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The Brief

The most important stories for you to know today
  • Meet the candidates running for the office
    Stockton Mayor Michael Tubbs, a man with dark skin tone, wearing a gray suit and blue tie, speaks behind a desk with microphones as he looks like a person with light skin tone, wearing a black suit, sitting out of focus in the foreground.
    Stockton Mayor Michael Tubbs in Sacramento on July 10, 2018.

    Topline:

    Five major candidates, including state Treasurer Fiona Ma and former Stockton Mayor Michael Tubbs, are competing for the notoriously anticlimactic gig of lieutenant governor.

    About the position: It’s true that California’s lieutenant governor is mostly a ceremonial position. Eleni Kounalakis, who currently holds the position, is next in line if the governor is absent or vacates the office, such as when they’re out-of-state, undergoing surgery or if they die. Kounalakis, who terms out this year, is also president of the state Senate and can cast a rare tie-breaking vote if called upon. Most of her influence lies within higher education, where she sits on all three of the state’s higher education boards.

    Why it matters: Because of this, the four major leading candidates for the office in the upcoming June primary are emphasizing the sway they’d like to have on higher education, such as freezing tuition or cutting back on remedial coursework.

    Read on... to meet the candidates.

    The candidates running for lieutenant governor are apt to hint at the post’s largely symbolic and overlooked status when discussing their ambitions for the statewide office.

    It’s true that California’s lieutenant governor is mostly a ceremonial position. Eleni Kounalakis, who currently holds the position, is next in line if the governor is absent or vacates the office, such as when they’re out-of-state, undergoing surgery or if they die. Kounalakis, who terms out this year, is also president of the state Senate and can cast a rare tie-breaking vote if called upon. Most of her influence lies within higher education, where she sits on all three of the state’s higher education boards.

    Because of this, the four major leading candidates for the office in the upcoming June primary are emphasizing the sway they’d like to have on higher education, such as freezing tuition or cutting back on remedial coursework.

    Previous lieutenant governors have used the office as a stepping stone to the state’s top job, including Gov. Gavin Newsom who held the position for eight years before his election in 2018.

    But it’s still mostly unknown to voters and suffers a poor reputation.

    “I called the lieutenant governor sort of the Seinfeld of state government, because nobody knows who it is, and then they think it’s a job about nothing,” Gloria Romero, a Republican candidate, told CalMatters.

    The major Democratic candidates include Josh Fryday, who leads volunteer programs in the Newsom administration, state Treasurer Fiona Ma who terms out this year, and former Stockton Mayor Michael Tubbs.

    Here is what each candidate, in alphabetical order, said about how they’d approach the gig.

    Josh Fryday

    Fryday said one of his biggest priorities as lieutenant governor would be to try to get California community colleges to credential more trade workers to help build more clean energy projects and boost the state’s renewable energy supply.

    Prior to becoming part of the governor’s cabinet in 2019, he was the chief operating officer of NextGen America, a clean advocacy organization started by billionaire Democratic gubernatorial candidate Tom Steyer.

    He also said he would push for developing more student housing on public land to increase enrollment and create more revenue to stem rising tuition costs.

    The former mayor of Novato also emphasized expanding the volunteer service program he helped develop as chief service officer in Newsom’s cabinet. He would like it to include more community colleges and universities. In addition to Newsom’s support, he’s endorsed by the California Teachers Association and California Federation of Teachers.

    Janelle Kellman

    Former Sausalito mayor Janelle Kellman wants to make community college free and expand training programs for in-demand jobs as a member of the state’s higher education boards. But the lieutenant governor is one of 18 members on the UC Board of Regents and has limited capacity to enact a single policy change.

    She’s received support from the California Legislative Jewish Caucus and the LGBTQ Stonewall Democratic Club.

    The lieutenant governor has no role in electricity regulation or insurance. But Kellman, a climate attorney, said she would work to cut utility costs by getting rid of extra electricity fees. She also said she’d work with the insurance commissioner to reduce premiums for homeowners who take preventive measures to mitigate wildfire risks.

    Kellman spent 10 years in local government on Sausalito’s planning commission and city council and is the founder of a climate nonprofit focused on sea level rise.

    She also supports building more student housing.

