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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • Commercial catch shut down for third year in a row
    A fish swims near a rocky floor.
    Chinook salmon populations have been in severe decline in California for years.

    Topline:

    Facing the continued collapse of Chinook salmon, officials have shut down California’s commercial salmon fishing season for an unprecedented third year in a row.

    How we got here: The decline of California’s salmon stems from nearly two centuries of damage inflicted on the rivers where salmon spend the first and final stages of their lives. Gold mining, logging and dam construction devastated watersheds. Levees constrained rivers, turning them into relatively sterile channels of fast-moving water while converting floodplains and wetlands into irrigated farmland. Today, many of these impacts persist, along with water diversions, reduced flows and elevated river temperatures that frequently spell death for fertilized eggs and juvenile fish.

    Economic effects: Shutdowns have already put hundreds of commercial fishers and sportfishing boat operators out of work and affected thousands of people in communities and industries reliant on processing, selling and serving locally caught salmon. California’s commercial fishery has never been closed three years in a row before.

    What's being done? State officials, recognizing the risk of extinction, have promoted salmon recovery as a policy goal for years. In early 2024, the Newsom administration released its California Salmon Strategy for a Hotter, Drier Future, a 37-page catalogue of proposed actions to mitigate environmental impacts and restore flows and habitat, all in the face of a warming environment.

    Read on ... to learn about what will likely be a very short sportfishing season.

    Facing the continued collapse of Chinook salmon, officials this week shut down California’s commercial salmon fishing season for an unprecedented third year in a row.

    Under the decision by an interstate fisheries agency, recreational salmon fishing will be allowed in California for only brief windows of time this spring. This will be the first year that any sportfishing of Chinook has been allowed since 2022.

    About this article

    This article was originally published by CalMatters. Sign up for their newsletters.

    The decision by the Pacific Fishery Management Council means that no salmon caught off California can be sold to retail consumers and restaurants for at least another year. In Oregon and Washington, commercial salmon fishing will remain open, although limited.

    “From a salmon standpoint, it’s an environmental disaster. For the fishing industry, it’s a human tragedy, and it’s also an economic disaster,” said Scott Artis, executive director of the Golden State Salmon Association, an industry organization that has lobbied for river restoration and improved hatchery programs.

    The decline of California’s salmon follows decades of deteriorating conditions in the waterways where the fish spawn each year, including the Sacramento and Klamath rivers.

    California’s salmon are an ecological icon and a valued source of food for Native American tribes. The shutdown also has an economic toll: It has already put hundreds of commercial fishers and sportfishing boat operators out of work and affected thousands of people in communities and industries reliant on processing, selling and serving locally caught salmon.

    California’s commercial fishery has never been closed three years in a row before.

    Some experts fear the conditions in California have been so poor for so long that Chinook may never rebound to fishable levels. Others remain hopeful for major recovery if the amounts of water diverted to farms and cities are reduced and wetlands kept dry by flood-control levees are restored.

    This year’s recreational season includes several brief windows for fishing, including a weekend in June and another in July, or a quota of 7,000 fish.

    Jared Davis, owner and operator of the Salty Lady in Sausalito, one of dozens of party boats that take paying customers fishing, thinks it’s likely that this quota will be met on the first open weekend for recreational fishing, scheduled for June 7 and 8.

    “Obviously, the pressure is going to be intense, so everybody and their mother is going to be out on the water on those days,” he said. “When they hit that quota, it’s done.”

    One member of the fishery council, Corey Ridings, voted against the proposed regulations after saying she was concerned that the first weekend would overshoot the 7,000-fish quota.

    Davis said such a miniscule recreational season won’t help boat owners like him recover from past closures, though it will carry symbolic meaning.

    “It might give California anglers a glimmer of hope and keep them from selling all their rods and buying golf clubs,” he said.

    Sarah Bates, a commercial fisher based at San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf, said the ongoing closure has stripped many boat owners of most of their income.

    “It continues to be devastating,” she said. “Salmon has been the cornerstone of many of our ports for a long time.”

    She said the shutdown also has trickle-down effects on a range of businesses that support the salmon fishery, such as fuel services, grocery stores and dockside ice machines.

