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The most important stories for you to know today
  • Roy Choi, the Kogi chef, on his life in food
    A medium skinned man is wearing a black T shirt and an orange apron. He's standing in front of a variety of dishes and bowls, as if he's about to start cooking.
    Roy Choi at LAist's Cookbook Live event

    Topline:

    Roy Choi sat down at an LAist Cookbook LIVE event to discuss his first cookbook in over a decade, The Choi of Cooking.

    What he had to say: The James Beard winner opened up about his unconventional path into cooking, how a drunk night led to Kogi BBQ, and why restaurant pricing has become a barrier to food access and cultural exposure.

    Why this matters: Choi remains one of L.A.'s most influential culinary voices, and his critique of chef culture and restaurant pricing runs counter to industry norms. In a city grappling with the cost of living and food insecurity, his call for "$42 pasta" to come down isn't just provocative — it's a challenge to the industry's definition of value and its service to its communities.

    Cookbooks have always meant more to me than a list of recipes — they're storytelling objects. They carry memory, culture, voice, and visuals and they help us create memorable moments with the people we love.

    That's the spirit behind Cookbook LIVE, an LAist live event series co-produced with the James Beard Foundation, that I've had the joy of hosting. Over three evenings, we brought together top cookbook authors and food-lover audiences for nights of culinary connection and exploration.

    To close out the series, I sat down with James Beard Award winner and L.A. icon Roy Choi in November. His newest book, The Choi of Cooking — his first in over a decade — reimagines some of his go-to dishes with a lighter, more veg-forward twist. It's a book that reflects where he is now: still rooted in the flavors that made him a chef, but thinking about how we eat for the long haul.

    During our conversation, Roy walked us through some of his favorite recipes and opened up about the journey that shaped him: growing up in kitchens filled with his mother’s "future food”, finding cooking later in life, surviving New York's toughest restaurants, and building Kogi into something cosmic and communal. It was an evening full of honesty, laughter, and real talk about food justice, access, and the myths we still cling to about chefs.

    Below, I've pulled together a handful moments in the conversation have stuck with me — moments that resonated long after we left the stage.

    Roy Choi in his own words

    On his journey into cooking

    Chef Roy Choi who has a medium dark skin tone and LAist food writer Gab Chabrán who has a light skin tone and is wearing glasses speak to a packed audience at a Cookbook LIVE event. They're seated on stage with "The Choi of Cooking" book displayed between them. against a blue backdrop with LAist and James Beard Foundation branding.
    Chef Roy Choi and LAist's Gab Chabrán discuss "The Choi of Cooking" before a sold-out crowd at Cookbook LIVE
    (
    JVE Photo
    /
    LAist
    )

    "The beginning of my chef career — entering the hardest kitchens before I even knew how to cook.

    I found cooking a little bit later in life, in my mid-20s. A lot of cooks get into the kitchen very young. I grew up in a restaurant, but I wasn't really focused on being a cook. I was just in the restaurant as a restaurant kid.

    I didn't really get into it until my late 20s, and so I felt like I had to make up time before I even knew how to cook, I was going to jump into the hardest top kitchens in the world and just figure it out on the fly.

    Those kitchens were in New York City .... in 1997, I worked in the number one, number two and number three kitchen in New York City. Four stars on all restaurants. And I was not ready for that at all.

    By the time I was done with those kitchens, I was just at a point where I should have been when I entered. But it built my palate, it built my work ethic, my technical skills and my sensory aptitude of everything."

    On growing up in his parent's kitchen and "future cooking"

    "My mom cooks for like 300 people and there are three of us in the room. She doesn't know how to alter the recipe . . . the recipe's built for 50 pounds of chicken. So she's still doing it to this day.

    I grew up always in a house that smelled like cooking all the time. There was always food on the stove or on the table or in the laundry room. But that food wasn't for eating, it was for the future.

    My mom was a futurist. Everything she was cooking was for the future, and what I was eating in the moment was from the past.

    It never stopped. It was relentless — almost like maintaining a sourdough starter or working a 24-hour shift . . . soy sauce steeping, kimchi fermenting, garlic being roasted. On another level when you're 16, 17 and you bring friends over — you gotta explain it.

