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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • A new bill could outlaw library review committees
    A collection of library stacks in a row.
    Book shelves lined up in the Fresno County Library Clovis Branch on July 31, 2024.
    Topline:
    Fresno County is about to appoint a library review committee that critics say will censor children’s books. But a bill before the Legislature would outlaw such groups in California.


    Why it matters: The committee, which has not yet been selected, is already a lightning rod for fears about parents’ rights, censorship, the politicization of libraries and LGBTQ people being pushed out of public life again. Supporters say they are concerned about sexual content, not LGBTQ themes, and they do not want to ban books from the library entirely.

    The backstory: Though disagreements over what constitutes suitable reading material for young people are nothing new, public libraries have been thrust into a pitched culture war over the past few years as conservative activist groups across the country organized to demand more books be removed from collections.

    What's next: A bill on track to pass the Legislature before the session ends on Aug. 31 would effectively outlaw book review committees and other policies that limit access to materials at public libraries — potentially shutting down Fresno County’s efforts before they ever get off the ground.

    The presentation was unassuming, just a handful of picture books arrayed on the side of a bookcase — the ABCs of a Pride parade, biographies of the gay World War II codebreaker Alan Turing and 50 LGBTQ+ people who made history, the sex education manual “It’s Perfectly Normal,” a retelling of the Stonewall riot and “My Shadow Is Pink,” in which a young boy explores his gender identity.

    But when Fresno County Supervisor Steve Brandau heard a complaint from a constituent that Clovis librarians had put together a graphic Pride Month display for the children’s section, he was concerned enough to check it out. It wasn’t the type of material that he thought should be available alongside books about skunks and pirates.

    “I don’t like a kid going in there and seeing ‘I can choose to be a boy or girl,’” Brandau said. “It didn’t seem age-appropriate, especially without the parent being involved.”

    After flipping through the books, Brandau said he left the library in June 2023 “horrified” by images he believed were too sexually explicit and topics he felt were too mature for young readers. He began reaching out to local officials elsewhere — in states such as South Carolina, Kentucky and Texas, where library book controversies have become commonplace — to learn what they were doing.

    Last November, Brandau led Fresno County in creating one of California’s first citizen review committees for library books, which could soon decide whether to move material with “sexual references” and “gender-identity content” to a restricted area where it could only be checked out with a parent’s permission.

    A male presenting person in a blue suit jacket and jeans stands in what appears to be a municipal-style building.
    Fresno County Supervisor Steve Brandau stands outside his office in the Fresno County Hall of Records on Aug. 1, 2024
    (
    Larry Valenzuela
    /
    CalMatters/CatchLight Local
    )

    The committee, which has not yet been selected, is already a lightning rod for fears about parents’ rights, censorship, the politicization of libraries and LGBTQ people being pushed out of public life again. Supporters say they are concerned about sexual content, not LGBTQ themes, and they do not want to ban books from the library entirely.

    Tracy Bohren, a queer mother of two from Clovis who helped rally local LGBTQ residents against the committee, said adults who object to books about gay and transgender people are applying their own biases to sexualize material meant to help children understand the world. She said it’s important to have library books about marginalized groups available to LGBTQ kids who don’t come from supportive homes and need the message that they are loved.

    “Somehow in the ‘we need to protect kids’ platform that they have stated, trans kids, LGBTQ kids, have not been considered part of that population that they need to protect,” Bohren said.

    Now the book battle has become another front in the intensifying clashes between more conservative pockets of California and the state’s liberal government over values and local control. A bill on track to pass the Legislature before the session ends on Aug. 31 would effectively outlaw book review committees and other policies that limit access to materials at public libraries — potentially shutting down Fresno County’s efforts before they ever get off the ground.

    “It appears to me that they believe that children are best educated and raised as wards of the state,” Brandau said. “We have age limits for movies. We have age limits for alcohol. And it’s not unreasonable to have age limits on sexually graphic material.”

    Book bans surging nationwide

    Though disagreements over what constitutes suitable reading material for young people are nothing new, public libraries have been thrust into a pitched culture war over the past few years as conservative activist groups across the country organized to demand more books be removed from collections.

