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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • Clogged checkpoints hurt U.S.-Mexico border towns
    Clothing on mannequins on a sidewalk have handwritten prices
    A clothing store in the San Ysidro neighborhood of San Diego on April 16, 2024.

    Topline:

    U.S.-Mexico border checkpoints remain severely clogged — and border communities are hurting.

    Why now: In recent months lines at the border often stretched for several hours, frustrating more than 150,000 students, cross-border families, health care workers, small business owners, and others who daily cross to and from Mexico.

    Why it matters: Experts say some fronterizas have stopped crossing the border as often, and the loss of foot traffic in the region has resulted in heavy sales losses for small businesses.

    Government agencies are spending billions of dollars to improve wait times at the U.S.-Mexico border, but the checkpoints remain severely clogged — and border communities are hurting.

    Lea esta historia en Español

    In recent months lines at the border often stretched for several hours, frustrating more than 150,000 students, cross-border families, health care workers, small business owners, and others who daily cross to and from Mexico. Experts say some fronterizas have stopped crossing the border as often, and the loss of foot traffic in the region has resulted in heavy sales losses for small businesses.

    “Money we can replace, but time will never come back. Those people are wasting their time in that line,” said Sunil Gakherja, 49, who owns a small perfume store in San Ysidro, a neighborhood in San Diego, close to the border.

    U.S. border officials point to the need to shift resources to handle irregular migration — people who come into the United States in places other than official ports of entry, usually to seek asylum. San Diego surpassed Tucson this month as Border Patrol’s busiest sector in the nation.

    But border-area residents and business leaders say the federal government should staff the border effectively so that the $741-million expansion of the San Ysidro Port of Entry has its intended impact, to reduce wait times and stimulate the regional economy.

    Research published by the Atlantic Council says a 10-minute reduction in wait times could lead to an additional $26 million worth of cargo entering the United States each month and an annual impact of $5.4 million on the U.S. economy from purchases by families and individuals entering the United States from Mexico.

    In the San Diego region, regular border crossers say wait times are going up, not down. Waits that used to last 30 minutes to an hour on weekdays can now regularly take three to four hours. On several days last December, pedestrians waited six hours or more. Adding to their frustration, long lines also stretch southbound to enter Mexico.

    “Devastating” is how Kenia Zamarripa described the waits on both sides of the border. She is vice president of international and public affairs at the San Diego Regional Chamber of Commerce.

    “This is families losing their incomes,” she said. “There are 800 small businesses in San Ysidro that depend on pedestrian crossings and, again, 90% of their customers cross on foot.”

    State officials said it’s unclear how much California has missed out on in sales tax revenue because that information can’t be broken down by zip code.

    Small border businesses suffering

    After opening in 2017, the El Rincon restaurant in San Ysidro faced the same challenges and growing pains many small, family-run businesses contend with, said Andrea Alaniz. Her mom owns the Mexican food restaurant along San Ysidro Boulevard, a few blocks from the border.

    “We just opened the doors, and it was just us doing the cooking and waiting tables — hoping that business would increase and keep on a nice trend,” she recalled.

    Word quickly spread of her mother’s caseros — homemade family recipes from Guadalajara, Jalisco. Lines would wrap around the tiny restaurant, with some customers even driving from Los Angeles or crossing north from Baja California, for the food.

    “You know, the spices … you can find the spices anywhere, but really, it’s the way my mom and my family cooks,” said Alaniz. “My mom’s an amazing cook, and our recipes … they go way back.”

    The whole family — five siblings — pitched in to handle the increased volume and their newfound success.

    “We all work here,” laughed Alaniz. “It was a Sunday, and I remember we were all here, and the music was blaring, and we were just dancing and having fun and it was a really nice feeling.”

    Then the pandemic hit. Federal officials restricted cross-border travel. Business tanked. About 200 businesses closed in San Ysidro, a working-class, mostly immigrant community of about 25,000 people, said Jason Wells, president of the local chamber of commerce.

    “Shut their doors forever. Gone,” he said.

