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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • Top 5 Oaxacan tortas in LA, ranked
    A close up on a torta with beans, cheese, and avacado.
    A Oaxacan torta from Tlayuda Restaurant in East Hollywood.

    Topline:

    From a 26-year-old family legacy in Pasadena to the vibrant stalls of South LA, these are the city’s most essential Oaxacan tortas.

    Why it matters: Oaxacan cuisine is often defined by two pillars: mole and quesillo. They anchor dishes like tlayudas, memelas, tetelas and tamales, and their flavors travel well — you can find versions of them across Los Angeles and many parts of the world. But one of Oaxaca’s most satisfying street foods rarely gets the same spotlight — the torta Oaxaqueña — messy, crunchy and loaded with individually transformed ingredients.

    About the Oaxacan torta: Unlike other regional tortas that use either freshly baked bollillo or birote saladao, the Oaxacan variety always features a flat toasted telera roll. It also always has plenty of melted quesillo and refried black bean paste. Then it’s loaded with strips of cecina enchilada (marinated pork), fried Oaxacan chorizo or tasajo (thinly sliced beef).

    Read on... for the top 5 Oaxacan tortas in L.A.

    This story was originally published by The LA Local on Feb. 26, 2026.

    Oaxacan cuisine is often defined by two pillars: mole and quesillo. They anchor dishes like tlayudas, memelas, tetelas and tamales, and their flavors travel well — you can find versions of them across Los Angeles and many parts of the world.

    But one of Oaxaca’s most satisfying street foods rarely gets the same spotlight — the torta Oaxaqueña — messy, crunchy and loaded with individually transformed ingredients.

    Unlike other regional tortas that use either freshly baked bollillo or birote saladao, the Oaxacan variety always features a flat toasted telera roll. It also always has plenty of melted quesillo and refried black bean paste. Then it’s loaded with strips of cecina enchilada (marinated pork), fried Oaxacan chorizo or tasajo (thinly sliced beef).

    A chalkboard with text and illustrations drawn on it, including one of a torta on a plate. Text written on the board includes "Tortas Mexico. Pasadena."
    A chalkboard decorated with bright flowers and a drawing of a torta greets customers at Tortas Mexico in Pasadena.
    (
    Cristabell Fierros
    /
    The LA Local
    )

    In Old Town Pasadena, Tortas Mexico has served Mexican and Oaxacan dishes for 26 years. The family-owned restaurant, operated by the Ramos family, is open seven days a week and offers a menu ranging from breakfast burritos and chilaquiles to birria tacos and enchiladas.

    At the entrance, a chalkboard decorated with bright flowers and a drawing of a torta greets customers with the phrase “Hecho con amor y tradición” — made with love and tradition.

    “The start of this restaurant business came from an idea by my cousin Francisco, his wife Patricia and my Aunt Macuca,” said Esteban Ramos, who later purchased the location with his wife Blanca.

    A man and a woman, both with medium skin tone, pose for a photo outside a restaurant next to a chalkboard with writing and illustrations on it.
    Esteban and Blanca Ramos outside their Pasadena eatery Tortas Mexico.
    (
    Cristabell Fierros
    /
    The LA Local
    )

    Inside, the space is modest and warm, decorated with artisanal Mexican décor. Above the counter, a sprawling menu lists dozens of options. In the kitchen, at least three cooks work the grill, including Blanca Ramos.

    “The recipes primarily stem from my husband’s side of the family, specifically his Tía Macuca,” Ramos said. “She inspired the majority of the menu.”

    In recent months, Tortas Mexico has attracted new customers through Instagram and TikTok videos, thanks to Esteban’s son, Neftali Ramos, who runs the restaurant’s social media.

    “I want to continue building a spot where you know you’re getting real, authentic Mexican food — that tastes like your mom or your grandma made it,” he said.

    Across Los Angeles, other Oaxacan kitchens are crafting their own versions of the regional specialty.

    Here are the best Oaxacan tortas in Los Angeles ranked.

