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Food

West Meets East: Brunch at Rockwell, VT

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It's just a shade before noon on a Sunday, you're in Los Feliz, and you're in the mood for brunch. A couple of weeks ago we addressed this dilemma by heading up to the outdoorsy-meets-clubby environs of Rockwell, VT for a cocktail-soaked brunch that was just what we needed.

Whether you're in search of hair of the dog or just a hangover cure, Rockwell, VT has a surprisingly satisfying brunch menu of savory dishes, a few sweet bites, and a fun brunch cocktail menu that includes multiple varieties on the breakfast cocktail of champions, the Bloody Mary. If your eyes are open enough when you stumble into the back entrance you may have caught a sidewalk placard declaring they offer bottomless Mimosas, too, for a respectable $14--you know you can drink your money's worth, c'mon! Cheers! The servers are friendly, and attentive--even when they've made their umpteenth visit with a pitcher of Mimosa to refill your rapidly empty glass.

A menu of eggy dishes offers a tempting variety, of which our table selected three from the "Wood Fire Brick Oven" section, including a spicy, smoky baked huevos rancheros (two eggs, tomatillo salsa, queso fresco, cheddar cheese, pico de gallo on corn tortillas; $11); a lighter baked egg whites & tofu (with black beans, tomato, 
sweet piquillo peppers, avocado; $9); and a sumptuous and hearty braised shortribs & poached eggs (Potato cake, red wine jus and fine herbs; $13).

Not wanting to miss out on the sweeter fare, we shared the divinely light and tart lemon ricotta pancakes (served with sweet honey butter, blueberry syrup & powdered sugar; $10) and the less interesting and mildly off-tasting organic belgian waffles (with macerated berries and mascarpone cream; $10).

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Having been to Rockwell VT in the evening hours, it was nice to be there while daylight asserted itself through the canopied covering of the patio space, though this is not a place where you can quietly commune with nature, despite the outdoor setting. Since Rockwell VT is more of a lounge-club, no matter the daytime hour, the sound system is rocking the steady beat of dance remixes, and by the time you realize your Mimosa might be bottomless but your ability to consume them is not, the place is packed with people--an undeniably gay-centric crowd giving Los Feliz a little WeHo-ian zing. But brunch-time is all about relaxing, and it's easy to do this here--especially if you're tucked into an upstairs booth and tucking into a full glass and a tasty dish.