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Food

Transplant taqueria: How a Tijuana taco made its way to LA

food in red tray
Mexico taco chain Taqueria Tijuanero has locations in San Diego and East LA.
(
Courtesy Taqueria Tijuanero
)

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Listen 14:04
Taqueria Tijuanero brings Northern Mexican food across the border to LA
Guests: Aria Esquivel, owner and CFO of Taqueria Tijuanero, and Bill Esparza, James Beard award-winning food writer and taco expert.

The Esquivel family opened their first taqueria at Playas de Tijuana 15 years ago, with a focus on individually crafted tacos, each with its own pairing of salsa.

Since then, Taqueria Tijuanero — formerly Tijuanazo — has become an increasingly popular SoCal taco chain.

Owner Aria Esquivel sat down with AirTalk Friday host Austin Cross to talk about how it all started from a humble Tijuana brick-and-mortar and how they stay true to their distinct North Mexican menu.

The art of the taco

Esquivel’s father and mastermind behind Taqueria Tijuanero, Antonio Esquivel, began working in kitchens when he was 16 years old, working his way up from dishwasher to cook at French restaurants in Beverly Hills.

“What he really loved about the taco and the art of the taco in Tijuana is how these ingredients mesh so well together,” Esquivel said.

That’s when the family opened up their own restaurant in Playas de Tijuana in 2011.

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Mexico's taco diversity

Because of Mexico’s diverse landscape of crops, history and even weather patterns, taco styles can actually vary quite a bit depending on where you are in the country.

“ The tacos in Mexico City are different," Esquivel said. "The tacos in Sonora are different. The Tijuana tacos are different."

Bill Esparza, the James Beard Award-winning food writer who's spent the last two decades chronicling L.A.'s taco scene, helped curate Taqueando After Dark, a new food festival that will feature eight L.A. taco vendors, including Taqueria Tijuanero.

“When I see theirs, I see what I see in Mexico,” Esparza said of Taqueria Tijuanero’s tacos, adding, “It’s a taco that really has a lot of intentionality behind it.”

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How to experience Taqueando After Dark festival

Promotional flyer for Taqueando After Dark, listing the event date, venue, and lineup details over photos of tacos on ceramic plates.
Taqueando After Dark takes over Level 8 for two nights, Aug. 27 and 28. (Courtesy of Level 8)
(
Courtesy Taqueando After Dark
)

Location: Level 8, inside the Moxy Hotel — 1254 S Figueroa St., 8th Floor
Dates: Thursday, Aug. 27 and Friday, Aug. 28, 6 p.m.– late

Cost: $40–$135 (each ticket valid for one night only; general admission includes 5–6 bites)

Add-ons: Early chef access, all-you-can-drink package, $35 guided tequila tasting

Tickets: eventbrite.com

Read more: LA taqueros meet Baja’s best for two-night DTLA taco festival

New location coming:

  • The family is in the process of opening its third SoCal location in Echo Park.

How to visit:

  • Address: 355 S Atlantic Blvd., East Los Angeles
  • Hours: Closed on Mondays | Tuesday-Sunday, open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
  • Costs: Tacos are $3.95 each
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