    With a beef bone broth soup . . . it takes three days to cook that soup. You have to decide on Thursday that you're going to eat it on Sunday. You have to think of the soup today."

    On starting Kogi and what it unlocked

    An Asian man with medium-tone skin hands food down to a customer at a food truck.
    Roy Choi, left, hands out food from his Kogi BBQ truck in Maywood in January 2024.
    (
    Allen J. Schaben
    /
    Los Angeles Times via Getty Images
    )

    "We started from a drunk night. It was a drunk night eating tacos in Koreatown, and my partner said, 'What if we put Korean barbecue in this? It'd be delicious.' And that's how it started."

    When we started Kogi, when we were out on the streets, it was all of the ladies of the lot. That's why my name is Papi Chulo. All the tías embraced me . . . Kogi wouldn't exist if we didn't get the pass from the tías.

    To me, Kogi is very cosmic. It never gets old. We've been around 17 years now . . . In 17 years, it's never felt like it needed to change. There are not many foods that live within this lexicon of timelessness . . . I've been very fortunate to crack the code on one of them."

    On food justice and the reality of price

    A book which says Choi of Cooking is sitting on a small table, against a blue background
    The chef's new book "The Choi of Cooking"
    (
    JVE Photo
    /
    LAist
    )

    "We still have to figure out why so much food goes to waste and why so many people are hungry . . . we have to move the priority of that dilemma upwards... build, like, a TikTok eating culture around the disparity in food justice.

    I would like food to be a lot more affordable. The chef world is getting out of control. $42 for a pasta is ridiculous; a pasta without lobster shouldn't be $42 just 'cause it was handmade.

    Price is the number one coded message within the disparity within food. It's the hidden thing. It's the secret message, the secret handshake and the dirty secret that no one wants to talk about. If you charge $42 for that pasta, it's going to just automatically exclude a whole sector of society and close the door on anyone being able to affect change in the future because they'll never be exposed to it."

    On the fallacy of the restaurant chef

    "A myth about being a chef or a restaurateur . . . that we got our shit together is a big fallacy.

    You guys write about [chefs] like they're gods . . . like they're elves . . . the word 'genius' is thrown around a lot around chefs. That's so untrue, man. Chefs are hardworking people. A lot of chefs that you think have everything put together are literally figuring it out as you see them.

    I don't believe that we're perfect, that we're geniuses and that we're gods and otherworldly. It's a job and a profession that requires you to get down on your knees, on your elbows, fingers in the dirt and really cook. You're more a sailor than you are a god or an elf."

    Watch the full interview below.

  • Discount store becomes home for all kinds of art
    The aisle of a store covered in many kinds of visual art.
    This repurposed space may be familiar to many bargain-hunting shoppers.

    Topline:

    The 99 Cents Only chain may be gone, but a new art exhibit at its former store on Wilshire and Fairfax is keeping its legacy alive in the most eccentric way possible.

    What you can see: From shopping carts suspended upside down to video art stuffed on the shelves to paintings and graffiti in every nook and cranny, the curators behind 99CENT have filled the space with artwork and L.A. artifacts for a free exhibition.

    About the exhibition: A representative for the gallery The Hole, which curated this exhibit, said the works in the store pull from its “West Coast network of artists and outsiders.” That ethos is on full display, as many of the works veer toward the countercultural and psychedelic.

    How to visit: “99CENT” is at the former 99 Cents Only store at 6121 Wilshire Blvd. The exhibition is free and open to the public from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. until Sunday.

    Keep reading … to get a preview of the art.

    The 99 Cents Only chain may be gone, but a new art exhibit at its former store at the intersection of Wilshire Boulevard and Fairfax Avenue is keeping its legacy alive in the most eccentric way possible.

    From shopping carts suspended upside down to video art at the checkout counters to paintings and graffiti in every nook and cranny, this is not the same 99 Cents Only store where you used to buy your cleaning supplies.