    No. 5 Tlayuda Restaurant

    A close up of a torta cut in half with vegetables and meat spilling outside of it on yellow deli paper on a floral painted table.
    A Oaxacan torta from El Valle Oaxaqueño in Pico-Union. They also have a second location in South LA.
    (
    Cristabell Fierros
    /
    The LA Local
    )

    Best known for its heart-shaped tlayudas, Tlayuda Restaurant in East Hollywood also turns out a satisfying torta Oaxaqueña. A soft bolillo holds refried black beans, mayonnaise, melted quesillo, avocado, diced chorizo and thin-sliced beef — a balanced, filling torta without any unnecessary flash.

    East Hollywood
    5450 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles 

    No. 4 El Valle Oaxaqueño

    A close up of a torta with meat, beans, and avocado, cut in half, next to a side of fries.
    A Oaxacan torta.
    (
    Cristabell Fierros
    /
    The LA Local
    )

    Part bakery, part market and restaurant, El Valle Oaxaqueño presses its house-baked telera rolls on a flat iron for extra crunch. The carne asada torta melts into layers of mayonnaise, black beans and quesillo. Other options include salchicha roja Oaxaqueña and chile relleno for vegetarians.

    Pico-Union
    1601 Vermont Ave., Suite 106, Los Angeles

    South LA
    2318 W Jefferson Blvd LA,CA 90018

    No. 3 Los Compadres de Oaxaca

    A torta with a lot of vegetables and cheese, next to an iced coffee drink with a sticker that reads "OaxacaCali."
    A Oaxacan torta from Oaxacali in South Central.
    (
    Cristabell Fierros
    /
    The LA Local
    )

    One of the newer Oaxacan additions to LA, Los Compadres De Oaxaca opened in 2025 and isn’t afraid to lean bold. Its torta Oaxaqueña arrives on a toasted bolillo stuffed with chorizo and carne asada, refried black beans, mayo, lettuce, tomato, onion, avocado and fresh quesillo. Fries and tortilla chips with house-made mole come on the side.

    Chinatown
    640 N. Broadway, Suite 6, Los Angeles 

    No. 2 Oaxacalifornia

    A South LA institution for more than two decades, Oaxacalifornia blends Oaxacan flavors with Southern California influence. The vegetarian torta Oaxaqueña is the way to go here — crisp telera bread layered with refried black beans, mayonnaise, avocado, tomatoes and lightly salted quesillo. It comes with nopalito salad and smoky red salsa for extra depth.

    Historic South Central
    3655 S. Grand Ave., Unit C8, Los Angeles

    No. 1 Tortas Mexico

    At Tortas Mexico, their Oaxaqueña begins on a flat-top grill, where a sliced telera roll toasts while strips of cecina enchilada sizzle beside it. The paired grilling adds a rich flavor to the telera roll. That richness is enhanced by every ingredient. The bean paste adds texture that compliments the crunchy bread, followed by the gooey quesillo and the perfectly charred meat.

    At the prep station, mayonnaise is spread on the top half of the roll. Lettuce, tomatoes, avocado, white onions and jalapeños follow. The torta is pressed together — warm, heavy, built to drip.

    San Gabriel Valley
    48 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena 

  • Host cities plan for safety of attendees

    Topline:

    Millions of people are about to pack stadiums across the U.S., Canada and Mexico for the World Cup, starting June 11. Public health officials have been working to ensure the health and safety of the masses of fans they're expecting at the 104 matches across 16 cities through mid-July.


    L.A. Co Health Department prepares: In Los Angeles, which is hosting eight games, risk-assessment teams will monitor the surroundings for chemical exposures and biological threats. In L.A., diminished federal assistance means the health department is counting on existing staff to do the extra work. "Most of our staff are not taking vacations during the month of the World Cup because they'll need to work -– we'll be obviously accruing overtime costs," says Barbara Ferrer, the L.A. county health director.

    Diminished federal presence: Ferrer hopes these events will help authorities see that public health is key to public safety — and worth investing in. On the federal level, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, which serves as the nation's public health agency, has a muted presence this year. The current Trump administration has pushed thousands of workers out of the CDC workforce and tampered politically with some of its functions. Other governmental groups that would typically be involved, such as the National Security Council's biosecurity group, the Office of Pandemic Preparedness and Response Policy, and the Assistant Secretary for Preparedness and Response, have been disbanded, left vacant or don't have permanent .

