Topline:
How a colorful family-run vegan joint in the San Fernando Valley has built a community of loyal fans and delivered delectable plant-based Vietnamese flavors for the past 21 years.
Why it matters: Going vegan is in vogue. It’s worth exploring the innovators of plant-based dining ubiquitous in our city.
What's next: What is co-founder Kevin Tran going to pick for you next time?
As the first wave of storms from a major atmospheric river rolled into sunny Southern California in early February, Kevin Tran knew he'd be staying late the following evening after heavy winds and rainfall were expected to hit his Reseda restaurant.
The Sherman Way strip-mall location was likely to be safe from flooding — it's just that Kevin knows he has to stay about 90 minutes later than usual when it rains because for his customers, it's gonna be a soup day.
His wife and business partner Lynne tells me it takes 18 hours for the spices to come together to make their pho and lemongrass broths.
Rainy days means that they almost nearly sell out. So they have to start the overnight process again to up their reserves for the following days.
Kevin is keenly aware of his customers’ needs and ordering habits.
“Nobody wants salad on a rainy day, and nobody is eating soup on a very hot day — except for one customer." Kevin pauses for a moment.
"Victor. He's been coming to Vinh Loi for 18 years, only eats soup, even in the scorching 110-degree weather."
Vinh Loi is a star of the vegan scene in L.A. When Kevin and Lynne opened their business in 2002, they exclusively made tofu in the space, but since have branched out to offer everything from banh mi sandwiches to duck noodle salads and a curry udon stir fry. Kevin calls his cuisine "strictly Vietnamese food, but my style.”
Vinh Loi is a casual cafe. No reservations necessary. The orange and green walls display large photos of the menu items. News clippings, accolades, and recognitions from the City of Los Angeles and the California State Senate are hanging on the walls. You sit down wherever you choose, but your order is at the discretion of the chef.
The night that I come in, Kevin is wearing a t-shirt that says "I pick, you eat."
He asks me: "Brother have you eaten? — are you hungry?"
“Sure.”
“How spicy?"
“Medium.”
“How hungry?”
“Medium.”
He looks me up and down and says, "OK, I'll pick the food."
There are more than 300 items on the menu. But the food changes — every two weeks there’s something new and different.
Kevin walks into the kitchen and brings out the meal he has picked for me — mock crispy duck on top of rice and noodles with vegetables. The duck is made from wheat gluten, seitan. It’s delicious.
Kevin and Lynne’s tofu-making journey began after Kevin's grandma passed away. Their family observed a traditional 49-day Vietnamese Buddhist grieving process, which includes abstaining from meat.
During this time they were driving all over L.A. and Orange County, trying tofu from many different places. "We were tasting tofu everywhere." Lynne says. Some hits and misses, but they realized their best tofu was made in the traditional way.
Kevin said to his wife, “I love tofu, honey, — maybe we should open a factory?”
At the time Kevin had been selling high-end furniture in the South Bay and Lynne was working in the film industry. Kevin says he sold furniture “to pay student loans, but food is my passion.”
Lynne says it wasn't easy. “We make tofu in the traditional old-school way. The tofu making process is very tedious and time consuming.”
It starts with soaking the soy beans overnight, then coming back the following morning at 5 a.m. and brining it. Once ready, it has to be cooked, and then water is added back to it. “Then add whatever seasonings like their tofu block — with lemon grass. We sold it with different flavors like: plain tofu, tofu lemongrass, tofu with mushroom."
Reseda is home to a vibrant Vietnamese community, with markets, restaurants, bakeries, restaurants, doctors, accountant, notary publics, and a Buddhist temple. So it made sense to Kevin and Lynne to open Vinh Loi Tofu there.
They had been making tofu for a year and a half when one day a customer came in and asked Kevin what he was eating.
It looked good. It was his vegan version of Bun Bo Hue, a traditional Vietnamese spicy beef soup.
After that people began to ask to taste other things on the menu. "What do you mean menu? I serve tofu,” says Kevin. “Slowly one thing after another and the menu becomes massive. I love to create. I love to cook. I love to eat. I wanted to do something for my customers.”
Kevin points to a 2009 L.A. Times article and photo gallery, which used to be on the wall but it's now ostensibly out of sight on top of a fridge.
“People started coming here since the article.” A year later, the Discovery Channel came through and “basically gave me a year of free advertising.” Since then Kevin says “it's been up and up.”