    The curators behind 99CENT, which is on display through the end of this weekend, have filled the space with artwork and L.A. artifacts for a free exhibition. So I had to check it out:

    What you can see

    As soon as you walk in, you’re treated to a complete reimagining of the 99 Cents Only store. This former site of the modern big-box discount chain has been infused with a healthy dose of the West Coast art styles that sprung up from places like the Mission District, Haight-Ashbury and Venice.

    All the original shelving is there, but nearly every nook and cranny has been filled with art.

    But look close and you’ll see cheeky nods to the 99 Cents Only store of yore. Much of the old shelving and signage is still there, even if slightly rearranged. On some shelves, hygiene supplies sit side by side with artworks and found objects.

    Some old shopping carts have been converted into suspended sculptures. In between songs, the loudspeakers play what I’m pretty sure are authentic 99 Cents Only in-store announcements in English and Spanish.

    One major auditory difference — and I can confirm this as a former 99 Cents store shopper — the music on the store’s PA system is much more lo-fi and homespun than the radio pop the old store used to have on.

    Since this is a self-described “artist flea market of sorts,” many of the artists have also scrawled their phone numbers and Venmo usernames near their works, and walking through different stations at the store really does feel like walking through different stations of a carefully curated swap meet or flea market.

    A large artwork held down by two mustard bottles.
    Many works of art coexisted with produce and groceries, like this work held down by two Grey Poupon bottles.
    (
    Kevin Tidmarsh
    /
    LAist
    )

    Even for works that aren’t on sale, most paintings and sculptures I saw identify the artist, though it’s admittedly a little more haphazard than most galleries I’ve been to.

    About the curators

    Representatives for the gallery The Hole, which curated this exhibit, said that the works in the store pull from its “West Coast network of artists and outsiders.”

    Paintings on the wall of a 99 Cent store.
    These paintings share wall space with this sculpture made of repurposed blue jean fabric.
    (
    Kevin Tidmarsh
    /
    LAist.com
    )

    One artist in particular takes the spotlight: The walls are covered by paintings by the San Francisco-based street artist Barry McGee and works from his personal collection — people who parked in the Los Angeles County Museum of Art’s garages in the early 2000s may remember his now-lost murals. All told, the curators say over 100 artists were represented.

    A nook of a discount store that has been covered with visual art of different mediums and styles.
    With so many artists on display, very little space in the former store goes unused.
    (
    Kevin Tidmarsh
    /
    LAist
    )

    How to visit

    You can see “99CENT” for yourself at the former 99 Cents Only store at 6121 Wilshire Blvd., a stone’s throw away from LACMA.

    The exhibition is free and open to the public from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. through Sunday.

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  • Mayor Bass says it's thriving, data says otherwise
    Aerial view of housing in Los Angeles with a view to the city's downtown skyline in the distance.
    Aerial view of housing stock in Los Angeles.

    Topline:

    A Crosstown analysis of data indicates that the pace of actual building may be considerably slower. Los Angeles Mayor Karen Bass’s Executive Directive 1 was supposed to slash red tape and accelerate approval times for housing projects that consist entirely of affordable, or below market rate, units. She said builders had already broken ground on 6,000 of them.

    Analysis findings: Of the 32,838 units plan-approved under ED1 through the end of last year and listed on the case summary dashboard, 4,993 have been issued building permits for new construction, a Crosstown analysis found.

    Why it matters: The slower-than-advertised pace of affordable units is just one part of a broader stagnation afflicting the city’s home-building sector. Last year, a total of 7,892 apartment units were permitted, according to data from the Department of Building and Safety. That includes everything from affordable units to luxury apartments. It represents a 1% increase from the year prior but a 34% decrease from 2019.

    Read on ... for more about the analysis on affordable housing.

    In her State of the City address this month, Los Angeles Mayor Karen Bass boasted that her administration had fast-tracked the construction of more than 30,000 affordable housing units.

    A Crosstown analysis of the data indicates the pace of actual building may be considerably slower. Bass’s Executive Directive 1 was supposed to slash red tape and accelerate approval times for housing projects that consist entirely of affordable, or below market rate, units. She said builders already had broken ground on 6,000 of them.

    Of the 32,838 units plan-approved under ED1 through the end of last year and listed on the case summary dashboard, 4,993 have been issued building permits for new construction, a Crosstown analysis found.

