Cato Hernández
has scoured through tons of archives to understand how our region became the way it is today.
Published August 16, 2024 5:00 AM
The irrigation ditch was discovered in Chinatown by the two amateur archeologists in 2000.
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Genaro Molina
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Security Pacific National Bank Collection/Los Angeles Public Library
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Topline:
Do you know the story of Los Angeles’ first water system? No, we’re not talking about the L.A. Aqueduct. The Zanja Madre was a network of ditches and pre-industrial piping that brought liquid gold to homes and farms, starting in 1781.
What was the zanja system? Long before Angelenos got their water through the Colorado River, our water came from the L.A. River. The Zanja Madre was the first section of trenches that the original settlers of L.A. built within weeks of arriving. Over the decades, it grew to have 52 miles of piping, some made of dirt, cement or brick.
How were these maintained? A city zanja department was established to care for the system, which needed close attention. The Zanjero, or “water overseer,” handled maintenance and enforcement of water permit rules with a group of deputies. They could arrest you if you used water without permission.
Why did it end? The zanja system fell out of use in 1904 largely because it couldn’t keep up with the water demands of our growing population. But remnants can still be found around the city.
William Mullholland is often hailed as the man who brought water to Los Angeles, but there’s an earlier group Angelenos owe flowers to: The original founders of L.A., and the Zanja Madre.
The system of zanjas — Spanish for trench or ditch — was the city’s first irrigation network that brought water from the L.A. River to people’s homes and fields.
Listen
0:53
Was the LA Aqueduct the city's first water system? Nope, it’s the Zanja Madre
How the ditches began
For the 44 pobladores who came from New Spain (modern Mexico) to settle in today’s downtown, every drop of water was liquid gold. Having quick access to water helped sustain life and raised crops for food.
When the pueblo of Los Angeles was founded in 1781, the town was purposely located near the L.A. River. One of the first things community members built in June of that year was a water system. They joined together to carve out the first sections of a crude dirt pipeline delivering L.A. River water, the Zanja Madre (Mother Ditch), about seven weeks after settling.
They finished it in October 1781, but once the United States seized power, more zanjas were dug out. That led to the earliest industrial use of the Zanja Madre by Eagle Flour Mills in 1855, according to archeologist Marc Beherec, and more heavy use followed.
Map showing the route of the Zanja Madre irrigation system in 1888.
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Security Pacific National Bank Collection
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Los Angeles Public Library
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But the zanja system was delicate. The dam intake had to be repaired after rain and the ditches had to be cleaned up often for the water to reach each customer.
The Zanjero, or “water overseer,” was responsible for maintaining the system alongside a group of deputies. The position got paid better than the mayor, signifying the price tag and commodification of water.
They ensured ditches worked properly, but there was another element that made the job a big deal — they wore police badges and had the authority to arrest anyone using the water without a permit.
Did you know?
In 1881, the L.A. city council voted to change “zanja” and “zanjero” to “ditch” and “water overseer” to accommodate English-speaking residents.
The city created a zanja department, but the day-to-day was still rough. At one point, zanjeros missed a day of work because all the shovels broke. Then, floods in 1884 washed out the dirt ditches and made officials go back to the drawing board. The result, costing $125,000, was to turn some of the zanjas into closed brick conduits and improve others with concrete.
The zanjas reached their prime that decade, with an estimated 6,897 acres irrigated in city limits, including vineyards and citrus farms.
By 1902, the zanja system was made up of four separate areas connecting back to the L.A. River. At its height, L.A. had 52 miles of zanja.
An undated look at the interior of the Zanja Madre, which was uncovered during the wrecking of the first Department of Water and Power building.
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Historical Photo Collection of the LADWP
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Los Angeles Public Library
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Why the zanjas died off
There were public-use and safety concerns.
That’s because the zanja network was a bit haphazard. Some of it was still above ground or not upgraded with cement. For example, in 1898 an association petitioned the City Council to lay pipes down on Naomi Avenue in a bid to get a “very dangerous” open zanja closed off.
People would bathe in these zanjas, which at some points could be 12 feet wide. Residents would go for a summer swim, dump trash, and even wash their clothes in the water they’d drink and irrigate from.
A group of people wash clothes in the Zanja Madre, circa 1900.
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Security Pacific National Bank Collection/Los Angeles Public Library
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But it was William Mulholland who may have sealed the zanjas’ fate.
As superintendent of the L.A. Water Department, he wrote in a 1903 report to the board of water commissioners that “the zanja system has made its usual poor showing for the year,” making sure to show how the upkeep expenses were outpacing income.