    “We’re also seeing a sort of a third wave … the general seafood market for local products has tanked,” such as rockfish and halibut. She said that many buyers are turning to farmed and wild salmon delivered from other regions instead.

    Davis noted that federal emergency relief funds promised for the 2023 closure still have not arrived. “Nobody has seen a dime,” he said.

    Fewer returning salmon

    Before the Gold Rush, several million Chinook spawned annually in the river systems of the Central Valley and the state’s northern coast. Through much of the 20th century, California’s salmon fishery formed the economic backbone of coastal fishing ports, with fishers using hook and line pulling in millions of pounds in good years.

    But in 2024, just 99,274 fall-run Chinook — the most commercially viable of the Central Valley’s four subpopulations — returned to the Sacramento River and its tributaries, substantially lower than the numbers in 2023. In 2022, fewer than 70,000 returned, one of the lowest estimates ever.

    About 40,000 returned to the San Joaquin River. Fewer than 30,000 Chinook reached their spawning grounds in the Klamath River system, where the Hoopa, Yurok and Karuk tribes rely on the fish in years of abundance.

    The decline of California’s salmon stems from nearly two centuries of damage inflicted on the rivers where salmon spend the first and final stages of their lives. Gold mining, logging and dam construction devastated watersheds. Levees constrained rivers, turning them into relatively sterile channels of fast-moving water while converting floodplains and wetlands into irrigated farmland.

    Today, many of these impacts persist, along with water diversions, reduced flows and elevated river temperatures that frequently spell death for fertilized eggs and juvenile fish.

    The future of California salmon is murky

    Peter Moyle, a UC Davis fish biologist and professor emeritus, said recovery of self-sustaining populations may be possible in some tributaries of the Sacramento River.

    “There are some opportunities for at least keeping runs going in parts of the Central Valley, but getting naturally spawning fish back in large numbers, I just can’t see it happening,” he said.

    Jacob Katz, a biologist with the group California Trout, holds out hope for a future of flourishing Sacramento River Chinook. “We could have vibrant fall-run populations in a decade,” he said.

    That will require major habitat restoration involving dam removals, reconstruction of levee systems to revive wetlands and floodplains, and reduced water diversions for agriculture — all measures fraught with cost, regulatory constraints and controversy.

    State officials, recognizing the risk of extinction, have promoted salmon recovery as a policy goal for years. In early 2024, the Newsom administration released its California Salmon Strategy for a Hotter, Drier Future, a 37-page catalogue of proposed actions to mitigate environmental impacts and restore flows and habitat, all in the face of a warming environment.

    Artis of Golden State Salmon Association said the state’s salmon strategy includes some important items but leaves out equally critical ones, like protecting minimum required flows for fish — what Artis said are threatened by proposed water projects endorsed by the Newsom administration.

    “It fails to include some of the upcoming salmon-killing projects that the governor is pushing like Sites Reservoir and the Delta tunnel, and it ignores the fact that the Voluntary Agreements are designed to allow massive diversions of water,” he said.

    Experts agree that an important key to rebuilding salmon runs is increasing the frequency and duration of shallow flooding in riverside riparian areas, or even fallow rice paddies — a program Katz has helped develop through his career.

    On such seasonal floodplains, a shallow layer of water can help trigger an explosion of photosynthesis and food production, ultimately providing nutrition for juvenile salmon as they migrate out of the river system each spring.

    Through meetings with farmers, urban water agencies and government officials, Rene Henery, California science director with Trout Unlimited, has helped draft an ambitious salmon recovery plan dubbed “Reorienting to Recovery.” Featuring habitat restoration, carefully managed harvests and generously enhanced river flows — especially in dry years — this framework, Henery said, could rebuild diminished Central Valley Chinook runs to more than 1.6 million adult fish per year over a 20-year period.

    He said adversaries — often farmers and environmentalists — must shift from traditional feuds over water to more collaborative programs of restoring productive watersheds while maintaining productive agriculture.

    As the recovery needle for Chinook moves in the wrong direction, Katz said deliberate action is urgent.

    “We’re balanced on the edge of losing these populations,” he said. “We have to go big now. We have no other option.”

