    Poutine is sadly not a common dish at the diners and burger joints of greater L.A. If you’re unfamiliar with this touchstone of Quebecois cuisine, the basic formula is a plate of french fries, chunky cheese curds and a thin brown gravy.

    The gravy should be hot enough to melt the curds so you get a gooey pull of cheese with every forkful of fry. Like the chili fries of L.A.’s classic burger stands, Poutine is best enjoyed by fork. Also, like chili fries, this messy dish can be an indulgent side to a burger or a meal in itself.

    A pair of hands holds a bowl full of brown fries and blobs of cheese that are shiny from being bathed in gravy. One of the hands is also sticking a fork into the bowl.
    A popular Quebec dish called Poutine, consisting of french fries, cheddar cheese and gravy.
    (
    David Boily
    /
    AFP via Getty Images
    )

    Since originating at diners in rural Quebec in the 1950s, poutine is now common throughout Canada. Menus at many poutineries often include embellished versions, supplemented with toppings or transformed by subbing the gravy for another rich, heavy sauce.

    (Montreal’s Au Pied de Cochon, an icon of Quebecois cuisine, famously serves a foie gras poutine that melts in your mouth and travels directly to your arteries.)

    Attending college in Montreal in the early 2000s, I probably had it once a week, sometimes as post-bar drunk food, but often as a part of a bigger lunch or dinner (RIP to my early 20s metabolism).

    Every burger place, kabob shop, deli, diner and pizzeria had at least a simple version of poutine. Even Canada’s McDonalds has a poutine that’s hard to resist. “Do you want to upgrade your fries to a Poutine?” [think about it for a 10th of a second] “Yes. Yes, I do!”

    For years, when people asked me if there was poutine in L.A., I would point them to Jay’s Bar, a comforting strip-mall gastropub in Silver Lake that nailed the main three elements of the dish. But when a friend recently texted me the same question, I realized that Jay’s menu had switched to Japanese bar food.

    So where else to go? To find out, I've bounced from Santa Clarita to Long Beach, assessing the viscosity of various gravies, testing the elasticity of melted curds, and determining which restaurants make the most delicious poutines in the region.

    Here’s what I found:

    The Kroft (Anaheim, Chinatown, Long Beach)

    A small, open white box houses brown gravy, curds and fries, adorned with pickled red onions, sauteed mushrooms on top of braised beef.
    The braised beef poutine from The Kroft in Chinatown.
    (
    Henry Goldman
    )

    Walking into the Kroft’s Chinatown outpost, nestled into one of the new apartment buildings at the Chinatown Gateway Monument, I was slightly skeptical. The counter-service restaurant, with outposts in L.A., Long Beach and Anaheim, had a sign in their window that announced they serve poutine. But then, in parentheses, the sign described poutine as “loaded fries.”

    Now, it’s true that poutine is similar to loaded fries — I would contend they might even be culinary cousins. But this description negates poutine’s identity as a category unto itself. It would be like a sign describing nachos as “chips and dip.” It undermines the dish’s power.

    However, once I took in the plethora of authentic-looking poutines on the menu, I relaxed a bit. Even though they sell burgers, this place could qualify as a poutinerie, a restaurant that makes poutine the star of their menu. In addition to a basic poutine, they serve some very appetizing variations, like a loco moco poutine with wagyu beef and fried eggs. And a country fried chicken poutine, which adds chicken nuggets and swaps out the brown gravy for a country sausage gravy.

    I was blown away by the braised beef poutine, which, in addition to brown gravy, curds and fries, adds pickled red onions, sautéed mushrooms and the titular braised beef to make an oozy carb bomb. The double-fried french fries are crisp enough to not immediately turn soupy when hit with the gravy, but the gravy is not so hot that it scalds your mouth. It is also rich, complex, and the braised beef blends perfectly with the overall dish. A strong contender.

    Locations and hours:

    Anaheim:
    440 S. Anaheim Blvd., Anaheim
    Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. - 9 a.m. Friday through Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

    Long Beach:
    The Hanger LBX, 4150 McGowan St., Unit 15, Long Beach
    Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 8:30 a.m., Friday through Saturday, 11 a.m.- 9 a.m.