    Alaniz and her family managed to stay open and even sent some money home to family in Mexico, but it was a daily fight. “We just don’t get the same amount of people coming in, because people aren’t going back and forth anymore,” said Alaniz.

    Multiple studies show immigrants like Alaniz’s family were a key economic engine for the United States’ rebound from the pandemic. Some 50% of the labor market’s recent growth came from foreign-born workers between January 2023 and January 2024, according to an Economic Policy Institute analysis of federal data.

    Zamarripa says it’s these same border communities that lose about $2 billion yearly because of excessive border wait times. She worries the latest bottlenecks at checkpoints could severely impact those struggling to get back on their feet.

    Gakherja, the owner of the perfumery, described a Sunday customer who waited six hours to cross the border.

    “He got in the line at 9 in the morning, and he got here at 3:30 p.m. It’s too much. Imagine they have kids who have to go to the restroom. They need food. They’re not thinking about shopping after that,” said Gakherja.

    Waiting is the hardest part

    It’s not just small businesses that are hurting. Those hardest hit by backlogs at inefficient ports of entry include the region’s hospitality and hospital workers, students, medical patients, and anyone who relies on the interdependence of a cross-border region to offset the skyrocketing costs of living in San Diego, one of the most expensive cities in the nation.

    Hector Urquiza, a 19-year-old college student serving in the Army Reserves, lives with his brother in Tijuana because rent is too expensive in San Diego.

    “When I had to go to work, there was a two-hour line. It was like a snake, you know, wiggling around. That was kind of painful,” said Urquiza.

    Cross-border travelers often turn to Facebook to document their experiences and wait times because the official Customs and Border Protection data is considered inaccurate and unreliable. Cómo está la línea Tijuana (How is the Tijuana line), a Facebook group with 430,000 members, was founded in June 2013 when its creator relied on the official CBP wait times and was extraordinarily late for work, according to his posts.

    Urquiza said people who regularly cross the border develop a system. It sometimes includes holding a spot in line for each other to cut down on their day-to-day commute, but Tijuana authorities recently have cracked down on the practice, making it harder to get through the school or work week.

    “Like you can tell somebody to save your spot, but when you try to go back to your spot, the police are like, ‘Nah, no amigo’,” he said.

    When commuters wait in border traffic for hours, business productivity across Southern California suffers, say local leaders.

    “As a business owner, you can’t expect an employee to perform at 100% if he has four hours of sleep and then six hours on foot,” said Joaquín Luken, executive director of the Smart Border Coalition, which aims to streamline border crossings.

    Wait times averaged three hours to get back into Mexico in mid-March, he said.

    “You have a complete shift of the profile of a crosser,” said Luken.

    Before, people would cross to shop, eat, or visit. But now, border crossings are strictly business—people who need to cross for school, work, or care for a family member.

    “So, of course, most of the businesses here in the South Bay are struggling, and this impact does trickle up the county,” he said of San Diego County.

    Reece Rackley, a 30-year-old who lives in Clairemont, crosses the border to see a doctor in Baja California to save money on medical care. She’s one of roughly 1 million Americans who travel to Mexico yearly to save on health care.

    Waiting in long lines to return home can be “very, very frustrating,” she said.

    Victor Navarro, 27, a social worker and student at San Diego City College, recently broke down crying when asked about the long waits.

    “I’ve lost at least two or three years of my life in that line,” said Navarro, who lives in the La Postal neighborhood of Tijuana.

    “Why is that happening? Do they hate us? Do they want us to be standing there in line? Are they humiliating us?” asked Navarro.

    Does the U.S.-Mexico border need to be this way?

    As President Joe Biden worked to salvage a border deal with Congress in January, he said he would “shut down” the U.S.-Mexico border. His words echoed former President Donald Trump, who threatened in 2019 to close the border if Mexico didn’t step up its immigration enforcement.

    People in the Cali-Baja region wish officials in Washington would stop saying that.

    “Number one, you can’t close a border,” said Luken. “Especially when you look at Mexico being the U.S.’s number one trading partner.” One in every 29 workers in the United States has a job created or supported by U.S.-Mexico trade, the 2022 Atlantic Council study shows.

