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Food

Not All the Stars Shine So Brightly

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Among the chaotic jubilance that is Melrose, All’Angelo unassuming. I usually tell people it’s near Azami Sushi Café (also a great place to eat) but it’s still easy to miss. When you get inside, it’s not flashy like Geisha House or Table 8 or a lot of super hip places. No, at All’ Angelo, they save the flash for the food.

One of their stars is hard to see – in a small stretch of space between the bar and the dining room, there’s a large black object, which as it turns out, is an antique meat slicer. When you ask for the meat plate, they slice up four or five different meats including two kinds of prosciutto, speck and salami. It’s a divine platter, outfitted with grilled bread, marinated artichoke hearts and sun dried tomatoes. Last time we were there, we had it with a sparkling red wine, recommended by the waiter, mild and almost sweet.

We played it safe with appetizers, just sharing caprese salad, with very thin slices of heirloom tomatoes. It was good, but no plate of charcuterie.

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Dinner was a real showstopper. There are at least two pastas on the menu made with braised meat and both are fantastic - delicate and filled with rich flavor. They serve fish that is flakey and delectable and the meats, beautifully cooked. The service is friendly and great with recommendations, though the space does get loud when it's crowded.

All'Angelo isn't cheap, but it earns its money. It's a place for people who love food more than they love a hot scene.

All' Angelo 7166 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90046