    Chinatown:
    629 N. Broadway, Los Angeles
    Monday through Wednesday, 11:30 a.m. - 9 p.m. Thursday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. - 10 p.m., Sunday, 11:30 a.m - 9:30 a.m.

    Sideburns, Long Beach 

    Two pictures side by side. Left: A container of poutine — fries, cheese and gravy — with a fork stuck in it sits on a table. Right: The entrance to a place called "Sideburns," as noted from a sign above the doorway in thick, yellow script.
    (
    Henry Goldman
    )

    During the pandemic, The Stache Bar, the platonic ideal of a neighborhood dive located near downtown Long Beach, opened up Sideburns in the space next door. It’s a humble counter-service burger joint, with a menu that lends itself to food that works well before the bar, after the bar and during the bar.

    Sideburns has a lot of mouthwatering offerings, including a classic poutine. (They also have a “poutine burger,” which is exactly what it sounds like, a burger with poutine on it, which I will have to try for another article).

    We initially ordered in the restaurant, but realized we could eat at the bar, so made the trek next door to eat our food with a cold beer. Nothing makes me feel quite like a grown-up then walking into a dark dive on an excessively bright day.

    After a short wait, the bartender dropped a tremendous classic poutine on the bar. Size-wise, it’s closer to a side poutine than a meal. I suspect that's because if the bar was serving full plates of poutine, they would immediately put their customers to sleep. The poutine itself hits all the important notes: a brown gravy that lingers on the tongue, thick curds that melt nicely, and crisp, kennebec fries. After cleaning the paper tray the poutine came in, I was envious of the locals who get to call this lovely dive their neighborhood watering hole.

    Location: 941 East 4th St., Long Beach

    Hours: 11 a.m. - 12 a.m. (every day)

    Wavy Gravy, Highland Park  

    Two photos side by side, both displaying versions of poutine, which consists of fries, cheese and gravy.
    Poutine from Wavy Gravy in Highland Park.
    (
    Henry Goldman
    )

    A newish, gravy-forward restaurant in Highland Park, Wavy Gravy has enough varieties of poutine on the menu that it could reasonably be called a poutinerie — if that term meant anything to Southern California restaurant-goers.

    However, they also serve plenty of burgers, sandwiches and all-day breakfast items, so their framing as a “diner” also fits. The counter service restaurant on York has a retro aesthetic, a comfortable vibe and I suspect some Canadian roots. There was a stack of Nanaimo bars (a chocolatey cookie bar originally from British Columbia), in a display case next to a small Canadian flag. They also know their poutine.

    Of the L.A. County poutines I tried, I think Wavy Gravy has my favorite gravy, which is a happy development for a restaurant with “gravy” in its name. It was rich and decadent and was also the perfect temperature to melt the square-ish curds on the poutine. The fries were also perfectly fried — initially crispy but soft enough inside to melt in your mouth a few moments after biting into them.

    After trying the basic poutine, I came back for their taco poutine with grilled chicken. I was curious to discover how it incorporated Mexican flavors into this decidedly Quebecois dish. The answer? Not very well. Nonetheless, the poutine was delicious, but it would have been better called a “marinated chicken poutine” rather than a “taco poutine”. That’s all to say, I still heartily recommend Wavy Gravy as one of the finest purveyors of poutine I’ve found in Southern California. I look forward to returning and trying more of the varieties on the menu.

    Location: 5805 York Blvd., Highland Park

    Hours: Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, 9:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. - 9 p.m.
    Saturday, 9 a.m. - 9 p.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m. - 8 p.m.

    I’m definitely hoping that these and other restaurants will create a new generation of poutine aficionados in and around L.A., and will push chefs to try new iterations on a classic dish. But even if it remains niche and only on a few menus, I'll still return to these recommended spots, hoping for that perfect, gravy-soaked cheese-pull.

  • You asked us: Why are they there?
    A return envelope has a visible hole at top left. Envelope is addressed to the Registrar-Recorder/County Clerk
    An official ballot envelope for the 2026 primary election in Los Angeles.

    Topline:

    Have you noticed that the envelope for your mail-in ballot has holes in it? It turns out they have two functions (neither of which includes being able to see your votes inside).

    Accessibility: The two holes beside the signature line are there to help visually impaired people so they can sign their envelopes in private before submitting their ballot.