"We've been very fortunate,” Lynne says, “for the majority of our customers it's their lifestyle. It's not a trend or a fad.”
Lynne describes a multigenerational clientele. “There's beauty in a restaurant. We get to know families by name. Lot of them come in once as a date, and then later as a couple, and then later with their children.
“There are a lot of people in the vegan community, but nowadays even meat-eaters want to taste,” says Kevin. “In people's minds a block of tofu has no taste. But the minute they taste this food, they realize they can be vegan every day.”
Lynne says “we’re a strong believer in morals and values. I'm always sourcing the freshest produce. Putting our name on a product, and making sure you deliver. Focus on quality over quantity."
Kevin says "my job is to make sure that the food tastes real and healthy. You have to put your heart and soul, 110% into a restaurant."
Though Lynne says that Kevin can also be the “vegan version of Gordon Ramsay — a real pain in the ass.”
Kevin admits it. “Trust me I own my restaurant, I'm picky. I love food so much. It can't be a 9, it needs to be a 10.” If the cook’s palette is off, it’ll be wrong for the customer.
His zeal for perfection has led Kevin to other activities like triathlons. He says “cooking is my hobby — running is for when I need a change.”
He competes as the Tofu Robot, a name given to him by a customer because he does things that “only robots can do. Humans can't do it."
Kevin says he got into these massive multi-day 100-mile races because "I hung out with too many vegans, all badasses, looking good. I kinda wanted to understand my customers.”
He says he runs because "I need to know what is in people's minds. They're crazy. I have to learn from what they did. See how vegan food works on the body in those conditions."
At the end of the day Kevin says he never wants to do business with meat.
“I feel like whatever I do. I am happy. Animal is happy. People are happy because they had healthy food to eat. And making people happy makes me happy at the same time. You have nothing to lose. Everybody win/win.”
Topline:
A federal judge ruled today that the Trump administration is not entitled to personal information belonging to California’s 23 million voters.
The backstory: Last year, the U.S. Department of Justice sued California, along with 22 other states and D.C., for access to their full, unredacted voter files. That includes driver’s license, social security numbers and other sensitive data. California refused, citing state and federal privacy law.
Why it matters: In Judge Carter’s ruling, he wrote that amassing sensitive information at the federal level would have a chilling effect on voter registration, which would lead to decreased turnout “as voters fear that their information is being used for some inappropriate or unlawful purpose.”
What's next: The DOJ's lawsuits against other states are still making their way through the courts. The government could also decide to appeal Carter's decision.
A federal judge ruled today that the Trump administration is not entitled to personal information belonging to California’s 23 million voters. Judge David O. Carter made the ruling.
Last year, the U.S. Department of Justice sued California, along with 22 other states and Washington, D.C., for access to their full, unredacted voter files. That includes driver’s license, social security numbers and other sensitive data.
DOJ officials said they needed the data to assess whether states were properly maintaining their voter rolls and ensuring "only American citizens are voting, only one time," as Assistant Attorney General Harmeet Dhillon said in a social media post in December.
California refused, citing state and federal privacy law. Only a handful of states have complied with the government’s request for their full voter files, according to the Brennan Center for Justice, which has been tracking the issue nationwide.
In Judge Carter’s ruling, he wrote that amassing sensitive information at the federal level would have a chilling effect on voter registration, which would lead to decreased turnout “as voters fear that their information is being used for some inappropriate or unlawful purpose.”
He added, “This risk threatens the right to vote which is the cornerstone of American democracy."
LAist emailed a request for comment to a spokesperson for the Department of Justice but has not yet received a response.
Jenny Farrell, executive director of the League of Women Voters of California, applauded the decision. The group had joined California in opposing the government’s data request.
“ We think that voters should never have to choose between their privacy interests and the right to participate in our democracy,” she said.
Justin Levitt, a Loyola Law School professor and former Department of Justice employee said, “The court did what we thought the court should do.”
Levitt and a group of other former DOJ employees had filed an amicus brief in the case, siding with California.
In a news release, California Secretary of State Shirley Weber wrote: “I will continue to uphold my promise to Californians to protect our democracy, and I will continue to challenge this administration's disregard for the rule of law and our right to vote.”
The DOJ's lawsuits against other states are still making their way through the courts.