Then, after a rainless summer, Mulholland allocated the water to the domestic drinking supply only — stripping farmers of the much needed resource — to start shutting it down.
May 1904 was the last month the city zanja department sold water. The ditches were abandoned, but portions were repurposed for a stormwater system.
Where they’ve been found today
The Thomas Douglas Stimson house at 2421 South Figueroa Street near Adams Street, Los Angeles. It was built in Romanesque revival style in 1891. Next o it, is an open zanja.
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Security Pacific National Bank Collection/Los Angeles Public Library
Eighteen archaeological encounters with the system have been documented as of 2022, though there have likely been more times people have come across the pipes.
But officially, crews have found it during things like Metro line work, street widenings, and building construction.
You can run into the zanja system, too. Olvera Street has a brick path extending from the fountain that represents the route of the Zanja Madre, and the Stimson House on Figueroa Street still has the above ground barriers up.
Yusra Farzan
has covered the Rancho Palos Verdes landslide since 2023.
Published April 20, 2026 5:00 AM
Landslide damage resulting in uneven pavement along Palos Verdes Drive South in Rancho Palos Verdes on April 4, 2026.
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Brian Feinzimer
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LAist
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Topline:
Roughly three years after above average rainfall fueled a devastating landslide in Rancho Palos Verdes, the landscape has become almost unrecognizable. Homes, ripped apart by the land movement, have been wiped away, creating swaths of unusable open space. Trying to slow the landslide has pushed the city to the financial brink. But also caught in the landslide’s crosshairs is a beloved seaside network of trails that continues to be pulled apart and will never be the same.
How we got here: The area was once green rolling hills offering spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean and Catalina Island. Now, much of the land is riddled with 20-foot chasms, some of which span 12 feet. For decades, land movement was minimal. But with above average rainfall in 2022 and 2023 it rapidly accelerated — up to 1 foot per week in some places. Land movement has since slowed to about 1.6 inches a week, thanks in part to wells the city installed that suck water out of the ground, but damage to the around 16 miles of trails remains and will likely never be abated.
The effects on nature: The California gnatchater, a small songbird that the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service calls “threatened” and the endangered Palos Verdes blue butterfly rely on certain host plants within the preserve. Cris Sarabia, conservation director for the Palos Verdes Peninsula Land Conservancy, said the species can also benefit from less human activity.
Roughly three years after above-average rainfall fueled a devastating landslide in Rancho Palos Verdes, the landscape has become almost unrecognizable. Homes, ripped apart by the land movement, have been wiped away, creating swaths of unusable open space. Trying to slow the landslide has pushed the city to the financial brink.
But also caught in the landslide’s crosshairs is a beloved seaside network of trails that continues to be pulled apart and will never be the same.
The area was once green rolling hills offering spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean and Catalina Island. Now, much of the land is riddled with 20-foot chasms, some of which span 12 feet.
For decades, land movement was minimal. But above-average rainfall in 2022 and 2023 rapidly accelerated — up to 1 foot per week in some places — prompting Southern California Edison and SoCalGas to shut off utilities for hundreds of residents.
Landslide damage has closed dozens of trails in the Portuguese Bend area of Rancho Palos Verdes on April 4.
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Brian Feinzimer
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LAist
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Landslide damage has closed dozens of trails in the Portuguese Bend community area of Rancho Palos Verdes on April 4.
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Brian Feinzimer
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LAist
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Land movement has since slowed to about 1.6 inches a week, thanks in part to wells the city installed that suck water out of the ground, but damage to the around 16 miles of trails remains and will likely never be abated.
"We don't traverse those areas on a regular basis. We occasionally use drones to look at the damage,” said Ara Mihranian, Rancho Palos Verdes’ city manager. “You can't get across certain trails, so if we even went down into a certain area, we wouldn't be able to continue because of the open fissures in the ground.”
William Lavoie of the Palos Verdes South Bay group of the Sierra Club has hiked trails in the 1,500 acre-Palos Verdes Nature Reserve once a week for about 25 years. Before the city closed off the area, he said he saw a telephone pole “ tipping at about a 30-degree angle.”
Landslides resulted in a home being severely damaged in Rancho Palos Verdes on April 4.
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Brian Feinzimer
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LAist
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“ I understand why they closed the trails because there were some pretty good-sized fissures,” he said. “It would be very sad if somebody broke a leg or twisted an ankle or broke an ankle.”
The effects on nature
But the destruction hasn’t been a total loss.
The California gnatcatcher, a small songbird that the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service calls “threatened” and the endangered Palos Verdes blue butterfly rely on certain host plants within the preserve.
