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The most important stories for you to know today
  • Tariffs aren't slowing it down, but pinch is felt
    A port with large cranes over stacks of storage containers on ships.
    A cargo ship moves into its place as it docks at the Port of Long Beach in Long Beach, Wednesday, Sept. 10, 2025.

    Topline:

    Despite taxes on imports at levels not seen in a century, Long Beach’s seaport had a good year in 2025. And a decent January.

    More details: Port officials said Wednesday they started the new year by leading the nation in trade, responsible for moving more than 847,000 shipping containers in January — 51% of the total cargo at the San Pedro Bay Complex, which it shares with neighboring Port of Los Angeles.

    Why it matters: Many companies managed to avoid price increases last year in part by stockpiling inventory in the first half of the year to be sold through Christmas and the start of the year. As stock dwindles, many businesses might be less willing to eat the cost of a new set of tariffs.

    Read on... for more about on the Long Beach Port.

    Despite taxes on imports at levels not seen in a century, Long Beach’s seaport had a good year in 2025. And a decent January.

    Port officials said Wednesday they started the new year by leading the nation in trade, responsible for moving more than 847,000 shipping containers in January — 51% of the total cargo at the San Pedro Bay Complex, which it shares with neighboring Port of Los Angeles.

    In a call with reporters, Port CEO Noel Hacegaba said that despite a “fair share of doom and gloom” at the time, the seaport finished 2025 as its busiest year on record.

    This comes days after President Donald Trump signed new, across-the-board tariffs on U.S. trading partners, and later added he would raise the tariffs to 15%. It’s a direct response to a recent Supreme Court decision that found his tariffs announced last April were unconstitutional.

    The new tariffs would operate under a law that restricts them to 150 days, unless approved by Congress.

    Asked to measure how much this will affect the seaport, traders, logistics companies and consumers, Hacegaba reiterated a word he has evoked heavily in the past 10 months: uncertainty.

    “Our strong cargo volumes do not suggest we are not being affected by tariffs,” Hacegaba said, adding the Port saw a 13% decline in imports driven by major reductions in iron, steel, synthetic fibers, salt, sulfur and cement.

    Economists are somewhat more confident, saying it would take nothing short of a national economic crisis to reverse the seaport’s fortunes. “Even if the market is affected, our standing at the Port of Long Beach, even compared to other ports, is strong,” said Laura Gonzalez, an economics professor at Cal State Long Beach.

    But experts caution that the ruling will heap the most damage on businesses, especially smaller enterprises, as well as the average consumer who already bore the tariff’s costs last year.

    A man with medium skin tone, wearing a black suit and blue tie, speaks on a stage with a large monitor showing him in the backgorund.
    Noel Hacegaba, CEO of the Port of Long Beach, held his first State of the Port in Long Beach on Thursday, Jan. 15, 2026.
    (
    Thomas R. Cordova
    /
    Long Beach Post
    )

    Tariffs added $1,700 in costs to the average U.S. household, as importers raised prices to offset higher import taxes — especially on clothes, shoes and electronics from China and other Southeast Asian nations.

    Consumers, Gonzalez said, should budget over the next six months “for essentials.”

    Priyaranjan Jha, an economics professor at UC Irvine, said historically trade policies since 2018 have shown that for every dollar of duty imposed, consumer prices rose by about 90 cents.

    Even if tariffs are reduced or reversed, and pressure is relieved on importers, consumers shouldn’t expect lower sticker prices right away, he said. “Firms do not always reduce prices as quickly as they raise them, especially if contracts or inventories are involved.”

    Richer San, a former banker and business owner in Long Beach, said he’s in regular talks with shops across the city’s historic Cambodia Town that have been crushed by the increased prices of imported ingredients.

    “Most of these are family-owned businesses operating on very small profit margins,” he said, adding there is little to no margin to “absorb higher costs.”

    Many companies managed to avoid price increases last year in part by stockpiling inventory in the first half of the year to be sold through Christmas and the start of the year. As stock dwindles, many businesses might be less willing to eat the cost of a new set of tariffs.

    Marc Sullivan, president of Long Beach-based Global Trade and Customs, said his logistics company saw a brief boom last year in ordered goods, mostly medical equipment and pharmaceuticals.

    But by June, orders dropped 35%, a trend that continues today. It’s forced him to freeze any new hiring in the past year and at least through the next six months as he waits for federal officials to settle on tariffs that will determine the cost of shipped goods.