    The American Library Association has tracked a massive increase in the number of books being challenged at schools and libraries, which soared by 65% in 2023 to a record 4,240 titles. Nearly half featured LGBTQ or racial themes, according to the association.

    Many Republican-led states have subsequently embraced policies requiring schools and libraries to remove books with any sexual content — including nudity, masturbation and homosexuality — or keep them in a separate adult section. New statewide restrictions have taken effect in Utah, Idaho, South Carolina and Tennessee in recent weeks.

    California is not at the center of this conflict, though it has faced scattered fights over school materials, including a high-profile showdown last year between Gov. Gavin Newsom and the Temecula school board that tried to ban an elementary school social studies textbook because it incorporated a lesson about assassinated gay politician Harvey Milk of San Francisco. In response, Newsom signed a law to penalize local districts that block books for including the history or culture of LGBTQ people and other diverse groups, while voters recalled the school board president in June.

    People walk into the entrance of the Huntington Beach Public Library at daytime.
    The public library in Huntington Beach Nov. 11, 2023.
    (
    Lauren Justice
    /
    CalMatters
    )

    Besides Fresno County, the city council in Huntington Beach, the iconic Orange County surf community, has also voted to create a citizen committee to review children’s library books, part of a broader push by local officials to establish a bulkhead against progressive California policies. In the latest salvo of a bitter brawl over the political future of the city, opponents are collecting signatures to place a repeal of the review board before voters next spring.

    These incidents caught the attention of Assemblymember Al Muratsuchi, a Torrance Democrat, who said public libraries are cornerstone institutions that should provide all Americans with a diverse range of perspectives.

    “Teens exploring gender identity issues absolutely should have access to books that speak to their experiences and that may provide support or guidance,” he told CalMatters.

    His proposal, Assembly Bill 1825, would require public libraries in California to establish a clear policy for choosing books, including a way for community members to voice their objections, but would prohibit banning material because it deals with race or sexuality. It also clarifies that library material can include sexual content that’s not obscene and leaves to the discretion of librarians where to display those books, though they could not prevent minors from checking them out.

    “At the center of this bill is the fundamental respect for professionally trained librarians to be making the decisions as to what book titles and how to present them to the general public,” Muratsuchi said.

    The measure has received the support of the California Library Association. Peter Coyl, the director and CEO of the Sacramento Public Library and a member of the association’s intellectual freedom committee, said librarians want to provide people with information, not pornography. While parents have the right to decide what their own children read, he said, libraries need to have materials available to serve their full communities, including families with same-gender couples and children who are questioning their identities.

    “Not every book is meant for every reader,” Coyl said. “You can’t then take your belief about what’s right for your child and apply it to everyone else.”

    The bill, which won overwhelming approval in the Assembly in May and has advanced smoothly through Senate committees since, must pass the Legislature by the end of August to reach the governor’s desk. A spokesperson for Newsom said the governor would not comment on pending legislation.

    If it is signed into law, it could still potentially face legal challenges from defenders of library book review committees, who argue the bill prevents parents from protecting their children from adult material.

    “How do we make sure our public libraries really are tools that can be used by everyone?” said Diane Pearce, a city councilmember in Clovis, a fast-growing and Republican-leaning Fresno suburb. “We want to empower our parents in this situation and the state is telling us that they can do it better than we can.”

    LGBTQ families feel targeted

    The debate over the book review board in Fresno County has been deeply enmeshed with anxieties around LGBTQ rights, particularly transgender youth, underscoring how advocates on either side see the committee in starkly different terms.

    A page from a children's book depicts two friends approaching one another, and the text reads "When Alex was born, everyone thought Alex was a girl, but Alex is both boy and girl. This is Alex's gender identity."
    Clovis City Councilmember Diane Pearce posted these photos on Facebook on June 28, 2023, warning constituents: “Might want to wait until June is over to take your kids to the Clovis Public Library.
    (
    Diane Pearce’s Clovis City Councilmember Facebook page
    )

    As Brandau was researching his proposal last summer, the issue blew up publicly when Pearce posted a warning on Facebook that people “might want to wait until June is over to take your kids to the Clovis Public Library” alongside photos of the Pride display and a page from a book about gender identity.