  • Local governance could return in 2027
    Five people stand behind a lectern with the words Inglewood Unified School District in green letters. Three women and a man have dark skin tone and one man has medium light skin tone.
    The Inglewood Board of Education, from left, Margaret Evans, Brandon Myers, Carliss McGhee, Joyce Randall and Ernesto Castillo, will regain decision-making power when the district exits receivership.

    Topline:

    Inglewood Unified is one step closer to independence more than a decade after the state took over the school district amid a financial crisis.

    Why now: A July state report found the district has improved its financial and facilities management enough to operate independently. If Inglewood maintains this progress, the district could regain local control in 2027 with some guardrails.

    The backstory: In 2012, the Inglewood Unified Board of Trustees requested a multimillion-dollar loan from the state to balance its budget. The district ultimately borrowed $29 million and entered receivership as a condition of the loan. Inglewood’s board lost the power to make decisions and an administrator was appointed, first by the state, and later by the L.A. County Office of Education.

    Why it matters: During the receivership, the locally elected board has been able to advise, but not have a final say on decisions on everything from the budget to school closures. “It created anxiety about who and what is being served with these decisions,” said Board Member Ernesto Castillo. “ Now moving forward, the district and the community knows that the board is going to make decisions on behalf of their voters, on behalf of their students or their families, and I think that's going to help regain trust.”

    What's next: California’s Fiscal Crisis and Management Assistance Team (FCMAT) will return to conduct another evaluation of the district next year. If Inglewood maintains or improves its scores, the county can return power to the board. However, an assigned trustee will have the power to reverse board decisions until the district pays off the initial state loan and passes an external audit.

    Read on ... to learn more about how this could change the district.

    Inglewood Unified is one step closer to independence more than a decade after the state took over the school district amid a financial crisis.

    A July report found the district has improved its financial and facilities management enough to operate independently. If Inglewood maintains this progress, the district could regain local control in 2027 with some guardrails.

    “They've met the standards that really demonstrate we have strong systems in place, sound financial management, that the district is operating effectively so that students can learn and thrive and do well,” Debra Duardo, Los Angeles County Superintendent of Schools, told LAist.

    The county, which has authority over the 6,000-student school district, announced the news that the district had met 153 standards at a press conference Thursday at City Honors International Preparatory High.

    James Morris, who has served as the county-appointed administrator for the district since 2023, said one example of a change the district has made is setting up a system to monitor utility bills.

    “This is an achievement that was built by people, not just spreadsheets,” Morris said. “Our teachers, our classified staff, our labor partners, community partners, have all been working hard for 14 years.”

    The backstory

    In 2012, the Inglewood Unified Board of Trustees requested a multimillion-dollar loan from the state to balance its budget.

    A state report said the district’s financial insolvency had been created by overstatement of attendance (which is the basis for state funding), understatement of salary costs, deficit spending and declining enrollment among other factors.

    The district ultimately borrowed $29 million and became one of only 10 school districts in the state to enter receivership since 1990 as a condition of an emergency loan. Inglewood’s board lost the power to make decisions and an administrator was appointed, first by the state, and later by the L.A. County Office of Education.

    Ernesto Castillo was a senior at City Honors when the district was placed under receivership.

    “It was a really scary time, and it felt that I was leaving a sinking ship when I graduated,” Castillo, who’s now a member of the district’s board, said. “To see it still kind of flounder for years under state control was really disappointing and disheartening, especially as it affected my cousins, it affected the residents of my community.”

    John Hughes has been an educator in the district for nearly three decades and is the president of the Inglewood Teachers Association.

    “ When you have an outside entity's scrutiny, I think it creates a feeling among educators of a lack of autonomy,” Hughes said. “But also a lack of a voice to be heard with the real needs that they're experiencing day to day.”

    A woman with dark skin tone and glasses wears a gray cardigan and smiles.
    Marcie Brown, vice president of the Inglewood Council of PTAs, said the most recent county-appointed administrator, has been more transparent with the community.
    (
    Mariana Dale
    /
    LAist
    )

    Marcie Brown, vice president of the Inglewood Council of PTAs, said the receivership created a negative perception of the district that obscured the rich experience that her grandchildren had in the district.

    “ We heard all the buzzwords, underdeveloped, underprivileged. I'm like, ‘We never accepted any of those words at all,’” Brown said. “Our children got to … live large regardless.”