    “For the companies that I work with that are importing into the state here, it’s just ‘hold on and let’s see what happens,’” he said.

    “I’d like to hire a salesperson to go out and chase new business, … but it’s just a bleak outlook,” he added.

    In the interim, he’s received a steady flow of calls (that started “within minutes” of the ruling) from importers looking to claim refunds or recoup their tariff expenses. The U.S. Treasury had collected more than $140 billion from tariffs enacted under emergency powers, and the Supreme Court left the decision of how to appropriate the refund proceedings to lower courts.

    His response: They might be stuck waiting for a while. “Customs doesn’t pay anything back quickly,” he said. “It could be a year before you ever see anything back to you.”

    Sullivan said he knows of companies that spent upwards of $20,000 per shipment for months.

    “They’re going to want that money to be able to reinvest it,” Sullivan said.

    But some experts say that consumers, as well as small businesses, deserve a share of refunds.

    “The importer may receive a refund even though consumers bore much of the cost,” Jha said. “Courts generally refund the statutory payer, not downstream buyers, but that opens the possibility of follow-on litigation. Small businesses that directly imported goods and paid tariffs should qualify for refunds.”

  • The Inglewood restaurant wins award
    A woman with dark skin tone, wearing a black t-shirt, smiles as she types into a computer in a restaurant. People are visible from the kitchen window.
    The Serving Spoon has been an Inglewood cornerstone for four decades, dishing up grilled corn bread and fried turkey chops.

    Topline:

    The Serving Spoon has been an Inglewood cornerstone for four decades, dishing up grilled corn bread and fried turkey chops. Now, though, the whole country is in on the secret.

    More details: The breakfast and lunch spot on Centinela Avenue was announced Wednesday by the James Beard Foundation as one of six winners of the America’s Classics Award, an honor the foundation says goes to “timeless” local institutions. The foundation is also responsible for the James Beard Award, one of the nation’s top culinary honors.

    Other winners: The Serving Spoon joins a pantheon of other L.A.-area eateries to win the classics award including Guelaguetza, Langer’s Deli and Philippe the Original.

    Read on... for more about the restaurant.

    This story first appeared on The LA Local.

    The Serving Spoon has been an Inglewood cornerstone for four decades, dishing up grilled corn bread and fried turkey chops. 

    Now, though, the whole country is in on the secret. 

    The breakfast and lunch spot on Centinela Avenue was announced Wednesday by the James Beard Foundation as one of six winners of the America’s Classics Award, an honor the foundation says goes to “timeless” local institutions. The foundation is also responsible for the James Beard Award, one of the nation’s top culinary honors. 

    The Serving Spoon joins a pantheon of other L.A.-area eateries to win the classics award including Guelaguetza, Langer’s Deli and Philippe the Original. 

    Jessica Bane, part of the third generation to run the family-owned restaurant, said the honor is still sinking in, but that it validates decades of work. “It’s being done out of love,” Bane said.

    A low angle view of signage on a poll outside that reads "The Serving Spoon. Restaurant."
    The Serving Spoon has been an Inglewood cornerstone for four decades, dishing up grilled corn bread and fried turkey chops.
    (
    Isaiah Murtaugh
    /
    The LA Local
    )

    The award announcement hailed The Serving Spoon as an “anchor” of L.A.’s Black community, run by staff who genuinely care for their customers.“The restaurant is cherished for its joyful hospitality and as a place where all can gather and feel at home,” the announcement read. 

    The Serving Spoon didn’t exactly need Beard recognition — the diner is often packed and already has  pedigree as Snoop Dogg and Raphael Saadiq’s breakfast spot of choice in the 2000 Lucy Pearl song “You” — but Bane said the award takes the diner’s reputation national.“The recognition is beyond appreciated,” Bane said. 

    The Serving Spoon was founded in 1983 by Bane’s grandfather, Harold E. Sparks. He passed the restaurant down to Bane and her brother, Justin Johnson, through their parents. 

    The menu looks much the same as it did four decades ago, Bane said, though some of the dishes have been renamed for regulars. 

    During the Thursday lunch rush a day after the announcement, The Serving Spoon’s vinyl booths were packed, as usual. Bane oversaw the dining room while Johnson marshaled plates of fried catfish through the kitchen. 

    Tina and Kevin Jenkins waited for a table outside. The L.A. natives each have been coming to The Serving Spoon since childhood. They live in Lancaster now, but make sure to come back to the diner whenever they’re in town. 

