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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • A snow sports group wants the U.S. surfing team
    A beige-colored t-shirt with the phrase "Don't let surfing go in the wrong direction. Keep surf in surfing" and the USA Surfing logo. It also has an image of a surfer who appears to be riding backwards on a board.
    The backers of USA Surfing have launched a blistering p.r. campaign against their rivals, U.S. Ski and Snowboard.

    Topline:

    Two organizations, U.S. Ski and Snowboard and USA Surfing are vying for the right to represent the U.S. Olympic surf team at the 2028 Los Angeles games.

    The backstory: What’s behind the squabble over Olympic surfing? Money, mostly, including the promise of official funding and lucrative sponsorship deals that could come with one of the newest sports on the world’s most venerated stage.

    Why it matters: The Orange County surf industry and surf community were stoked when Lower Trestles was picked as the venue for competitive surfing at the LA28 games. They fear the benefits, financial and otherwise, could be diminished if the U.S. Olympic surf team is controlled by Utah-based U.S. Ski and Snowboard.

    Read on ... for more about this showdown between surfers and snow sports.

    Listen 0:45
    Why surfers and snowboarders are brawling ahead of the Olympic Games

    In a sport known for turf battles, SoCal surfing is facing perhaps its most epic turf challenge yet — all the way from the ski slopes of Utah. U.S. Ski and Snowboard, the Olympic organization for those sports, is making a bid to add surfing to its roster.

    “When you look at the heart of what we do — supporting elite athletes and growing action sports — it makes complete sense,” Sophie Goldschmidt, the head of U.S. Ski and Snowboard, told LAist in an email. “Surfing is a natural extension of our mission.” (Goldschmidt also headed the World Surf League, a pro circuit, before taking the top job at U.S. Ski and Snowboard.)

    Many surfers disagree. Ian Cairns, a former champion surfer and coach who helped develop the sport competitively, said the snow group is “ trying to ski-jack the crown jewels of surfing away from the surfing world.”

    “ Effectively what they're doing is they’re skimming the cream off the top,” Cairns said of U.S. Ski and Snowboard’s bid to become what’s known as the National Governing Body for the U.S. Olympic surfing team. “They're going to take the commercial rights and they're going to put those dollars into their infrastructure.”

    The backers of USA Surfing say they have proof that their rival U.S. Ski and Snowboard doesn't know anything about the sport of surfing: In a presentation to the Olympic committee, they used a surfing icon that appears to show a surfer facing backward on a board. The surfing organization has made it the centerpiece of their P.R. campaign against the group.

    A surfer in a mauve wetsuit and navy blue rash guard cuts back on a wave.
    San Clemente native Sawyer Lindblad surfs in the 2024 Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach on March 27, 2024 in Winkipop, Australia. Lindblad is backing USA Surfing in its bid to manage the U.S. Olympic surfing team.
    (
    Morgan Hancock
    /
    Getty Images
    )

    Cairns and a number of other pro surfers are throwing their weight behind USA Surfing, the comparatively scrappy organization that trains and develops young surfers with Olympic dreams. The San Clemente-based nonprofit — which helped make surfing an Olympic sport to begin with — is not giving up its chance to represent Olympic athletes without a fight.

    They recently launched a public relations blitz in an effort to win over Olympic leaders, who will soon decide which organization will represent the U.S. Olympic surf team at the 2028 Games in L.A. At stake is whether that team will have its home base, and the accompanying money and prestige, on the shores of San Clemente or the slopes of Park City.

    The backstory: A brief history of USA Surfing’s troubles

    Why is an organization focused on snow sports even in the running to take over Olympic surfing? Because USA Surfing has had a tough run of late.

    Back in 2017, USA Surfing became the national governing body for the sport of surfing, charged with training young surfers, developing the sport, and nominating athletes to compete on the Olympic stage. But they lost that status shortly after the sport made its Olympic debut, in the 2021 Tokyo summer games.

