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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • Roy Choi, the Kogi chef, on his life in food
    A medium skinned man is wearing a black T shirt and an orange apron. He's standing in front of a variety of dishes and bowls, as if he's about to start cooking.
    Roy Choi at LAist's Cookbook Live event

    Topline:

    Roy Choi sat down at an LAist Cookbook LIVE event to discuss his first cookbook in over a decade, The Choi of Cooking.

    What he had to say: The James Beard winner opened up about his unconventional path into cooking, how a drunk night led to Kogi BBQ, and why restaurant pricing has become a barrier to food access and cultural exposure.

    Why this matters: Choi remains one of L.A.'s most influential culinary voices, and his critique of chef culture and restaurant pricing runs counter to industry norms. In a city grappling with the cost of living and food insecurity, his call for "$42 pasta" to come down isn't just provocative — it's a challenge to the industry's definition of value and its service to its communities.

    Cookbooks have always meant more to me than a list of recipes — they're storytelling objects. They carry memory, culture, voice, and visuals and they help us create memorable moments with the people we love.

    That's the spirit behind Cookbook LIVE, an LAist live event series co-produced with the James Beard Foundation, that I've had the joy of hosting. Over three evenings, we brought together top cookbook authors and food-lover audiences for nights of culinary connection and exploration.

    To close out the series, I sat down with James Beard Award winner and L.A. icon Roy Choi in November. His newest book, The Choi of Cooking — his first in over a decade — reimagines some of his go-to dishes with a lighter, more veg-forward twist. It's a book that reflects where he is now: still rooted in the flavors that made him a chef, but thinking about how we eat for the long haul.

    During our conversation, Roy walked us through some of his favorite recipes and opened up about the journey that shaped him: growing up in kitchens filled with his mother’s "future food”, finding cooking later in life, surviving New York's toughest restaurants, and building Kogi into something cosmic and communal. It was an evening full of honesty, laughter, and real talk about food justice, access, and the myths we still cling to about chefs.

    Below, I've pulled together a handful moments in the conversation have stuck with me — moments that resonated long after we left the stage.

    Roy Choi in his own words

    On his journey into cooking

    Chef Roy Choi who has a medium dark skin tone and LAist food writer Gab Chabrán who has a light skin tone and is wearing glasses speak to a packed audience at a Cookbook LIVE event. They're seated on stage with "The Choi of Cooking" book displayed between them. against a blue backdrop with LAist and James Beard Foundation branding.
    Chef Roy Choi and LAist's Gab Chabrán discuss "The Choi of Cooking" before a sold-out crowd at Cookbook LIVE
    (
    JVE Photo
    /
    LAist
    )

    "The beginning of my chef career — entering the hardest kitchens before I even knew how to cook.

    I found cooking a little bit later in life, in my mid-20s. A lot of cooks get into the kitchen very young. I grew up in a restaurant, but I wasn't really focused on being a cook. I was just in the restaurant as a restaurant kid.

    I didn't really get into it until my late 20s, and so I felt like I had to make up time before I even knew how to cook, I was going to jump into the hardest top kitchens in the world and just figure it out on the fly.

    Those kitchens were in New York City .... in 1997, I worked in the number one, number two and number three kitchen in New York City. Four stars on all restaurants. And I was not ready for that at all.

    By the time I was done with those kitchens, I was just at a point where I should have been when I entered. But it built my palate, it built my work ethic, my technical skills and my sensory aptitude of everything."

    On growing up in his parent's kitchen and "future cooking"

    "My mom cooks for like 300 people and there are three of us in the room. She doesn't know how to alter the recipe . . . the recipe's built for 50 pounds of chicken. So she's still doing it to this day.

    I grew up always in a house that smelled like cooking all the time. There was always food on the stove or on the table or in the laundry room. But that food wasn't for eating, it was for the future.

    My mom was a futurist. Everything she was cooking was for the future, and what I was eating in the moment was from the past.

    It never stopped. It was relentless — almost like maintaining a sourdough starter or working a 24-hour shift . . . soy sauce steeping, kimchi fermenting, garlic being roasted. On another level when you're 16, 17 and you bring friends over — you gotta explain it.

    With a beef bone broth soup . . . it takes three days to cook that soup. You have to decide on Thursday that you're going to eat it on Sunday. You have to think of the soup today."