    “It’s the atmosphere, our people, our music,” Tina Jenkins said.

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  • Three-flippered turtle swims free after rescue.
    A sea turtle in a holding tank looks at the camera. She is missing her right front flipper.
    This green sea turtle, nicknamed Porkchop, had to have her flipper amputated after being rescued by aquarium staff from a tangle of fishing line in the San Gabriel River. She has since recovered and will be released back to the wild soon.

    Topline:

    Porkchop, a three-flippered green sea turtle that was rescued nearly a year ago after becoming severely entangled in fishing line and debris in the San Gabriel River, was released back to the wild today.

    A long turtle lineage: Dubbed “Porkchop” by aquarium staff due to her hefty appetite, the young female green sea turtle represents one of seven sea turtle species worldwide (six of which occur in U.S. waters). These animals have called our oceans home since at least the time of the dinosaurs — about 110 million years ago, according to NOAA.

    Porkchop’s healing journey: Aquarium vets had to amputate Porkchop’s right front flipper after tangled fishing lines severely cut off her blood flow. She also had a fishing hook removed from her throat. First rescued after being spotted in the San Gabriel River by volunteers with the aquarium’s sea turtle monitoring program last March, her healing journey took nearly a year.

    Keep reading...for more on Porkchop the sea turtle and her release back to the wild.

    Topline:

    Porkchop, a three-flippered green sea turtle that was rescued nearly a year ago after becoming severely entangled in fishing line and debris in the San Gabriel River, was released back to the wild Friday.

    A long turtle lineage: Dubbed “Porkchop” by aquarium staff due to her hefty appetite, the young female green sea turtle represents one of seven sea turtle species worldwide (six of which occur in U.S. waters). These animals have called our oceans home since at least the time of the dinosaurs — about 110 million years ago, according to NOAA. All species of sea turtles found in the U.S. are listed as either endangered or threatened and are protected by the Endangered Species Act.

    Porkchop’s healing journey: Aquarium vets had to amputate Porkchop’s right front flipper after tangled fishing lines severely cut off her blood flow. She also had a fishing hook removed from her throat. First rescued after being spotted in the San Gabriel River by volunteers with the aquarium’s sea turtle monitoring program last March, her healing journey took nearly a year. She now swims and eats as well as her four-flippered kin and after a final physical exam, blood sample and X-ray, vets determined she was ready to return to her wild roots. She also now has a microchip, so if she ends up stranded again, scientists will know it’s her.

    An ambassador for conservation: Porkchop became the aquarium’s first public-facing ambassador for its expanded green sea turtle rescue efforts. A new holding tank, viewable by the public, doubles the aquarium’s capacity to rescue green sea turtles and provides firsthand education about their conservation efforts. The aquarium is currently caring for another larger and older female green sea turtle — she weighs more than 200 pounds — rescued from the San Gabriel River in January. She’ll be in the public viewing tank in the coming months when she’s recovered a bit more.

    How to help local green sea turtles: Green sea turtle populations are actually doing quite well in the San Gabriel River, but trash, debris and pollution remains a big threat. If you fish the San Gabriel River, never litter fishing lines or hooks. If you see a stranded sea turtle in the San Gabriel River or elsewhere, call the West Coast Marine Mammal and Sea Turtle Stranding Network’s hotline at (562) 506-4315. You can also donate to the aquarium’s rescue program.

  • wave of strikes 'is no coincidence'
    People holding up signs in a crowd that read "On strike. For sped students & educators."
    Teachers, students and supporters picket outside of Mission High School in San Francisco, on Feb. 9, 2026.

    Topline:

    The California Teachers Association organized to trigger a wave of negotiations and potential strikes to garner public attention and flex political muscle.

    Why it matters: Thousands of California K-12 teachers have walked off their jobs or voted to strike in the past few months, as part of a strategic, statewide effort by the California Teachers Association to boost salaries and benefits — and get the public’s attention.

    Public and political priorities: Teacher contracts vary by district, but the demands are similar: higher salaries, better benefits and amenities that affect student well-being, such as sanctuary protection for immigrants.

    Read on... for more about the wave of negotiations and potential strikes.

    If your child’s teacher hasn’t threatened to go on strike recently, they probably will soon.

    Thousands of California K-12 teachers have walked off their jobs or voted to strike in the past few months, as part of a strategic, statewide effort by the California Teachers Association to boost salaries and benefits — and get the public’s attention.