    Fiona Ma

    Finding other ways to generate revenue for Cal State universities outside the general fund is one way Ma would look to lower the cost of housing and tuition. She supports partnering more with private companies to lease out spaces such as campus theaters when they’re not being used.

    Ma has an exhaustive resume in local and state politics: She spent six years in the Assembly after one term on the San Francisco Board of Supervisors and was on the Board of Equalization for four years before she was elected state treasurer in 2019.

    State Treasurer Fiona Ma, a woman with medium skin tone, wearing a pink jacket, listens to someone out of frame as she sits at a wooden desk.
    State Treasurer Fiona Ma in the Senate chambers at the state Capitol in Sacramento on Jan. 5, 2026.
    (
    Miguel Gutierrez Jr.
    /
    CalMatters/Pool
    )

    As treasurer, she has issued housing bonds to California universities, which she said has given her “a different perspective” on how to build more student housing.

    “Some of them do have land and they are working with some of the developers that have a speciality with building student housing” she said.

    Ma is endorsed by construction and hospitality unions. She was accused of sexual harassment by a former employee in 2021, who accused Ma of requiring her to share a hotel room with her and buying her gifts. The state, using taxpayer dollars, settled the lawsuit for $350,000 in 2024.

    Ma has repeatedly denied the accusations and called the lawsuit "frivolous."

    It took up three years of her life, and voters still elected her, she said. “I still got all the same endorsements that I got the first time I ran in 2018,” Ma said. “I’ve gotten even more support for my lieutenant governor’s race.”

    Gloria Romero

    Romero, a former Democrat-turned-Republican, supports school vouchers to let parents use taxpayer dollars to pay for private school education — which teachers unions vehemently oppose. She also supports slashing remedial coursework to help students finish their degrees faster.

    Former state Sen. Gloria Romero, a woman with light skin tone, speaks behind a podium next to other people holding signage that read "California for safer communities" and "Stop smash-and-grab retail thefts." in front of a business and palm trees in the background.
    Former state Sen. Gloria Romero in Culver City on April 18, 2024.
    (
    Ryan Sun
    /
    AP Photo
    )

    A former assemblymember and first woman to become Senate Majority Leader, Romero spent 12 years representing east Los Angeles in the state Legislature as a Democrat until 2010. She switched parties in 2024 and announced her lieutenant governor run as a joint ticket with Steve Hilton, one of the leading Republican candidates for governor.

    On how she’d navigate negotiating with the Democratic supermajority in the Legislature and on numerous boards as a rare Republican, Romero said she would individually meet with each colleague to see where their priorities overlap.

    Michael Tubbs

    Tubbs is looking to return to office to help drive down the cost of higher education more than a decade after skyrocketing to political stardom in Stockton as one of the youngest big city mayors in the county.

    His ascent as the city’s first Black and youngest mayor at 26 in 2016 garnered him national attention as the son of a single mother raised in a poor neighborhood who climbed his way to full ride at Stanford.

    He supports freezing tuition at all public colleges by cutting “administrative bloat,” cutting remedial coursework that doesn’t count toward graduation requirements and streamlining programs for in-demand industries such as nursing.

    Tubbs is a special economic adviser to the governor and leads the nonprofit organizations Poverty in California and Mayors for a Guaranteed Income, dedicated to implementing universal basic income pilot programs in cities across the state, a flagship initiative of his mayorship.

    California’s major public employee union, Service Employees International, is supporting Tubbs.

    This article was originally published on CalMatters and was republished under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives license.

  • What we know about the companies involved
    Crews wearing safety vests apply dirt on a street with oil on the pavement. A small plaza and bust stop are behind them.
    Crews clean the scene along Cesar E. Chavez and Eastern avenues, where gallons of crude oil spilled onto the street.

    Topline:

    A week after an underground pipeline near East Cesar E. Chavez and North Eastern avenues was punctured, questions remain about who was responsible.

    The backstory: Officials said early reports indicated a boring crew conducting directional drilling for a fiber optic line struck the 16-inch petroleum pipeline, which sent an estimated 2,400 gallons of crude oil onto nearby streets and into storm drains and the Los Angeles River. Streets in the area reopened Thursday after days of closures that disrupted nearby residents, businesses and schools, though more soil remediation remains ahead. Spill report updates from the California Office of Emergency Services indicate that the reported cause of the spill was a “human error.”