    Pearce said she does not object to LGBTQ content, but rather to graphic sex education books and others dealing with “transgender ideology” being targeted to young children, which she said are not appropriate themes for that age.

    “I looked at it as a public service announcement,” Pearce said. “I believe that parents should be involved in their children’s exposure to that. Those issues are controversial.”

    Pearce asked her city council colleagues to send a letter to the Fresno County Board of Supervisors seeking a solution, though they did not ultimately agree.

    That effort mobilized local members of the LGBTQ community, such as Boren, who said the library skirmish is part of a broader pattern of religious conservatives in Fresno County overlooking or discriminating against LGBTQ families.

    The Clovis school district was one of the first in the state last year to require parental notification when a student changes their name, pronouns or gender identity — a policy that the Legislature and Newsom recently made illegal in California, effective in January and pending several lawsuits.

    When advocates rallied against the review committee proposal before the board of supervisors last fall, Bohren said officials ignored their expressions of support for the library and seemed only concerned with serving their constituents who aligned with their ideology.

    At a library, a paper art piece shows multicolored popsicle sticks and bubble text that reads "love is love."
    An art display in the children’s section in the Fresno County Library Clovis Branch on July 31, 2024
    (
    Larry Valenzuela
    /
    CalMatters/CatchLight Local
    )

    “I feel like it was contrived,” she said. “It’s one specific group of people — Christian nationalists — who are deciding what is appropriate or not appropriate for my children to see.”

    Brandau said opponents fundamentally misunderstood his proposal, known as the Parents Matter Act, which he already considered a compromise. No books will be banned, he said; the committee will merely move material to a restricted section of the library that parents can access if they want, allowing Fresno County to set its own community standards for what books should be readily available to children.

    He said he took months to develop a policy that was “not targeting one lifestyle,” though he acknowledged that language limiting “gender-identity content” and other “content deemed age-inappropriate” encompasses books about sexuality and transgender people.

    “I’m not against this material. I’m against it at the wrong age,” Brandau said. “If this didn’t involve children, it’s not the biggest deal on the planet.”

    Librarians under siege

    California librarians say morale in their profession has plummeted in recent years. The backlash to certain books has fomented public distrust of their intentions and stoked a host of stressful and sometimes terrifying new threats — protesters, prank calls, bomb threats and “First Amendment auditors,” who record their encounters with library workers on their phones.

    “These are things we never worried about before,” said Coyl of the Sacramento Public Library. “It’s not what we signed up for as library workers. And it is probably the worst that it’s ever been.”

    Some libraries that have not faced a huge number of book challenges are making precautionary changes to their policies, such as requiring that demands come from someone who proves that they actually reviewed the material and not allowing another challenge if the library keeps the book on the shelf.

    “Not every book is meant for every reader. You can’t then take your belief about what’s right for your child and apply it to everyone else.”
    — Peter Coyl, director and CEO of the Sacramento Public Library

    The tumult has stretched even to liberal California communities not used to conflicts over cultural values. Programs where drag queens read stories to children have become a particular flash point. Two years ago, members of the far-right militia group the Proud Boys stormed a drag storytime at a library in the East Bay city of San Lorenzo.

    The library in Redwood City, on the San Francisco peninsula, started a drag queen story program remotely during the pandemic. When it hosted the event in-person for the first time in 2022, several groups protested that the library was grooming and indoctrinating children. The protesters included people associated with the Proud Boys and a local homelessness nonprofit with an evangelical Christian affiliation, according to Derek Wolfgram, interim director of Redwood City’s parks and recreation department.

    Wolfgram, a past president of the California Library Association, said he tries to use these situations as an opportunity to engage positively with the community. The evangelical nonprofit wanted to host a Bible storytime in response to the drag queen event, so the library created a series of story hours with faith leaders of different denominations, which Wolfgram said has been popular and appeared to draw new library users.