    That’s because in 2019, the U.S. Olympic and Paralympic Committee audited USA Surfing and found numerous problems, including failing to disclose conflicts of interest. The audit also found minimal documentation and oversight of how the organization’s leaders were spending its money. As a result, USA Surfing voluntarily agreed to relinquish its control over the U.S. Olympic surf team until after the 2024 Paris games.

    Despite the turmoil, the U.S. surfing team won gold medals at both games — Carissa Moore in Tokyo and Caroline Marks in Paris (in case you missed it, the actual surfing took place in Tahiti).

    During all that time, and to date, USA Surfing has been training Olympic hopefuls and holding competitions at Lower Trestles in San Clemente — the same place surfers will compete in the LA28 games.

    And USA Surfing now has entirely new management. CEO Becky Fleischauer told LAist the organization has done all the things the Olympic committee said it needed to in order to regain its role as the National Governing Body, including adopting financial best practices, improving transparency, and showing financial stability.

    Fleischauer called the surfing competition at the 2028 games a “legacy building opportunity.” “We want the Olympics to provide the lift to the surfers, the community, the businesses, and our program,” she said.

    Despite the high stakes, Fleischauer declined to diss on U.S. Ski and Snowboard and their bid to intrude on the local surf turf.

    “ We never really wanted to be in an antagonistic position with another sport that athletes work really hard to do,” she said.

    A man, smiling, in a neck brace wearing a hat that reads "Don't let surfing go in the wrong direction."
    Ian Cairns, a former surfing champion and coach, is among those campaigning for USA Surfing to oversee the entire pipeline of U.S. competitive surfing, including the U.S. Olympic surfing team. (And yes, that neck brace is the result of a surfing accident.)
    (
    Jill Replogle
    /
    LAist
    )

    What’s this really all about?

    For most of the public, the Olympics are a national ego-boosting spectacle and a chance to watch athletes and sports that usually don’t get much play in the mainstream media. But the Olympics are also big business.

    For one thing, there are sponsorships from companies that want their name associated with popular sports and winning athletes. For another, national governing bodies for Olympic sports get money directly from the Olympic committee. Both US Ski and Snowboard and USA Surfing acknowledge that money is part of their motivation.

    For the winter sports group, adding surfing would free them from their seasonal confines. “From a commercial perspective adding a summer sport to our winter sport portfolio gives us year-round assets and programming to sell,” US Ski and Snowboarding wrote in its official bid to absorb Olympic surfing. (Goldschmidt told LAist that U.S. Ski and Snowboard also is interested in assuming control over Olympic skateboarding.)

    If that happens, USA Surfing would essentially continue to do most of the work to develop and support the nation’s top surfers without reaping the benefits of representing them at the world’s most venerated competition.

    “ It would siphon money and opportunity,” Fleischauer, from USA Surfing, said of the possibility of permanently losing control over Olympic surfing.

    On the flip side, she said, “We've talked to sponsors who would support us at another level if we were the national governing body.”

    Of course, there are those who wish surfing had remained the weird, counter-culture activity it once was, out of the limelight, anti-commercial. But that ship sailed long ago.

    Today, surfing is a $9 billion industry, according to an article published earlier this year in the Orange County Business Journal. And many of the top brands have their roots in Orange County. They also stand to benefit if USA Surfing wins its Olympic bid, said Vipe Desai, executive director of the Surf Industry Members Association, a trade group.

    “This is about local jobs, the local economy, local businesses,” Desai said. “If this money gets transferred out of state to another region, it's not going to support the business and the culture.”

    Big snow, big money

    Financially, U.S. Ski and Snowboard is a goliath compared to USA Surfing. The snow group took in over $38 million in revenue in 2024 compared to less than $900,000 for USA Surfing, according to tax statements. But that’s at least in part because U.S. Ski and Snowboard has 10 Olympic sports in its current portfolio with dozens of athletes.

    Goldschmidt, the head of U.S. Ski and Snowboard, said the group’s robust infrastructure, including high-tech training facilities and “commercial support” for athletes (read: sponsorships) would benefit elite surfers.