    How to file a claim: Claims of damage believed to be caused by the spill can be submitted to PPS by calling (877) 817-5465. Callers will be prompted to leave their name and contact information in a voicemail for a representative to return the call.

    Read on... for more on the companies involved.

    The story first appeared on LA Local.

    A week after an underground pipeline near East Cesar E. Chavez and North Eastern avenues was punctured, questions remain about who was responsible.

    Officials said early reports indicated a boring crew conducting directional drilling for a fiber optic line struck the 16-inch petroleum pipeline, which sent an estimated 2,400 gallons of crude oil onto nearby streets and into storm drains and the Los Angeles River. Streets in the area reopened Thursday after days of closures that disrupted nearby residents, businesses and schools, though more soil remediation remains ahead.

    Spill report updates from the California Office of Emergency Services indicate that the reported cause of the spill was a “human error.”

    Here’s what we know about the companies involved:

    Who operated the pipeline?

    The pipeline is operated by Pacific Pipeline System, which since 2006 has been owned by Plains All American Pipeline.

    Who was drilling?

    In the hours after the spill, Boyle Heights Beat reporters witnessed a truck labeled Camarillo Drilling Inc. A Camarillo Drilling representative told the Beat they were seeking counsel and could not confirm if they were working at the site.

    A February 2026 report from the state Department of Water Resources notes that Camarillo Drilling Company, in April 2020, punctured the Santa Ana Pipeline in Riverside “while performing directional and horizontal boring during installation of an underground communications cable.”

    The Department of Water Resources (DWR) filed a complaint against Camarillo Drilling in Riverside County Superior Court in April 2022, seeking damages of about $1.2 million to cover pipeline repair expenses and DWR staffing costs, according to the report. 

    Why were they drilling?

    NBC4 reported that HP Communications was behind the drilling of the fiber optic line. A representative with HP Communications told the Beat they could not comment or confirm that they were working at the site. 

    HP Communications is one of the companies awarded a contract for the Broadband for All plan, a $6 billion state and federal investment to close the digital divide. 

    The plan involves building a network of high-capacity fiber lines that carry large amounts of data at high speeds over long distances, according to LAist. About 10,000 miles of fiber optic cable is being installed throughout California, including more than 500 miles in Los Angeles County. The state owns and manages the system.

    Another company that was awarded a contract for the plan is Arcadian Infracom, which in 2023, held a groundbreaking event in Boyle Heights for the California portion of its L.A. to Phoenix fiber route, LAist reported in 2024.

    The project will help serve residents in East L.A. and extend to communities in Barstow and Needles (The route totals 306 miles, but only 40 are within L.A. County limits).

    What remains unknown?

    It’s not clear if the drilling that led to the pipeline rupture is linked to the Broadband for All effort. Arcadian Infracom has not returned a request for comment regarding any potential involvement with the pipeline puncture. 

    The California Department of Technology did not respond to Boyle Heights Beat’s questions in time for publication.

    Pacific Pipeline System (PPS) has also not responded to questions regarding the third-party companies involved. 

    A state investigation into how the pipe was struck remains ongoing. Supervisor Hilda Solis on Thursday said she’d work with the Board of Supervisors to ensure “every responsible party is held accountable and advancing stronger protections for impacted residents, communities, and small businesses.”

    How to file a claim

    Claims of damage believed to be caused by the spill can be submitted to PPS by calling (877) 817-5465. Callers will be prompted to leave their name and contact information in a voicemail for a representative to return the call.

    According to the pipeline operator, some examples of claims that may be considered include: 

    • Property damage
    • Business interruption or loss of access
    • Cleanup or remediation expenses
    • Equipment, vehicle or inventory damage
    • Other documented costs directly related to the incident

    PPS will request contact information and a description of the claimed damages. The timeline for any potential compensation depends on the urgency of the claim, according to the spokesperson.

    How to report air quality concerns

    To report excessive odors, smoke, dust and other air contaminants, East Yard Communities for Environmental Justice advises residents to contact the South Coast Air Quality Management District (AQMD) by calling (800) CUT SMOG or (800) 288-7664. 

    Residents can also access South Coast AQMD’s online complaint system by clicking here. 