    Millions of people are about to pack stadiums across the U.S., Canada and Mexico for the World Cup, starting June 11.

    Public health officials have been working to ensure the health and safety of the masses of fans they're expecting at the 104 matches across 16 cities through mid-July.

    In the U.S., World Cup preparations are coming in a time of a diminished federal health presence and funding. It's upped the workload for host city health departments, as they're also strapped for federal funding.

    Nevertheless, World Cup host city health officials say they're prepared for the many challenges that come with large-scale celebrations and gatherings.

    "We've been focusing on expecting the expected" — issues related to weather, health and human behavior, says Dr. Marcus Plescia, district health director for Fulton County, Georgia, which includes Atlanta.

    Planning for the event is ongoing, says Dr. Philip Huang, director of Dallas County Health and Human Services in Texas. "To be able to begin preparations a year out is a luxury for us, compared to a lot of the situations that we deal with," he says.

    "We call Atlanta 'Hotlanta' for a reason"

    For public health departments, the World Cup is a big deal –- but they're well prepared for the biggest challenges.

    Summer heat, for instance. "We call Atlanta 'Hotlanta' for a reason," says Georgia's Dr. Plescia, "It's going to be hot and humid here -– so heat-related injuries are going to be an issue."

    Atlanta is hosting eight World Cup matches and the team from Uzbekistan. At downtown Centennial Olympic Park, a month-long fan festival is expected to draw some 15,000 people a day. Cooling stations will offer air-conditioning and hydration.

    Then there's feeding the crowds. "The biggest lift for us and for all health departments is that our environmental health workers have to inspect all of the food vendors — and there will be a whole lot of food vendors," Plescia says.

    Inspectors will check every day to ensure the facilities are in working order and the food is safe to eat. "We want to make sure that people feel confident that they can go out to eat and have a good time –- and they don't have to worry about getting food poisoning," Plescia says.

    When lots of people gather, germs tend to spread. "We're worried about sexually transmitted infections because there's going to be a lot of people here and it's going to be a festive atmosphere," Plescia says. "And then we're worried about things maybe we wouldn't have been worried about as much before, particularly measles." Measles is highly contagious among those who haven't been vaccinated, and there have been 30 U.S. outbreaks this year.

    Dallas is hosting nine World Cup matches — the most of any city. The health department is stepping up disease surveillance in wastewater, expanding sites and covering more area, says Dr. Huang, the county health authority. Beyond looking for typical threats like influenza and COVID, they're also testing for "whatever might appear" through genomic sequencing, he says.

    They're also broadening mosquito surveillance –- setting insect traps and testing for pathogens they can spread. "We always test for West Nile virus," Huang says, "But we're also increasing our testing for dengue, chikungunya and Zika because of all the [incoming] international travel."

    Medical staff are also looking out for symptoms of Ebola or hantavirus, due to outbreaks.

    Keeping track of which diseases are circulating means they'll be able to alert hospitals and the public quickly if they see a spike. "It's a lot of things we normally do but certainly more enhanced," Huang says.

    They're also preparing health tips for the public in different languages: Wear a hat and sunscreen and hydrate when it's hot out. Bug spray and long sleeves help prevent mosquito bites. Stay home if you're sick. "It's the same messages [we always share], but it's really concentrated because we've got so many people coming during a hot period of time in Dallas," Huang says.

    "Most of our staff are not taking vacations"

    The World Cup finals are jointly hosted by New York and New Jersey on July 19.

    Officials have been running practice simulations to prepare for outbreaks and mass casualty events. "We plan for the worst case scenario and go through it before it actually happens," says Dr. Alister Martin, New York City's health commissioner.

    They've also set up "incident command" to "divert resources from normal stuff so that we can manage any potential emergencies," Martin says, adding that the operation will continue through much of the summer, for other big events planned in New York, including America's 250th anniversary, Pride month and the Puerto Rican Day parade.