    “I respect the passion and pride that people have within the surf community," Goldschmidt wrote in an email to LAist. “This isn’t about taking anything away — it’s about adding to what’s already been built.”

    Growing support for USA Surfing

    As the date nears for a decision from the U.S. Olympic and Paralympic Committee, USA Surfing has garnered some key support for its bid. In June, they announced a multi-million dollar investment from San Clemente-based businessman Kipling Sheppard, intended to kickstart an endowment for the organization.

    “Our motivation is simple,” Sheppard said. “It's to keep surfing with the surf community and those that are involved in it day-to-day and make sure that the Olympic ‘lift’ that will occur here in San Clemente benefits the people and the community of San Clemente.”

    The International Surfing Association, which is recognized by the International Olympic Committee as the authority on competitive surfing, is also backing USA Surfing. That’s key because surfers have to surf in ISA competitions to qualify for the Olympics. Perhaps an even bigger snub: The World Surf League, Goldschmidt’s former organization, is also backing USA Surfing.

    USA Surfing has also clinched a bunch of letters of support from local leaders, including a group of U.S. Congress members, O.C. Supervisor Katrina Foley, and the San Clemente City Council. And they have support from some of the nation’s top surfers. Sawyer Lindblad was among a group of pro surfers who showed up at a San Clemente City Council meeting in August to ask for support for USA Surfing. Lindblad, a San Clemente native, was fresh off her first place win, two days earlier, at the 2025 US Open of Surfing in Huntington Beach.

    “ I don't think I would be as successful as I am without them,” Lindblad said of USA Surfing. “ It truly shaped me into the surfer I am today.”

     Kirra Pinkerton, another San Clemente native and the 2022 International Surfing Association World Champion, is also throwing her support behind USA Surfing.  “Obviously all of our goals eventually is to qualify for the Olympics,” she said. “I believe the best way to do that is to stick to what our roots are.”

    Asked whether fellow athletes might appreciate the bigger platform and deeper coffers offered by U.S. Ski and Snowboard, Pinkerton said she doubted the snow sports group would find much support in the water.

    “ Surfers will back surfers forever,” she said.

    The ultimate decision about which of the two groups will represent surfers on the world stage is up to the U.S. Olympic and Paralympic Committee. They’re expected to hold their second and final public hearing on the issue later this month, although the exact date hasn’t been set.

    CORRECTION: An earlier version of this story incorrectly stated that USA Surfing had lost its status as the national governing body for Olympic surfing prior to the 2021 Tokyo games.

  • Local governance could return in 2027
    Five people stand behind a lectern with the words Inglewood Unified School District in green letters. Three women and a man have dark skin tone and one man has medium light skin tone.
    The Inglewood Board of Education, from left, Margaret Evans, Brandon Myers, Carliss McGhee, Joyce Randall and Ernesto Castillo, will regain decision-making power when the district exits receivership.

    Topline:

    Inglewood Unified is one step closer to independence more than a decade after the state took over the school district amid a financial crisis.

    Why now: A July state report found the district has improved its financial and facilities management enough to operate independently. If Inglewood maintains this progress, the district could regain local control in 2027 with some guardrails.

    The backstory: In 2012, the Inglewood Unified Board of Trustees requested a multimillion-dollar loan from the state to balance its budget. The district ultimately borrowed $29 million and entered receivership as a condition of the loan. Inglewood’s board lost the power to make decisions and an administrator was appointed, first by the state, and later by the L.A. County Office of Education.

    Why it matters: During the receivership, the locally elected board has been able to advise, but not have a final say on decisions on everything from the budget to school closures. “It created anxiety about who and what is being served with these decisions,” said Board Member Ernesto Castillo. “ Now moving forward, the district and the community knows that the board is going to make decisions on behalf of their voters, on behalf of their students or their families, and I think that's going to help regain trust.”