    Castillo, the board member, said it was challenging for the board not to have the final say on the decisions such as closing five schools in 2025.

    “It created anxiety about who and what is being served with these decisions,” Castillo said. “ Now moving forward, the district and the community knows that the board is gonna make decisions on behalf of their voters, on behalf of their students or their families, and I think that's gonna help regain trust.”

    Inglewood Unified’s road to recovery

    Fiscal Crisis and Management Assistance Team (FCMAT), the California agency that supports public schools' financial and business practices, has evaluated Inglewood Unified across five areas since 2013:

    • Community relations and governance 
    • Personnel management
    • Pupil achievement
    • Financial management 
    • Facilities management

    The first step for the district to exit receivership is to meet 153 standards that touch on everything from budget development to data collection.

    Michael Fine, FCMAT’s CEO, said most districts exit this phase within six years.

    “ Inglewood's a bit unique in that it has been in phase one since inception,” Fine said.

    How Inglewood families can get involved in the district’s future

    Join a parent teacher group (PTA) at your child’s school 

    • “ The parent involvement is the key,” said John Hughes, a longtime Inglewood educator. “That's where schools are held accountable…and you see the difference.” 

    Watch or attend a board meeting

    • Even though the board doesn’t currently oversee the district directly, these meetings are where important decisions about finances, curriculum, school safety and other topics are discussed. Community members can also make public comments. The schedule, agendas and livestream are posted online.

    We also have more tips in our guide to school family engagement.

    The district cycled through several external administrators appointed by the state before a change in the law transferred oversight to the county in 2018.

    “ Leadership turnover is really detrimental to a district,” Duardo, the County Superintendent, said. “You have to have leaders that are gonna stick around and know the community and know the staff and be able to do the work.”

    The district met the FCMAT standards for community relations and governance in 2023 and personnel and student achievement in 2025.

    The district met the standards in the last two areas— financial and facilities management— in the most recent report released this month.

    What’s next

    FCMAT will return to conduct another evaluation of the district next year. If Inglewood maintains or improves its scores, the county can return power to the board.

    However, an assigned trustee will have the power to reverse board decisions until the district pays off the initial state loan and passes an external audit.

    FCMAT’s most recent evaluation also outlines remaining challenges, including continued deficit spending and declining enrollment.

    “ If in receivership, with all this extra assistance and focus, they're not balancing their budget, then what happens when those extra protections disappear?” Fine asked.

  • Sponsored message
  • LA plans to put 4,300 families on new vouchers
    A "for rent" sign hangs outside a Los Angeles apartment building.
    A "for rent" sign hangs outside a Los Angeles apartment building.

    Topline:

    Los Angeles housing officials say they’ve averted a crisis that could have put thousands of families at risk of homelessness by the start of 2027.

    The backstory: During the COVID-19 pandemic, thousands of low-income Angelenos moved into apartments with the help of federally funded emergency housing vouchers. More than 4,300 households in the city and county still rely on those vouchers to subsidize their rents.

    The problem: L.A. officials have warned that federal funding to support the emergency program will dry up at the end of December 2026, potentially leading to evictions and homelessness for tenants unable to pay the full rent on their units.

    What’s new: On Thursday, city and county housing authorities announced that increased federal funding and improved local budgets will now allow all emergency housing voucher holders.

    Los Angeles housing officials say they’ve averted a crisis that could have put thousands of families at risk of homelessness by the start of 2027.

    During the COVID-19 pandemic, thousands of low-income Angelenos moved into apartments with the help of federally funded emergency housing vouchers. More than 4,300 households in the city and county still rely on those vouchers to subsidize their rents.

    But L.A. officials have warned that federal funding to support this program will dry up at the end of December 2026, potentially leading to evictions and homelessness for tenants unable to pay the full rent on their units.

    On Thursday, city and county housing authorities announced that increased federal funding and improved local budgets will now allow all emergency housing voucher holders to transition out of the temporary pandemic program and into the traditional Housing Choice Voucher program, widely known as Section 8.

    “This is housing for the long term for these families,” said Marcie Vega, director of assisted housing programs for the Housing Authority of the City of L.A.

    How many families are affected?

    The city’s housing authority oversees leases for more than 2,700 emergency housing vouchers. The county’s housing authority oversees another 1,600.

