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The Lazy Ox Burger: Lost in the Shuffle

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Photo by estarla. Used with permission.

Photo by estarla. Used with permission.
When a restaurant has 20+ items on the menu and 30+ specials on the chalkboard, who goes to Lazy Ox and orders a burger? Although most people are there looking for the baco, the burger shouldn't be ignored.

With dishes like the "morcilla sausage w/ pomme puree" (morcilla sausage mixed w/ pomme puree, served like a dip/rillette), "pig ear chicharon", pigs trotters, branzino, and "lamb cheek w/ semolina", the "Lazy Ox burger w/ carmody cheese" sounds almost normal, or even unimaginative. Far from it though.

On top of the typical gourmet burger blend (brisket, chuck, short rib), Chef Centeno adds beef suet (basically BEEF FAT/LARD!). It isn't quite the same as the flood burger, but it produces one of the best blends in town. The juiciness without the mess of a Juicy Lucy.

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And the bun? Rockenwager? La Brea Bakery? You won't find it anywhere else, because it's a secret family recipe and every bun is made in house. Topped with poppy seeds, it has the perfect meat to bun ratio and it's thick enough to absorb all the juices, and it isn't as dry as the typical brioche bun. The carmody cheese (from Cowgirl Creamery) is a great touch, a buttery cheese that makes for a great burger topping.

According to the chef, they typically sell around 40 any given week, which isn't a lot considering the fact that the place is packed every night (and open for lunch). The burger costs 13 dollars and it comes with an order of fries (normally 7 dollars by itself). Order it medium rare with the toppings (onion and lettuce) on the side, and enjoy.

The drinks aren't bad either, and Jonathan Gold says "the roster of beer is an ale freak's dream." If you need any more incentives to go, all bottles (of very reasonably priced) wines are 50% off tonight (and every Monday). They don't skimp on the coffee either, you might have to order some (French press, 4 dollars). They get their coffee from Four Barrel (former roasters from Ritual in San Francisco) and you probably won't find it anywhere else outside of San Francisco (except for the Tasting Kitchen in Venice and Danny Meyer's Maialano in New York).

Check out their menus here, and their chalkboard specials at Lazy Ox.

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