    “All these districts going out on strike — it’s not a coincidence at all,” said David Goldberg, president of the California Teachers Association, the state’s largest teachers union. “Everywhere in the state there are people with unmet needs. The conditions have been ripe for a long time.”

    San Francisco teachers went on strike for four days this month. West Contra Costa teachers went on strike in December. San Diego, Woodland, Apple Valley, Duarte and Madera teachers planned to strike in the past few months but reached a settlement at the last minute. Teachers in Los Angeles, Oakland, Dublin, West Sacramento, Twin Rivers and Natomas have voted overwhelmingly to strike. In Berkeley, Soquel and other districts, teachers are holding rallies and appear headed for strike votes.

    Ten local teachers unions under the umbrella of the California Teachers Association worked for years to align their contracts so they’d expire at the same time: June 30, 2025. The idea, Goldberg said, was to trigger a wave of negotiations and potential strikes to garner public attention and flex political muscle. Teachers unions from at least a dozen other districts have also joined the effort, even though they weren’t part of the original cohort.

    “We’re a strong union with a lot of resources, and we’re taking advantage of that,” Goldberg said, whose union represents about 310,000 teachers. “Teachers are learning from each other, and getting some clarity on how to win resources for public schools.”

    Public and political priorities

    Teacher contracts vary by district, but the demands are similar: higher salaries, better benefits and amenities that affect student well-being, such as sanctuary protection for immigrants.

    Considering the ever-escalating cost of living in California, the demands are not a surprise, said Julia Koppich, an education consultant who specializes in labor-management relations.

    Teachers in expensive cities like San Francisco often can’t afford to live near their jobs, she said, noting that starting teachers in San Francisco Unified earn about $80,000. San Francisco’s starting police officers, by comparison, make about $120,000.

    It’s been a frustration for the teaching profession for decades, she said. But districts don’t have much control over their revenues and substantial increases in spending would have to come from the state, she said.

    “To be sure, the issue of marshaling sufficient resources is a district conversation about teacher worth,” Koppich said. “But, ultimately, it’s a state discussion about public and political priorities."

    District financial hardships

    At the same time that teachers are demanding more money, school districts are facing financial hardships. Declining enrollment, especially in urban districts, has meant half-empty classrooms and less money from the state, which funds schools based on how many students show up every day. Closing schools is the obvious answer, but that’s proven to be deeply unpopular and few school boards appear willing to take that step.

    Another financial challenge has been the end of pandemic relief money. California schools received more than $23.4 billion in one-time grants intended to help students recover from pandemic-related learning loss. State and federal authorities advised schools to spend the money on temporary tutors, after-school and summer programs and other short-term expenses. But some districts, including Los Angeles Unified, San Diego Unified and San Francisco Unified, used some of their funds to increase teacher pay or hire permanent staff, which they’re now struggling to pay for after the grant money ended.

    So even though the state has increased K-12 school funding the past few years, some districts are financially strapped. It’s unclear whether they can afford teachers’ demands for higher salaries or more generous benefits, said Marguerite Roza, director of the Edunomics Lab at Georgetown University.

    The California Teachers Association initially coordinated with 10 district unions to align their contracts to expire on the same date:

    • San Diego Unified
    • Anaheim Union High School District
    • Los Angeles Unified
    • San Francisco Unified
    • Oakland Unified
    • Berkeley Unified
    • West Contra Costa Unified
    • Sacramento City Unified
    • Twin Rivers Unified
    • Natomas Unified

    Los Angeles Unified, for example, gave its teachers 5% raises plus a $2,000 one-time stipend and a $500 bonus. The district’s nurses, who are also represented by the union, got $5,000 stipends.

    “The unions are saying, ‘We know you have an ATM back there. If you were nice, you’d push the buttons,’” Roza said. But districts’ money is tight, she said, “so we’re at a stand off.”

    If districts agree to teachers’ demands, cuts will have to come from somewhere — most likely from programs considered non-essential, such as sports, electives, advanced placement classes and other offerings, she said.

    It could also mean staff layoffs. Tutors, classroom aides and newer teachers would be the most vulnerable.

    Those cuts would harm low-income students the most, Roza said, because they’re more likely to rely on special school programs and attend schools with newer teachers. Low-income students are also more likely to be affected by a strike, she said, because families typically have fewer options for child care and those students are more likely to suffer from academic disruptions.

    School boards need to stand up for those students, she said, and do a better job negotiating with teachers unions. That entails more transparency about finances and a willingness to close under-used schools.