    Just 26% of affordable units entitled during ED1’s first year, 2023, have been granted building permits, all of which have been approved for two years or more.

    “Mayor Bass was correct in her statement that 6,000 units are currently under construction,” the mayor’s press office said in a statement to Crosstown. The mayor’s office did not provide a clear explanation as to how that total was calculated.

    The slower-than-advertised pace of affordable units is just one part of a broader stagnation afflicting the city’s home-building sector. Last year, a total of 7,892 apartment units were permitted, according to data from the Department of Building and Safety. That includes everything from affordable units to luxury apartments. It represents a 1% increase from the year prior but a 34% decrease from 2019.

    Los Angeles faces an acute housing shortage, a problem that has exacerbated a longstanding homelessness crisis and has contributed to rising unaffordability that burdens many of the city’s residents. According to the Southern California Association of Governments, the city of Los Angeles must produce 456,643 housing units during the decade, a pace it now appears certain to miss by a wide margin.

    Despite the chronic need for more housing, builders say they are up against an array of obstacles in Los Angeles. Production costs are more than double the average costs in Texas, according to a RAND study. The controversial Measure ULA, informally known as the ”mansion tax,” has also been blamed for construction slowdowns. The levy, which went into effect in April 2023, adds a 4% tax on residential and commercial properties sold for $5.3 million or more, and a 5.5% tax on properties sold for over $10.6 million, including apartment blocks. The revenues are intended to be put toward affordable housing. But the extra tax makes building an apartment project and then selling it particularly burdensome.

    Ari Kahan, principal of California Landmark Group, said his development firm has significantly scaled back their Los Angeles projects.

    “We still explore unique opportunities, but we cannot afford the risk of both ULA and the inevitable other shoe dropping on another related issue in the city of L.A.,” Kahan said.

    The city’s housing crisis has been at the forefront of Bass’s first term agenda. ED 1, which went into effect in 2023, was intended to fast-track construction by reducing approval times for affordable housing projects and shelters to 60 days. The directive prompted a flurry of new proposals. But moving those proposals from the drawing board to actual construction has been slow.

    Building struggles

    ED1 and programs that encouraged affordable housing, such as bonus diversity programs and the Transit Oriented Communities Incentive Program — which incentivizes low-income housing near bus and train stations — have been big enticements for new development. However, Kahan said Measure ULA has made it difficult for developers to turn a profit on those projects, and he predicts that most of them will never be built.

    The measure has generated over $1 billion through January 2026. Critics assail the nickname “mansion tax” because the levy equally applies to multifamily apartment buildings and commercial properties, not just expensive single-family homes. Fifty-nine percent of transactions are single-family residences, 25% are commercial properties and 13% are multi-family residences, according to the ULA Revenue Dashboard.

    Joe Donlin, director of United to House LA, the coalition of housing, labor and renters groups behind the measure, defended the tax and said it’s important to let the policy “breathe and take effect” to understand its full impact. He called the measure an economic engine for the city, adding that $400 million in ULA revenue went out to affordable housing developers last fall.

    “We’re talking about hundreds of new homes being built, thousands of new construction jobs, investment in neighborhoods that haven’t seen investment like this in a long time,” Donlin said.

    Donlin said Los Angeles’ housing struggles are likely due to stubbornly high interest rates, insurance costs and construction material costs around the time Measure ULA went into effect.

    Stephanie Klasky-Gamer, president of LA Family Housing, said she has been able to sidestep Measure ULA because she manages the properties she builds instead of selling them. For her, one of the biggest affordable housing hurdles is a lack of federal assistance to help low-income tenants pay rent.

    “[Los Angeles’s] largest housing gap is for our extremely and very low-income households. In order to make housing affordable to that target income group, it would require a larger allocation of rental subsidies,” Klasky-Gamer said.

    President Donald Trump’s 2026 budget proposal aimed to cut over $26 billion from federal rental assistance programs, but the House Appropriations Committee rejected the cuts and increased funding for housing assistance programs. Tenant-based vouchers received $2.4 billion more than they did in the 2025 fiscal year, and the project-based rental assistance program received an extra $1.65 billion.