    What's next: California’s Fiscal Crisis and Management Assistance Team (FCMAT) will return to conduct another evaluation of the district next year. If Inglewood maintains or improves its scores, the county can return power to the board. However, an assigned trustee will have the power to reverse board decisions until the district pays off the initial state loan and passes an external audit.

    Read on ... to learn more about how this could change the district.

    Inglewood Unified is one step closer to independence more than a decade after the state took over the school district amid a financial crisis.

    A July report found the district has improved its financial and facilities management enough to operate independently. If Inglewood maintains this progress, the district could regain local control in 2027 with some guardrails.

    “They've met the standards that really demonstrate we have strong systems in place, sound financial management, that the district is operating effectively so that students can learn and thrive and do well,” Debra Duardo, Los Angeles County Superintendent of Schools, told LAist.

    The county, which has authority over the 6,000-student school district, announced the news that the district had met 153 standards at a press conference Thursday at City Honors International Preparatory High.

    James Morris, who has served as the county-appointed administrator for the district since 2023, said one example of a change the district has made is setting up a system to monitor utility bills.

    “This is an achievement that was built by people, not just spreadsheets,” Morris said. “Our teachers, our classified staff, our labor partners, community partners, have all been working hard for 14 years.”

    The backstory

    In 2012, the Inglewood Unified Board of Trustees requested a multimillion-dollar loan from the state to balance its budget.

    A state report said the district’s financial insolvency had been created by overstatement of attendance (which is the basis for state funding), understatement of salary costs, deficit spending and declining enrollment among other factors.

    The district ultimately borrowed $29 million and became one of only 10 school districts in the state to enter receivership since 1990 as a condition of an emergency loan. Inglewood’s board lost the power to make decisions and an administrator was appointed, first by the state, and later by the L.A. County Office of Education.

    Ernesto Castillo was a senior at City Honors when the district was placed under receivership.

    “It was a really scary time, and it felt that I was leaving a sinking ship when I graduated,” Castillo, who’s now a member of the district’s board, said. “To see it still kind of flounder for years under state control was really disappointing and disheartening, especially as it affected my cousins, it affected the residents of my community.”

    John Hughes has been an educator in the district for nearly three decades and is the president of the Inglewood Teachers Association.

    “ When you have an outside entity's scrutiny, I think it creates a feeling among educators of a lack of autonomy,” Hughes said. “But also a lack of a voice to be heard with the real needs that they're experiencing day to day.”

    A woman with dark skin tone and glasses wears a gray cardigan and smiles.
    Marcie Brown, vice president of the Inglewood Council of PTAs, said the most recent county-appointed administrator, has been more transparent with the community.
    (
    Mariana Dale
    /
    LAist
    )

    Marcie Brown, vice president of the Inglewood Council of PTAs, said the receivership created a negative perception of the district that obscured the rich experience that her grandchildren had in the district.

    “ We heard all the buzzwords, underdeveloped, underprivileged. I'm like, ‘We never accepted any of those words at all,’” Brown said. “Our children got to … live large regardless.”

    Castillo, the board member, said it was challenging for the board not to have the final say on the decisions such as closing five schools in 2025.

    “It created anxiety about who and what is being served with these decisions,” Castillo said. “ Now moving forward, the district and the community knows that the board is gonna make decisions on behalf of their voters, on behalf of their students or their families, and I think that's gonna help regain trust.”

    Inglewood Unified’s road to recovery

    Fiscal Crisis and Management Assistance Team (FCMAT), the California agency that supports public schools' financial and business practices, has evaluated Inglewood Unified across five areas since 2013:

    • Community relations and governance 
    • Personnel management
    • Pupil achievement
    • Financial management 
    • Facilities management

    The first step for the district to exit receivership is to meet 153 standards that touch on everything from budget development to data collection.

    Michael Fine, FCMAT’s CEO, said most districts exit this phase within six years.

    “ Inglewood's a bit unique in that it has been in phase one since inception,” Fine said.

