Game 1 of the World Series kicks off tonight — as does the West Coast vs. East Coast rivalry. L.A.-style pizza is making a name for itself, providing stiff competition for the city’s N.Y.-Style pizza joints. LAist food editor Gab Chabrán shows how you can sample the best of both coasts right here in Los Angeles.
Why now? With the Dodgers vs the Yankees taking over the collective consciousness of the city, it’s time to indulge in other forms of geographic competition. In-N-Out vs Shake Shack? Freeway vs subway? Malibu vs the Hamptons? Your call.
What does L.A.-style pizza offer? We know that N.Y. is the O.G. of pizza creation. But L.A. is becoming a contender, with its unique take on square pies and its pull from diverse influences from around the world, including Asian, Italian, and Mexican, to name a few.
The L.A. vs N.Y. rivalry may be front of mind right now (Dodgers in six btw), but let's face it, it’s always lurking in the background.
In-N-Out vs Shake Shack.
Freeway vs subway.
Malibu vs the Hamptons.
You name it, we can argue about it. So in this high stakes moment it seemed a good time to ask that vital question:
Pizza: N.Y. or L.A.?
For many years, we conceded that there was no contest (Hail New York).
L.A. has the imagination to mash up its cultural influences and reinvent a culinary classic; N.Y. is determined to dig in its heels and work for perfection.
While I confess I’ve most recently been on Team L.A, the times I’ve bitten into a perfect crust at one of our excellent New York-style pizza joints could have me swayed.
It's difficult to call. I'll leave it up to you to decide.
To help I've put a list together of what I believe to be the best places to get pizza in the city — from both coasts. Try them out and see what your tastebuds tell you. And at the very least it means you'll know exactly who to order from when it's game time.
Play ball!
LaSorted’s (Silver Lake, Chinatown)
West Coast Style
Tommy and Erin Brockert started selling pizzas on the porch of their Echo Park home during the pandemic. Tommy was an out-of-work event photographer looking to earn money. Now, four-and-half years later, LaSorted’s has morphed into a successful mini-empire with the recent opening of its second location in Chinatown.
While the original Silver Lake order-at-the-counter location remains, the new digs feature a cozy sit-down restaurant chock-full of Brockett’s extensive collection of signature L.A. sports and pop culture ephemera, including a Dodgers Cabbage Patch Kid still in its box. (Not surprising given the place is named after the famed Dodgers coach).
As for the pizza, the Mamba is a great place to start, a regular cheese slice with or without pepperoni. It's named after the late Laker great Kobe Byrant, who once said he ate a pepperoni pizza before scoring 81 points in a single game in 2006.
The Mamba has its own following
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The love of innovation is on display with the Upside Down Mamba, which is precisely what it sounds like: the cheese pizza plus toppings, flipped, with a three-cheese blend serving as its base, topped thoroughly with tomato sauce, sprinkled with flaky sea salt, and Sicilian oregano. The cooked cheese underneath the sauce forms a uniquely layered buffer, making for an exceptional texture.
Locations: Silver Lake, 2847 Sunset Blvd, LA , 90026 Chinatown, 984 North Broadway, LA, 90012 Hours: Silver Lake: Daily 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Chinatown, Monday 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday, 2 p.m. to 1 a.m. Saturday, 4 p.m. to 1 p.m.
Quarantine Pizza Co. (Various locations)
West Coast Style
If you like something outside the (pizza) box, check out Quarantine Pizza Co., a pizza pop-up by Brandon and Carolina Conaway. Like many who grew up in Southern California, they draw from their respective cultural backgrounds and other influences they’ve picked up along the way.
Brandon is Asian (Chinese and Vietnamese) and white. Carolina is Latina (Mexican and Colombian). Both grew up in Orange County, where they met before moving to Los Angeles for college.
The al-pastor pizza is the stuff dreams are made of — a pizza that tastes like a taco!
They can nail their version of the classics, too. When you bite into a slice of their sourdough, “Neapolitan-ish inspired," its fluffy texture is like a breath of fresh air. The outer rim of the crust features the perfect amount of “leoparding,” which occurs when the naturally fermented dough is cooked under high heat and creates little dark spots around the edges of the crust.