    Officials say as long as participants still qualify for federal housing aid, they will be able to stay in their current homes without having to complete an onerous amount of paperwork.

    “The housing authority is doing the administrative work to transition these families over,” Vega said, noting that the plan is to complete the transition by September.

    Tenant advocates who work with renters on the temporary program say the news will ease a lot of anxiety.

    “Folks we've been hearing from are in desperate panic,” said Manuel Villagomez, an attorney with the Legal Aid Foundation of Los Angeles. “It's a huge relief.”

    How voucher programs work

    Participants use these vouchers to find apartments on the private rental market, which can be a challenge given how many L.A. landlords are reluctant to accept them.

    Tenants typically pay about 30% of their income toward their rent, with vouchers covering the rest.

    The number of renters with incomes low enough to qualify for a voucher is far larger than the amount of vouchers L.A. housing authorities can offer.

    Cities rarely open their waitlists, and they often pick applicants by lottery for a spot on the list. Once tenants are on the list, they can wait for years before getting a voucher.

  • Making sense of advisories, watches and warnings
    A man holds a water bottle while hiking at sunset in Los Angeles, California
    When forecasters use words like "watch," advisory" and "warning," they have specific meanings.

    Topline:

    Much of Southern California is under a heat advisory this week and an extreme heat watch next week. What do those terms mean?

    The details: Heat advisories are issued when temperatures are hot enough to cause discomfort and potentially lead to heat-related illnesses. Extreme heat watches are essentially forecasts for upcoming periods of potentially dangerous heat. Extreme heat warnings are issued leading up to and during periods of dangerously high temperatures.

    Why it matters: A heat wave is settling into Southern California this week, with temperatures in some parts of the region to hit the triple digits. Even more extreme temperatures are expected for L.A. County next week. The Coachella Valley is already experiencing potentially dangerous heat, with highs approaching 115 degrees on Friday.

    Why now: Southern Californians are used to hot summer weather, but heat waves are getting hotter, longer and more frequent as the climate changes. National Weather Service forecasters also changed the words they use to describe extreme heat last year.

    Read on ... for details.

    It’s hot out there, and it’s only going to get hotter.

    National Weather Service forecasters issued a slew of alerts this week as a heat wave settles into Southern California with even hotter weather right around the corner.

    A heat advisory is in effect until Tuesday for much of the region, with triple-digit temperatures expected in some places. Then, from Tuesday through Thursday, July 16, L.A. County and its neighbors to the north are under a more severe extreme heat watch.

    An extreme weather warning is already in place for the Coachella Valley, where highs are expected to approach 115 degrees on Friday.

    Southern Californians are no strangers to hot weather in the summer, but heat waves are getting hotter, longer and more frequent as the climate changes.

    And the words forecasters use to describe these weather events has changed too. The NWS rolled out new heat alert language last year after the previous summer broke records for the hottest in U.S. history.

    So, what exactly triggers these heat alerts? And what should you do about them? Here’s a guide:

    Heat Advisory: Advisories are issued when temperatures are expected to be hot enough to cause discomfort and potentially lead to heat-related illnesses, especially for more vulnerable populations like young children and the elderly. During a heat advisory, consider staying in a cool place and limiting outside activity, especially during the day. For those who spend time outside, be sure to drink plenty of water and take breaks in the shade.

    Extreme Heat Watch: Watches are essentially forecasts for upcoming periods of extreme heat. Forecasters say heat watches often cover wide areas and will be revised into more focused warnings and advisories as conditions become clearer over time. Watches are a good time to prepare for extreme heat by, for example, locating a nearby cooling centers if you don’t have access to air conditioning.

    Extreme Heat Warning: Warnings are issued when heat levels are or will likely become extremely dangerous. Under extreme heat warnings, it's a good idea to avoid strenuous outdoor activity, stay hydrated and help loved ones and pets stay cool.

    Not one-size-fits-all

    Forecasters say it is important to keep Southern California’s diverse geography in mind when thinking about what these alerts mean.

    L.A. County, for example, covers beaches, valleys, mountains and deserts. Some areas have tree cover, while others are mostly concrete and asphalt. Temperatures can vary a lot between those landscapes. It might be 80 degrees near the coast when it’s 100 degrees in the desert.