    How Inglewood families can get involved in the district’s future

    Join a parent teacher group (PTA) at your child’s school 

    • “ The parent involvement is the key,” said John Hughes, a longtime Inglewood educator. “That's where schools are held accountable…and you see the difference.” 

    Watch or attend a board meeting

    • Even though the board doesn’t currently oversee the district directly, these meetings are where important decisions about finances, curriculum, school safety and other topics are discussed. Community members can also make public comments. The schedule, agendas and livestream are posted online.

    We also have more tips in our guide to school family engagement.

    The district cycled through several external administrators appointed by the state before a change in the law transferred oversight to the county in 2018.

    “ Leadership turnover is really detrimental to a district,” Duardo, the County Superintendent, said. “You have to have leaders that are gonna stick around and know the community and know the staff and be able to do the work.”

    The district met the FCMAT standards for community relations and governance in 2023 and personnel and student achievement in 2025.

    The district met the standards in the last two areas— financial and facilities management— in the most recent report released this month.

    What’s next

    FCMAT will return to conduct another evaluation of the district next year. If Inglewood maintains or improves its scores, the county can return power to the board.

    However, an assigned trustee will have the power to reverse board decisions until the district pays off the initial state loan and passes an external audit.

    FCMAT’s most recent evaluation also outlines remaining challenges, including continued deficit spending and declining enrollment.

    “ If in receivership, with all this extra assistance and focus, they're not balancing their budget, then what happens when those extra protections disappear?” Fine asked.

  • Sponsored message
  • LA plans to put 4,300 families on new vouchers
    A "for rent" sign hangs outside a Los Angeles apartment building.
    A "for rent" sign hangs outside a Los Angeles apartment building.

    Topline:

    Los Angeles housing officials say they’ve averted a crisis that could have put thousands of families at risk of homelessness by the start of 2027.

    The backstory: During the COVID-19 pandemic, thousands of low-income Angelenos moved into apartments with the help of federally funded emergency housing vouchers. More than 4,300 households in the city and county still rely on those vouchers to subsidize their rents.

    The problem: L.A. officials have warned that federal funding to support the emergency program will dry up at the end of December 2026, potentially leading to evictions and homelessness for tenants unable to pay the full rent on their units.

    What’s new: On Thursday, city and county housing authorities announced that increased federal funding and improved local budgets will now allow all emergency housing voucher holders.

    Los Angeles housing officials say they’ve averted a crisis that could have put thousands of families at risk of homelessness by the start of 2027.

    During the COVID-19 pandemic, thousands of low-income Angelenos moved into apartments with the help of federally funded emergency housing vouchers. More than 4,300 households in the city and county still rely on those vouchers to subsidize their rents.

    But L.A. officials have warned that federal funding to support this program will dry up at the end of December 2026, potentially leading to evictions and homelessness for tenants unable to pay the full rent on their units.

    On Thursday, city and county housing authorities announced that increased federal funding and improved local budgets will now allow all emergency housing voucher holders to transition out of the temporary pandemic program and into the traditional Housing Choice Voucher program, widely known as Section 8.

    “This is housing for the long term for these families,” said Marcie Vega, director of assisted housing programs for the Housing Authority of the City of L.A.

    How many families are affected?

    The city’s housing authority oversees leases for more than 2,700 emergency housing vouchers. The county’s housing authority oversees another 1,600.

    Officials say as long as participants still qualify for federal housing aid, they will be able to stay in their current homes without having to complete an onerous amount of paperwork.

    “The housing authority is doing the administrative work to transition these families over,” Vega said, noting that the plan is to complete the transition by September.

    Tenant advocates who work with renters on the temporary program say the news will ease a lot of anxiety.

    “Folks we've been hearing from are in desperate panic,” said Manuel Villagomez, an attorney with the Legal Aid Foundation of Los Angeles. “It's a huge relief.”

    How voucher programs work

    Participants use these vouchers to find apartments on the private rental market, which can be a challenge given how many L.A. landlords are reluctant to accept them.

    Tenants typically pay about 30% of their income toward their rent, with vouchers covering the rest.