    Counting confirmation: They also help election officials confirm that the envelopes are empty when they’re processing the ballots to be counted.\

    When you sit down to fill out your mail-in ballot for the June 2 primary election (we have a guide for that, have you heard?), you may notice something curious on your ballot envelope.

    There are holes in it. Two small holes next to the signature line, and one on the other side.

    What’s the deal?

    This is a question an LAist reader asked our Voter Game Plan team:

    “Does the hole in the mail-in ballot have a specific see-through function?”

    It turns out the envelope holes have two functions. For one, the holes next to the signature line are supposed to help visually impaired people find the signature line so that they can sign their ballot in private before submitting it.

    And two: When election workers start processing the ballots to be counted, the holes help them confirm that the envelopes don’t still have ballots left inside.

    These holes have been part of the envelope design for many election cycles now — according to the L.A. County registrar’s office, they were included based on a recommendation from the nonprofit Center for Civic Design.

    Rest assured, they are not meant for anybody to be able to see your votes inside. Even if you try to make your vote visible, the holes just don’t line up.

    Don’t forget to check out our Voter Game Plan guides while you’re filling out your ballot.

    What questions do you have about this election?
    You ask, and we'll answer: Whether it's about how to interpret the results or track your ballot, we're here to help you understand the 2024 general election on Nov. 5.

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  • Katy Perry, Lisa will headline SoFi bash
    A large stadium is seen from across Lake Park in Inglewood, a sign that says "SoFi Stadium" can be seen in front of the stadium.
    SoFi Stadium will be home to FIFA World Cup 2026 games this summer.

    Topline:

    Katy Perry, Future, Blackpink's Lisa and other artists will headline the FIFA World Cup opening ceremony at SoFi Stadium on June 12 — one of three happening across North America.

    The selection: The lineup just announced "reflects the cultural diversity of the United States and the vibrancy of its many diasporas," FIFA President Gianni Infantino said in a statement.

    Why it matters: It's the first time the global competition will hold three opening ceremonies across multiple countries. Mexico City hosts one on June 11 and Toronto hosts another on June 12.

    What's next: Los Angeles will host eight games. The first match will take place on June 12 between the U.S. men’s national team and Paraguay. The opening ceremony will begin at 4:30 p.m., 90 minutes before kickoff.

    Tickets are available now through FIFA and will continue to be released throughout the tournament.

    Go deeper: Watch FIFA’s World Cup games with your fellow Angelenos across LA County

  • Record amount for breaking privacy law
    a parking lot full of chevrolet cars
    A Chevrolet Bolt EV sits parked in the sales lot at Stewart Chevrolet in Colma on April 25, 2023.

    Topline:

    General Motors agreed to pay $12.75 million in civil penalties for selling driving data of hundreds of thousands of California motorists to data brokers, allegedly without their consent.

    Background: It stemmed from an investigation by California Attorney General Rob Bonta, several county district attorneys, and the California Privacy Protection Agency, which enforces the privacy act. They said General Motors misled drivers who paid for the emergency roadside and navigation service OnStar and made approximately $20 million from the unlawful sale of their data between 2020 and 2024. The information included names, location information, driving behavior, and contact information, Bonta said, which went to the data brokers LexisNexis Risk Solutions and Verisk Analytics.

    Read on ... for more on GM's actions and the penalty.

    General Motors agreed to pay $12.75 million in civil penalties for selling driving data of hundreds of thousands of California motorists to data brokers, allegedly without their consent.

    The settlement, announced Friday, is the largest ever for violations of the California Consumer Privacy Act, a 2018 law that requires companies to tell consumers about how their data is shared and to respect requests to stop the sharing.

    It stemmed from an investigation by California Attorney General Rob Bonta, several county district attorneys, and the California Privacy Protection Agency, which enforces the privacy act. They said General Motors misled drivers who paid for the emergency roadside and navigation service OnStar and made approximately $20 million from the unlawful sale of their data between 2020 and 2024. The information included names, location information, driving behavior, and contact information, Bonta said, which went to the data brokers LexisNexis Risk Solutions and Verisk Analytics.

    “This trove of information included precise and personal location data that could identify the everyday habits and movements of Californians,” Bonta said in a press release.

    The settlement also requires GM to stop selling data to any consumer reporting agencies for five years and submit privacy assessments to the state, among other provisions. It followed a similar agreement between the Federal Trade Commission and GM earlier this year and California settlements with Honda and Ford over the past 14 months for their own violations of the privacy act.