    Not everywhere under a heat advisory, watch or warning will necessarily see the highest temperatures in the forecast either. But it is likely that some places within the alert area will.

    Heat is also experienced differently from community to community. For someone accustomed to living in the desert, 100-degree heat may feel different than it would for someone who lives near the beach.

    National Weather Service forecasters often consult with local emergency management, fire and public health authorities about the needs of their particular residents when deciding where and when to issue alerts.

  • Vermouth, kalimotxo and gin tonic hit LA
     Three gin tonics in stemmed glasses on a marble table, garnished with rosemary and shifting from clear to blue to deep purple.
    The three house gin tonics at Telefèric Barcelona in Long Beach, each an homage to a different region of Spain.

    Topline:

    A wave of Spanish drinking culture has been quietly landing locally — enough to build a full day of it without a passport. Try LAIE, a new California-founded Spanish vermouth, for la hora del vermut; or Wine and Cola, a canned kalimotxo that launched exclusively in L.A. this summer; or the theatrical gin tonics at Telefèric Barcelona in Long Beach, where the Ibiza pour shifts from blue to purple tableside.

    Why it matters: Spanish food has a foothold in L.A. — tapas bars are pervasive, but the drinking culture that's inseparable from it is only now arriving. Now Angelenos can actually buy, pour and enjoy classic Spanish drinks at home, as well as at bars across the city.

    Why now: With the World Cup happening and Spain among the favorites, there's no better excuse to gather friends and drink the way Spaniards do. A hot L.A. summer suits the country's chilled, low-alcohol style — refreshing, but unusual enough to keep you interested.

    When I was 16, my family moved to Madrid, where I got a crash course in Spanish culture — including a legal drinking age that happened to match my own. Lucky me. (For those wondering, it’s now 18).

    In Spain, there’s a whole rhythm to drinking; it’s less about getting drunk and more about the intentionality of what you reach for and when. A vermouth before lunch to open the appetite. And after dinner, a gin tonic, (yes, that's gin tonic, the Spanish way — not gin and tonic) nursed slowly over a long conversation. And if things get loose, a kalimotxo: red wine and Coke, the drink Spanish teenagers have been mixing in plazas since before they were legally allowed to.

    Over the last few years, a wave of Spanish drinking culture has been quietly making its way into L.A. Even José Andrés — the chef behind downtown's San Laurel, and probably the city’s most famous Spaniard — devotes a chapter of his new book, Spain, My Way, to how his countrymen drink, arguing it's inseparable from how they eat. It's a good match for L.A. too: like Spain, we have a Mediterranean climate — hot, dry summers made for chilled, low-ABV drinking.

    You can now experience those rituals I first saw in Madrid — enjoying vermouth, kalimotxo, gin tonic — at spots around town. So why not get a taste of Spain… without booking a flight?

    La hora del vermut

    A bottle of LAIE vermouth beside two cocktails — a bubbly orange spritz and a dark vermouth over ice garnished with orange and an olive.
    LAIE, a cava-based Spanish vermouth, served over ice with orange and an olive.
    (
    Brook Olsen
    /
    Courtesy LAIE
    )

    Most of us will know vermouth as the splash in a good martini. But it can be so much more than that, if you know what to drink. "It's not just a mixer… it's something you can enjoy by itself," says Alex Cardona, co-founder of a Barcelona-based vermouth company, LAIE (pronounced El-ay-yeah) with California restaurateur Raj Nallapothola.

    The traditional way to drink vermouth — or vermut — in Spain is the ritual known as la hora del vermut — the vermouth hour, a midday get-together to share the drink over a few snacks.

    There are many different kinds of vermouth, from pale, dry blanco to sweet, dark rojo. LAIE is a rojo, light in color but finishing sweet, made by a longtime family producer just outside Barcelona. It drinks like a lighter-bodied wine, blended with more than twenty botanicals. If you've ever enjoyed an Italian amaro, you're almost there.

    Serve it before lunch, over ice with an orange slice and an olive — and if you want to kick things up, a splash of gin.

    Where to get it:
    Bars:
    Santa Monica: Xuntos, Crudo E Nudo and Citrin in Santa Monica
    Highland Park: Amiga Amore and Hermon's.