“ The habitat that supports the wildlife has been fragmented, has been damaged with fissures opening up in the ground, splitting apart. Coastal sage scrub has actually been sucked in by the fissures,” Mihranian said. “That impacts the corridors and the wildlife patterns that you see out in the preserve.”
But Cris Sarabia, conservation director for the Palos Verdes Peninsula Land Conservancy, said the species can also benefit from less human activity.
“ Both of those endangered species have wings so they could essentially fly,” he said. “So the fissures on the trails or the cracks in the ground don't necessarily cause big impacts to them because they're able to move around.”
Sarabia said his organization is also tracking the cactus wren bird that resides in a cactus found within the landslide area.
“ We have been working closely with the different entities doing the [mitigation] work to avoid as much habitat as possible, but unfortunately some of these areas overlap,” he said.
Meanwhile, the conservancy is trying to salvage the cactus and preparing for restoration of the sites, collecting native seeds and growing new plants.
But the true extent of the damage and the effects to wildlife are unclear, Mihranian said, because city officials haven’t been able to go in to do a full assessment — the area is too unsafe.
”It's going to be a herculean effort and a very costly one as well,” Mihranian said of repairing the damage.
A colossal financial drain
Listen
0:43
How Rancho Palos Verdes’ beloved hiking trails have been forever altered by landslide
When the current fiscal year ends in June, Rancho Palos Verdes will have spent close $65 million on efforts related to the landslide since October 2022. For context, the city’s annual operating budget is around $40 million.
“ The city has taken a huge hit on this emergency response,” Mihranian said.
Rancho Palos Verdes has appealed to state and federal officials for assistance, but with little to no success.
Adding salt to the wounds, the city has also lost out on revenue from parking fees for the preserve. Revenue generated at the Abalone Cove Park lot has dropped from $150,000 each year, to just $11,000, according to the city. Revenue from parking near Del Cerro Park also decreased from around $32,000 in fiscal year 2022-23 to just $4,000.
Not to mention all the homes that have been lost, uprooting the lives of residents who haven’t been able to resell, instead relying on a government-backed buy back program.
Alternative trail routes
Lavoie, the Sierra Club member, said despite the trail closures, the vast open space in the Palos Verdes Peninsula means there are plenty of alternatives.
Here are some of his favorites:
Lavoie affectionately calls the trail behind Highridge Park “the maze.” It’s an easy one-hour walk and you get to share the trail with horses.
Malaga Cove: Pass Neptune fountain, the library and post office to continue along a grassy hill shaded by eucalyptus trees. Use the utility pathway to reach La Venta Inn.
The Via Buena stairs in Lunada Bay.
There are lots of great trails that start at Ernie Howlett Park.
Anyone can join the Palos Verdes South Bay group of the Sierra Club on their hikes in the peninsula. Check their calendar for meeting spots and times.
Destiny Torres
is LAist's general assignment reporter and brings you the top news you need for the day.
Published April 20, 2026 5:00 AM
Tickets to the FIFA Fan Festival at the L.A. Memorial Coliseum go on sale this week.
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David McNew
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Getty Images
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Topline:
Tickets to the FIFA Fan Festival will go on sale next week for eager soccer fans who want to celebrate the World Cup at the L.A. Memorial Coliseum.
What’s the Fan Festival? The festival is a four-day event featuring live music and other entertainment. Soccer fans will also be able to watch live matches.
Read on … for what you need to know before the sale goes live.
Soccer fans who want to celebrate the World Cup at the L.A. Memorial Coliseum will be able to purchase tickets to the FIFA Fan Festival on April 22.
The four-day celebration begins the same day as the tournament, June 11, and goes through June 14. It’ll include live music, match broadcasts and other entertainment, according to FIFA.
Los Angeles is hosting eight tournament matches at SoFi Stadium in Inglewood this summer, including the match between the U.S. and Paraguay on June 12.
What you need to know
General admission tickets are $10, and reserved club and loge seats are $30. Children younger than 12 years old are free.
If event days are not sold out, fans can also purchase tickets at the Coliseum’s box office at Gate 29.
The venue does enforce strict bag rules. Any bags must be clear, and exceptions can be made for special circumstances, like medical or infant care items.
What games will be broadcast?
Fans can catch some World Cup matches on big screens. Here’s the schedule:
June 11 Mexico vs. South Africa, noon
June 12 Canada vs Bosnia and Herzegovina, noon U.S.A. vs Paraguay, 6 p.m.
June 13 Brazil vs Morocco, 3 p.m. Haiti vs Scotland, 6 p.m.
June 14 Germany vs Curacao, 10 a.m. Netherlands vs Japan, 1 p.m.
How do I get to the Coliseum?