    California’s investigation of GM began after a 2024 New York Times investigation found GM collected data about millions of drivers nationwide and sold it to insurance companies in order to charge the drivers higher premiums. Californians were not impacted by those premium hikes because a state law prohibits insurers from using driving data to set insurance rates, Bonta said.

    Bonta told CalMatters at a press conference Friday that it’s unclear if location data collected by General Motors was used by other companies to make predictions about the prices people are willing to pay for goods. That practice is better known as surveillance pricing and can leverage location data. Target paid $5 million to settle a suit from San Diego County’s district attorney over its alleged use of location for the technique. Bonta’s office began an investigation into the surveillance pricing practices of businesses in January.

    “I understand that there could be some overlap and maybe we'll discover something in our investigation in surveillance pricing, but that wasn't the focus of this case,” he said.

    Los Angeles District Attorney Nathan Hochman said the case started with one person finding location data in a report they requested about the data collected on them. That discovery, he added, led to investigations by journalists, prosecutors, and regulators.

    “This case shows more than anything that one consumer can make a huge difference,” he said.

    Though the settlement isn’t much compared to the $2.7 billion in net income that General Motors made last year, Hochman called it an indication that companies should expect higher penalties in the future. California reached a privacy law violation settlement with Disney in February for $2.75 million, previously the largest of its kind.

    In a statement shared with CalMatters, General Motors spokesperson Charlotte McCoy said, “This agreement addresses Smart Driver, a product we discontinued in 2024, and reinforces steps we’ve taken to strengthen our privacy practices. Vehicle connectivity is central to a modern and safe driving experience, which is why we’re committed to being clear and transparent with our customers about our practices and the choices and control they have over their information.”

    Californians will soon have a new protection against companies that use their data without their consent. Starting August 1, the more than 500 data brokers registered with the state must comply with requests California residents can make using an online tool known as the Delete Request and Opt-out Platform, or DROP. The privacy protection agency introduced the tool earlier this year.

    This article was originally published on CalMatters and was republished under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives license.

  • No plans to reopen to the public
    two people pulling suitcases walk on the sidewalk by a chain-link fence with a lot of green trees around
    Pedestrians walk along Wilshire Boulevard adjacent to RFK Community Park in Koreatown that is currently fenced in April 22 in Los Angeles

    Topline:

    The Los Angeles Unified School District fenced off RFK Inspiration Park, located on Wilshire Boulevard. Nearly a year later, the district is considering reopening the space, but only to students at the adjacent RFK Community Schools.

    Why now? Enrique Legaspi, assistant principal at RFK Community Schools, said the school and the district are discussing using the park again, including for classes and student activities. LAUSD confirmed that school leaders have expressed strong interest in using the space for outdoor learning, art programs and student wellness activities.

    Background: For years, the city’s Department of Recreation and Parks operated and maintained the park under an agreement with the school district dating back to 2010. At the time, the public was allowed to use the space. Last March, the department stepped away. By then, it had already been taking on costs outside what the 2010 agreement required.

    Read on ... for more on the battle over the park.

    For nearly a year, people walking down Wilshire Boulevard in Koreatown have passed a small patch of what used to be one of the few public park spaces in the neighborhood. It’s now locked behind a tall chain link fence.

    Inside, the grass is overgrown and trash is piled up along the edges. The memorial to Sen. Robert F. Kennedy — built at the site where he was assassinated in 1968 at the Ambassador Hotel — has fallen into disrepair.

    The Los Angeles Unified School District fenced off RFK Inspiration Park, located on Wilshire Boulevard. Nearly a year later, the district is considering reopening the space, but only to students at the adjacent RFK Community Schools.

    That’s frustrating for some neighbors, who say the park used to belong to everyone.

    “I remember the park being open and suddenly a few months after, it was gated,” said Vanessa Aikens, who lives a few blocks away. “I was just wondering why they gated the area because there seemed to be a lot of people interacting with it.”

    There has been little information relayed to the community about why.

    “We have a number of our members who live right around there and so there’s an angle of access to green space, the access to a safe space for our homeless neighbors,” said Yuval Yossefy, treasurer of Ktown for All, an all-volunteer grassroots organization serving Koreatown’s unhoused community. “This went basically unnoticed.”