    Stores:
    K&L Wines, Hi-Lo Liquor Market and Gjusta Grocer in Venice.

    Kalimotxo

    Five tall cans of Wine and Cola — Original, Diet, Cherry, Rosé, and Citrus — on a ledge with the downtown Los Angeles skyline behind them.
    Wine and Cola's five styles launched exclusively in L.A. this summer.
    (
    Courtesy Wine and Cola
    )

    In 1999, when I was a teenager in Madrid, I’d see young people in the evening filling the plazas in droves, corner-store box wine and two-liters of Coke in hand — and the municipal workers who'd hose it all down by morning, only for the scene to repeat the next weekend.

    Yes, wine and Coke, known in Spanish as kalimotxo, apparently go very well together, and dates to the ‘70s Basque Country, where festival-goers mixed spoiled wine with Coke to save it. While my taste for wine wasn’t really developed at the time, I appreciated the ingenuity of the drink for what it was.

    Now, a ready-to-drink, canned version is arriving in L.A., the straightforwardly named Wine and Cola. The brand is modernizing the kalimotxo for the U.S. market, according to CEO Dale Laflam, who works with beverage brands for a living and saw canned cocktails booming while wine sat flat. Putting a kalimotxo in a can, ready to grab from a cooler, was the obvious move.

    It's a deliberate 50-50 wine-and-cola blend, built cola-forward so it lands even if you're not a wine drinker. The cola leads, with a dry wine hum underneath. It comes in five styles — Original, Diet, Cherry, Rosé, and a citrusy one that drinks like white wine and Sprite.

    Most lean sweet, thanks to that cola-forward base; I'd have taken more cherry in the Cherry, but that's me. I found the citrus the most balanced.

    If you need more convincing, the drink's got famous fans. Lady Gaga has said her go-to is red wine and Diet Coke — a kalimotxo by any other name — and soccer's GOAT, Lionel Messi, recently copped to loving red wine with Sprite, the lighter cousin behind the citrus can.

    As Laflam puts it, the whole thing "sounds wrong, tastes right."

    Where to get it:
    Certain independent liquor stores from West Hollywood to Echo Park. Check out the list on Wine and Cola’s site.

    Gin tonic — and the art of the sobremesa

    Three colored gin tonics on a bar top with a bartender standing behind a wall of bottles.
    Bar manager Gerard Belmonte builds Telefèric's gin tonics, including the color-changing Ibiza.
    (
    Gab Chabrán
    /
    LAist
    )

    After a lovely Spanish dinner — a paella, maybe, or a chuletón with patatas and piquillo peppers — the meal doesn't really end. It eases into sobremesa, the long stretch of table time after the plates are cleared, and that's when the gin tonic arrives.

    Yes, that’s right. Spain loves their gin tonics. It isn't Spanish by birth (it was actually started by British officers in India drinking quinine-laden tonic to beat malaria), but Spain adopted it and made it a national obsession, where the drink is poured over ice in big balloon glasses and loaded with botanicals.

    At the Telefèric Barcelona resturant in Long Beach, at 2nd & PCH, with locations in California and Arizona, drinking gin tonics is a nightly ritual. It's owned by the Padrosa family, and the lineage traces back to their original location in Barcelona.

    "We always do a gin tonic after dinner," bar manager Gerard Belmonte told me. "We keep it on the table for three, four hours, talk with people. It's a good digestive, too — that's in our culture."

    Belmonte walked me through three of the house pours, each of which pays homage to a different corner of Spain. The Catalan is the driest — mostly gin and tonic, garnished with juniper, rosemary, grapefruit, and a touch of lemon for a clean, refreshing finish. The Galicia gets a blue stripe of Bombay Sapphire's edible paint brushed inside the glass, then builds on Nordés, a Galician gin with Atlantic notes, with cardamom and bay leaf. And the Ibiza — named, Belmonte says, for the island's party-and-good-vibes energy — starts with Bombay Premier Cru infused with butterfly pea tea and a touch of edible silver dust. As it's built, the drink shifts from blue to purple, shimmering like a magic potion out of Harry Potter.

    Where to get it: 
    Telefèric Barcelona, 6420 Pacific Coast Hwy, Ste. 160, Long Beach