    In Los Angeles, which is hosting eight games, including the U.S. opening match versus Paraguay, risk-assessment teams will monitor the surroundings for chemical exposures and biological threats.

    In L.A., diminished federal assistance means the health department is counting on existing staff to do the extra work. "Most of our staff are not taking vacations during the month of the World Cup because they'll need to work -– we'll be obviously accruing overtime costs," says Barbara Ferrer, the L.A. county health director.

    And much of their regular work, like routine food inspections, gets put aside. "I know it would be easier if we weren't in a resource constrained environment," Ferrer says. "But I want to provide assurance that even in a resource constrained environment, we're well prepared."

    Ferrer says they've successfully planned and managed other events of national significance, like the 2022 Super Bowl. "This work isn't new to us," she says, adding that staff are making great efforts "to make sure this is a joyous time in L.A. county and [that] we're all safe."

    This year's experience will better prepare Los Angeles to host other events, she says — like the 2027 Super Bowl and the 2028 Summer Olympics.

    Ferrer hopes these events will help authorities see that public health is key to public safety — and worth investing in.

    Less of a federal presence

    On the federal level, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, which serves as the nation's public health agency, has a muted presence this year.

    "Usually, the CDC is a visible lead when we have international events in the United States, particularly across the country, versus just in a single state," says Dr. Debra Houry, former chief medical officer for the CDC who resigned last year.

    The current Trump administration has pushed thousands of workers out of the CDC workforce and tampered politically with some of its functions, such as setting vaccine policy and publishing scientific papers. The agency's scientists rarely speak directly with the public anymore; their messages are filtered through politically appointed leadership.

    Other governmental groups that would typically be involved, such as the National Security Council's biosecurity group, the Office of Pandemic Preparedness and Response Policy, and the Assistant Secretary for Preparedness and Response, have been disbanded, left vacant or don't have permanent leaders, Houry says.

    The diminished federal presence serves as the backdrop for the World Cup.

    Emily Hilliard, press secretary for the Department of Health and Human Services which oversees the CDC and ASPR, wrote in an email response to NPR: "HHS and the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) are actively coordinating with state, local, and global partners to ensure public health and safety during FIFA World Cup 2026 and enhance any measures, as needed."

    Localities have found that the federal presence is late in coming, and not as coordinated as it may have been in the past, says Lori Freeman, CEO for the National Association of County and City Health Officials, which represents health departments.

    Freeman says the CDC started holding coordination calls and issuing some guidance a few months ago –- long after host cities started their own preparations. She notes: "When it comes to merging public health, emergency response and preparedness, that is an area we worry constantly about because the federal government is the agency that must manage across state jurisdictions between and among states."

    Some have stepped up to fill perceived gaps. For instance, Georgetown University has set up a Health Security Operations Center to track infectious diseases and send out daily reports, to inform places expecting an influx of travelers throughout the World Cup.
    Copyright 2026 NPR

  • Sponsored message
  • Irish cuisine, soccer and top-tier Guinness
    Photo of a a pub's bar, sitting on it is a Irish coffee and and Irish breakfast.
    O'Brien's Irish Pub's menu includes a full Irish breakfast and an Irish coffee.

    Top line:

    If you’re looking a great place to watch the upcoming World Cup on the Westside of L.A. — particularly if you can’t break the bank for a ticket — there’s O’Brien’s Irish Pub in Santa Monica. The owner sat down with Larry Mantle, host of AirTalk, to discuss sports, authentic Irish cuisine and quality Guinness.

    What you'll find at the Irish pub:

    1. Most notably, an Irish coffee. The alcoholic drink contains coffee and Irish whisky and is topped off with cream.
    2. Quality Guinness. The pub keeps a short beer tap line — meaning it goes from keg to glass quickly — and cleans the tap line every two weeks.
    3. Potato skins, banger sandwich and full Irish breakfast

    The ultimate O'Brien's experience: St. Patrick's Day, obviously. Otherwise, any day when you can sit down for the full Irish breakfast and coffee.

