Gab Chabrán
covers what's happening in food and culture for LAist.
Published March 22, 2024 5:00 AM
Selva's Arroz Chaufa — Peruvian style fried rice — made with smoked duck and a whole lotta crushed Flamin' Hot Cheetos.
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Gab Chabrán
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LAist
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Topline:
The best Colombian food in L.A. is actually in Long Beach, where guests can feast on Flamin' Hot Cheeto fried rice and technicolored Peruvian scallops on a half-shell.
South American-style cooking with a twist: Carlos Jurado was born in Cali, Colombia, but grew up in Long Beach before cooking for the country's best chefs. For the past few years, he's been cooking up brain-breaking South American-style cuisine that will delight your taste buds.
Why now? While there are plenty of other Colombian restaurants in Los Angeles, no one else in SoCal is doing Colombian food like Jurado. With his fine dining training and his funky, whimsical streak, Juardo makes it very much worth the slog down the 710 Freeway to Long Beach to see for yourself what he's cooking up.
Can we call it fusion? Sure, if you want. However, given the various influences that Jurado pulls from within his framework, which already features the natural mixing of cultures, we can call it excellent food with a great concept and leave it at that.
Entering the main dining room of Selva, the Colombian eatery located on a nondescript section of Anaheim Street, a busy thoroughfare in East Long Beach, feels as if you're entering a mad scientist's laboratory — if the said mad scientist was born in Cali, Colombia, and grew up in one of the most culturally diverse beach communities in California in the 90s, watching The Simpsons and listening to early Metallica.
Chef Carlos Jurado opened Selva two years ago, with partner Geoff Rau and has continued to amaze diners with his unique interpretations of his homeland's cuisine. (Traditionally, Colombian cuisine is known for its arepas and plantains, but it's much more, combining Spanish, Indigenous, and African influences.)
While there are plenty of other Colombian restaurants in Los Angeles, no one else in SoCal is doing Colombian food like Jurado, with his fine dining training and his funky, whimsical streak, making it very much worth the slog down the 710 Freeway to Long Beach to see for yourself what's he cooking up.
Chef Carlos Jurado is the Willy Wonka of Colombian cooking.
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Courtesy of Selva
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Selva, which means jungle or rainforest in Spanish, is a nod to the dense jungle surrounding the city of Jurado's birth.
Before opening the restaurant, he worked with various restaurant industry titans, including Sean Brock, Thomas Keller, Jordan Kahn, Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken.
He's gathered his knowledge from that pedagogy, which he fully displays at Selva, as a kind of Willy Wonka of Colombian cooking.
An excellent example I discovered during a recent visit was the arroz chaufa, a fried rice served that day with smoked duck breast (the protein of the day) and, upon request for those in the know, Flamin' Hot Cheetos.
I don't like to have closed boundaries in terms of food.
— -Chef Carlos Juardo
You read that correctly: smoked duck, fried rice, and Flamin' Hot Cheetos. What might sound like an odd pairing drove yours truly to house the entire plate on my own, with zero regrets.
"I don't like to have closed boundaries in terms of food," Jurado told me when I asked how the concept of fusion plays into his cooking style. He hates the word (I do, too, for the record), but understands my shorthand reference to the importance of mixing cultures.
This is especially true when cooking dishes from Colombia and Peru, whose cuisine is already rooted in various influences, such as Japanese and Italian culture. "It's just a cool little whirlwind of different stuff you get to play with," Jurado said.
The Flamin' Hot inclusion came to Jurado one day while watching the film Flamin' Hot while stoned.
The Perro Caliente Colombiano at Selva, AKA a Colombian hot dog.
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Courtesy of Selva
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It spurred a couple of memories for him, back to when he was first taken by the texture the Cheetos took on when introduced to liquid.
One was when he was a student at Wilson High School in Long Beach — just down the street from Selva — when he'd spend his lunch period dining on Flamin' Hot Cheetos doused with nacho cheese and lime.
Another memory is more bittersweet: Those teen years would lead to addiction and a jail stint, during which he and cell mates would make "spread," meals made out of Flamin' Hot Cheetos and instant ramen purchased at the commissary.