    He recalled another exchange with a man who said the library didn’t have enough books with conservative viewpoints. Wolfgram asked for a list of recommendations, some of which were already in Redwood City’s collection and at least one — “Why I Stand,” the memoir of NBA player Jonathan Isaac — that the library added. It has since been checked out several times.

    “Don’t tell me what you want to take away from anybody else. Tell me what you want to add so you feel included,” Wolfgram said.

    Parents divided over review committee

    In Fresno County, another Pride Month has come and gone and the library book review committee still has not launched. The deadline for applications was in April, but more than three months later, the board, which will primarily be selected by county supervisors, remains vacant.

    Brandau said he received more than 40 applications, which he is reviewing. He expects to finish interviews and choose his two representatives to the committee by the end of the month.

    “We have age limits for movies. We have age limits for alcohol. And it’s not unreasonable to have age limits on sexually graphic material.”
    — Fresno County Supervisor Steve Brandau

    A spokesperson said the library is waiting to receive direction from the review committee before it moves any material. In the meantime, the Clovis branch put together an elaborate Pride display in June, with a case of featured books, a historical timeline and, in the children’s section, a banner depicting melting popsicles of every color in the rainbow, with the slogan “Love is Love.”

    John Gerardi, executive director of Right to Life of Central California, is among the applicants waiting to find out whether he’ll be on the committee. The Clovis father of three “frequent library-goers” under the age of 10 said he wants to move books about sexuality that he believes are being presented to children who are far too young.

    On several library visits, Gerardi said, his wife has found books in the children’s section that included explicit material that did not seem appropriate for the marked grade level, such as “Sex Is a Funny Word” by Cory Silverberg and Fiona Smyth. The sex education comic book for 8- to 10-year-olds has been one of the most challenged books in the country in recent years because of its frank discussion of sexual topics. Gerardi objected to an image that depicts a character masturbating in a bathtub and a passage about the meaning of the word sexy.

    A four-panel comic book depicts a character masturbating in a bath tub with the water covering the character's body, and the text above the character says "touching yourself."
    An image from the sex education comic book “Sex Is a Funny Word” by Cory Silverberg and Fiona Smyth depicts a character masturbating in a bathtub, which some parents argue is too graphic for the children’s section of the library.
    (
    Photo courtesy of John Gerardi
    )

    “Some of these books just seemed completely inappropriate for healthy childhood development around sex,” Gerardi said.

    Gerardi said he has lost confidence in library officials, who he believes have been dismissive of parents’ concerns even though they are not all experts on early childhood development.

    “There’s this idea that they have access to some secret hidden knowledge that we don’t have. And I just don’t think that’s true,” he said. “I think that appropriate presentation of sexual themes to children is something that the taxpayers who are paying for this darn library can understand.”

    Others are seeking positions on the library book review committee precisely because they do not believe it should exist at all.

    “It’s absolutely disgusting trying to control a public library that way,” said Jamie Coffman, a Fresno mother of four children ranging in age from 2 to 11. She said it’s a parent’s job to monitor what their kids are reading, not anybody else’s, and people should trust the librarians’ judgment about what books they put on the shelves.

    Coffman said she submitted her application with vague answers that she hoped would conceal her true intention to “take it down from the inside.” She has yet to hear back.

    Raised in a conservative, Southern Baptist family, Coffman said reading helped expose her to other viewpoints as she was growing up. She worries that society is moving backward on accepting diversity and said she’s scared that her own children might have fewer books available to them.

    “You can’t hide the world just to make your children into who you want them to be,” she said.

  • Regulators order new odor controls, but no fines
    A person in protective clothing works with a broom amid rubble and debris.
    Cleanup of the Lineage food storage warehouse has been underway since the fire was put out. The smell of the rotting waste is leading air quality and other officials to get involved.

    Topline:

    Air regulators on Thursday ordered Lineage Logistics to strengthen odor-control measures and expand air-monitoring as a result of the massive warehouse fire in Boyle Heights last June. Lineage representatives said many of the requirements had already been implemented at the site. Others, including a community communication plan, were expected to happen within five days, the company said.

