Eat This: Korean BBQ With the Edge of a Street Taco

Late last night in Westwood, among the dense maze of housing east of UCLA's campus, was a line, at least an hour's wait for some, of some 500 people waiting to grab some Korean inspired tacos and burritos and maybe the day's special--Kimchi Fried Rice Cake with Egg-Shiso. Meet Kogi BBQ. It's Korean food with the edge of a street taco on a catering truck mixed with the savvyness of Web 2.0 (follow them on Twitter to know their location).

Inside the truck is Chef Roy Choi, who speaks of food like its poetry. After all, Choi graduated at the top of his class at the Culinary Institute of America and has cooked at Le Bernardin in New York, in Iron Chef Michiba’s kitchen, at the Beverly Hilton and Rock Sugar Pan Asian Kitchen. But when he heard about an idea of Korean food on a taco truck, he said "sign me up!"

This is guerrilla gourmet at its best. "We're Korean, but we're American and we grew up in LA. It's not a stigma food, it's a representation of who we are," explained Choi on the street last night. "Everything you get in that taco is what we live in LA. It's the 720 bus on Wilshire, it's the 3rd street Juanita's Tacos, the Korean supermarket and all those things that we live everyday in one bite. That was our goal. To take everything about LA and put it into one bite... It's Mexican, it's Korean, it's organic, it's California, it's farmer's market, it's drunk people after midnight."

It was just over a month ago that Kogi BBQ founder Mark Manguera came up with the concept. It was one of those post-clubbing in Hollywood inebriated ideas born out of "I'm drunk and I'm hungry, why can't I get some Korean food right this minute?" When you get those drunken thoughts, how often do you act on them? Not often at all, but Manguera did it in less than 30 days, just beginning last week, and is now the buzz of the town, thanks to online social networking and some damn good food.

"With Kogi, we really wanted to focus on grassroots," said Mike Prasad, who is doing the branding and new media marketing for them. "Connecting and interacting with food lovers in real-time. Since the truck is out and about, it gives us a unique setting to engage people via Twitter, qik, and other social media tools. Like Roy says, it's about the culture AND the food."

UCLA student and LAist writer-on-hiatus Henry David came out to see why there were hundreds of people outside his apartment window last night. Of course, he had to sample. "They did a pretty good job of meeting the demand, churning out the food as quickly as possible while socializing with us at the same time," he said. "I knew I had to try two of the KBBQ staples, short ribs and spicy pork. I was expecting Korean BBQ coming from a mobile kitchen to be a little tame, so I was surprised by the boldness of the flavor when I bit into the first taco. It's not just that the spicy pork was well-seasoned (I'm not a fan of Korean BBQ that lacks marinade), but also the lettuce/onion/cilantro fixings were dressed with a flavorful sauce; possibly their own spin of miso? The combination of the meat and vegetables is quite rich and delicious, and the generous usage of cilantro definitely gives the dish a street taco taste. What I got from it was a very good marriage of Korean and Mexican flavors -- and what could be more Angeleno than that?"

The Kogi BBQ team is taking the energy they've received from their online and street following and is going full force. This week, they'll be at the Hollywood Farmer's Market, hoping to be a permanent fixture there, a bar in Venice wants them to feed their customers on weekends and within the next couple weeks, they'll add two more trucks to the fleet for the holiday season. Ultimately, one of their goals is to expand regionally.

Their menu consists of Korean Shortrib, BBQ Chicken, Tofu and Spicy Pork tacos ($2 each or 3 for $5). Add to that burritos ($5) and daily specials like Pork Belly Kimchi Fried Rice Cake w/ Egg-Shiso salad or short rib sliders. If those become popular, there's a good chance they'll become a regular menu item at the will of the people on the street.

There should be a lesson in all of this. If you have an idea that believe in, go for it. The Kogi BBQ team has proved that with smart planning and a solid business plan. Manguera admits that if it doesn't work, it doesn't work. But you don't know until you execute, experiment and have some plain old fun doing what you love.

To find Kogi BBQ on the streets, follow them on Twitter or check the schedule (scroll down)


Comments (14) [rss]

Kogi is simply some of the best food I've had. I dream about Kogi and wake up in a pool of drool. Make sure you find this truck. www.kogibbq.com

THIS is awesome. Just added @kogibbq on twitter. starving.

i have been following them on twitter but waiting for them to come out to the Valley, there's definitely an absence of good authentic Korean food out there.

seriously this is where its at -- cheap good food. why cant most places get it right in the westside?

though ive never had kogi, i salute them.

Maybe Kogi's success will encourage other young Korean entrepreneurs to widen their demographics.
Korean food is so L.A.

Damn, I'm considering stalking the truck this weekend!

I was there last night, food was wack... shit came out cold and extra lardy. you can't eat a cold taco no matter what. plus they were not prepared for the long line. they didn't have easily accessible drinks, side dishes or condiments. any real mexican truck would have had all these things.

I don't need to goto CIA or work with Eric Ripert to learn how to make a proper taco... and that's the truth.

I was there last night, food was wack... shit came out cold and extra lardy. you can't eat a cold taco no matter what. plus they were not prepared for the long line. they didn't have easily accessible drinks, side dishes or condiments. any real mexican truck would have had all these things.

I don't need to goto CIA or work with Eric Ripert to learn how to make a proper taco... and that's the truth.

@chwangton

I all fairness, I don't think I've ever seen a taco truck try to meet the demands of such a massive crowd, and considering the fact that they manned up, got more supplies and managed to feed everyone was quite spectacular to me.

They obviously are gauging the following and still adapting to the exponentially growing demand.

Perhaps the taco itself didn't appeal to your taste but it's odd to me that you are staunchly turned off by it. I thought the execution and flavors were truly superb and I got the same vibe from everyone else in my building who tried it.

I don't want to say that your judgment is quite bitter on the food but I am puzzled as to why it was not to your taste specifically.

i will disagree, when you only have 2 cooks there, and the other workers are just "managing" the line, that's retarded. its a taco, and any one can assemble one and they should have been back there assembling. and being that busy, food should not have come out cold, and coming out cold coagulates the lard they were using thereby making the meat taste pasty and fatty. part of having the truck there was is to have hot food coming out as soon as its done. i have worked the hot line at 3 star restaurants, if that sh*t is sitting out too long and gets cold, you don't serve it, you re-fire.

Henry D.

I was there also last night and had a similar experience to chwangton. When you only have 8 things on the menu and half of them overlap with the same contents, it shouldn't be hard to churn out warm food. That's just a requirement.

Also, i see that you are a UCLA student. Believe me when i say college students shouldn't be food critics. I bet you eat at Jose Bernsteins and think they make the best mexican food. Please refer to my Yelp posting about hypebeasters. You would fall under this category.

Click Here for My Yelp Posting

Looks amazing--can the truck make it out to DC?

I actually did try them last weekend. I thought they'd be in Hollywood on Saturday, but they were in Westwood and Venice. So my boyfriend and I hopped in the car, drove out to UCLA, bought 6 tacos and a bottle of water, and ate them right there in the car. The guys were so nice. When I went to throw away the plates they asked me if it was worth the trek. It was! I had tofu tacos, but my boyfriend's favorite was the short rib. I'll definitely hit them up again, when they're closer to my house.

I just had some Kogi for the first time this Friday in Venice... It was delicious...

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