    If you’re looking for a great place to watch the upcoming World Cup on L.A.'s Westside — particularly if you can’t break the bank for a ticket — there’s O’Brien’s Irish Pub in Santa Monica.

    Owner Willy O'Sullivan sat down with Larry Mantle, host of AirTalk, to discuss how the pub has managed to maintain its customer base, while others — like Brennan's and Britannia Pub — have had to close their doors. He says it all comes down to partnerships with local sports fans, trivia nights and maintaining their authentic Irish pub food and brews.

    About the owner

    A native of Cork City, the second-largest city in Ireland, O'Sullivan arrived stateside in 1987. He opened the pub in 1994, and as interest in soccer has grown, he's built a community around European football matches, especially after subsequent World Cups. Along the road, he's also built a following for New York sports teams.

    The ultimate O'Brien's experience

    St. Patrick's Day, obviously.

    But ... any other day he'd recommend coming in for the Irish breakfast with a coffee in hand or "the best Guinness in Southern California," in his words.

    How he ensures quality Guinness

    Because Guinness is the pub's signature drink, he's made sure to give it a short beer tap line, meaning it goes from keg to glass quickly. He also makes sure to clean the tap line every two weeks to ensure quality.

    Restaurant details

    • O’Brien’s has Irish pub classics, including fish & chips, corned beef and cabbage, and a full Irish breakfast.
    • It’s best known for hosting the local Manchester United F.C. fan club known as Los Angeles Red Army.
    • Its also hosts groups for Leeds United and the New York Giants.

    Menu items we tried

    • Potato skins (potatoes, cheddar and bacon)
    • Banger sandwich (two English sausages, sautéed onions and mixed greens)
    • Irish breakfast (two eggs, two Irish sausages, Irish bacon, beans, mushrooms, tomato, black and white pudding)

    How to visit

    • Address: 2226 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica
    • Hours: Monday-Wednesday 11:30 a.m.- 12:30 a.m.; Thursday-Friday 11:30 a.m.- 2:30 a.m.; Saturday opening varies, closes at 1:30 a.m.; Sunday opening varies, closes at 2:00 a.m.
    • Cost: Potato skins cost $18; banger sandwich costs $19; and the Irish breakfast costs $23.

    What should we try next?

    Have a question or comment about a segment? Want to pitch us a story?

    Fill out the form below, and please include an email address so we're able to follow up if necessary! We're not able to respond to every inquiry, but all submissions are read and reviewed by our production team.

  • A guide to tournament restrictions, resources
    A poster hangs on a metal column "FIFA World Cup 2026".
    Workers hang a banner at SoFi Stadium on May 27, 2026, in Inglewood.

    Topline:

    The World Cup launches soon in Los Angeles during tumultuous times. This all means there could be protests at the stadium or various fan events. And even if demonstrations don't materialize, there are plenty of questions about what's happening with the tournament and what's allowed in the stadium and fan zones.

    What's the deal with water bottles: FIFA's rules about what fans can bring into the stadium are strict. Sealed water bottles and even empty reusable water bottles are prohibited — a rule that's raised eyebrows, since the tournament is taking place in the heat of summer.

    Can FIFA ban political speech: The short answer is yes, according to David Loy, legal director of the First Amendment Coalition.

    Read on... for more on what is and isn't allowed during the tournament.

    The World Cup launches soon in Los Angeles during tumultuous times.

    It's still not clear if Iran's national team will make it to its two games here amid the U.S. war, and if they do, they'll show up to a diaspora unsure how to greet them. SoFi workers have voted to authorize a strike at the stadium, which means there could be a picket line outside the opening U.S. match against Paraguay. And ICE agents are part of the World Cup security apparatus.

    This all means there could be protests at the stadium or various fan events. Even if demonstrations don't materialize, there are plenty of questions about what's happening with the tournament, what's allowed in the stadium and fan zones, and what else to expect. Even FIFA's water bottle policy (they're not allowed) is sparking criticism.

    Below, we answer some of your questions about what's ahead and how to prepare when the World Cup arrives in L.A. on June 12.

    What's allowed in the stadium?