    On Monday, many commuters woke at 1 a.m. to get into a four-hour line. When they finally arrived at the checkpoint just before dawn, they found less than a third of Customs and Border Protection’s available booths were open. Some wondered aloud whether the traffic nightmare wasn’t just a slow-moving demonstration of Washington’s threats.

    Customs and Border Protection has said it shifted resources to handle large groups of migrants who overwhelm border officials to cross into the United States.

    “CBP has taken significant steps to surge personnel and resources to impacted sectors and address the challenges we are experiencing across the southwest border,” a Department of Homeland Security official said in January.

    Border officials also are trying to make sure fentanyl doesn’t enter the country.

    Luken, of the Smart Border Coalition, said when officers take an extra three seconds to open and shut a car door, multiplied by the 150,000 to 160,000 people who cross daily, it’s easy to see how wait times are compounding.

    Customs and Border Protection officials recently declined an interview with CalMatters, but Homeland Security officials have acknowledged that frustrated daily commuters and excessively long border lines highlight a need for funding to address what Washington has described as a border crisis.

    “CBP will continue to evaluate the situation along the border and make operational changes as necessary,” Homeland Security said in a statement. “Stakeholders will be provided with operational updates as they become available.”

    The Homeland Security statement also put some of the blame on people entering the United States irregularly and the people who smuggle them in.

    “Encounter numbers continue to fluctuate as smugglers and bad actors continue to spread falsehoods and show complete disregard for the safety and wellbeing of vulnerable migrants,” the agency said. “The fact remains: the United States continues to enforce immigration law, and our borders are not open for those without a legal basis to enter the country.”

  • A flag ban that didn't end up happening at SoFi
    A woman stands among stadium seats and holding a red, white, and green flag with a sun and lion.
    A person holds a pre-revolutionary Iranian flag before the World Cup group stage match between Iran and New Zealand at the SoFi Stadium.

    Topline:

    Despite an expected ban on Iran’s pre-revolutionary flag at the World Cup, many fans waved and displayed it at SoFi Stadium for Iran's first match against New Zealand on Monday, which ended in a 2-2 draw.

    What about the flag: That flag is associated with the monarchy that ruled Iran before the 1979 revolution, and is a common sight at protests against the Iranian government.

    The backstory: FIFA had previously indicated that that flag would be banned in its stadiums, as part of its policy prohibiting political messages. As late as Monday morning, a judge ruled in favor of FIFA in a lawsuit filed in L.A. Superior Court over its flag policy, according to the Athletic.

    But on Monday afternoon, some fans entering the stadium were getting in with their flags

    Read on... for more about Iran's first World Cup match.

    Despite an expected ban on Iran’s pre-revolutionary flag at the World Cup, many fans waved and displayed it at SoFi Stadium for Iran's first match against New Zealand on Monday, which ended in a 2-2 draw.

    Just a day after the U.S. and Iran announced they had come to an agreement to end a months-long war, the crowd inside the stadium was largely pulling for Iran. Fans erupted in cheers when Iranian players had the ball, and exploded when the team scored.

    A woman carrying a red, white, and green flag with a sun and lion symbol in gold.
    A person carries a pre-revolutionary Iranian flag before the World Cup group stage match between Iran and New Zealand at SoFi Stadium.
    (
    Allen J. Schaben
    /
    Getty Images
    )

    Still, the stands were dotted with people holding a flag similar to Iran's national flag, but bearing a lion and a sun. That flag is associated with the monarchy that ruled Iran before the 1979 revolution, and is a common sight at protests against the Iranian government. Others wore the symbol on their t-shirts and clothes.

    FIFA had previously indicated that that flag would be banned in its stadiums, as part of its policy prohibiting political messages. As late as Monday morning, a judge ruled in favor of FIFA in a lawsuit filed in L.A. Superior Court over its flag policy, according to the Athletic.

    But on Monday afternoon, some fans entering the stadium were getting in with their flags. The flag was so present inside and around SoFi Stadium that one merchandise seller Raul Gomez said he had put away the official Iranian flag and was advertising the lion and sun flag instead.