    “It’s so irresponsible to erode services for vulnerable students because you don’t have a spine,” Roza said.

    ‘Kids as leverage’

    Lance Christensen, vice president of education policy at the California Policy Center, said California should get rid of teachers unions altogether. Teachers deserve higher salaries, he said, but the teachers union does not always act in the interests of students.

    The union devotes too much time to defending incompetent teachers, he said, and strikes are harmful to students and families. He also said the California Teachers Association has a political stranglehold on Sacramento that “overshadows every conversation in the Legislature, even if it’s not about education.”

    He noted that charter schools and private schools are rarely unionized, and sometimes have better outcomes than traditional public schools. A handful of other states don’t allow teachers to collectively bargain, and at least 35 don’t allow teachers unions to strike.

    “The union uses kids as leverage,” said Christensen, who ran for state superintendent of public instruction in 2022. “Right now, CTA is the biggest evil in California education.”

    Next steps in San Francisco

    In San Francisco, parent Meredith Dodson said she’s relieved the strike is over. Although most parents support teachers and believe they deserve better compensation, the strike was stressful for families and disrupted learning for thousands of students.

    The $183 million settlement includes raises and improved benefits for teachers, which the district plans to pay for by draining its reserve funds.

    Parents now are bracing for the inevitable cuts. The district’s finances remain shaky, and aren’t likely to improve any time soon.

    “What comes next? Layoffs? Increased class sizes? State intervention?” said Dodson, who is executive director of the San Francisco Parents Coalition, a parent advocacy group. “There’s going to be some hard questions for the board, and they’re going to have to ask themselves, what’s best for kids?”

    This article was originally published on CalMatters and was republished under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives license.

  • Top 5 Oaxacan tortas in LA, ranked
    A close up on a torta with beans, cheese, and avacado.
    A Oaxacan torta from Tlayuda Restaurant in East Hollywood.

    Topline:

    From a 26-year-old family legacy in Pasadena to the vibrant stalls of South LA, these are the city’s most essential Oaxacan tortas.

    Why it matters: Oaxacan cuisine is often defined by two pillars: mole and quesillo. They anchor dishes like tlayudas, memelas, tetelas and tamales, and their flavors travel well — you can find versions of them across Los Angeles and many parts of the world. But one of Oaxaca’s most satisfying street foods rarely gets the same spotlight — the torta Oaxaqueña — messy, crunchy and loaded with individually transformed ingredients.

    About the Oaxacan torta: Unlike other regional tortas that use either freshly baked bollillo or birote saladao, the Oaxacan variety always features a flat toasted telera roll. It also always has plenty of melted quesillo and refried black bean paste. Then it’s loaded with strips of cecina enchilada (marinated pork), fried Oaxacan chorizo or tasajo (thinly sliced beef).

    Read on... for the top 5 Oaxacan tortas in L.A.

    This story was originally published by The LA Local on Feb. 26, 2026.

    Oaxacan cuisine is often defined by two pillars: mole and quesillo. They anchor dishes like tlayudas, memelas, tetelas and tamales, and their flavors travel well — you can find versions of them across Los Angeles and many parts of the world.

    But one of Oaxaca’s most satisfying street foods rarely gets the same spotlight — the torta Oaxaqueña — messy, crunchy and loaded with individually transformed ingredients.

    Unlike other regional tortas that use either freshly baked bollillo or birote saladao, the Oaxacan variety always features a flat toasted telera roll. It also always has plenty of melted quesillo and refried black bean paste. Then it’s loaded with strips of cecina enchilada (marinated pork), fried Oaxacan chorizo or tasajo (thinly sliced beef).

    A chalkboard with text and illustrations drawn on it, including one of a torta on a plate. Text written on the board includes "Tortas Mexico. Pasadena."
    A chalkboard decorated with bright flowers and a drawing of a torta greets customers at Tortas Mexico in Pasadena.
    (
    Cristabell Fierros
    /
    The LA Local
    )

    In Old Town Pasadena, Tortas Mexico has served Mexican and Oaxacan dishes for 26 years. The family-owned restaurant, operated by the Ramos family, is open seven days a week and offers a menu ranging from breakfast burritos and chilaquiles to birria tacos and enchiladas.

    At the entrance, a chalkboard decorated with bright flowers and a drawing of a torta greets customers with the phrase “Hecho con amor y tradición” — made with love and tradition.