    To report health concerns related to odors, residents can also contact the L.A. County Department of Public Health by calling (626) 430-9821 or by emailing DPH-OEJCH@ph.lacounty.gov.

  • Sponsored message
  • Tips on navigating L.A. during the matches
    A large screen inside a stadium reads "26 FIFA Los Angeles."
    The FIFA World Cup 2026 Los Angeles logo is displayed during a media event for the upcoming FIFA World Cup at SoFi Stadium in Inglewood, Tuesday, May 12, 2026.

    Topline:

    LAist prepared the following guide to help folks get to and from the stadium, L.A. city watch parties and tips on using bikes and scooters to get around the region.

    The TL;DR: L.A. Metro is providing direct shuttle service from several locations in L.A. and Orange Counties to SoFi Stadium, where countries from around the world will face off in the eight local FIFA World Cup 2026 matches.

    Watch parties: There will be free watch parties in the city of L.A. Some of the locations are directly accessible via Metro rail.

    Read on ... for specifics and tips on using scooter and bike shares.

    You might have braved the process to get a seat at SoFi Stadium for one of the eight FIFA World Cup 2026 matches in L.A., or maybe you’re gearing up to head to a community watch party.

    Either way, you can maximize the celebration, avoid traffic and save your wallet by taking transit.

    LAist prepared the following guide to help folks get to and from the stadium, L.A. city watch parties and tips on using bikes and scooters to get around the region.

    Getting to the stadium

    L.A. Metro is the countywide transportation agency and is the official public transit provider for the World Cup matches in the city. It’s partnering with more than 10 regional transportation and charter providers to get people to and from the stadium.

    Where is the stadium: All eight of the matches will be at SoFi Stadium, or L.A. Stadium, as it will be called during the World Cup. The address is 1001 S. Stadium Dr., Inglewood, CA 90301.

    How do you get there on Metro: Metro is offering direct shuttle service to the stadium from several locations in L.A. and Orange counties:

    • Hawthorne/Lennox Station
    • Crenshaw Station
    • LAX/Metro Transit Center
    • Near LAX hotels
    • El Camino College
    • Harbor Gateway Transit Center
    • Culver City Transit Center
    • Torrance Transit Center
    • Union Station
    • Downtown Long Beach
    • Downtown Santa Monica
    • North Hollywood Station
    • Pierce College Station
    • ARTIC Anaheim Station 
    • Newport Transportation Center
    A map showing routes for Metro's shuttles to SoFi Stadium during the World Cup. The routes to the stadium are shown in purple.
    You can catch a stadium-bound shuttle at locations throughout L.A. and Orange Counties.
    (
    L.A. Metro
    )

    When: Shuttles to the stadium begin service at least three hours before kick-off depending on which location you’re leaving from, and they’ll run up to 90 minutes after the matches end.

    How often: The shuttles will generally run every 10 minutes. For the Pierce College Station and Newport Transportation Center, the shuttles will run every 30 minutes.

    How to pay: You can tap the fare machines directly with your credit or debit card. Or you can go old-school and use a physical or digital TAP card. There are several ways to get a TAP card, including using your smartphone or picking one up at a Metro station. Here is a page with more details and instructions.

    How much: The same as usual: $1.75 one-way.

    Ok, but how do I get to the shuttle locations?: There are a few different options.

    The shuttle pick-up and drop-off locations are well-serviced by existing transit. You can use the Transit or L.A. Metro mobile apps to help with trip planning.

    And yes, you can drive, too. For most of the shuttle locations, you can reserve parking via SpotHero on Metro’s official World Cup page. You can also use ride-share or taxi services.

    The only pick-up and drop-off location that doesn’t have any kind of vehicle access, including rideshare, is the LAX Metro Transit Center. But that station is accessible by five different Metro bus lines and two rail lines.

    Bonus: If you’re looking for a souvenir to commemorate your time on transit during the World Cup in L.A., make sure to pick up a special TAP card. You can see the designs and where to find each one here.

    How to get to the watch parties

    There are going to be more than 100 free watch parties in the city of L.A. at different park locations. It’s part of an initiative called Kick it in the Park. You can find out more about the watch parties here.

    Some of the locations are accessible on Metro rail.