They've recently announced they'd be opening a brick-and-mortar location early next year, renaming themselves Wallflour Sourdough Pizza. In the meantime, you can find them regularly popping up at the El Sereno Night Market every Wednesday night and at Benny Boy Brewing in Lincoln Heights
If you judge Apollonia’s Pizza by its limited menu, featuring a handful of round and square pies, you may wonder if you’ve come to the right place—is this some of the best pizza in L.A.?
But you'll quickly understand after encountering the long lines outside this standing-room-only, cash-only pizzeria off Wilshire Boulevard — and taking your first bite.
Justin De Leon, owner and head pizza maker, grew up on pizza; his first job was working at a pizza restaurant when he was just 13.
I suggest you start with a traditional De Leon cheese pie slice. The chef wanted something “thin, light, and crispy.” Well, he found it. This is the cheese slice against which all others should be judged, with its well-portioned ingredients over the perfectly stretched, crispy, tasting crust, showcasing an almost zen-like attention to detail.
Some of the best pizza you can find in L.A., sold by the slice at Apollonia's Pizzeria
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Like every great master, De Leon says he doesn’t subscribe to specific labels when describing his style of pizza. While his square pie could easily be described as a Detroit, Siciliana, or even Grandma slice, he simply calls it L.A.-style, a mixture of the multiple styles he draws from. He believes that combination gives Apollonia’s pizza its unique taste, much like the city of L.A.
Location: 5176 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles Hours: Wednesday through Sunday, noon to 2:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.
Prime Pizza (various locations)
East Coast Style
With the tagline "New York style pizza made for L.A.", you shouldn’t be surprised that Prime Pizza has some excellent slice options, which is rare to find in L.A. If you’re looking for value for money, this hits the spot: the two-cheese slice combo with a drink was $10 (hello, Cheap Fast Eats!).
The two slice Combo with both cheese and pepperonis slices from Prime Pizza
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The slice stays in its lane with a crispy crust and a respectable amount of sauce, perfect for satisfying your pizza craving in a jiff. Its original recipe was developed as an ode to N.Y., inspired by some of the great pizzerias of the Big Apple.
Despite its allegiance to the East Coast, Prime Pizza perfectly nails the vibe of an L.A. neighborhood pizza shop. It's the type of place that conjures up my middle school days, throwing back a few slices after an afternoon of skateboarding with friends, and we love it.
Locations and hours: Prime Pizza has seven locations: Fairfax, Little Tokyo, West L.A., Burbank, Pico-SMC, El Segundo, and Altadena.
Milana’s (Long Beach)
East Coast Style
Milana’s proudly wears its New York heart on its sleeve, with the flatscreen on the wall showing a live feed of Times Square, and various pies named after well-known spots in the five boroughs. The standout for me is the Sheepshead Bay, made with house-made meatballs, topped with pillow-soft dollops of ricotta and sprinkled with bits of basil.
The Sheephead's Bay slice from Milana's
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The soft creaminess of the cheese, with just a slight bit of sharp flavor, perfectly cuts through the fattiness from the sliced meatballs. It contains elements of both soft and crispy, which drives the whole thing home.
The large, chewy slice of pie has thin edges allowing for maximum foldability when consuming. It’s a beautiful thing,
Location: 165 E. 4th Street, Long Beach
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11:00 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Friday through Saturday, 11:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.; Sunday, 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.
A slice of New Jersey style cheese pizza from Secret Pizza
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New Jersey-style pizza might be a product of the Garden State, but it’s one of my favorite East Coast-style pies, New York or otherwise.
Secret Pizza was started by Sean Lango, who began cooking pizza out of his Hollywood apartment before graduating to his pizzeria in the foothills of Montecito Heights.
He calls his pizza New Jersey-style because he's from there, and wanted to protect himself from the wrath of purist New Yorkers not happy with outsiders laying claim to their turf. It's very similar to a classic NY pie; he sees it as an opportunity to highlight his home state and his love for it.
What makes his pizza so memorable? Its simplicity. The thin crust gives way to a stellar crispy underside, providing an excellent texture, topped off by a tangy sauce.
Sure, you could add different toppings, but Lango's pie, with crushed tomatoes, a small amount of mozzarella cheese, and topped with aged pecorino is perfect as it is. Sometimes, when you rely on a good, uncomplicated formula, good things happen.
Location: 3501 Monterey Road, Los Angeles. Hours: Thursday through Saturday, 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.