    The number of renters with incomes low enough to qualify for a voucher is far larger than the amount of vouchers L.A. housing authorities can offer.

    Cities rarely open their waitlists, and they often pick applicants by lottery for a spot on the list. Once tenants are on the list, they can wait for years before getting a voucher.

  • Making sense of advisories, watches and warnings
    A man holds a water bottle while hiking at sunset in Los Angeles, California
    When forecasters use words like "watch," advisory" and "warning," they have specific meanings.

    Topline:

    Much of Southern California is under a heat advisory this week and an extreme heat watch next week. What do those terms mean?

    The details: Heat advisories are issued when temperatures are hot enough to cause discomfort and potentially lead to heat-related illnesses. Extreme heat watches are essentially forecasts for upcoming periods of potentially dangerous heat. Extreme heat warnings are issued leading up to and during periods of dangerously high temperatures.

    Why it matters: A heat wave is settling into Southern California this week, with temperatures in some parts of the region to hit the triple digits. Even more extreme temperatures are expected for L.A. County next week. The Coachella Valley is already experiencing potentially dangerous heat, with highs approaching 115 degrees on Friday.

    Why now: Southern Californians are used to hot summer weather, but heat waves are getting hotter, longer and more frequent as the climate changes. National Weather Service forecasters also changed the words they use to describe extreme heat last year.

    Read on ... for details.

    It’s hot out there, and it’s only going to get hotter.

    National Weather Service forecasters issued a slew of alerts this week as a heat wave settles into Southern California with even hotter weather right around the corner.

    A heat advisory is in effect until Tuesday for much of the region, with triple-digit temperatures expected in some places. Then, from Tuesday through Thursday, July 16, L.A. County and its neighbors to the north are under a more severe extreme heat watch.

    An extreme weather warning is already in place for the Coachella Valley, where highs are expected to approach 115 degrees on Friday.

    Southern Californians are no strangers to hot weather in the summer, but heat waves are getting hotter, longer and more frequent as the climate changes.

    And the words forecasters use to describe these weather events has changed too. The NWS rolled out new heat alert language last year after the previous summer broke records for the hottest in U.S. history.

    So, what exactly triggers these heat alerts? And what should you do about them? Here’s a guide:

    Heat Advisory: Advisories are issued when temperatures are expected to be hot enough to cause discomfort and potentially lead to heat-related illnesses, especially for more vulnerable populations like young children and the elderly. During a heat advisory, consider staying in a cool place and limiting outside activity, especially during the day. For those who spend time outside, be sure to drink plenty of water and take breaks in the shade.

    Extreme Heat Watch: Watches are essentially forecasts for upcoming periods of extreme heat. Forecasters say heat watches often cover wide areas and will be revised into more focused warnings and advisories as conditions become clearer over time. Watches are a good time to prepare for extreme heat by, for example, locating a nearby cooling centers if you don’t have access to air conditioning.

    Extreme Heat Warning: Warnings are issued when heat levels are or will likely become extremely dangerous. Under extreme heat warnings, it's a good idea to avoid strenuous outdoor activity, stay hydrated and help loved ones and pets stay cool.

    Not one-size-fits-all

    Forecasters say it is important to keep Southern California’s diverse geography in mind when thinking about what these alerts mean.

    L.A. County, for example, covers beaches, valleys, mountains and deserts. Some areas have tree cover, while others are mostly concrete and asphalt. Temperatures can vary a lot between those landscapes. It might be 80 degrees near the coast when it’s 100 degrees in the desert.

    Not everywhere under a heat advisory, watch or warning will necessarily see the highest temperatures in the forecast either. But it is likely that some places within the alert area will.

    Heat is also experienced differently from community to community. For someone accustomed to living in the desert, 100-degree heat may feel different than it would for someone who lives near the beach.

    National Weather Service forecasters often consult with local emergency management, fire and public health authorities about the needs of their particular residents when deciding where and when to issue alerts.