    The South Coast Air Quality Management District Board did not require Lineage to pay any financial penalties, which several elected officials, including L.A. Mayor Karen Bass, had requested in light of the numerous air quality violations it had been issued.

    Why it matters: The decision came after dozens of residents who spoke at the two-day public hearing described enduring weeks of foul odors and health concerns.

    Read on... for more updates on the cleanup effort.

    This story first appeared in the Boyle Heights Beat.

    Air regulators on Thursday ordered Lineage Logistics to strengthen odor-control measures, expand air monitoring and improve communication with residents as cleanup of the burned warehouse continues.

    The South Coast Air Quality Management District hearing board unanimously approved an abatement order on the second day of a public hearing into a series of air quality violations tied to the June fire in Boyle Heights.

    The board did not require Lineage to pay any financial penalties, which several elected officials, including Los Angeles Mayor Karen Bass, had requested in light of the numerous air quality violations it had been issued.

    Lineage is required, among other things, to:

    • Each day remove 10%, or about 8.8 million pounds, of the food waste stored in the facility at the time of the fire; 
    • Conduct more monitoring for airborne pollutants further from the warehouse; 
    • Increase communication with the community, including providing updates on the cleanup in Spanish.

    Many of the order’s requirements had already been implemented at the site, Lineage representatives said, while the community communication plan and increased air quality monitoring is expected to happen within five days.

    Representatives for AQMD said the order was designed to strike a balance between swift food waste removal and work to control the odors plaguing the community. AQMD focuses specifically on air pollution regulation.

    Dominic DiCarlo, Lineage’s vice president of global safety and compliance, said that he believes all of the rotting bulk food items will be removed by next week, without citing a specific date. He added that it would take another week to remove the rest of the material and fully disinfect the facility.

    Bass ordered that all biohazard food waste be removed from the facility by Aug. 14. It’s unclear if Lineage will meet the mayor’s deadline.

    DiCarlo said the company expects to spend between $80 million and $100 million on the cleanup and remediation of the burn site. He claims that about 80% of the approximately 88 million pounds of food stored at the facility has been removed to about 10 landfills and recycling facilities in Southern California and Arizona.

    “This order will ensure that there are enforceable conditions on [Lineage] as it completes this cleanup project, which will minimize odor impacts on the community and expedite removal of food waste which is the source of these odors,” said Josephine Lee, senior deputy counsel for AQMD.

  • Sponsored message
  • New guide can help those affected by LA fires
    A close up of a burned tricycle with piles of ash around it.
    The metal skeleton of a tricycle sits near a pile of ash in January 2025 in the Pacific Palisades.

    Topline:

    A new guide from a group of local scientists helps Angelenos affected by the 2025 L.A. fires navigate questions about soil testing and clean up.

    Why it matters: When the Eaton and Palisades fires burned down houses and garages, items including paint, kitchen appliances and car batteries released dangerous substances into the environment. Exposure to these substances can increase the risk of respiratory, neurological and reproductive problems, as well as certain cancers.

    How to get your soil tested: If you suspect that your soil may be contaminated, the guide suggests two main options for getting it tested. One option is to hire specialists to come to your house to collect and test samples. The other option is collect them yourself and submit them for testing.

    Read on … to learn who might need soil testing, the steps involved and how soil can be cleaned up.

    A new guide from a group of local scientists helps Angelenos affected by the 2025 L.A. fires navigate questions about soil testing and clean up.

    The guidelines are based on soil tests conducted by USC CLEAN and Community Action Project Los Angeles on more than 6,000 lots in and around burn zones in the Pacific Palisades and Altadena.

    Sujeet Rao, the health and well-being practice director at Public Exchange at USC, who contributed to the guide, said it's a response to questions that he and other contributors knew residents had.

    “We all came together … to help fire affected families understand and navigate questions they may have about environmental contamination related to the fires,” Rao said.

    The guide includes information about soil contamination, testing, cleanup methods and ways to reduce your exposure risk.