    On starting Kogi and what it unlocked

    An Asian man with medium-tone skin hands food down to a customer at a food truck.
    Roy Choi, left, hands out food from his Kogi BBQ truck in Maywood in January 2024.
    (
    Allen J. Schaben
    /
    Los Angeles Times via Getty Images
    )

    "We started from a drunk night. It was a drunk night eating tacos in Koreatown, and my partner said, 'What if we put Korean barbecue in this? It'd be delicious.' And that's how it started."

    When we started Kogi, when we were out on the streets, it was all of the ladies of the lot. That's why my name is Papi Chulo. All the tías embraced me . . . Kogi wouldn't exist if we didn't get the pass from the tías.

    To me, Kogi is very cosmic. It never gets old. We've been around 17 years now . . . In 17 years, it's never felt like it needed to change. There are not many foods that live within this lexicon of timelessness . . . I've been very fortunate to crack the code on one of them."

    On food justice and the reality of price

    A book which says Choi of Cooking is sitting on a small table, against a blue background
    The chef's new book "The Choi of Cooking"
    (
    JVE Photo
    /
    LAist
    )

    "We still have to figure out why so much food goes to waste and why so many people are hungry . . . we have to move the priority of that dilemma upwards... build, like, a TikTok eating culture around the disparity in food justice.

    I would like food to be a lot more affordable. The chef world is getting out of control. $42 for a pasta is ridiculous; a pasta without lobster shouldn't be $42 just 'cause it was handmade.

    Price is the number one coded message within the disparity within food. It's the hidden thing. It's the secret message, the secret handshake and the dirty secret that no one wants to talk about. If you charge $42 for that pasta, it's going to just automatically exclude a whole sector of society and close the door on anyone being able to affect change in the future because they'll never be exposed to it."

    On the fallacy of the restaurant chef

    "A myth about being a chef or a restaurateur . . . that we got our shit together is a big fallacy.

    You guys write about [chefs] like they're gods . . . like they're elves . . . the word 'genius' is thrown around a lot around chefs. That's so untrue, man. Chefs are hardworking people. A lot of chefs that you think have everything put together are literally figuring it out as you see them.

    I don't believe that we're perfect, that we're geniuses and that we're gods and otherworldly. It's a job and a profession that requires you to get down on your knees, on your elbows, fingers in the dirt and really cook. You're more a sailor than you are a god or an elf."

    Watch the full interview below.

  • Panini sticker collecting growing in popularity
    A pair of hands fans out an array of colorful sticker cards featuring faces and other images
    A sticker enthusiast shows off some of the FIFA World Cup 2026 Panini stickers bought at the Soccer Locker on Tuesday in Miami.

    Topline:

    The hunt for stickers, produced by the Italian company Panini, is a decades-old World Cup tradition that's especially popular in Latin America and Europe. In the U.S., interest has been building steadily over the years, but this summer, the buzz is bigger than ever.

    Why now: Jason Howarth, senior vice president of marketing and athlete relations at Panini America, said retailers reported being sold out of sticker packets within a week of the release in late April — unseen in previous World Cup cycles.

    The surging demand comes as collectors face their toughest challenge yet. This year, they need to track down 980 distinct stickers to put the album to bed — 310 more than at the 2022 World Cup and a record number for the company. It's a reflection of the upcoming tournament's historic scale, which is expanding from 32 teams to 48 across three countries.

    Read on ... for more about the joy and trials of World Cup sticker collecting.

    NEW YORK — In Brian Sanchez's slice of Astoria, the FIFA World Cup doesn't begin with the first match. It starts weeks earlier, with the arrival of a sticker album — and a mission.

    It's a deceptively simple one: Fill the book with all the stickers representing World Cup teams, players, venues and other tournament details. But these stickers are sold in blind packs, similar to baseball or Pokémon cards, which adds to the fun and the headaches.

    Sanchez, 20, has tried to complete the task before but never succeeded. This year, he planned to skip it altogether, but it was hard to ignore the chatter and excitement among his friends and family — both at home and abroad — who were all participating.

    "Honestly it comes down to a little bit of FOMO," he said.

    The hunt for stickers, produced by the Italian company Panini, is a decades-old World Cup tradition that's especially popular in Latin America and Europe. In the U.S., interest has been building steadily over the years, but this summer, the buzz is bigger than ever.

    Jason Howarth, senior vice president of marketing and athlete relations at Panini America, said retailers reported being sold out of sticker packets within a week of the release in late April — unseen in previous World Cup cycles.