    • MacArthur Park. You can take the B or D line to the Westlake/MacArthur Park Station.
    • Seoul International Park. The D line stops at the Wilshire/Normandie Station, which is about a half mile away from the park. 
    • Sycamore Grove. The A line stops at the Southwest Museum Station, which is less than half a mile from Sycamore Grove. 
    • Stoner Recreation Center. The E Line stops at the Expo/Bundy Station, which is about half a mile away from Stoner Recreation Center.
    • Cheviot Hills Recreation Center. The E Line Palms Station is just less than a mile away. 

    Check out the city’s interactive website to learn which Metro, L.A. Dash or other regional transit can take you to the Kick it in the Park events.

    Other cities in the county are also hosting watch parties, including Santa Monica, West Hollywood and Culver City.

    Micro-mobility solutions

    Taking a bike share or scooter could be helpful to get to and from transit stations or to go a short distance that isn’t well-served by transit. There are a few different options here:

    • Metro Bike Share. Metro operates a fleet of regular and electric bikes that you can find at docking stations throughout L.A. Use the L.A. Metro app to find docking stations near you that have available bikes or to find stations where you can return the bike when you’re done using it. There are different prices depending on how long you anticipate needing a bike, and you can pay with your TAP card. 
    • Lime. The private scooter and bike-share company recently expanded into the Valley and now offers a total of 15,000 vehicles in the city of L.A. Its vehicles are also accessible in West Hollywood and Long Beach. You can use the Lime or Uber apps to book the vehicles.

      The company is launching a “fan pass” this summer that includes 90 minutes of riding over the course of five days for about $13. You can purchase the fan pass more than once. It’ll be available between June 5th through July 12th. If you don't have access to the internet on your phone but still want to use a Lime vehicle, you can text "Unlock" to 415-463-3473. You will receive a text back with instructions on how to proceed from there.

  • Fire survivors share their photos
    A collage of two photos where the photo on the left shows a child inside an ADU smiling through an unfinished window, and the photo on the right shows empty lots with some construction spread out and the ocean in the distance on an overcast day.
    LAist asked “What does rebuilding mean to you?” and fire survivors have been sharing their stories and photos capturing moments of their lives.

    Topline:

    In February, LAist asked a question: What does rebuilding mean to you? We asked people affected by the L.A. fires to share their stories with us and send a photo that captures that moment of their life.

    Why it matters: Rebuilding can mean something different for everyone.

    How to share your story: LAist is still hearing stories and receiving photos from fire survivors on what rebuilding means to them. We want to hear from homeowners, current or former renters, business owners and more. Share your story here.

    Read on ... to see the photos and hear the stories we’ve collected so far.

    What does rebuilding after the 2025 L.A. fires mean to you? That's the question LAist asked you in February.

    Fire survivors may feel the world has moved on, but we know that you are in the process of pouring foundations, moving to a new temporary home, settling into a new community and perhaps waiting for a chance to return to the areas that burned in Altadena, Pasadena, the Palisades and Malibu.

    So we wanted to hear your stories — and also see photos that capture this moment of your lives. With the fires a year and a half behind us, here are a couple of your stories.

    A new start in Altadena

    For Missi Figueroa, rebuilding has meant being drawn back to Altadena.

    “I felt this weird connection after the fire to this place, like it felt like a grave of my old life, and I just wanted to be here,” Figueroa said. “We looked and thought about moving elsewhere. We just wanted to come back here.”

    Her husband, Frank Figueroa, felt that rebuilding is also a part of healing.

    “I can’t wait to see everyone else here move back and how tight the community will be,” he said. “I think it will be much stronger.”

    In February, the Figueroas were nearing completion of their new home. They shared a photo of one of their children smiling through the window of the then-unfinished ADU.

    They passed the final inspection May 8 and got approval to move back to Altadena, which they have called home for over 10 years. Theirs was the 12th fully rebuilt home in Altadena, and they have since returned to the neighborhood.

    The home was to their specifications, including adding lots of tiles and reusing bricks from their former home in the planter in the front.

    A man and a woman pose for a photo embracing each other standing in front of a two-story home with a brick exterior by the front door.
    Missi and Frank Figueroa embrace in front of their new home.
    (
    David Rodriguez
    /
    LAist
    )

    Jose Hernandez, their contractor with Structural Prime Builder, was determined to get the Figueroa family moved in in six to seven months.