    The dangers of soil contamination

    When the Eaton and Palisades fires burned down houses and garages, items including paint, kitchen appliances and car batteries released dangerous substances into the environment.

    Exposure to these substances can increase the risk of respiratory, neurological and reproductive problems, as well as certain cancers.

    Lead was the most common concern, according to the scientists’ testing.

    Rao said that’s worrying because lead is a neurotoxin.

    “What that means is that [for] especially young children whose brains are still developing or women who are pregnant, lead can affect the development of the brain,” Rao said.

    Ways to limit exposure to contaminated soil

    While you’re waiting for testing results or remediation to be completed, you can minimize your exposure to many soil contaminants.

    • Wash your hands regularly.
    • Take off your shoes before going in the house.
    • Wet mop floors and wipe down surfaces.
    • Wipe off your pet’s paws and fur before letting them inside the house.
    • Purchase a HEPA vacuum or air purifier.

    Should you test your soil? 

    Rao said it’s hard to say whether any specific property needs soil testing or cleanup, but gave some general guidelines.

    If your house burned, definitely.

    If you saw ash in the air, on the ground or otherwise near your house during the fires, get your soil tested.

    If not, testing is likely unnecessary.

    Other things to consider are the age of the houses that burned and their proximity to your property.

    “We do know that if you’re in a neighborhood that has a lot of old housing, it is more likely that there is lead that could have been mobilized,” Rao said. “The inverse of that is, in the Palisades, we generally see much lower levels of lead contamination because the housing there tends to be so much newer.”

    What to know about soil testing

    The guide suggests two main options for going about testing.

    One option is to hire specialists to come to your house to collect and test samples.

    The other option is collect samples yourself and submit them to a testing program, such as USC CLEAN.

    In the testing results, look for contaminant levels that exceed the residential limits set by the Environmental Protection Agency or the California Department of Toxic Substances Control.

    Both account for how the area is used, including whether children are playing outside or people are gardening.

    Cleanup methods

    If your soil test results are above the EPA or DTSC limits, the guide offers four main methods to clean it up.

    1. Excavation: Removing the soil, throwing it out at a disposal facility and replacing it with clean soil.
    2. Capping: Putting clean soil, gravel or another physical barrier between the contaminated soil and the people and animals who may come into contact with it.
    3. Immobilization: Adding compost, phosphorus or other materials to stop the spread of contaminants.
    4. Bioremediation: Putting plants, bacteria or fungi into the affected soil to break down biodegradable contaminants.

    Some soil remediation can be paid for through insurance. Costs will depend on the size of your yard and which contaminants are present. The guide estimates that the least costly options are capping and immobilization, which can run around $10,000.

    The full soil remediation guide is on the Consortium website.

  • Exec orders target citizenship, birth tourism
    Closeup of an older man wearing a blue suit. He is seated and behind him is a bald man wearing a blue suit, standing in front of two indistinguishable flags.
    President Donald Trump speaks in the Oval Office of the White House, Thursday, Aug. 6, 2026, in Washington.

    Topline:

    President Donald Trump said Thursday that he is once more trying to limit the number of people who are born in the country who can become American citizens, in a sign that even after his first attempt at limiting birthright citizenship was rejected by the Supreme Court, he’s ready to try again.

    Restricting automatic citizenship: The written executive order appeared to focus on restricting automatic citizenship to specific categories of people, including children born to adults with connections to foreign embassies or organizations as well as anyone considered an “alien enemy” of the United States. It also aimed to restrict birthright citizenship to anyone whose parents “engaged in fraudulent activity to obtain citizenship.”

    Birth tourism: A second order seeks to curb what Trump called “birth tourism” by increasing restrictions on visitors to the U.S. who want to obtain visas to give birth while in the country. Trump said he thought his latest actions would be constitutional.

    WASHINGTON (AP) — President Donald Trump said Thursday that he is once more trying to limit the number of people who are born in the country who can become American citizens, in a sign that even after his first attempt at limiting birthright citizenship was rejected by the Supreme Court, he’s ready to try again.

