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Take Two

'Surf Craft': The art of surfboard design

"Surf Craft: Design and the Culture of Board Riding" by Richard Kenvin.
"Surf Craft: Design and the Culture of Board Riding" by Richard Kenvin.
(
The MIT Press
)
Tom "Pohaku" Stone. Traditional Hawaiian "alaia," used as a bellyboard, kneeboard, and stand-up board. 87.5" x 19.5" x .75"; Redwood. Collection of Larry Fuller.
Tom "Pohaku" Stone. Traditional Hawaiian "alaia," used as a bellyboard, kneeboard, and stand-up board. 87.5" x 19.5" x .75"; Redwood. Collection of Larry Fuller.
(
The MIT Press
)
Bob Simmons. Hydrodynamic planing hull with concave bottom and dual keels. 1949. 122" x 23.5" x 3.5"; Balsa, redwood, resin, fiberglass. Surfing Heritage & Culture Center.
Bob Simmons. Hydrodynamic planing hull with concave bottom and dual keels. 1949. 122" x 23.5" x 3.5"; Balsa, redwood, resin, fiberglass. Surfing Heritage & Culture Center.
(
The MIT Press
)
Bob Simmons. Hydrodynamic planing hull with slots and dual keels. Early 1950s. 96" x 23" x 3.5"; Balsa, resin, fiberglass. Collection of Meistrell family.
Bob Simmons. Hydrodynamic planing hull with slots and dual keels. Early 1950s. 96" x 23" x 3.5"; Balsa, resin, fiberglass. Collection of Meistrell family.
(
The MIT Press
)
Val Valentine. "Paipo nui." 1960s. 43" x 30" x .0325"; Laminated plywood veneer. Surfing Heritage & Culture Center.
Val Valentine. Paipo nui. 1960s. 43" x 30" x .0325"; Laminated plywood veneer. Surfing Heritage & Culture Center.
(
The MIT Press
)

Take Two translates the day’s headlines for Southern California, making sense of the news and cultural events that affect our lives. Produced by Southern California Public Radio and broadcast from October 2012 – June 2021. Hosted by A Martinez.

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Today, most surfboards are mass produced and made out of fiberglass: a material strong enough to support a person riding a breaking wave yet light enough to carry around.

But this hasn't always been the case. For many years, surf boards were made out of wood and carefully crafted by hand. And according to surf historian Richard Kenvin, they were more than just something to help one play on the waves  — surfboards were a true art form.

Richard Kenvin is the author of a book out next month called "Surf Craft" and the curator of the Surf Craft exhibit on right now at the Mingei International Museum in San Diego, CA. He joins Take Two for a discussion about the art of surfboard design.