During a hearing in the case in December, Judge Carter said he anticipated his eventual ruling — whichever way it went — would be appealed, and that a final decision on the issue could rest with the U.S. Supreme Court.
Topline:
A Superior Court judge has found that the city of Los Angeles violated public open records laws nearly two years ago by taking action on matters related to its homelessness response and failing to report it.
Why it matters: The decision could be a factor in an ongoing hearing in federal court where a different judge is considering whether to hold the city in contempt of court.
Why now: In a ruling last week, L.A County Superior Court Judge Curtis A. Kin found that the city violated the Brown Act on two occasions in January and May 2024 when it took action in closed session
The city's stance: The city argued its actions were allowed under the Brown Act because they stemmed from the ongoing settlement between the city and the L.A. Alliance for Human Rights, a group of business owners and residents who sued the city over its response to the homelessness crisis.
A Superior Court judge has found that the city of Los Angeles violated public open records laws nearly two years ago by taking action on matters related to its homelessness response and failing to report it.
That decision could be a factor in an ongoing hearing in federal court where a different judge is considering whether to hold the city in contempt of court.
In a ruling last week, L.A. County Superior Court Judge Curtis A. Kin found that the city violated the Brown Act on two occasions in January and May 2024 when it took action in closed session on the following:
— approving an encampment reduction plan;
— approving a memorandum of understanding with the county for support on interim housing beds and other issues.
Afterward, the city did not report those approvals in open session.
The city argued its actions were allowed under the Brown Act because they stemmed from the ongoing settlement between the city and the L.A. Alliance for Human Rights, a group of business owners and residents who sued the city over its response to the homelessness crisis.
But Kin disagreed with that argument, saying what the city had done in closed session did not fall within the Brown Act exemptions because they were policy decisions, not litigation decisions concerning the L.A. Alliance settlement.
In federal court, U.S. District Judge David O. Carter has been overseeing the city’s compliance with the settlement. Carter has said he’s concerned “the city has demonstrated a continuous pattern of delay” in meeting its obligations.
Carter has been hearing testimony since November from city officials and others in an ongoing contempt-of-court hearing. This week, the judge said in court documents that he would consider Kin’s ruling as the contempt hearing proceeds.
The parties were last in federal court earlier this week. It’s not yet clear when that hearing will resume.
Topline:
Sidewalk vendors can now apply to receive a free, health-code-compliant food vending cart through a new program launched in a partnership between the county and the city of Los Angeles.
Who can apply: To receive a cart, applicants must be at least 18 years old, live in L.A. County, be self-employed as a sidewalk vendor, and earn less than $75,000 annually from vending. Applicants must operate within unincorporated L.A. County or the city of L.A., and commit to full compliance with public health and safety regulations.
Why it matters: Los Angeles County Board Chair Hilda Solis said the program can help ensure a “permitted pathway” toward entrepreneurship. “Many vendors are navigating increasingly difficult and uncertain times due to cruel federal immigration actions, and we know vendors play an essential role in the economic and cultural vitality of Los Angeles County,” Solis said in a statement.
Sidewalk vendors can now apply to receive a free, health-code-compliant food vending cart through a new program launched in a partnership between the county and the city of Los Angeles.
To receive a cart, applicants must be at least 18 years old, live in LA County, be self-employed as a sidewalk vendor, and earn less than $75,000 annually from vending, according to a news release. Applicants must operate within unincorporated LA County or the city of LA, and commit to full compliance with public health and safety regulations.
You can find the application here.
Vendors who are awarded carts will have to secure required permits in order to begin operating as fully permitted businesses. This includes obtaining the Compact Mobile Food Operation (CMFO) certificate from the LA County Department of Public Health and any Sidewalk Vending Registration Certifications or permits required to comply with the county and city sidewalk vending programs.
Applications will be selected by lottery, will be reviewed on a monthly basis, and will be prioritized based on “compliance readiness.” Priority will also be given to those who are based in the county’s “highest-need areas,” as according to the county equity explorer map.
Eligible applicants will be connected to partner organizations like Inclusive Action for the City to help navigate the permitting process and to provide business business support and language assistance.
Carts offered through the program include:
Currently, the county and city have 50 hot-holding and 30 cold-holding carts for the first round of awards with 40 integrated grill carts underway.
The launch of the Sidewalk Vending Cart Program – which invests $2.8 million in more than 280 carts – follows the passage of state legislation that decriminalized street vendors and that streamlined the permitting process.