    FIFA's rules about what fans can bring into the stadium are strict. Sealed water bottles and even empty reusable water bottles are prohibited — a rule that's raised eyebrows since the tournament is taking place in the heat of summer.

    Fans can bring posters and flags if they're under a certain size, but FIFA's guidelines also prohibit any political messages, so some signs won't be allowed.

    All the rules can be found in FIFA's Code of Conduct. Here are some highlights:

    What you can bring:

    • A flag or poster no larger than 78 inches x 60 inches, if FIFA deems that it adheres to other rules, including one banning political messages
    • A clear bag that does not exceed 12 inches x 6 inches x 12 inches
    • A small clutch purse or wallet no larger than 4.5 inches x 6.5 inches (does not need to be clear)

    What you can't bring:

    • Materials, including flags and posters, that are "political, offensive and/or discriminatory nature"
    • A sealed water bottle or an empty reusable water bottle
    • Outside food, except for baby milk

    What about the FIFA Fan Festival and city watch parties?

    Similar stadium rules apply at the fan festival. Those guidelines are here. LAist has asked the Los Angeles host committee if reusable water bottles are also banned at fan zones, but did not receive an answer as of publication.

    The city of L.A. is hosting watch parties that don't require a ticket, which means there aren't the same restrictions on what you can bring. Details are here.

    Free speech in and around the stadium

    If you're wondering if FIFA has a right to ban political speech within its stadiums, the short answer is yes, according to David Loy, legal director of the First Amendment Coalition.

    " The First Amendment protects against censorship by the government. It does not apply to the actions of private entities," Loy said. "A private entity is entitled to set its own rules for what speech it allows and doesn't allow at, at its events."

    Loy said people have the strongest First Amendment protections in a "traditional public forum" like a public park, street or sidewalk. In those settings, restrictions on protests have to be politically neutral. That means demonstrations can still be limited by what are known as "time, place, or manner restrictions" — such as noise regulations — but not because of the content of the demonstration.

    ICE at the World Cup

    A number of officials have confirmed that U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement will be part of the security plan for the World Cup in Los Angeles, sparking outrage.

    L.A. County Sheriff Robert Luna recently said he'd received assurances from the Department of Homeland Security that ICE would not be conducting immigration enforcement.

    Still, L.A. host committee officials and others have offered no guarantees that immigration enforcement won't take place.

    LAist has a "Know Your Rights" guide to interacting with ICE agents here.

    SoFi Stadium workers represented by Unite Here Local 11 are also currently negotiating with their employer for the right to walk off the job if they feel unsafe due to the presence of ICE agents at their workplace.

    What if I have a human rights concern? What can I do?

    FIFA has a grievance mechanism where you can report human rights concerns. You can find that portal here.

    L.A. County has also deployed its 211 helpline for the World Cup. You can call 211 to submit a complaint.

    Still, some groups aren't satisfied, saying human rights at the tournament have been an afterthought. You can read our stories on those concerns here.

  • Fire damage closes island to camping
    People wearing yellow shirts and one wearing a yellow hard hat stand with their backs to the camera in a burned landscape.
    Specialists are evaluating the burn zone and any hazards on Santa Rosa Island.
    Topline:
    Santa Rosa Island, the second largest island in Channel Islands National Park, will be closed to visitors at least through the end of June after a major wildfire burned over 18,000 acres, more than one-third of the island. Overnight and backcountry camping within the burn areas will also remain closed for the rest of the year.

    The background: The fire started on May 15 after a sailor ran aground on the island. Though the cause is still being investigated, the U.S. Coast Guard said it was possibly started by flares used by the stranded boater calling for help.

    Why it matters: The island is home to some of the rarest plants and animals on the planet, including the house cat-sized Santa Rosa Island fox and critically endangered Torrey pines. The island is also part of the ancestral territory of the Chumash people. Some of the oldest human remains in North America have been found there, dating back some 13,000 years. The island is beloved by backpackers and hikers as well.

    What’s next: The fire has been fully contained, meaning firefighters have stopped its progression. Starting today, a team of specialists — including engineers, ecologists and fire experts — will spend about a week on the island evaluating the post-fire conditions.