    "There's a different energy coming out of it," he said. "Right now, it's outpacing where we were in 2022 by three to five times."

    The surging demand comes as collectors face their toughest challenge yet. This year, they need to track down 980 distinct stickers to put the album to bed — 310 more than at the 2022 World Cup and a record number for the company. It's a reflection of the upcoming tournament's historic scale, which is expanding from 32 teams to 48 across three countries.

    This edition will also be the second to last men's World Cup sticker album produced by Panini — ending a partnership that stretches back over five decades. Last month, FIFA announced that starting in 2031, U.S.-based Fanatics will be the official supplier of FIFA soccer cards, trading cards and stickers.

    On a recent afternoon in Central Park, Sanchez met up with other collectors. Hunched over stacks of stickers, some two dozen people inspected the offerings with laser focus.

    With only four stickers missing, Sanchez was already looking forward to earning bragging rights as the first person in his family across the finish line this year.

    " I'm feeling pretty accomplished," he said. "I've been trying to get a win, and this is gonna be a huge win for me."

    An expensive, labor-intensive but rewarding hobby

    A single pack of seven stickers — available online, at corner stores or drugstore chains like Walgreens and CVS — now cost $2, compared to four years ago when five stickers retailed for around $1. That means simply buying enough packs to accumulate 980 stickers would total $280.

    Given the costs, finishing the book is rarely a solitary pursuit, and aficionados often meet up to spread the wealth, according to Crista Latvis, 26, who organized the recent sticker swap in Central Park.

    "You can't just buy your way into it," she said. "Otherwise,  it's super expensive and you've got to be very lucky."

    For many, these gatherings are part of the pastime's draw.

    "It's great to meet other people who are also doing it and also excited for the World Cup, especially since it's here," Latvis said.

    Sebastian Clavijo, who attended Latvis' swap, said he spent tens of thousands of dollars on his quest this year. Clavijo, 32, has been collecting Panini stickers since he was 4. This year, his goal is to complete the book only with pieces featuring red and purple borders — an even rarer get.

    " I just like soccer and I love collecting," he said. "That's my hobby, you know?"

    In 2022, Panini introduced stickers with different colored borders that vary in rarity. That element has been an especially big hit with the trading card community and contributed to the hobby's appeal in the U.S., according to Howarth from Panini America.

    Panini popularity has grown along with soccer

    Demand has always existed in New York, Texas, Florida, among other big states, but it's also emerging nationwide, in places like Phoenix and the Northwest, according to Howarth.

    " As soccer has grown, so has Panini," he said.

    Howarth believes part of this year's popularity stems from the expanded World Cup format. Teams that have never qualified for the tournament — and therefore never been sticker-fied by Panini — are finally getting their moment.

    For some, completing the sticker album is driven by nostalgia for their childhood, family or home country.

    Linda Lino never heard of the hobby until she was 18, and her grandmother gave her a Panini sticker book. That was in 2014. Lino has completed every World Cup edition since, in part in memory of her late grandmother.

    "It started with my grandma and then it became like a whole family thing," Lino said. "I love the community that it brings together."

    That's especially true with her father, who never had the chance to collect stickers when he was a kid in Peru, Lino said. Now, the two are making up for lost time.

    "My dad is so excited," she said. "He's like 'I want to help you. I want to put the stickers together.'"

    Clemente Lisi, a sports journalist who has written about the Panini sticker phenomenon, said the sticker album serves as a time capsule for the World Cup. With the tournament's return to the U.S. after 32 years, he expects it will produce more first-time collectors looking for a way to remember this summer.

    "This may be the only tangible thing from a World Cup unless you go to a game," he said.

    Lisi, who also runs Planet Soccer on Substack, anticipates that the U.S. company Fanatics will further cater to the market at home.

    " It'll even become more American and more baked into our culture," he said.

    Sanchez, the college student from Astoria, dabbles in collecting other items, like vinyls and trading cards. But what he appreciates most about the Panini sticker scene is its supportive and rarely competitive nature.

    " The community around the World Cup stickers is something like I've never seen before," he said. "The community is just so nice."

    After countless hours of trading and visiting multiple convenience stores, Sanchez found his 980th and final sticker at the swap in Central Park. It was of the Iraqi team. He let out a gasp, followed by a smile that spanned ear to ear. "Let's goooo!"