“The program aims to help vendors meet new legal requirements, overcome financial barriers to formalization, and operate safely and legally in their communities,” according to the news release.
Los Angeles County Board Chair Hilda Solis said the program can help ensure a “permitted pathway” toward entrepreneurship.
“Many vendors are navigating increasingly difficult and uncertain times due to cruel federal immigration actions, and we know vendors play an essential role in the economic and cultural vitality of Los Angeles County,” Solis said in a statement. “This is more than a program — this is a chance to support small business growth, economic stability, and even generational wealth.”
Topline:
The biggest mobile network in the United States, Verizon, experienced a huge outage on Wednesday, leaving at least tens of thousands of customers without cell service for much of the day.
What happened?: Users had no connectivity for much of the day and were only able to access "SOS" mode during the outage. Verizon has not posted details nor an explanation of the cause of the outage on its website. In an email to NPR, a company spokesperson wrote that the problem stemmed from "a software issue" and that Verizon is conducting a full review. And while Verizon hasn't released a figure for how many customers were affected, the staff at the Downdetector website — where users go to report service outages — posted on Facebook that they received 2.3 million outage reports for Verizon throughout the day. (That doesn't necessarily translate to 2.3 million affected customers.)
Could it happen again?: Yep — to Verizon or any of its competitors. "Modern telecom networks are cloud networks. 5G networks are mainly, like, hundreds of different cloud services," Lee McKnight, an associate professor in the School of Information Studies at Syracuse University said. "The telecom companies haven't yet adjusted their training to that reality, that their staff have to be expert not just in cell towers and wireless, like we think about, but about cloud services, like AWS, or Microsoft, or Google."
The biggest mobile network in the United States, Verizon, experienced a huge outage on Wednesday, leaving at least tens of thousands of customers without cell service for much of the day.
An update on Verizon's website today said the outage had been resolved. "We are sorry for what you experienced and will continue to work hard day and night to provide the outstanding network and service that people expect from Verizon," it said.
It's still unclear. Verizon has not posted details nor an explanation of the cause of the outage on its website. In an email to NPR, a company spokesperson wrote that the problem stemmed from "a software issue" and that Verizon is conducting a full review.And while Verizon hasn't released a figure for how many customers were affected, the staff at the Downdetector website — where users go to report service outages — posted on Facebook that they received 2.3 million outage reports for Verizon throughout the day. (That doesn't necessarily translate to 2.3 million affected customers.)
Cell networks experience small outages fairly regularly, though, and sizable ones are not uncommon. Verizon had a disruption across several major cities in September 2024, and competitor AT&T was hit by a large outage in February 2024, affecting more than 125 million registered devices and customers in all 50 states.
Sanjoy Paul, a wireless network expert at Rice University, says telecommunications systems have become more complex over the past decade and a half as they've moved from physical infrastructure — wires and cables — and into the cloud.
"What used to be a completely hardware-dependent network transformed into a complete software-dependent network," he said. That shift has given operators more flexibility to add services or tweak products but, he said, it has come at the expense of reliability.
With a cloud and software-based networks, there are more opportunities for glitches and attacks, he said. Small issues with computer code buried inside these systems can have big consequences.
Users had no connectivity for much of the day and were only able to access "SOS" mode during the outage.
Verizon, which has styled itself as America's best and most reliable network, has been in damage control mode. The company has issued instructions for customers to restart their devices to reconnect to the network if they are still having problems. It also pledged $20 credits as "a way of acknowledging your time and showing that this matters to us," according to their website.
The Federal Communications Commission said in a statement it was "continuing to actively investigate and monitor the situation to determine next steps."
Yep — to Verizon or any of its competitors.
Since the cause of this latest outage remains unclear, it's too early to say whether or not this exact thing could happen again. But Lee McKnight, an associate professor in the School of Information Studies at Syracuse University, told NPR's Morning Edition outages are "a fact of life these days for major telecommunications firms."
"Modern telecom networks are cloud networks. 5G networks are mainly, like, hundreds of different cloud services," he said. "The telecom companies haven't yet adjusted their training to that reality, that their staff have to be expert not just in cell towers and wireless, like we think about, but about cloud services, like AWS, or Microsoft, or Google."
At the end of the day, experts say, consumers should consider having a "Plan B" for connectivity. That may mean a land line for your house or getting a second phone on a different cell network.
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