His love of junk food also shows up on the brunch menu at Selva with his take on a beloved Colombian street food item, the Colombian Hot Dog.
Jurado's version features a grilled chorizo sausage topped with sweet charred onions and peppers. The hot dog is showered with a handful of cotija, followed by a drizzling of aji mayo and sweet chili jam, and then topped off with a helping of crushed Lays potato chips.
The dish showcases his ability to take something familiar and elevate it to new heights, taking his diners down a jungle-like path to a series of divine flavors.
A whole smoked bird is served up with croquettes, plantains, arepas and fresh aji salsa.
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Courtesy of Selva
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The Smoked Pollo is one example that Jurado and his team constantly tinker with in his kitchen laboratory. While Jurado could efficiently serve a simple barbecue chicken grilled Colombian style, he instead opts to get lost in the sauce, creating something truly exceptional.
It starts with a 24-hour wet brine, followed by a three-hour smoke session before it kisses the grill, allowing the outside of the bird to slightly char. The meticulous attention to the dish exemplifies how tirelessly devoted Juardo remains to his craft.
The dish itself is a culmination of many milestones for Jurado.
One is grilling with his stepdad on the weekends; another is attending family get-togethers with family members with roots in New Orleans and Mississippi, to the proper down-home cooking education he received when working for Chef Brock in Nashville.
At Selva, "patron con hogan" is served, smothered in twice-fried -smashed green plantains and a creole sauce made with tomato, onions, cumin, and saffron.
The smoky meat, the crispy skin, the plantain's starchiness, and the sauce's bright flavors transport you to another place.
Selva's Peruvian scallop crudo shines in technicolor hues.
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Gab Chabrán
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LAist
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Speaking of beauty, Jurado has plenty of dishes on the menu that are particularly easy on the eyes. Take, for example, his Peruvian scallop crudo, served on a half-shell swimming in pools of psychedelic colors of greens, oranges from fermented rocoto, aji amarillo, allium oil, and aji juice, resembling a liquid light show. The rush of fresh, briny flavors mixed with sweet spice and topped with a dash of worm salt makes for one sensual bite.
Jurado says the dish that most represents him on the brunch menu (although it can be requested for dinner) is the "bandeja paisa," considered the national dish of Colombia. His take features a dry-aged flat iron steak grilled, a smoked pork belly chicharon, fried egg, rice, beans, arepa, plantains, and avocado.
"It won't be like my grandma or mom did," he said. "It's definitely like my version, my perspective of all my techniques and flavors, and I'm trying to meld that together and still feel a little traditional."
The melding of creative techniques and style that Juardo brings to the menu at Selva makes it unique. Those flourishes of creativity are like watching a painter apply different layers of paint to create an entirely new hue. In Jurado’s case, it's chicharron splashed with lime juice and dusted in his own blend of spices, giving way to some delicious results.
Selva's Bandeja Paisa is only served at brunch or dinner, so plan accordingly.
Elly Yu
reports on early childhood. From housing to health, she covers issues facing the youngest Angelenos and their families.
Published January 26, 2026 5:00 AM
At least 280 childcare facilities were destroyed or damaged in the Palisades and Eaton fires.
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Libby Rainey
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LAist
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Topline:
Governor Gavin Newsom is proposing $11. 5 million in next year’s budget to help rebuild child care centers affected by the fires last January.
The backstory: At least 40 childcare facilities were destroyed in the Palisades and Eaton fires, and more than 200 were damaged. Providers have struggled to reopen, even a year later, especially those who ran their businesses out of their homes that then burned down. They have called on the state for assistance. Some providers did receive payments from the state for 30 days after the L.A. fires, after which point the governor’s office directed them to an unemployment phone line.
“We fought hard to win this funding and will continue to advocate for policies and funding that ensure the state is better prepared to support providers and families in the immediate aftermath of future disasters,” said Claudia Alvarado, a child care provider with the union Child Care Providers United.
What’s next: Lawmakers have until June 15 to agree on and pass the state’s budget.
This week, check out Cat Video Fest, Grammy Week, a Bridgerton ice cream social, Katherine Ryan at the Wilshire Ebell and more.
Highlights:
The L.A. Central Library is turning 100 this year, with a number of events celebrating 100 years of learning. The kickoff includes the unveiling of a time capsule that was placed in the building’s cornerstone during its original construction in 1926.