    With a mountain of duplicates left, Sanchez wasn't ready to move on just yet. His next step was to help his mother finish her album.

    " I'm going to take a break," he said. "I'm going to celebrate today and then get back to it."

  • Sponsored message
  • Experimental audio event in San Pedro
    Image is a man outside sitting with audio equipment in front of him playing sounds.
    Soundpedro's experimental improvisation.

    Topline:

    Soundpedro, the annual sound art festival, returns to the Angels Gate Cultural Center in San Pedro for its tenth year Saturday night.
    Image is a man outside sitting with audio equipment in front of him playing sounds.
    Soundpedro's experimental improvisation.
    (
    Jordan Rodriguez
    /
    soundpedro.art
    )

    The backstory: Once a year, dozens of sound artists converge on the hill with views of the harbor below to perform their audio art, which can range from serene to “beautifully weird.”

    What to expect: This year includes a performer bending a bar of tin with his bare hands to get it to emit what’s called a "tin cry" and synthesizer-based soundscapes that take inspiration from both the ocean and the industrial space below.

    When to go: Soundpedro is free and lasts from 7-10 p.m. Saturday.

    More info at the Soundpedro website.

    Topline:

    Soundpedro, the annual sound art festival, returns to the Angels Gate Cultural Center in San Pedro for its 10th year Saturday night.

    The backstory: Once a year, dozens of sound artists converge on the hill with views of the harbor below to perform their audio art, which can range from serene to “beautifully weird.”

    What to expect: This year includes a performer bending a bar of tin with his bare hands to get it to emit what’s called a "tin cry" and synthesizer-based soundscapes that take inspiration from both the ocean and the industrial space below.

    When to go: Soundpedro is free and lasts from 7-10 p.m. Saturday.

    More info at the Soundpedro website.

  • Tours by Metro highlight architecture, history
    UnionStation.jpg
    Union Station's Mission Moderne design.

    Topline:

    This Spring, Metro has been giving tours of Union Station, showing the architecture and history of one of L.A.’s major landmarks.

    Why it matters: The 1939 building mixes art deco and Spanish colonial in a Mission Moderne style and earned a spot in the National Register of Historic Places.

    The backstory: It’s called Union Station because when it opened in 1939, it joined the Southern Pacific and Union Pacific railroads with the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe railway.

    The displacement: A thriving Chinese American neighborhood was destroyed to make way for Union Station’s construction. The tour explores this history through an art piece titled include "City of Dreams/River of History," created by artists May Sun and Richard Wyatt in 1995.

    Coming up: Union Station is the site of an official FIFA-sponsored Fan Zone from June 25-28 as the transportation hub becomes a World Cup soccer hub.

    Go deeper: The controversy behind Union Station’s construction

    You may know about Union Station as an L.A. landmark or as a transportation hub — but how much do you know about its rich architectural history?

    To foster that interest and knowledge, Metro created a series of public tours of the station this spring.

    “There's so much that you might just walk by without really having the opportunity to delve deeply into,” said Zipporah Lax Yamamoto, deputy executive officer of Metro’s art program. “[The tours are] a really wonderful opportunity to be able to spend time with the station, learn more about the historic landmark, which belongs to all of us.”

    This is a photo of Union Station. A view looking upward of a cream colored building with large brown arch way. Scenery of four palm trees on the side of the building.
    Union Station in Los Angeles
    (
    Myung J. Chun
    /
    Getty Images
    )

    Architectural style

    It’s called Union Station because when it opened in 1939, it connected the Southern Pacific and Union Pacific railroads with the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe railway.

    While it was designed by father-and-son team Donald and John Parkinson, the architects who gave us L.A. City Hall, its style is very different. Union Station’s interior and exterior mixes art deco, Spanish colonial and other styles into a hybrid dubbed Mission Moderne.

    As you begin the tour, entering from Alameda Street, tour guides ask you to look up at the decorative elements in the high ceilings. The beams and geometric patterns may look like wood — but they’re actually just painted to look that way.

    A community destroyed by development

    Along the way, the tour gives background on pieces created more than 30 years ago. These include "City of Dreams/River of History" by artists May Sun and Richard Wyatt in 1995. Sun’s piece uses remnants of the Chinese American homes torn down to build the station, a reference to the high price that community paid for this building’s construction.