    "They don't want the Iran flag," he said, gesturing at the national flag, which displays the emblem of the Islamic Republic of Iran. "That's why I put these away."

    One security guard who said he wasn't authorized to speak to the media told LAist that security staff had been letting people in with the pre-revolutionary flag. The guard said that staff did confiscate materials with more overtly political or inflammatory messages.

    People are scattered in a bleacher. Several people in the center hold up a green, white and red flag with a golden lion and sun. A person in a neon vest approaches them.
    An official talks with people with pre-revolutionary Iranian flag before the World Cup group stage match between Iran and New Zealand at the SoFi Stadium.
    (
    Robert Gauthier
    /
    Getty Images
    )

    Other publications including Yahoo News reported that some fans were turned away at the gates for carrying the flag.

    LAist has reached out to FIFA for comment, but did not receive a response in time for publication.

    Some showed up at the stadium to protest the flag ban. Parisa Heravi, an Iranian who lives in Los Angeles, didn't have a ticket to the match but stood outside near the line to get in, holding a large lion and sun flag and sporting a "Make Iran Great Again" red hat.

    Heravi said she was there in part because of concern that the pre-revolutionary flag wouldn't be allowed inside. She said she also came to oppose the Iranian team.

    " The players are all part of the government," she said. "They're all the same people, so we don't support them."

    Others arrived excited to cheer on Iran's national team, including L.A. resident Art Eftekhari, who runs a YouTube Channel where he follows Iranian soccer. He's such a fan of the national team that he traveled to Tijuana to stay in the same hotel as the players ahead of the World Cup. The team's training camp was moved from Arizona to Tijuana due to the U.S. war on Iran.

    " I'm a huge supporter of the national team of Iran, and it's so awesome to be able to go to a game just a short drive from home," Eftekhari said. "It's the World Cup, so it couldn't be any better."

    Iranians traveled from across the country for the match, too. Amir Navabi came from Georgia. He brought both flags to make sure he could get in no matter what.

    "I am a fan.  I have the one with the sun, and I have the one with the government logo," Navabi said, gesturing to his gear. "I just want to go and watch the soccer."

    Iran’s next match at SoFi Stadium is June 21 against Belgium.

    Matt Ballinger contributed to this report.

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  • Partnership seeks to help immigrant businesses
    Diners wait outside a restaurant in a strip mall with parked cars.
    The federal government under the Trump administration restricts SBA loans to immigrant business owners, shutting off an important resource to neighborhoods like Koreatown.

    Topline:

    A new partnership is connecting qualifying small business owners with interest-free loans of up to $50,000.

    More details: The Korean American Federation of Los Angeles, KAFLA, recently partnered with the Jewish Free Loan Association to connect small business owners with interest-free loans of up to $50,000 that can be used for startup costs, rent, payroll, inventory, equipment and other business expenses.

    Why now: In March, the U.S. Small Business Association changed its eligibility rules, excluding lawful permanent residents and requiring businesses seeking SBA-backed loans to be fully owned by U.S. citizens or U.S. nationals.

    Read on... for more on the program.

    This story first appeared on The LA Local.

    The Trump administration’s decision to restrict a vital loan program for small businesses to U.S. citizens has left some immigrant business owners searching for alternatives. 

    The Korean American Federation of Los Angeles, KAFLA, recently partnered with the Jewish Free Loan Association to connect small business owners with interest-free loans of up to $50,000 that can be used for startup costs, rent, payroll, inventory, equipment and other business expenses.

    In March, the U.S. Small Business Association changed its eligibility rules, excluding lawful permanent residents and requiring businesses seeking SBA-backed loans to be fully owned by U.S. citizens or U.S. nationals.

    Immigrant entrepreneurs are more likely than native-born Americans to start a business, according to research from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Nearly 40% of California’s small businesses are owned by immigrants, including 11% owned by undocumented entrepreneurs, according to the Bay Area Council Economic Institute. Nearly 60% of California’s 4.3 million small businesses, 60% are owned by entrepreneurs who are Hispanic, Black, Asian American, Pacific Islander or Native American. 

