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  • Crispy Rice Salad from Northern Thailand
    A close-up of a light brown crispy rice salad with sliced green onions, shelled peanuts, and half moons of pink sausage next to a bed of green vegetables that consist of sliced cucumber, separated romaine lettuce leaves, and a wedge of green cabbage.
    The Nam Khao Tod, aka crispy rice salad, at Renu Nakron in Norwalk. It's a favorite of LAist Food Editor Gab Chabrán, and his mom, Gail.

    Topline:

    This week, for Best Thing I Ate Mother's Day edition, LAist Food Editor Gab Chabrán visits Renu Nakorn in Norwalk to enjoy a Thai crispy rice salad that's a favorite of his mom's.

    Why it matters: Thai food is much more than Pad Thai and Chicken Satay; Renu Nakorn specializes in flavorful Northern Thai dishes.

    What's the difference between Northern and Southern Thai food? Northern Thai cuisine takes cues from Burmese and Laotian cooking, while Southern Thai dishes exhibit more Malaysian influence. Also, coconut milk is typically found in Southern Thai cooking rather than Northern Thai dishes.

    I can still recall the moment of discovery, the first time I read about Norwalk's Renu Nakorn in one of Jonathan Gold's columns.

    It was a win for me and my family because I was always looking for good places near my hometown of Whittier. Many years later, the Northern Thai restaurant in a strip mall beside a Starbucks still holds a special place in our hearts.

    While Renu Nakorn does offer standard Thai dishes such as Pad Thai and yellow curries, the true allure lies in the variety of Northern Thai dishes on their menu. These are not your typical Thai fare.

    My mother Gail’s favorite dish (it is Mother's Day on Sunday) is Nam Khao Tod, aka crispy rice salad. The dish arrives on a large plate and is meant to be eaten family-style.

    Served at room temperatue, it features jasmine rice mixed with a red curry paste and then fried. The rice has an unique texture, kind of like a crunchier Rice Krispies (the GOAT of cereals, in my opinion).

    Next comes my favorite part: half-moons of Issan cured sausage, similar to a German summer sausage with a slightly sour taste. Surrounding that are small slivers of red onion, chili, ginger, peanuts, and lime juice.

    A top view of a white square plate with a pile of rice and red onions, herbs and peanuts. Next to it are three slices of cucumber and some cabbage
    Nam Khao Tod
    (
    Gab Chabran/LAist
    )

    Alongside are romaine lettuce leaves, slices of cucumber, and a thick wedge of cabbage, and the idea is that you pack the salad inside of the lettuce, along with the veg. Once you bite into it, it’s a rush of fresh flavors that are spicy and sour.

    My mom loves this dish because she loves spicy foods, but also appreciates something light and healthy. And if I'm being honest, I love it just as much as she does. And so does my wife, who, when I told her I was doing this article for Mother's Day, responded with, "What about me? I made you a father!"

    Next time you’re near Norwalk, stop by Renu Nakorn for a memorable meal. You won’t regret it.

    Northern vs Southern Thai cuisine

    If you're curious about the difference between Northern and Southern Thai cuisine, a good place to start is to look at a map of Thailand.

    Northern Thai cuisine takes cues from Burmese and Laotian cooking, while Southern-style dishes exhibit more of a Malaysian influence. Also, coconut milk is typically found in Southern-style cooking, rather than Northern-style Thai dishes.

    And the rice is another clue. Northern Thai dishes are served with sticky rice eaten with your hands, while Southern-style dishes typically feature non-glutinous rice, such as cooked jasmine rice. (Yes, the Nam Khao Tod does use jasmine rice, but it's prepared in a Northern Thai style).

    Location: 13019 Rosecrans Ave., Ste 105, Norwalk
    Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.

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