    Pieces of glass bottles embedded in an art piece.
    Detail from "City of Dreams/River of History," created by artists May Sun and Richard Wyatt at Union Station.
    (
    Adolfo Guzman-Lopez/LAist
    )

    “It was an enormous price. Chinatown ceased to exist in this area. … The families that lived here during that time are still around and maintain archives of that time period and the original Chinatown here, and we've worked with those families to have those objects on display,” Lax Yamamoto said.

    Meanwhile, Wyatt’s large-scale mural includes the face of a Chinese man, along with nine other people of different races, ethnicities and ages; a nod to the diversity of the city since its founding in the late 1700s.

    There are also stops to see new art installed for the World Cup.

    A mural shows several people of various ages and ethnicities, wearing blue, brown and teal clothes.
    A mural by Richard Wyatt at Union Station
    (
    Adolfo Guzman-Lopez/LAist
    )

    There are three tours left in the series but the RSVPs have reached their maximum; however, Lax Yamamoto said Metro will decide whether to continue them based on what people have thought about the tours.

    Meanwhile, Union Station is set to swell with people in the next couple of months as L.A. hosts World Cup games. The station is the site of an official FIFA-sponsored Fan Zone from June 25-28.

  • For this fan, it’s decades of dashed dreams
    Three men are caught mid-action on a soccer field. One is on the ground, wearing a dark blue jersey and white shorts. The other two are standing up, wearing a white jersey with a blue top and blue shorts.
    England plays France during the FIFA World Cup 2022 quarter final match.

    Topline:

    England is the birthplace of soccer..... but the last time the team won the World Cup was 1966. Undeterred, England fans turn up every four years with hope in their hearts, says LAist Senior Editor Suzanne Levy, who grew up in the U.K.

    Why now: As all eyes look to the Americas, English fans are beginning another bruising round of matches. Could this year be the one that brings the trophy home?

    Why it matters: Because Levy would like England to win the cup just once before her time on Earth expires. Just once.

    When I first came to the states many years ago, if I’d mentioned Arsenal, people would have thought I was referring to the U.S. military or something. But all that has changed. You can now watch U.K. premier league games in sports bars, most kids play soccer, and Ted Lasso is must-watch TV.

    To which I say — welcome. We English are proud of the fact that soccer began with us more than 150 years ago. And every World Cup, we think, surely this will be the year that the trophy returns home — the year that we’ll win!

    A large screen a the back of a packed stadium shows black and white footage of Queen Elizabeth and her husband Prince Philip awarding the trophy to the captain of the England team in 1966.
    Queen Elizabeth II awarding the Jules Rimet World Cup Trophy to Bobby Moore after England won the 1966 World Cup final at Wembley.
    (
    Marc Atkins/Getty Images
    /
    Getty Images Europe
    )

    I mean it did happen … once… back in 1966. It’s such a long time ago the game was televised in black and white and shillings were still being used. My mother was nine months pregnant with my brother, and got so excited jumping up and down she went into labor and had him the next day. World Cup Willie they called him. Actually his name is David, but never mind.

    Since then, every four years everyone in the U.K. watches the games with bated breath. And then something stupid will happen, and we’ll lose, like that time in 1998 when David Beckham (who played for England before he came to L.A. Galaxy) lost his temper and was sent off, and we’ll sit there, gloomy and despondent. I know because I was there in my friend’s living room in London, gloomy and despondent, thinking just once, just once, maybe could we please have a win?

    Six men stand in the middle of a soccer field, on two different sides, as the referee holds his hand up with a red card.
    David Beckham's infamous 1998 red card in the England vs. Argentina game.
    (
    Richard Sellers/Allstar/Getty Images
    /
    Getty Images Europe
    )

    The last World Cup, I went to Ye Olde Kings Head in Santa Monica to watch England play. At 7 a.m. it was full of people already on their third pint of beer. And when the team got through to the next round, the gentle men of England ran outside the pub, whipped off their shirts and started weaving through traffic, singing football chants and acting like hooligans. I really couldn’t decide if I was embarrassed or if it felt like home.

    Anyway, this time, since I’m now an American citizen, it’s in my contract that I need to support Team USA. I’m a dual citizen, though, so I’ll also be cheering for England. If by any chance Team USA and England play each other, my two selves will be watching, with a cup of tea in one hand, and a cold brewski in the other, and the polarities will explode, or something. But what will probably happen is that both teams will be eclipsed by Brazil or France playing the beautiful game… beautifully. Cheers.