There’s more than one way to get to the venue. For public transit, the Metro E Line makes two stops near the Coliseum — Expo Park/USC and Expo/Vermont.
There will also be a designated area for rideshare drop-offs and pickups at Vermont Avenue between Exposition Boulevard and Downey Way.
Additional parking will also be available just a short walk from the venue on the USC campus. You can pre-book parking spaces starting at $55, here.
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Beyonce's 'Lemonade' turns 10 this year, with a celebration happening at El Cid.
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Duane Prokop
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Getty Images
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In this edition:
LACMA opens the David Geffen Galleries, a no-waste Earth Day with local chefs, Reefer Madness tokes up on 4/20 and more of the best things to do this week.
Highlights:
Spend Earth Day revisiting the environmentally conscious kids’ classic FernGully. Comedians like Cameron Esposito, Eric Bauza, Christa B. Allen and many more star in this live reading at Dynasty Typewriter. A donation will be made to the World Wildlife Fund.
You thought I’d forget that today is 4/20? Celebrate with a live performance of the musical Reefer Madness, based on the 1936 anti-marijuana propaganda film, on through May 10 at the Wisteria Theater in North Hollywood. Those crazy kids.
Join PBS SoCal for this special Independent Lens pop-up screening of the upcoming documentary, The Librarians. The film follows a Texas battle over restrictions on race and LGBTQIA+ materials, and tells the story of the librarians on the front lines. As lawmakers around the country push boundaries of censorship, the film looks at “the broader implications on these restrictions for education and public life.”
The new David Geffen Galleries at LACMA opened to members this week, and I was thrilled to get a sneak peek at the space. The Brutalist spaceship-like arm that reaches across Wilshire Boulevard is organized loosely (even the accompanying guidebook is titled “Wander”), bringing decorative arts, design and photography onto the same plane as traditional painting and sculpture.
I particularly liked the American West rooms and the design-focused areas that somehow make even a full-sized car look small. Outside is just as impressive, with a Rodin sculpture garden and old friends like Alexander Calder’s "Three Quintains (Hello Girls)" — first commissioned for the museum in 1965 — getting a new home and water feature. There are lots of new spots to explore during the next Jazz at LACMA, for sure.
Licorice Pizza has your music picks, including Monday’s lineup of Biffy Clyro at the Belasco, Maya Hawke at Sid The Cat Auditorium, Langhorne Slim at the Troubadour, Young the Giant at the Grammy Museum and David Lee Roth runnin’ with the devil at House of Blues Anaheim. On Tuesday, Throwing Muses plays the Teragram, Failure plays Zebulon, Cheap Trick transforms Pomona College’s Bridges Auditorium into Budokan and the UK’s Flyte plays their first of two nights at the LodgeRoom.
Wednesday, Daptone Records soul trio Thee Sacred Souls is at the Greek Theatre (they’ll play there Thursday as well). Also Thursday, She Wants Revenge is at the Wiltern, Ari Lennox is at YouTube Theater, fabulous showman Bright Light Bright Light plays the Mint and Britain’s Art Brut performs their entire album Bang Bang Rock & Roll at the LodgeRoom.
Wednesday, April 22, 6:30 p.m. Emerson College Los Angeles 5960 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood COST: FREE; MORE INFO
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Courtesy PBS SoCal
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Join PBS SoCal for this special Indie Lens pop-up screening of the upcoming documentary, The Librarians. The film follows a Texas battle over restrictions on race and LGBTQ+ materials and tells the story of the librarians on the front lines. As lawmakers around the country push boundaries of censorship, the film looks at “the broader implications on these restrictions for education and public life.”
Mill at Little City Farm: No-waste dinners
Wednesday and Thursday, April 22 and 23 Little City Farm 1148 S. Victoria Ave., Koreatown COST: $125; MORE INFO
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Courtesy Mona Creative
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Big-name local chefs like Quarter Sheets’ Aaron Lindell and Wildair’s Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske Valtierra try their hand at no-waste cooking at Little City Farm for Earth Week in collaboration with home composting company, Mill. On Wednesday, (Earth Day): Mike Fadem of James Beard semifinalist pizza restaurant Ops will collaborate with Lindell to create no-waste pizza recipes. Then, on Thursday, Stone and Valtierra team up with 2026 James Beard Emerging Chef finalist Fátima Juárez of Komal to showcase Mexican heritage-inspired dishes. All proceeds benefit LA Compost.