    Westchester grows, downtown dwindles

    In a rocky year for issued apartment permits, some Los Angeles neighborhoods showed marked increases, while others saw steep declines.

    Westchester had 787 apartment units permitted last year, the most of any neighborhood. North Hollywood had the second most at 502, and Mid-City had the third most with 449.

    Downtown saw a substantial dip in permits issued. Last year, 207 units were approved, nearly half as many as the year before and an 87% decrease from 2022.

    The regression comes as downtown contends with a massive homelessness population. Downtown had the most non-emergency calls for homeless encampments, 8,417, of any neighborhood in 2025, according to MyLA311 service data.

    How we did it: We examined all ED1-related projects on the city’s case summary dashboard and compared those with the Department of Building and Safety’s permits issued for new apartments. In addition, we compiled the number of apartment new units permitted for construction in the city over the past decade. In a previous article, Crosstown used a slightly different methodology to determine the number of permitted apartments in the city. The slight changes in methodology account for the difference in numbers in that article.

    Have questions about our data? Write to us at askus@xtown.la

  • Bald eagles welcome 3rd egg after losing first two
    A bald eagle inspects an egg while in a nest.
    Jackie and Shadow welcomed a third egg Tuesday after losing their first two.

    Topline:

    Bald eagles Jackie and Shadow, whose trials and triumphs in parenthood have been livestreamed to the world from Big Bear, got another shot at raising at least one chick this season after welcoming a third egg to their nest Tuesday.

    Why it matters: Their legions of fans were left crushed earlier this year when Jackie's first two eggs were lost. Friends of Big Bear Valley, which operates the livestream, confirmed in January that an egg was cracked. A raven then came back to the nest later that day and breached both eggs.

    Why now: According to the nonprofit, Jackie's hormones reset — something fans had held out hope for — and she laid a third egg on Tuesday.

    What's next: She could still lay another egg as part of her second clutch, like she did several years ago after her eggs also were broken or breached by ravens. She's typically fertile and able to lay eggs January through April each year.

  • What it means to be unincorporated
    A photo of the Whittier Boulevard sign
    Iconic sign on Whittier Boulevard in East L.A.

    Topline:

    East L.A. is the most populous unincorporated community in the state. Here’s what that means and how it affects its nearly 119,000 residents.

    Why it matters: East L.A. is not a city, and it’s not part of the city of L.A.. Instead, it’s an unincorporated part of L.A. County, and even though it’s the most populous unincorporated area in California, community organizers say many residents are unaware of the problems that raises.

    What is an unincorporated community? An unincorporated area is land within a county that has not been designated to be a city, meaning that it relies on county services, including for law enforcement, public works and local government. Instead of being governed by a city council and a mayor, major decisions for East L.A. residents fall under the authority of the L.A. County Board of Supervisors.

    Read on ... for more on what it means to be unincorporated and residents can make their voices heard.

    This story was originally published by Boyle Heights Beat on Feb. 24, 2026.

    East Los Angeles is home to nearly 119,000 residents, but the community has no mayor or city hall.

    So who makes decisions? Who fixes potholes? Who gets called to report illegal dumping?

    East L.A. is not a city, and it’s not part of the city of L.A. Instead, it’s an unincorporated part of L.A. County, and even though it’s the most populous unincorporated area in California, community organizers say many residents are unaware of the problems that raises.

    According to the L.A. County Planning Department, there are approximately 120 to 125 unincorporated areas in the county, which altogether represent two-thirds of its total area and one-tenth of its population.

    “For the 1 million people living in these areas, the Board of Supervisors is their ‘city council’ and the supervisor representing the area is their ‘mayor,’” the department website says.

    So what does it mean to live in an unincorporated community?

    Let’s break it down:

    What is an unincorporated community?

    An unincorporated area is land within a county that has not been designated to be a city, meaning that it relies on county services, including for law enforcement, public works and local government.

    Instead of being governed by a city council and a mayor, major decisions for East L.A. residents fall under the authority of the L.A. County Board of Supervisors.