    “When times get tough, it’s resources like this that currently aren’t available to our committee that are much needed,” KAFLA president Robert Ahn said during an informational session last week. 

    Applicants must have steady income and meet certain credit requirements. Those seeking more than $10,000 generally need a credit score of at least 680. The program also requires one to three guarantors, depending on the loan amount.

    Business owners can borrow up to $7,500 with one guarantor, up to $36,000 with two guarantors and as much as $50,000 with three guarantors.

    Applicants must provide documentation including a recent tax return and proof of business licensing. The program accepts applicants with either a social security number or an individual taxpayer identification number, or ITIN.

    Rachel Grose, JFLA’s executive director, said the online application takes about 10 minutes to complete. After the initial application is submitted, applicants are scheduled for a Zoom interview with JFLA staff.

    Some business owners say the program could help fill a gap in access to capital.

    Yong-ho Kim, president of the Korean American Food Industry Association and owner of the Japanese restaurant Arado, said many immigrant entrepreneurs have traditionally relied on bank financing to cover expenses and invest in their businesses.

    “But the rules suddenly changed so that SBA loans are only available to citizens. There are many permanent residents, too,” Kim said. “Where are they supposed to borrow money to make up for the gaps?”

    Kim acknowledged that the JFLA application process is more demanding than a traditional bank loan because of its guarantor requirements. Still, he says the absence of interest and fees makes it attractive.

    Many businesses in the neighborhood, and across the city, are struggling with inflation and higher operating costs, he added. 

    “It’s very difficult right now,” he said. “Prices keep going up, and I’m constantly thinking about what I need to cut.”

    Kim said he personally applied for the program’s maximum $50,000 loan, partly because he needs additional capital and partly because he wanted to experience the process himself before recommending it to others.

    Ahn said the partnership grew out of conversations he had with David Horvitz, vice president of JFLA’s board of directors, during a trip to Israel earlier this year.

    “We spent a lot of time together in Israel discussing economic issues, particularly the struggles many businesses in Koreatown are facing,” he said.

    Founded in 1904, JFLA provides interest-free loans to residents of Los Angeles, Orange, Ventura and Santa Barbara counties.

    More information about the program and application requirements is available at jfla.org.

  • Hard choices ahead for major equity programs
    A distant view of a half circle of people in suits talking to a crowd.
    The Los Angeles Unified School Board is tasked with securing the long-term fiscal health of the nation's second-largest school district.

    Topline:

    The Los Angeles Unified School Board on Tuesday will consider its options for fiscal stability, and preview its budget for the next school year.

    Why it matters: LAUSD leaders say that without change, the district could deplete its budget reserves within a few years. The board recently voted to finalize the elimination of more than 650 jobs.

    What might be cut: The two most prominent items on the chopping block involve the district’s signature equity programs: the Student Equity Needs Index, which ensures dollars flow to schools with greater perceived needs, and the Black Student Achievement Plan.

    Read on... for more on the programs that might be cut, and what to know about the board meeting.

    When the Los Angeles Unified School Board voted in May to finalize the elimination of more than 650 jobs as part of a plan to cut spending, its leaders promised more painful decisions would be necessary.

    On June 16, another one of those choices arrives, as the school board will consider a fiscal stabilization plan to address multiple years of deficit spending.

    The most recent forecast predicts a $1.3 billion deficit in the 2027-28 school year and a $3.6 billion deficit in the 2028-29 school year. (California requires schools to plan budgets for three years at a time.)

    Perhaps the two most prominent items on the chopping block involve signature equity programs: the Student Equity Needs Index, which ensures dollars flow to schools with greater perceived needs, and the Black Student Achievement Plan.

    The proposed cuts to these programs, and others, would likely result in thousands of layoffs in the coming years.

    In a board meeting on Friday, community members called attention to what they said was a major transgression on the horizon.

    “We’ve heard this district talk repeatedly about standing for equity. This is an opportunity for you all to put your money where your mouth is … ,” said Joseph Williams of the advocacy group Students Deserve, who also sits on the steering committee for BSAP. “A budget is a moral document. Please stand with the most marginalized students in this district.”