OC Made
Through Saturday, August 1 Fullerton Museum Center 301. N Pomona Ave., Fullerton COST: $10; MORE INFO
Head to the Fullerton Museum Center for a new biennial juried exhibition, OC Made. It’s the first show of its kind dedicated to artists living and working in Orange County. This year’s crop features 108 artists and more than 130 pieces spanning painting, photography, sculpture and mixed media. Among the winners are Ramón Vargas for his piece "Wolf," plus curators’ choice nominees Jacquelin Nagel for "Begonia Maculata" and Brooke Hunter for "Center Stage." And keep an eye out for other events at the museum, like the Downtown Fullerton Art Walk on May 1.
Genesis Talks: Michael Govan and Peter Zumthor
Wednesday, April 22, 7 p.m. LACMA 5905 Wilshire Blvd., Miracle Mile COST: $10; MORE INFO
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Brigitte Lacombe
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Finn Partners
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This event is currently sold out, but keep an eye out for a last-minute chance to get a behind-the-scenes look at the design and building of LACMA’s new David Geffen Galleries with LACMA CEO Michael Govan and Swiss architect Peter Zumthor.
Reefer Madness: The Musical
Through Sunday, May 10 Wisteria Theater 7061 Vineland Ave., North Hollywood COST: FROM $58; MORE INFO
You thought I’d forget that today is 4/20? Celebrate with a viewing of the musical Reefer Madness, based on the 1936 anti-marijuana propaganda film, on through May 10 at the Wisteria Theater in North Hollywood. Those crazy kids.
Lemonade 10-Year Anniversary Party
Thursday, April 23 El Cid 4212 Sunset Blvd., Silverlake COST: FREE; MORE INFO
Beyoncé's 'Lemonade' turns 10 years old.
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Frederick M. Brown
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Getty Images
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Has it really been 10 years since Beyoncé released Lemonade? El Cid says so, so it must be true. Dance off your fears about getting old at this anniversary album party.
Earth Day with FernGully
Wednesday, April 22, 7 p.m. Dynasty Typewriter 2511 Wilshire Blvd., MacArthur Park COST: $20; MORE INFO
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Courtesy Dynasty Typewriter
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Spend Earth Day revisiting the environmentally conscious 1992 kids’ classic FernGully (soon to also be a live-action film directed by Marielle Heller — the nostalgia is real). Comedians like Cameron Esposito, Eric Bauza, Christa B. Allen and many more star in this live reading at Dynasty Typewriter. A donation will be made to the World Wildlife Fund.
Living Legends of Drag
Wednesday, April 22, 7:30 p.m. Barnsdall Gallery Theatre 4800 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz COST: FREE; MORE INFO
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Lil Miss Hot Mess
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Eventbrite
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Join drag kings and queens, including El Daña (the Guinness World Records' certified oldest performing drag king), Mo B. Dick (Drag King History), "Mother" Karina Samala (Imperial Court of Los Angeles and Hollywood), Jazzmun (Peanuts) and Manny Oakley (LA Drag Archive) for a panel — and, of course, a performance — about drag history and culture. Hosted by Lil Miss Hot Mess, the event is free and part of the National Humanities Center’s Being Human Festival, which runs through May 3.
A woman walks past a banner showing missiles being launched, in northern Tehran, Iran, on Friday.
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Vahid Salemi
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AP
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Topline:
A woman was arrested at LAX on Saturday night for allegedly trafficking arms on behalf of the Iranian government, according to authorities.
Why now: Shamim Mafi of Woodland Hills is charged with helping the regime sell drones, bombs, bomb fuses and millions of rounds of ammunition to Sudan.
The backstory: Bill Essayli, First Assistant U.S. Attorney for the Central District of California, made the arrest announcement Sunday morning on social media.
A woman was arrested for allegedly trafficking arms on behalf of the Iranian government at LAX on Saturday night, according to authorities.
Shamim Mafi of Woodland Hills is charged with helping the regime sell drones, bombs and millions of rounds of ammunition to Sudan.
Bill Essayli, First Assistant U.S. Attorney for the Central District of California, made the arrest announcement Sunday morning on social media.
The 44-year-old Mafi is expected to appear in court for a bond hearing Monday afternoon in downtown L.A.
According to the criminal complaint filed by the Department of Justice and obtained by LAist, Mafi allegedly brokered weapons deals on behalf of Iran through Atlas International, a business in Oman she co-owns, including facilitating a contract valued at more than €60 million (or some US $70 million) for the sale of Iranian-made armed drones to Sudan.
She is also being accused of brokering the sale of 55,000 bomb fuses, AK-47 machine guns and other weapons to the Sudanese Ministry of Defense.
Mafi faces up to 20 years in federal prison if convicted.
Essayli said Mafi is an Iranian national who became a permanent resident of the U.S. in 2016.
