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Food

Hungry Cat -- Old Hat?

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A cluttered stretch of Sunset Boulevard, crowded with stores and neon, billboards and cars, the sidewalks studded with gum, marked with the spray-painted symbols of different bands who’ve played Amoeba, seems a place ill suited to the food of a blue New England day, a little warm with a nice breeze, the air has that sweet salt tang to it. But to find the best seafood in town, Los Angelenos know better than to head for the coast, where Neptune’s Net and Gladstone’s do a tolerable job serving tourists. You head east – to the place where it all started. No, not Plymouth, MA. Hollywood.

Hungry Cat, you say, isn’t that a little old hat? Blah, blah, David Lenz and Susan Goins, blah, AOC and Luques, blah, blah, blah. But as the weather warms up, a girl’s fancy turns to seafood, especially when that seafood is bursting fresh and beautifully presented. Hungry Cat is a little slip of a place, the uber hip and stylish LA version of a fish shack. A few tables, a couple of bar seats and a small patio are nestled in the center of the fortress-like Sunset + Vine Complex, swathed in labyrinthine condos, Borders, Bed Bath and Beyond and the long defunct Schwabs.