    “I was blessed that they basically trust us to build their home,” said Hernandez, who runs the family-owned business.

    The Figueroas said one thing people should know about rebuilding is the importance of having a contractor you can lean on. They found that in Hernandez.

    “I think it’s really important to find someone you can work with, a contractor who you can trust and talk to,” Missi Figueroa said.

    Four people sitting and standing next to a blue bench pose for a photo with a two-story, green home in the background.
    Frank and Missi Figueroa sit on a blue bench with their contractors, Danna and Jose Hernandez from Structural Prime Builder, outside their newly constructed home in Altadena.
    (
    David Rodriguez
    /
    LAist
    )

    Share your story

    LAist is still hearing stories and receiving photos from fire survivors on what rebuilding means to them. We want to hear from homeowners, current or former renters, business owners and more.

    So far, we’ve heard from survivors living in temporary homes, living in RVs on their lots, creating art and starting to rebuild a new home while wondering what comes next.

    Share your story in the survey below and we may include your pictures and stories in an upcoming feature. We won’t publish anything you share without your permission.

    Framing a new home in the Palisades

    A man wearing a gray sweater poses for a photo in front of a blue construction vehicle and a home under construction.
    Darrin Hurwitz stands in front of his family’s new home under construction in the Pacific Palisades.
    (
    David Rodriguez
    /
    LAist
    )

    Darrin Hurwitz and his family moved to Pacific Palisades from Washington, D.C., in 2022. A big reason they chose their neighborhood was to have a city experience and be close to nature.

    Their home was destroyed in the Palisades Fire.

    The framing of their new home is almost complete. They are the first house on their street to start rebuilding.

    For Hurwitz, rebuilding has felt like “a second job." There was the stress of many decisions — as well as feeling like part of something larger.

    “Everyone is dealing with these issues in a different way,” he said. “But ultimately, we are excited to be part of the rebuilding process and thrilled to come back to the Palisades in about a year.”

    Since he’s been in the neighborhood to see the start of construction, Hurwitz said he has found it invigorating to hike the trails. He shared a photo with LAist of the view from a hilltop, where he can watch his neighborhood being reborn.

    The framing of a home under construction is seen on a job site.
    The Hurwitz home is under construction in the Pacific Palisades.
    (
    Darrin Hurwitz
    )

    Hurwitz and his family are living in Santa Monica while their new home is built. He is optimistic about the progress he and his family have made.

    “It takes time for people to figure out what to do, to figure out their financial situation, to decide whether to return to an area that has been ravaged by a natural disaster,” Hurwitz said. “I am optimistic where things are headed. The Palisades will be back in maybe three years or five years or seven years, but it will come back.”

  • Pop-up serves restaurant-quality Japanese cooking
    Two light skinned hands with dark tattoos turn skewers on a burning charcoal grill, with sizzling meat and smoke rising
    Three Pigs is known for its yakitori.

    Topline:

    Unbound by the confines of a brick-and-mortar restaurant, Three Pigs specializes not just in yakitori, but a chef-driven, seasonal take on Japanese cooking.

    Why track down Three Pigs: Proof that a pop-up can be something more than just a roving restaurant—it can be a conduit for creativity and community.

    What to eat: Charred chicken thigh skewers, tender braised pork belly bowls, and an ever-changing list of market-driven specials.

    The soft hiss of fat dripping onto white-hot binchotan. The alchemical smell of both sweet tare sauce and charred meat. If you closed your eyes, you could easily imagine yourself parked at the counter of any number of South Bay yakitori joints.

    But this is Three Pigs, a Long Beach-based pop-up and catering operation, that roves around the region, one week perhaps at a street fair, another in the parking lot of a donut shop.

    It’s the work of partners Allison and Vasili Tavernakis. In just under two years, they’ve built a community of dedicated diners from Orange County to Los Angeles, drawn to their personal market-inspired take on traditional Japanese cuisine.