    The president said he was signing two executive actions on immigration, including one limiting the number of people eligible for U.S. citizenship after being born in the United States.

    The written executive order released later Thursday was narrower in scope than the previous one shot down by the Supreme Court and appeared to focus on restricting automatic citizenship to specific categories of people, including children born to adults with connections to foreign embassies or organizations, as well as anyone considered an “alien enemy” of the United States.

    It also aimed to restrict birthright citizenship to anyone whose parents “engaged in fraudulent activity to obtain citizenship.”

    A second order seeks to curb what Trump called “birth tourism” by increasing restrictions on visitors to the U.S. who want to obtain visas to give birth while in the country.

    Trump said he thought his latest actions would be constitutional.

    “I thought we were going to win it at the Supreme Court. Unfortunately, we had a bad decision, very unfair decision. Our country suffers because of it and we’re ending it a different way,” Trump said.

    In June, the Supreme Court rejected Trump’s previous efforts to declare that children born to people in the U.S. illegally or temporarily aren’t American citizens, and upheld a broad conception of birthright citizenship.

    On Trump’s first day in office of his second term, he signed an executive order aimed at ending birthright citizenship, which allows anyone born in the United States to automatically become an American citizen.

    Trump’s administration was immediately sued by opponents who said the executive order went against the 14th Amendment, adopted after the Civil War, which makes anyone born in the country a citizen, with very limited exceptions.

    The executive order was blocked by several lower courts and never took effect.

    In June, the Supreme Court struck down Trump’s order by a 6-3 vote. But the vote was too close for many immigration advocates and legal observers who felt the legal question of birthright citizenship was a long-settled issue.

  • The live-fire restaurant's casual side.
    Overhead shot of four dishes on a wood table at ALTO: a breaded cutlet topped with melted cheese, tongue and trout roe on toast, two oysters with chimichurri on black stones, and avocado ceviche in yellow broth.
    A spread from ALTO's new bar menu, including the Tongue & Trout Roe Toast, oysters, avocado ceviche and Milanga Fugazeta.

    Topline:

    ALTO chef-owners Esteban Klenzi and Juana Castellanos have launched a new bar and lounge, bringing Argentine vermouth culture and everyday Rioplatense dishes to the Studio City restaurant.

    Why it matters: ALTO built its name on special-occasion asado, but the new bar menu — choripán, beef tongue, vermouth service — gives regulars a reason to come back during the week for a casual bite, not just for a milestone dinner.

    Read on … for what to order, what to drink, and how the two chefs are turning ALTO into a neighborhood spot …

    Just past the doorway at ALTO, off busy Ventura Boulevard in Studio City, the bar opens up under exposed post-and-beam ceilings, tanned cowhides hanging along the walls like abstract art.

    Grab a seat at one of the small tables and settle in for the open-fire South American restaurant's new, more casual bar concept, where street food takes center stage from executive Chef Esteban Klenzi and co-founder Juana Castellanos.

    In its first year, ALTO has already landed a spot in the Michelin Guide California.

    One culture, two chefs

    Both chefs came up through fine dining — including time in Spain's Basque Country — and watched their peers wear rigid, high-pressure kitchen culture as a badge of honor.

    But Castellanos and Klenzi wanted something different.

    For Klenzi, cooking is as much about feeling as it is about food — an idea his new bar menu extends directly.

    "It's like cooking at home for my friends or my family," he said.

    Black-and-white portrait of two ALTO chefs standing against a plain gray backdrop, facing each other in profile. The woman on the left wears a white apron over a T-shirt, her hair pulled back, one hand resting thoughtfully at her chin as she smiles. The man on the right wears a dark apron over a light T-shirt, arms crossed, a tattoo visible on his forearm, smiling back at her.
    ALTO Co-Founder Chef Juana Castellanos and Executive Chef Esteban Klenzi.
    (
    Courtesy ALTO
    )

    Their connection runs deeper than the kitchen, though. Both chefs grew up around the Río de la Plata, the shared basin uniting Argentina and Uruguay into a single Rioplatense identity — once part of the same Spanish colonial territory before an 1828 treaty, brokered under British pressure, split them apart. Not unlike the Basque Country straddling Spain and France: one culture, divided by a border neither side chose.