Part Dear Abby, part Joan Rivers, Katherine Ryan is touring with her new special, Battleaxe.
Storied L.A. cocktail bar The Varnish closed in 2024, but you can step back behind the bar with one of its legendary mixologists, Sari Asher. This class will teach you the secrets behind three classics and provide a chance to relive the Varnish magic.
From the Upper Valley in the Foothills at Marta in Los Feliz centers on wood. The exhibit is sponsored by Angel City Lumber, a “unique lumber mill that specializes in sourcing downed trees from around L.A. County for use in community projects,” and each artist chose a section of wood that was cleared from Altadena. The invitation called upon artists to “examine the regenerative potential of a single, fundamental material” and includes works from furniture to sculpture and more.
While the rest of the country battles a real season with snow and freezing temps, we are deep into awards season, with Oscar noms already out and the Grammys coming up next weekend.
Since it’s Grammy Week, I’ll let our Licorice Pizza expert Lyndsey Parker give the lowdown for all the best music events:
Pull all the strings you can to get into the VIP parties and events around town, but there’s plenty of great tunes even for those without red carpet status. On Monday, everyone’s favorite indie-rock comic Fred Armisen is back at Largo, while Texas rockers Nothing More will take over the Belasco on Tuesday. On Wednesday, singer-songwriters Madison Cunningham and Mike Viola play the Bellwether, folk buzz band Lavender Diamond is at 2220 Arts + Archives and bluegrass star Molly Tuttle is at the Grammy Museum. On Thursday, Cannons play the Fonda, Lindsey Troy of Deap Vally is at Bardot for “It’s A School Night,” Inara George is at Zebulon, Grace Bowers plays the Troubadour, Robert Glasper plays the Blue Note and perhaps most exciting of all, Lizzie McGuire herself, Hilary Duff, makes her comeback at the Wiltern.
Thursday, January 29, 11 a.m. Mark Taper Auditorium L.A. Central Library 650 W. 5th Street, Downtown L.A. COST: FREE; MORE INFO
Downtown L.A.'s Central Library.
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Wikimedia Commons
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The L.A. Central Library is a gem in our fair city — it hosts incredible author events and artists residencies; has a dedicated teen area and a museum; and is an architectural icon. There’s an entire prize-winning book about the 1986 fire that ripped through it (one of my favorite books ever, highly recommend). And the library is turning 100 this year, with a number of events celebrating 100 years of learning. The kickoff includes the unveiling of a time capsule that was placed in the building’s cornerstone during its original construction in 1926.
Bridgerton Ice Cream Social
Thursday, January 29, 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams 1954 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz COST: FREE; MORE INFO
Dearest Reader, Cool down from the steamy launch of Bridgerton season 4 with a cool Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams social. The afternoon includes a performance from Vitamin String Quartet (who do those cool orchestral covers of pop songs in the show) and free scoops of the new Queen Charlotte Sponge Cake flavor.
Remember the Varnish: Cocktail intensive
Monday, January 26, 7 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. TalkTales Entertainment 555 N. Spring Street, Suite 106, Downtown L.A. COST: $85; MORE INFO
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Courtesy Talk Tales
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Storied L.A. cocktail bar The Varnish closed in 2024 (and if you, like me, frequented it in its mid-aughts heyday, it might be time for your first colonoscopy), but you can step back behind the bar with one of its legendary mixologists, Sari Grossman, who created balanced concoctions there for eight years. This class will teach you the secrets behind three classics and provide a chance to relive the Varnish magic.
From the Upper Valley in the Foothills
Through January 31 (open Wednesday to Saturday, 12 p.m. to 5 p.m.) Marta 3021 Rowena Ave., Los Feliz COST: FREE; MORE INFO
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Ryan Belli
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Marta
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The concept for this group show in Los Feliz centers on an element that came into singular focus following last year’s devastating Palisades and Eaton fires: wood. The exhibit is sponsored by Angel City Lumber, a “unique lumber mill that specializes in sourcing downed trees from around L.A. County for use in community projects,” and each artist chose a section of wood that was cleared from Altadena. The invitation called upon artists to “examine the regenerative potential of a single, fundamental material” and includes works from furniture to sculpture and more.