    A light skinned man wearing a baseball hat, dark glasses and a chef's apron, has his arm around a smiling Asian woman also wearing a baseball cap and a chefs apron. They are standing inside a pop up tent surrounded by kitchen equipment.
    Three Pigs owners, Vasili (left) and Allison Tavernakis.
    (
    Courtesy Three Pigs
    )

    Yakitori is what first launched Three Pigs, so. So there are always skewers on the menu, like a juicy beef kushiyaki skewer dabbed with wasabi.

    But there’s also always something special and even ephemeral to be had. Maybe it will be hearty kakuni don, a bowl of rice topped with meltingly tender soy-braised pork belly, a jammy soft boiled egg, and daikon and bok choy sprouts. Or perhaps you’ll find a hyper-seasonal dish like nowhere else: yuzu-scented whipped tofu, charred broccolini, sake-cherry agrodolce, and sprouted watercress.

    Three Pigs is restaurant-quality cooking unbound from the financial and creative trappings of a brick-and-mortar space.

    “The challenge is what keeps me excited,” Vasili said. “I want our pop-ups to feel like if you changed our bamboo plates, you’d feel like you were at a restaurant.”

    A white plate holds a beautifully laid out dish, with crispy seaweed and lobster tail on a cream colored sauce, surrounded by a yellow swirl.
    A restaurant-quality dish at Three Pigs.
    (
    Courtesy Three Pigs
    )

    Organic growth

    Allison and Vasili are both hospitality veterans. The pair met while working at a restaurant in Torrance: Allison as a manager and social media director in the front of the house, Vasili as a chef in the back of the house. After their shifts, there were few options for late-night bites. Inevitably, Vasili said, they’d find themselves at Japanese izakayas, where they and their coworkers could build camaraderie over skewers and small plates.

    It was during those post-work meals that Vasili became enamored with yakitori. But it wasn’t until the pandemic lockdowns that Vasili ever attempted to cook it himself. It was a slow process, learning the techniques and honing the recipes that called back to those late-night meals that he sorely missed. For Allison, who is Japanese-American, the dishes spoke to her own flavor memories and family traditions.

    Eventually, they became confident enough to invite friends over for dinners to try out new dishes.

    Still, the idea of a pop-up seemed far off. It wasn’t until a friend who owns a store in downtown Long Beach offered a pop-up opportunity that Three Pigs started serving the public. After that first smashing success, which saw their entire menu sell out, the operation has grown organically ever since, building on community connections and word of mouth to find new avenues to share their food.

    Evolution and ambition

    If you pay enough visits to Three Pigs’ pop-ups, you can watch the pair continually push boundaries.

    “On a recent visit to Japan,” Vasili recounted, “we saw a vendor with a gorgeously long irori-style grill with fish standing on skewers. In Japan, irori is a multifunctional space in the home for both heating and cooking. I hadn’t seen a vendor do that before, so I thought I could try building one.”

    So he did. Then he sourced ayu, small fish prized in Japan for their sweet, delicate flavor. The fish were skewered whole and arranged vertically around lengths of charcoal stacked in the center of the grill. The result was not just an approximation of that inspiration from Japan, but an homage to the craft and care of Japanese cooking. Even attempting such a cooking method is something no other pop-up, let alone a brick-and-mortar restaurant, is likely doing in Southern California.

    Casual pop-ups are only part of the Three Pigs experience. Allison and Vasili also host a dinner series. And it’s at those dinners where Three Pigs’ creativity is truly at play.

    At a Santa Monica nursery a few months ago, Three Pigs paired an ambitious tasting menu dinner with an ikebana class hosted by Tiger Blossom Studio. In between flower arranging lessons, Allison and Vasili served a farmers market-driven menu that saw dishes like a hamachi crudo in a pool of strawberry ponzu, spiny lobster in a caviar and white miso beurre monté, and a hojicha panna cotta with craggy, dehydrated black sesame cake.

    “We try and create an experience, not just food on a plate,” Allison said. “We see this as an entire restaurant experience that happens to be outside in the community. We get to interact with customers in a more intimate way, ask questions, and have a conversation.”

    But that conversation isn’t just one with customers old and new. It’s a dialogue between memory and place, Southern California and its seasons, and tradition and evolution.

    No matter where you find Three Pigs, you can always guarantee there will be something new on the menu.

    Location and hours: Visit Three Pigs on Instagram at @threepigslbc for upcoming pop-ups and events.