  • Vermouth, kalimotxo and gin tonic hit LA
     Three gin tonics in stemmed glasses on a marble table, garnished with rosemary and shifting from clear to blue to deep purple.
    The three house gin tonics at Telefèric Barcelona in Long Beach, each an homage to a different region of Spain.

    Topline:

    A wave of Spanish drinking culture has been quietly landing locally — enough to build a full day of it without a passport. Try LAIE, a new California-founded Spanish vermouth, for la hora del vermut; or Wine and Cola, a canned kalimotxo that launched exclusively in L.A. this summer; or the theatrical gin tonics at Telefèric Barcelona in Long Beach, where the Ibiza pour shifts from blue to purple tableside.

    Why it matters: Spanish food has a foothold in L.A. — tapas bars are pervasive, but the drinking culture that's inseparable from it is only now arriving. Now Angelenos can actually buy, pour and enjoy classic Spanish drinks at home, as well as at bars across the city.

    Why now: With the World Cup happening and Spain among the favorites, there's no better excuse to gather friends and drink the way Spaniards do. A hot L.A. summer suits the country's chilled, low-alcohol style — refreshing, but unusual enough to keep you interested.

    When I was 16, my family moved to Madrid, where I got a crash course in Spanish culture — including a legal drinking age that happened to match my own. Lucky me. (For those wondering, it’s now 18).

    In Spain, there’s a whole rhythm to drinking; it’s less about getting drunk and more about the intentionality of what you reach for and when. A vermouth before lunch to open the appetite. And after dinner, a gin tonic, (yes, that's gin tonic, the Spanish way — not gin and tonic) nursed slowly over a long conversation. And if things get loose, a kalimotxo: red wine and Coke, the drink Spanish teenagers have been mixing in plazas since before they were legally allowed to.

    Over the last few years, a wave of Spanish drinking culture has been quietly making its way into L.A. Even José Andrés — the chef behind downtown's San Laurel, and probably the city’s most famous Spaniard — devotes a chapter of his new book, Spain, My Way, to how his countrymen drink, arguing it's inseparable from how they eat. It's a good match for L.A. too: like Spain, we have a Mediterranean climate — hot, dry summers made for chilled, low-ABV drinking.

    You can now experience those rituals I first saw in Madrid — enjoying vermouth, kalimotxo, gin tonic — at spots around town. So why not get a taste of Spain… without booking a flight?

    La hora del vermut

    A bottle of LAIE vermouth beside two cocktails — a bubbly orange spritz and a dark vermouth over ice garnished with orange and an olive.
    LAIE, a cava-based Spanish vermouth, served over ice with orange and an olive.
    (
    Brook Olsen
    /
    Courtesy LAIE
    )

    Most of us will know vermouth as the splash in a good martini. But it can be so much more than that, if you know what to drink. "It's not just a mixer… it's something you can enjoy by itself," says Alex Cardona, co-founder of a Barcelona-based vermouth company, LAIE (pronounced El-ay-yeah) with California restaurateur Raj Nallapothola.

    The traditional way to drink vermouth — or vermut — in Spain is the ritual known as la hora del vermut — the vermouth hour, a midday get-together to share the drink over a few snacks.

    There are many different kinds of vermouth, from pale, dry blanco to sweet, dark rojo. LAIE is a rojo, light in color but finishing sweet, made by a longtime family producer just outside Barcelona. It drinks like a lighter-bodied wine, blended with more than twenty botanicals. If you've ever enjoyed an Italian amaro, you're almost there.

    Serve it before lunch, over ice with an orange slice and an olive — and if you want to kick things up, a splash of gin.

    Where to get it:
    Bars:
    Santa Monica: Xuntos, Crudo E Nudo and Citrin in Santa Monica
    Highland Park: Amiga Amore and Hermon's.

    Stores:
    K&L Wines, Hi-Lo Liquor Market and Gjusta Grocer in Venice.