    School leaders say that without change, the district could deplete its budget reserves within a few years.

    “Our fiscal stabilization efforts are designed to protect the district's ability to serve students today and in the years ahead,” said Acting Superintendent Andres Chait during a May board meeting.

    What is a fiscal stabilization plan?

    California law gives county school superintendents the power to intervene when districts are at risk of not meeting their financial obligations. One of these interventions is the creation of a “roadmap” to address a budget deficit, called a fiscal stabilization plan. The Los Angeles County Office of Education advises districts to show what factors are straining the budget and include strategies to reduce spending, increase revenue and temporarily spend reserves or one-time funding.

    The board’s approval of the fiscal stabilization plan does not automatically enact all of the cuts the plan proposes. Actions such as eliminating jobs often require further board votes and the plan can be revised throughout the next year.

    It’s also possible that additional state funding, including revenue from investments in AI, could offset some of the proposed cuts.

    What is the Student Equity Needs Index?

    The annual fund known as SENI is distributed to LAUSD schools based on several factors, including academic outcomes, rates of chronic absenteeism and the health and levels of violence in surrounding communities.

    SENI debuted in 2018, offering school principals discretionary funding to target interventions toward students with the greatest needs. Originally $350 million, the board doubled SENI in 2021 while flush with COVID relief money — which is now gone.

    “Reducing and eliminating SENI means fewer everything,” Griselda Perez, a mom of two current LAUSD students, told the board on June 12. “Counselors, tutors, less mental health and destruction of the progress that we fought for a decade ago.”

    What is the Black Student Achievement Plan?

    The Black Student Achievement Plan is a $125 million fund distributed primarily to schools that serve higher numbers of Black students. The LAUSD board voted to create BSAP in 2021 with the goal of closing gaps in academic outcomes between Black students and their peers.

    Mariah Williams, a new graduate of San Pedro High School attending UCLA this fall, spoke to the board Friday in her graduation robe. She said she wanted the board to see what investment looks like.

    “[Programs like BSAP] provide mentorship, advocacy, college readiness support, mental health support and opportunities that help students succeed,” she said, adding that when schools dismantle such programs, they advance an agenda that undermines efforts to improve outcomes for Black students.

    What will the board decide at its June 16 meeting?

    The board is slated to vote on the fiscal stabilization plan, and it will also take public comment on a separate budget measure and its Local Control and Accountability Plan. (The LCAP is a state-mandated plan that outlines how the district will support student success.)

    What if I have something to say?

    The board meets June 16 beginning at 9 a.m. You can watch here, and use the information below to reach out to board members.

    Find Your LAUSD Board Member

    LAUSD board members can amplify concerns from parents, students and educators. Find your representative below.

    District 1 includes Mid City, parts of South L.A. (map)
    Board member: Sherlett Hendy Newbill
    Email: BoardDistrict1@lausd.net
    Call: (213) 241-6382 (central office); (323) 298-3411 (field office)

    District 2 includes Downtown, East L.A. (map)
    Board member: Rocío Rivas
    Email: rocio.rivas@lausd.net
    Call: (213) 241-6020

    District 3 includes West San Fernando Valley, North Hollywood (map)
    Board member: Scott Schmerelson
    Email: scott.schmerelson@lausd.net
    Call: (213) 241-8333

    District 4 includes West Hollywood, some beach cities (map)
    Board member: Nick Melvoin 
    Email: nick.melvoin@lausd.net
    Call: (213) 241-6387

    District 5 includes parts of Northeast and Southwest L.A. (map)
    Board Member: Karla Griego
    Email: district5@lausd.net
    Call: (213) 241-1000

    District 6 includes East San Fernando Valley (map)
    Board Member: Kelly Gonez
    Email: kelly.gonez@lausd.net
    Call: (213) 241-6388

    District 7 includes South L.A. and parts of the South Bay (map)
    Board Member: Tanya Ortiz Franklin
    Email: tanya.franklin@lausd.net
    Call: (213) 241-6385

  • LA restaurants honored in food awards
    A blond haired light skinned woman is wearing a silver evening gown stands at a podium. Behind her are the words 2026 James Beard awards.
    Clare Reichenbach, CEO of the James Beard foundation, speaks onstage during the 2026 James Beard Restaurant And Chef Awards in Chicago.