    Enrique Legaspi, assistant principal at RFK Community Schools, said the school and the district are discussing using the park again, including for classes and student activities. LAUSD confirmed that school leaders have expressed strong interest in using the space for outdoor learning, art programs and student wellness activities.

    Officials plan to involve the school community and nearby residents as plans take shape, but they have not given a timeline or said whether the park will reopen to the public.

    Koreatown lacks parks

    For years, the city’s Department of Recreation and Parks operated and maintained the park under an agreement with the school district dating back to 2010. At the time, the public was allowed to use the space.

    Last March, the department stepped away. By then, it had already been taking on costs outside what the 2010 agreement required.

    “RAP communicated uncertainty about its ability to sustain long-term maintenance due to staffing and funding constraints,” said Deirdra Boykin, a department spokesperson.

    For people who live nearby, the loss of the park has been simple and immediate: there’s nowhere else like it.

    “There are no parks around where I live,” Aikens said. “Now I just walk straight down the street.”

    In a neighborhood with such limited park space, the memorial park went relatively unnoticed.

    “There definitely isn’t enough green space here,” said Emere Alademir, 23, who lives nearby. “I’m originally from Toronto and everywhere they have green space.”

    People who never used the park say they would visit if it reopened.

    “I’ve never actually gone in but I would be open to coming here if it reopens,” said Wendy Kim, 70, who has lived in the neighborhood for 40 years. “Why not? It’s good for everyone.”

    Kim, who splits her time between LA and Seoul, said the parks in Seoul are much better maintained than the ones in LA, and that when she craves nature, she travels out of the city for a hike.

    “But every place is different and here, the homeless issue is out of hand. That’s just the reality,” she said.

    The fence goes up

    Public records obtained by Yossefy and reviewed by The LA Local show that city and LAUSD officials coordinated the park’s handoff around a May 22 encampment removal and cleanup, after which LAUSD took control of the site and moved forward with fencing it off. The emails do not explicitly state that the park was fenced because unhoused people were there, but they show encampment removal was a central part of the transition plan.

    Volunteers with Ktown For All, who do weekly outreach to the unhoused community in the area, said they were used to seeing people at the park every Saturday.

    “It’s just like all of a sudden the fence was there,” said Nicolas Emmons, who has been doing outreach near RFK since around 2021.

    Emmons and others said that while some unhoused residents stayed in the park, the majority of the park was open and available.

    “At its peak, it was only a small percentage of the park that was being used by people to live in,” he said. “Some of the people that lived there even took it upon themselves to clean the area around their setup.”

    Eunice Jeon, another volunteer with the organization, said they had built relationships with people there over several years.

    “We regularly saw people there and had built relationships with people there,” she said. “They respected and treated the park well.”

    Jeon added that despite restricting access, the closure has not visibly improved the space.

    “If anything I would say the park is in worse state ever since the fence has gone up despite nobody being in there,” she said.

    Jeon said many individuals she encountered were navigating complex barriers to housing and services, often caught in bureaucratic loops that made it difficult to access help.

    “A lot of the time they’re limited by transportation. Some services don’t allow certain things. They need an address, but in order to get something mailed, they need their driver’s license, which they don’t have because they don’t have an address,” she said.

    In email chains included in the public records, officials also discussed installing permanent wrought iron fencing at the site. When asked if that remains the plan, LAUSD said the project is still in the “planning phase” and that details, including potential site features, have not been finalized.

    “If the park is fenced off, nobody can access it. It doesn’t provide you any use,” Yoseffy said. “There are a number of people that can’t access this park, whether they were sleeping in this park, or they used the park to exercise, if they liked to sit and read — none of those things can happen there anymore because it’s completely closed off.”

    Public records show little evidence of public notice. One email mentions posting notices at the park ahead of the cleanup, but there was no formal announcement made to residents that the park — which had been open to the public for years — would be closed and no longer accessible.

    “I think that a public space is meant to be used by the public, including the unhoused,” Jeon said. “That’s something they need to address instead of locking up the parks. That’s a failure of the city. Kicking them out won’t keep anyone safer if they have fewer and fewer places to go.”

    LA Local reporter Marina Peña contributed to this report.