    Kalimotxo

    Five tall cans of Wine and Cola — Original, Diet, Cherry, Rosé, and Citrus — on a ledge with the downtown Los Angeles skyline behind them.
    Wine and Cola's five styles launched exclusively in L.A. this summer.
    (
    Courtesy Wine and Cola
    )

    In 1999, when I was a teenager in Madrid, I’d see young people in the evening filling the plazas in droves, corner-store box wine and two-liters of Coke in hand — and the municipal workers who'd hose it all down by morning, only for the scene to repeat the next weekend.

    Yes, wine and Coke, known in Spanish as kalimotxo, apparently go very well together, and dates to the ‘70s Basque Country, where festival-goers mixed spoiled wine with Coke to save it. While my taste for wine wasn’t really developed at the time, I appreciated the ingenuity of the drink for what it was.

    Now, a ready-to-drink, canned version is arriving in L.A., the straightforwardly named Wine and Cola. The brand is modernizing the kalimotxo for the U.S. market, according to CEO Dale Laflam, who works with beverage brands for a living and saw canned cocktails booming while wine sat flat. Putting a kalimotxo in a can, ready to grab from a cooler, was the obvious move.

    It's a deliberate 50-50 wine-and-cola blend, built cola-forward so it lands even if you're not a wine drinker. The cola leads, with a dry wine hum underneath. It comes in five styles — Original, Diet, Cherry, Rosé, and a citrusy one that drinks like white wine and Sprite.

    Most lean sweet, thanks to that cola-forward base; I'd have taken more cherry in the Cherry, but that's me. I found the citrus the most balanced.

    If you need more convincing, the drink's got famous fans. Lady Gaga has said her go-to is red wine and Diet Coke — a kalimotxo by any other name — and soccer's GOAT, Lionel Messi, recently copped to loving red wine with Sprite, the lighter cousin behind the citrus can.

    As Laflam puts it, the whole thing "sounds wrong, tastes right."

    Where to get it:
    Certain independent liquor stores from West Hollywood to Echo Park. Check out the list on Wine and Cola’s site.

    Gin tonic — and the art of the sobremesa

    Three colored gin tonics on a bar top with a bartender standing behind a wall of bottles.
    Bar manager Gerard Belmonte builds Telefèric's gin tonics, including the color-changing Ibiza.
    (
    Gab Chabrán
    /
    LAist
    )

    After a lovely Spanish dinner — a paella, maybe, or a chuletón with patatas and piquillo peppers — the meal doesn't really end. It eases into sobremesa, the long stretch of table time after the plates are cleared, and that's when the gin tonic arrives.

    Yes, that’s right. Spain loves their gin tonics. It isn't Spanish by birth (it was actually started by British officers in India drinking quinine-laden tonic to beat malaria), but Spain adopted it and made it a national obsession, where the drink is poured over ice in big balloon glasses and loaded with botanicals.

    At the Telefèric Barcelona resturant in Long Beach, at 2nd & PCH, with locations in California and Arizona, drinking gin tonics is a nightly ritual. It's owned by the Padrosa family, and the lineage traces back to their original location in Barcelona.

    "We always do a gin tonic after dinner," bar manager Gerard Belmonte told me. "We keep it on the table for three, four hours, talk with people. It's a good digestive, too — that's in our culture."

    Belmonte walked me through three of the house pours, each of which pays homage to a different corner of Spain. The Catalan is the driest — mostly gin and tonic, garnished with juniper, rosemary, grapefruit, and a touch of lemon for a clean, refreshing finish. The Galicia gets a blue stripe of Bombay Sapphire's edible paint brushed inside the glass, then builds on Nordés, a Galician gin with Atlantic notes, with cardamom and bay leaf. And the Ibiza — named, Belmonte says, for the island's party-and-good-vibes energy — starts with Bombay Premier Cru infused with butterfly pea tea and a touch of edible silver dust. As it's built, the drink shifts from blue to purple, shimmering like a magic potion out of Harry Potter.

    Where to get it: 
    Telefèric Barcelona, 6420 Pacific Coast Hwy, Ste. 160, Long Beach