    East L.A. residents have called for representation that’s more closely tied to their community and financial transparency, saying they want to know how their tax dollars are spent locally.

    Who represents East LA?

    East L.A., located in Supervisorial District 1, has been represented by County Supervisor Hilda Solis since 2014. Her term is set to end this year.

    Solis also makes decisions for the nearly 2 million other residents who live in District 1, which covers more than 20 cities, stretching from Silver Lake to Pomona, as well as various neighborhoods of the city of Los Angeles, including Boyle Heights and downtown.

    On a state level, East L.A. is represented by Assemblymember Jessica Caloza and state Sen. María Elena Durazo. Rep. Jimmy Gomez represents East L.A. in Congress.

    Who provides key services for East LA residents?

    Independent cities often provide residents with their own municipal services such as law enforcement, firefighting, animal control, trash collection, road maintenance, library services and parks.

    Here’s a list of services available to East L.A. residents:

    • First District Field Office – East Los Angeles
      • Services: Here’s how you can get in touch with Solis’ office if you have questions or concerns.
      • Location: 4801 E. Third St., Los Angeles
      • Contact: (323) 881-4601
    • East LA Sheriff’s Station 
      • Services: In addition to serving East L.A., the station also serves the cities of Commerce, Cudahy and Maywood, as well as unincorporated Belvedere Gardens, City Terrace, Eastmont, Saybrook Park and Union Pacific.
      • Location: 5019 E. Third St., East Los Angeles
      • Contact: (323) 264-4151. For emergencies, call 911. 
      • Website: lasd.org/east-los-angeles
    • LA County Fire Department
      • Services: The L.A. County Fire Department serves all of the unincorporated area within Los Angeles County, as well as 60 incorporated cities, 59 of which are in Los Angeles County and one in Orange County. 
      • Contact: (323) 881-2411. For emergencies, call 911.
      • Website: fire.lacounty.gov
    • Public Works
      • Services: L.A. County Public Works responds to calls about graffiti, potholes, illegal dumping, homeless encampments, transportation services and building and safety permits, among other things.
      • Contact: Reports can be submitted online. Urgent requests can be made by calling the 24-hour line at (800) 675-4357.
      • Website: pw.lacounty.gov
    • 211 LA County
      • Services: 211 L.A. County provides health and social service resources, including housing support, mental health care, financial assistance and recovery resources. During disasters, like wildfires and other crises, the line provides real-time information and can help people find shelter, food, financial help and emotional support.
      • Contact: Dial 211. Those unable to reach 2-1-1 service can call (800) 339-6993. TTY/TDD# (phone for hearing impaired): (800) 660-4026
      • Website: 211la.org

    For a full list, check out this guide to unincorporated areas services for District 1.

    Why isn’t East LA its own city?

    Over the decades, multiple efforts to incorporate East LA into a city have failed. A recent fiscal analysis concluded that cityhood remains financially unviable for the region. Residents have continued their calls for more financial transparency and better representation. A new effort on the horizon may allow citizens to directly advise the county on issues unique to East LA.

    How can residents make their voices heard?

    The report that deemed cityhood unfeasible for unincorporated East LA last year recommended the formation of a Municipal Advisory Council (MAC) — a formal, citizen-led body that would provide residents with a structure for public input and give stakeholders a direct line of communication to county leadership.

    At the first of six community forums on Saturday, Feb. 21, some residents deemed the MAC a stepping stone towards proper incorporation down the line. Others asked for better economic investment and access to a localized, itemized budget every year for residents to understand how their tax dollars are spent on improving social services and local businesses.

    “Every problem we have, can be solved if we have a local government,” resident Francisco Cardenas. “We have nobody to complain to.”

    Here’s everything you need to know about the MAC and the upcoming community forums where residents are invited to weigh in. The next meeting will take place Thursday at East L.A. Library, located at 4837 E. Third St. Register here.

    Reporting for this story came from notes taken by Andrew Lopez, a Boyle Heights Beat contributor and Los Angeles Documenter, at the East LA MAC community forum on Feb. 21. The LA Documenters program trains and pays community members to document what happens at public meetings. Check out the meeting notes and audio on Documenters.org.