Katherine Ryan: Battleaxe
Thursday, January 29, 7 p.m. Wilshire Ebell Theatre 4401 W. 8th Street, Mid-Wilshire COST: FROM $30; MORE INFO
Full disclosure, if there’s one podcast I keep up with, it’s Katherine Ryan’s Telling Everybody Everything. Part Dear Abby, part Joan Rivers, Ryan is relatable even when she’s not. Always a little too honest, she spills about raising a family, the ups and downs of a comedy career and all the guilty pleasure celeb news you’re afraid to admit you read. The Canadian comic has been living in the UK since she was in her 20s and has a unique take on England that’s more Real Housewives than Bill Bryson. She’s touring with her new special, Battleaxe.
Transgresoras: Artists Giana De Dier and Marilyn Boror Bor with Elena Shtromberg Tuesday, January 27, 1 p.m. California Museum of Photography, UC Riverside 3824 Main Street, Riverside COST: FREE; MORE INFO
Latina women artists used the postal service starting in the 1960s to circulate their artworks and avoid censorship. Now, that work is being shown to the public in a new exhibit at UC Riverside’s California Museum of Photography. On Tuesday, there’s a free online talk with artists Giana De Dier and Marilyn Boror Bor, both featured in the exhibition, moderated by the exhibition’s co-curator Elena Shtromberg. The discussion will explore “both artists’ interventions in narratives around public space in Panama and Guatemala within the context of their broader artistic practice.” You can stream the talk for free; it will take place in Spanish with live audio translation. The show is on at the museum until February 15.
NHM Movie Night: Cat Video Fest Thursday, January 29, 5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. Natural History Museum’s NHM Commons Theater 900 Exposition Blvd., Expo Park COST: $20; MORE INFO
Regular readers of this column know I can’t pass up a good cat event, and this one at the Natural History Museum might be the, um, lion of them all. The CatVideo Fest features 75 minutes of curated cat videos, plus the entire evening is cat-centric, with an opportunity to walk through the lauded Fierce Cats exhibit, check out local cat-friendly vendors and meet with museum educators.
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Demonstrators gather in downtown Los Angeles on Saturday night over the fatal shooting of Alex Pretti by federal agents in Minnesota.
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Jordan Rynnin
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LAist
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Topline:
Demonstrations are planned by several different local groups in SoCal today over the fatal shooting of a man by federal agents in Minnesota on Saturday morning
Read on to learn more.
Several local groups in SoCal have planned demonstrations today over the fatal shooting of a man by federal agents in Minnesota on Saturday morning.
A Kaiser Permanente employee works on a computer at Kaiser Permanente Medical Office in Manhattan Beach, California.
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Etienne Laurent
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AFP via Getty Images
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Topline:
Some 31,000 nurses and healthcare workers employed by Kaiser Permanente will begin an open-ended strike in California and Hawaii on Monday.
Why it matters: California has the largest share of picketing Kaiser workers, with about 28,000 employees.
Why now: The health system and the union representing Kaiser workers — United Nurses Associations of California & the Union of Health Care Professionals — have been negotiating for a new labor contract for months.
Some 31,000 nurses, pharmacists and healthcare workers employed by Kaiser Permanente will begin an open-ended strike tomorrow in California and Hawaii, with 28,000 of those workers in California alone.
The health system and the union representing Kaiser workers — United Nurses Associations of California & the Union of Health Care Professionals — have been negotiating for a new labor contract for months. Core bargaining issues include wages for nurses, understaffing and retirement benefits.
"Staffing's been a big problem, wages, working conditions ... and that's just to name a few," said Peter Sidhu, Executive Vice President of UNAC/UCHP. "We will have the largest open-ended healthcare strike in U.S. history."
Picketing is slated to begin at 12 local Kaiser medical facilities in the following communities: Anaheim, Baldwin Park, Downey, Fontana, Irvine, Los Angeles, Ontario, Riverside, Harbor City, Panorama City, West Los Angeles and Woodland Hills.
Kaiser said in a statement that their hospitals and medical offices will stay open during the strikes, but some pharmacies will close.