    Topline:

    Several Los Angeles heavy-hitters were recognized in the James Beard 2026 awards, the Oscars of the food world, which were handed out Monday night in Chicago. Dave Beran of Seline in Santa Monica won Best chef for California, Providence won Outstanding Hospitality, and Kato won Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program.

    Why it matters: Similar to the Oscars, winning can lead to an instant boost in reservations and bragging rights. While three of L.A.'s restaurants were recognized, however, the city lost out in key categories like Outstanding and Emerging chef.

    Who else was honored: Nancy Silverton won a Lifetime Achievement award, Inglewood legacy restaurant Silver Spoon was honored with an America's Classics award, and L.A. nonprofit, No Us Without You, was awarded Humanitarian of the Year.

    Several Los Angeles heavy-hitters were recognized in the James Beard 2026 awards, the Oscars of the food world, which were handed out Monday night in Chicago.

    Best Chef in California

    Dave Beran, of Seline in Santa Monica, won Best Chef in California. The chef, who got Jeremy Allen White camera-ready for The Bear, said operating a restaurant in disaster-prone L.A. is hard.

    "You name the problem every year.... whether it's fires so on and so forth. So to stay culture and goal-focused and believe in what we're doing even though I'm sure there are paths that probably would have been more profitable ... [the award] means a lot," Beran said.

    A man with a light skin tone and bald head in white chef's coat and black apron standing in restaurant kitchen, smiling at camera.
    Chef Dave Beran of Pasjoli and Seline in Santa Monica.
    (
    John Troxell
    )

    Beran, who also owns Pasjoli nearby, offers a 16-22 course tasting menu at Seline for $295.

    Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program

    While L.A. was eclipsed in some key categories, like Outstanding Chef, Emerging Chef and Best New Restaurant, it picked up awards in others. Kato, the one-star Michelin restaurant in DTLA, won the Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program. Ryan Bailey, sommelier and co-owner, told the audience in his acceptance speech that their vision was all about inclusion.

    It was important that "no matter what was in your glass you were raising to cheer, you felt equal” at the bar.

    Outstanding Hospitality

    Meanwhile Providence, the three-star Michelin restaurant on Melrose that's celebrating its 21st anniversary this week, won Outstanding Hospitality. Co-owner and General Manager Donato Poto joked that in the restaurant world, its longevity puts it "somewhere between middle age and a miracle."

    A man with a light skin tone, a shaved head, and a salt-and-pepper beard is wearing thin black wire-framed glasses, a cranberry button-up shirt with sleeves rolled up to his forearms, a navy blue vest, and a grey and blue striped tie. He is holding a metal cocktail shaker, which he is pouring into a clear glass container.
    Kim Stoler, beverage director at Providence restaurant on Melrose, mixes the Electric margarita made table side.
    (
    Josh Letona
    /
    LAist
    )

    With a 1:1 customer to staff ratio, Poto said that exceptional service "is not something that can be scripted or manufactured, but rather is the result of a team united by a shared commitment to care, humility, and excellence."

    Other SoCal honors

    In a ceremony that was part celebration and part a passionate plea for recognition of the role of immigrants in the food industry, the contributions of other Angelenos were also honored.

    Silver Spoon, the legendary soul food restaurant in Inglewood, was recognized with a James Beard America's Classics award, given to "locally owned restaurants with timeless appeal."

    Local icon Nancy Silverton was awarded a Lifetime Achievement award. However, she said, “This award doesn’t mean I’m going anywhere … because I have nowhere to go. And mark my words I will be back there to receive my lifetime achievement award 2.0. “

    A local nonprofit, No Us Without You, was awarded Humanitarian of the Year. Started by chefs Othón Nolasko and Damián Diaz to provide food relief to hospitality workers during the pandemic, six years later, it's pivoted to also serve food at home to families affected by ICE raids.

    Check out the full list of winners