    What to order

    The bar leans into what Klenzi calls the rotisserías tradition — the everyday, prepared-food spots common across Argentina. That shows up in the Tongue & Trout Roe Toast ($17): sous-vide beef tongue over brioche, finished with a celery-carrot vinaigrette and a crown of trout roe. It's a savory, briny bite, perfect for sharing to start the meal.

    The Tongue & Trout Roe Toast, one of the standout bites on ALTO's new bar menu.
    Close-up of two pieces of toast on a dark plate, each topped with ruffled, thin-sliced beef tongue tinted pale pink, scattered with chopped herbs and diced vegetables, and crowned with a generous mound of glistening orange roe.
    (
    Soledad Recatume
    /
    Courtesy ALTO
    )

    The Real Deal ($18) — ALTO's take on the classic choripán sandwich — pulls from the dinner menu, too: short rib and smoked pork, the same cuts used in the Asado Banderita and Pork Txuleta.

    When the pair first sat down to design the menu, Klenzi found himself facing a deceptively simple question: "Should we make a burger? Or shall we make a choripán?"

    They chose the choripán, prizing the way beef and pork together deliver, in his words, "the best flavor you can get from both of them." Lard from the pork chop trim adds richness; the short rib's fat keeps the sausage moist, with smokiness carried over from that same applewood-smoked chop.

    For something heartier, there's the Banderita & Frites ($39): a thinner cut of short rib than its dinner-menu counterpart, seared on both sides.

    Alongside it, try the smashed potatoes from Weiser Family Farms, cooked in the charcoal oven with beef tallow. Klenzi refuses to serve french fries — this is his answer instead, crisp outside, rich with tallow underneath.

    What to drink

    Close-up of a deep red vermouth cocktail in a rocks glass, poured over a single large, cloudy ice cube. A thin metal cocktail pick rests across the rim, skewering two dark red pieces of dried fruit garnish. Light catches the glass, casting a warm reddish glow across the table below.
    A pour from ALTO's Vermucito Experience, served over ice with soda water.
    (
    Soledad Recatume
    /
    Courtesy ALTO
    )

    Ever since I wrote about Spanish vermouth last month, I've been a magnet for the stuff — not complaining, especially during these warmer months. ALTO had me covered, though the serving style looked nothing like what I'm used to.

    Unlike the Spanish and Italian style of an orange slice and olive, Argentine vermouth is served over ice with soda water — lighter, easier to drink.

    Interior shot of ALTO's lounge area at dusk, showing four burgundy velvet armchairs arranged around small black side tables with lit candles. A brick fireplace with three votive candles sits at the center of a warm, plaster-textured wall, flanked by two textured tapestry-like wall hangings under sconce lighting. A neat stack of firewood is visible to the left.
    A cozy corner of ALTO's dining room, where velvet chairs surround a wood-burning fireplace.
    (
    Courtesy ALTO
    )

    On the table: a trio from the Vermucito Experience — Las Flores blanco from Uruguay, and La Fuerza's rojo and sideral from Argentina, Malbec-based pours ranging from $12 to $22.

    "When you pour it in the glass, it's almost red. It looks almost like a wine," Klenzi said of La Fuerza's rojo, made with Malbec. "You can really feel the pure essence of the Malbec wine."

    ALTO

    Location: 12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City

    Hours: Tuesday–Friday 5:30–9:30 p.m., Saturday 5–9:30 p.m., Sunday 5–9 p.m. Closed Monday.

    ALTO celebrates its first anniversary Aug. 13 and 14 with an à la carte collaboration dinner featuring chefs Clara Corso and Lucas Canga. Reservations are available via ALTO's Instagram.

    The regular dinner menu is a great choice for a special night out. But the bar is for every other night — the "almost every day" Klenzi imagined when he decided a choripán, not a burger, was the answer.

    "If we see your face every day, we're gonna take care of you every day," Klenzi said.