    “The start of this restaurant business came from an idea by my cousin Francisco, his wife Patricia and my Aunt Macuca,” said Esteban Ramos, who later purchased the location with his wife Blanca.

    A man and a woman, both with medium skin tone, pose for a photo outside a restaurant next to a chalkboard with writing and illustrations on it.
    Esteban and Blanca Ramos outside their Pasadena eatery Tortas Mexico.
    (
    Cristabell Fierros
    /
    The LA Local
    )

    Inside, the space is modest and warm, decorated with artisanal Mexican décor. Above the counter, a sprawling menu lists dozens of options. In the kitchen, at least three cooks work the grill, including Blanca Ramos.

    “The recipes primarily stem from my husband’s side of the family, specifically his Tía Macuca,” Ramos said. “She inspired the majority of the menu.”

    In recent months, Tortas Mexico has attracted new customers through Instagram and TikTok videos, thanks to Esteban’s son, Neftali Ramos, who runs the restaurant’s social media.

    “I want to continue building a spot where you know you’re getting real, authentic Mexican food — that tastes like your mom or your grandma made it,” he said.

    Across Los Angeles, other Oaxacan kitchens are crafting their own versions of the regional specialty.

    Here are the best Oaxacan tortas in Los Angeles ranked.

    No. 5 Tlayuda Restaurant

    A close up of a torta cut in half with vegetables and meat spilling outside of it on yellow deli paper on a floral painted table.
    A Oaxacan torta from El Valle Oaxaqueño in Pico-Union. They also have a second location in South LA.
    (
    Cristabell Fierros
    /
    The LA Local
    )

    Best known for its heart-shaped tlayudas, Tlayuda Restaurant in East Hollywood also turns out a satisfying torta Oaxaqueña. A soft bolillo holds refried black beans, mayonnaise, melted quesillo, avocado, diced chorizo and thin-sliced beef — a balanced, filling torta without any unnecessary flash.

    East Hollywood
    5450 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles 

    No. 4 El Valle Oaxaqueño

    A close up of a torta with meat, beans, and avocado, cut in half, next to a side of fries.
    A Oaxacan torta.
    (
    Cristabell Fierros
    /
    The LA Local
    )

    Part bakery, part market and restaurant, El Valle Oaxaqueño presses its house-baked telera rolls on a flat iron for extra crunch. The carne asada torta melts into layers of mayonnaise, black beans and quesillo. Other options include salchicha roja Oaxaqueña and chile relleno for vegetarians.

    Pico-Union
    1601 Vermont Ave., Suite 106, Los Angeles

    South LA
    2318 W Jefferson Blvd LA,CA 90018

    No. 3 Los Compadres de Oaxaca

    A torta with a lot of vegetables and cheese, next to an iced coffee drink with a sticker that reads "OaxacaCali."
    A Oaxacan torta from Oaxacali in South Central.
    (
    Cristabell Fierros
    /
    The LA Local
    )

    One of the newer Oaxacan additions to LA, Los Compadres De Oaxaca opened in 2025 and isn’t afraid to lean bold. Its torta Oaxaqueña arrives on a toasted bolillo stuffed with chorizo and carne asada, refried black beans, mayo, lettuce, tomato, onion, avocado and fresh quesillo. Fries and tortilla chips with house-made mole come on the side.

    Chinatown
    640 N. Broadway, Suite 6, Los Angeles 

    No. 2 Oaxacalifornia

    A South LA institution for more than two decades, Oaxacalifornia blends Oaxacan flavors with Southern California influence. The vegetarian torta Oaxaqueña is the way to go here — crisp telera bread layered with refried black beans, mayonnaise, avocado, tomatoes and lightly salted quesillo. It comes with nopalito salad and smoky red salsa for extra depth.

    Historic South Central
    3655 S. Grand Ave., Unit C8, Los Angeles

    No. 1 Tortas Mexico

    At Tortas Mexico, their Oaxaqueña begins on a flat-top grill, where a sliced telera roll toasts while strips of cecina enchilada sizzle beside it. The paired grilling adds a rich flavor to the telera roll. That richness is enhanced by every ingredient. The bean paste adds texture that compliments the crunchy bread, followed by the gooey quesillo and the perfectly charred meat.

    At the prep station, mayonnaise is spread on the top half of the roll. Lettuce, tomatoes, avocado, white onions and jalapeños follow. The torta is pressed together — warm, heavy, built to drip.

    San Gabriel Valley
    48 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena